40D and digiscoping with LiveView

[awallace]

I am very interterested to see if anyone has tried this out at all. I use a 20D on a Kowa scope, and it seems to work quite well..., but one reason for me to upgrade (other than I just like shiny new things) is LiveView.

If so, what are your experiences? I am told that:
1) LiveView means that the mirror is up already, and so the shot is taken with just a fire of the shutter (means steadier/quicker shots)
2) LiveView can simulate the exposure
3) LiveView allows you to zoom in to check focusing - digiscopers focus manually ;-)

Are any of these things true? If so, how well do they work?
Thanks in advance...

[Bob Thompson]

The only possible problem I could think of, is how bright is the LCD in daylight - maybe you can attach a hood around the screen

[postcardcv]

If so, what are your experiences? I am told that:
1) LiveView means that the mirror is up already, and so the shot is taken with just a fire of the shutter (means steadier/quicker shots)
2) LiveView can simulate the exposure
3) LiveView allows you to zoom in to check focusing - digiscopers focus manually ;-)

Are any of these things true? If so, how well do they work?
Thanks in advance...

Well one and three are definitely true, but I've not given any thought to number two (I'll have a look later).

I was using liveview the other day when manual focusing with a 2x tc on my lens, using the zoom made it much easier to get the focus right, I got much better shots than I did when using the viewfinder.

[Romy Ocon]

I use the 40D's Live View in manually focusing the Sigmonster + 1.4x TC (1120 mm) or 2x TC (1600 mm). Shooting these combos requires a discipline similar to digiscoping.

1. Yes, the mirror is up during LV shooting, so mirror/shutter slap is very low to nil.

2. Yes, LV can simulate the exposure.

3. Yes, 5x or 10x LV zoom allows extremely accurate focus placement.

Here's a Brown Shrike with the 40D + Sigmonster + 1.4x, 1120 mm, 1/60 sec, f/13, ISO 1250, MF via LV, manual exposure, resized full frame:
http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/86360650/original


And a moonshot with a 2x TC on the Sigmonster, MF via Live View, shooting detail embedded in the photo:
http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/85112593/original


Romy


I am very interterested to see if anyone has tried this out at all. I use a 20D on a Kowa scope, and it seems to work quite well..., but one reason for me to upgrade (other than I just like shiny new things) is LiveView.

If so, what are your experiences? I am told that:
1) LiveView means that the mirror is up already, and so the shot is taken with just a fire of the shutter (means steadier/quicker shots)
2) LiveView can simulate the exposure
3) LiveView allows you to zoom in to check focusing - digiscopers focus manually ;-)

Are any of these things true? If so, how well do they work?
Thanks in advance...

[awallace]

Bob, postcardcv, Romy - thanks guys. Looks like I am off to the shops ;-)

[GYRob]

Romy they are fantastic shots .
Rob.

[awallace]

Well I got my 40D this weekend, as an early Christmas present ;-) All I can say is fantastic!! Focussing is so much easier. Shots worth keeping now at the significant majority, rather than the significant minority! Also, the noise levels at the higher ISOs are much lower. I have posted a picture of a pied wagtail in my gallery if anyone is interested in the results.

There is still a small problem I have with chromatic aberration (violet fringe it seems). I can correct it in Photoshop, but I was reading somewhere that a violet filter might improve this - has anyone tried this before?

[GYRob]

i think you should use LV but not for a long time im sure i read that it builds up to much heat if use for a long time -might be worth checking i carn't find were i read it.
Rob.

[awallace]

Yes - I read in the manual that heat can be a problem with extended LV use. I tend to focus roughly with the viewfinder, and then fine focus with LV. Haven't noticed the camera getting hot though - perhaps it will be more of a problem in the summer! There is a temperature warning light that will appear (according to the manual), but haven't seen it yet.

[Jaff]

The only possible problem I could think of, is how bright is the LCD in daylight - maybe you can attach a hood around the screen

I do believe the 40D lacks an anti-reflective coating on the LCD screen which could introduce some minor problems.

[postcardcv]

Yes - I read in the manual that heat can be a problem with extended LV use. I tend to focus roughly with the viewfinder, and then fine focus with LV. Haven't noticed the camera getting hot though - perhaps it will be more of a problem in the summer! There is a temperature warning light that will appear (according to the manual), but haven't seen it yet.

As I understand it the issue is the LCD gets warm with extended use, this then warms the senser which can cause an increase in noise.

Tested liveview for manual focusing the other day, using stacked 1.4x and 2x tcs on a 500mm lens, the zoom feature one liveview made focusing much easier. I even got shots that I was quite happy with.

[gmax]

As I understand it the issue is the LCD gets warm with extended use, this then warms the senser which can cause an increase in noise.

Tested liveview for manual focusing the other day, using stacked 1.4x and 2x tcs on a 500mm lens, the zoom feature one liveview made focusing much easier. I even got shots that I was quite happy with.

Superb performance Pete, bravo!!!

[David Smith]

And a moonshot with a 2x TC on the Sigmonster, MF via Live View, shooting detail embedded in the photo:
http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/85112593/original
Romy[/QUOTE]

I would like to know how you chose the aperture/speed for this wonderful shot.
When I shoot the moon digiscope it comes out 'ok' (nothing like yours) but when I have tried with the 20D & 100-400 on auto it just comes out as a big shiny circle with no definition.
Please advise
Thanks

[Romy Ocon]

And a moonshot with a 2x TC on the Sigmonster, MF via Live View, shooting detail embedded in the photo:
http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/85112593/original
Romy

I would like to know how you chose the aperture/speed for this wonderful shot.
When I shoot the moon digiscope it comes out 'ok' (nothing like yours) but when I have tried with the 20D & 100-400 on auto it just comes out as a big shiny circle with no definition.
Please advise
Thanks[/QUOTE]


I recommend shooting in M mode, Av = sharpness sweet spot of the lens, ISO 200-400, then choose the shutter speed that allows your histogram to just about get near the right wall.

Romy