Ticks, dips and near death - Scottish Highlands in winter

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

This year we decided to spend Christmas in Findhorn (http://www.multimap.com/maps/?&hloc=GB|LS122TF#t=l&map=57.6596,-3.6083|11|4&loc=GB:57.6596:-3.6083:14|findhorn|Findhorn,%20Forres,%20Morayshir e,%20Scotland,%20IV36%203) in the Scottish Highlands having spent the last three winters in Norfolk.

Day 1 Speyside

Dawn on day one there could be no other place to start but in the ancient Caledonian forests on Speyside particularly focussing at Abernethy between Loch Garten and Forest Lodge area. Additionally most of the information I had garnered before the trip suggested this could be a good time to try and connect with the Horse of the Forest - Capercaillie.

It was immediately noticeable how quiet the world is in the forest in winter - no cars, no people, no birds. This wasn't a complete surprise as birds often flock up in Winter, and after a mile or so we found a roving titflock. In the flock were at least sixty coal tits as well as a treecreeper and some great tits. Goldcrests also hovered in the canopy. Soon enough a Crested tit announced its presence with a diagnostic trilling call. Always high in the pine tops they were difficult to pick to in the dismal December light.

With some brighter weather on the cards we headed towards Cairngorm to try and connect with Ptarmigan and other peak lovers that may be present. Disappointingly the railway was closed and we were advised not to walk on the paths due to the high winds. Having torn the ligaments in my knee on the coast to coast earlier in the year I knew this advice was to be heeded.

The rest of the day was spent in the forests around Grantown searching for specialist forest birds, and we started to jam in on major crossbill flocks. I had heard beforehand that distinguishing the species in the field is nigh on impossible and now I was in the thick of it I cold see why. The first flock of 30 or so all seemed to be common to me although there were two/three different types of call. Maybe it was just time to try and tune in to these pine specialists. As the afternoon went on I convinced myself that I had seen all three types of crossbill, then common and Scottish, then back to Scottish and parrot and then back to just common. These really are tricky fella's indeed. As the day closed I managed to get a picture of what I considered to be a good candidate for 'not a common', and I would be interested in any opinions...

With the light fading we headed back to Findhorn for a pint (or more) and Shepherds Pie

(total time in Capercaillie habitat 5 hours = total Capercaillie 0)

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Day two - Speyside

First light on day two and we start in the forests on the East side of Grantown - more cresties, and more crossbills. We also see our first mammals of the trip in the form as two red squirrels are getting stuck into the feeders at Loch Garten. As the light improves I head to Caringorm to try for ptarmigan only to find the winds are now in excess of 60mph and all walkers are advised not to go above the car park. Frustratingly the weather is too nasty to go up the mountain, but not inclement enough to bring the birds down. I decide to go back and search the forests some more and I am rewarded with some lovely views of Crested tits and yet more crossbills!

Still pleased with the birding I head home for a black pudding and haggis stack with loadsa chips.

(total time in Capercaillie habitat 11 hours = total Capercaillie 0)

[Capercaillie71]

Nice crestie photos! I think i can see where you are going with your capercaillie running total.

Your crossbill looks interesting. The angle of the photo may be distorting the bill shape, but the lower mandible does look big and the overall shape of the bill square rather than rectangular. On the other hand the lower mandible also appears to protrude, although this may just be the angle of the photo. On location alone, parrot has to be a strong possibility.

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Day 3 - Findhorn Bay

I now have the phone number for Cairngorm and an early morning call reveals that the winds are now in the 70's! I am 30 miles away and the sea is dead calm, so I decided to work the immediate area. On the way to the dune system I see a big moggy chasing rabbits on the edge of the forest, and continue. 30 seconds later I remember exactly where I am and this is no ordinary moggy, but a monster of a cat and I scope it for nearly a minute until it catches a rabbit and retreats into the forest. Could this have been the fabled Scottish Wild Cat? Certainly was a big beast and had the right characteristics...

I continue to the coast and find more seaduck than I had ever imagined. I got quite excited about 15 or so Long tailed duck, and then spotted about 200 more. Same with red brested mergs although there were no more than 50 in the area. Then there were eiders and scoters. A long black line of (2000?)common scoters interspersed with about 200 velvet scoters. There are also 500 eider and a few Red Throated Divers. Scoping towards Burghead I pick out more scoter and a fat necked Great Northern Diver. Fantastic stuff.

With the rising tide I am treated to a new spectacle. Two male and one female Red Breasted Mergansers spells trouble and I was a delighted witness to an act of courtship. Each sawbill would 'squeek' and posture before chasing its counterpart and splashing as much as possible. If this was unsuccessful then they would take turn trying to force each other under the water.

This area is fantastic and just when I think I can see no more I latch onto an otter on the far side of the bay swimming in between a small party of velvet scoter and then a male long tailed duck - now that is bonkers!

The wind starts to bite and I head home for fish, chips and guiness looking forward to the rest of the week

[bitterntwisted]

Looking forward to further instalments. And love the Crestie photos, too.

Graham

(total time in Capercaillie habitat 35 hours = total Capercaillie 0)

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Day 4 - Culbin Forest

Its Christmas Day! Surely the Cappers know that I need a birding present. We head to Culbin forest (a bit of a long shot for Capper), but just down the road so well worth a try. The area is fantastic habitat and at 12 miles long is quite daunting we stick to the eastern end so we can walk to the western side of Findhorn bay. We try and keep quiet as we walk throught the forest and we are rewarded as we startle a small group of Roe Deer feeding on the forest edge.

As we reach the edge a small flock of passerines rise from the shore line and these turn out to be a group of twite. they let me get within 20 feet and I manage to get a cople of snaps in the grim light. Further away grey seals look curiously at these two strangers wandering into their world.

As we head back through the forest we are suddenly startled as a bird thrashes away throught he forest. It's big and it's dark and ... it's gone. The one that got away?

We head back to the cottage for Venison and the trimmings and some nice red wine

(total time in Capercaillie habitat 15.5 hours = total Capercaillie 0.1)

[socksitis]

Just like a soap which ends on a desperate measure on a Friday night on the TV! I wait with baited breathe......

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Day 5 - Speyside and Findhorn

A quick call and the mountain is open! I stop breifly on the way at a 'guaranteed' Capper spot (its actually my thrid stop here), but after an hour and some more dodgy crossbills I give in and head towards the hills.

Alas by the time I reach the Cairn the wind has picked up and all bets are off. I head towards Tulloch to see if my luck will change. Here I score an unexpected lifer as I flush a cock black grouse. Superb stuff. Not just that in my excitment to see where it lands I flush a blue Mountain Hare from the undergrowth and it looks at me before disappearing. This seems to be the general theme; actionless for hours and then everything bursts into life!

I decide to go back to Findhorn to see what is about and get treated to some good views of a Hooded Crow, and a majorly hacked off Red Breasted Merganser - check out the Herring gull with a crop full of the mergansers dinner!

Fish and Chips at the highly recommmended Kimberly Inn (again) and another hatful of Guiness!

(total time in Capercaillie habitat 18.5 hours = total Capercaillie 0.1)

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Day 6 - Channory Point, Black Isle, Longman Point

We decide to spend the morning near Inverness so we can do some shopping in the sales in the afternnon. The weather was bad so we saw very little, certainly not the hoped for Bearded Seal or any white winged gulls. 50 goldeneye, a red kite and this weird herring gull were the best of the day... I did pick up a sweet shirt in the sales though (by now it was snowing heavily).

Poached Salmon and new pots with a crisp white wine rounded off the day nicely.

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

I cannot tell you just how cold I was getting this panarama (its 6 shots combined in CS3). The Ptarmigans are up there somewhere...

[socksitis]

Do like the associated food diary......

[martinf]

great photos of Cresties. What were you using to get those?

[joannec]

Really nice reporting Marcus. I like your pictures, particularly the landscapes. The first almost black and white ones remind me of why I first got attracted by photography, very atmospheric, and I love the cresties too!:t:

[Andrew]

Enjoying reading this thread and hoping a Caper makes it on your list before the end.

Not seen one myself.

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Day 7 - Speyside

An hour at the guaranteed spot for cappers (no cappers), and we arrive at the mountain at 10:30. The winds are picking up - gusting to 95mph!! - so even me in my own birding madness cannot justify it. so why not look for some more cappers? Just as we leave the mountain (that's what we call it now) a small flock of snow bunting bring a smile to the face.

We head via forest lodge to the forests near Grantown for more fruitless searching, and I am just about ready to give in on these formidable foes! A small flock of crossers bounds in and having seen so many (its a hard life) I am pretty sure these are more non common types. I really should have taken sonograms as I think with just the naked ear I have heard over 5/6 types of call, and the only definite I have picked up is what I beleive to be the Parrot flight call (gonna have a listen via some other threads). This is alongside all the other calls that you would expect. Any thoughts?

Alas there is to be no Capper, but everything is put bleakly into persective as we leave the next morning.

Bangers and mash, no booze tonight fearing I may be getting gout.

(total time in Capercaillie habitat 21.5 hours = total Capercaillie 0.1)

[Geoff Pain]

Awaiting the next instalment,great crestie pics.

[will@bill]

Enjoying reading this thread and hoping a Caper makes it on your list before the end.

Not seen one myself.

i am sure he will post the caper pics on day 8s report;)
just seen last report no day 8 what a shame


We had 2 days up there in oct 2006 weather was spot on no wind no clouds perfect for the cairngorm climb but my son (that’s ½ of my team)had sprained he ankle the week before doing a bit owling so could not do it .he had a good go but only seen red grouse peregrine and snow bunting,we did see crested tit and crossbills(no way we can tell them apart) in the forest.we meant to go back in 2007 but never got .must put it on this years list.
no caper for us

[Hotspur]

I also note that Mr 2faces hasnt updated his latest lifer list and as black grouse was a lifer you would expect...

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Despite the ice alert flashing on the dash
Despite the 'ICE' sign posts
Despite all the advice

I decide I know better and drive way to fast around a highland bend. The road turns and the car doesn't. At the 55mph we leave the road and slide towards moorland, ditcha nd boulders.

Without knowing really how or why the car doesn't flip and roll, but I manage to literally bounce it back onto the road off some bricks and a post to a standstill. I have no idea how we manage to walk away from the car, or even how it has ended up on the road. Strangely I notice a red grouse calling even though I can barely stand I am shaking so much.

I compose myself and see the car has taken a pasting with one tyre blown and the wheel itself crushed. The exhaust hanging off and md clods on the undercarriage.

We are 90 miles from the nearest Peugeot dealer, but we are alive and completely unscathed.

We replace the wheel and at 45mph for what felt like forever and many stops we reach the most helpful man on earth. We are patched up and head onto Northumberland for another week of birding (report to follow shortly).

We get to Berwick 14 hours after leaving, alive and tuck into cheese on toast

[Hotspur]

~Im glad your okay Marcus, your health is far more important than a lifer.

[griffin]

I would be interested in any opinions...



Shape, size and structure of head alone, and those hamster jowels and plumage colour are all Parrot Crossbill characteristics. If you tick Parrot, I'm not going to call you a bandit !

Please anyone looking for Crossbills in Abernethy check for colour rings. I had a Glenmore bird ringed in 2002 turn up at my patch in Deeside in July 2007 and the reverse has also happened with Deeside birds transversing the Cairngorms into Speyside. Also, some of my colour-ringed Parrots are 'missing'. If you find one I can then tell you what species it is !

Lindsay

[Andrew]

Bet you loved it all for the thrill, eh? ;)

You live to go back another day so not too bad isn't it?

[griffin]

I really should have taken sonograms as I think with just the naked ear I have heard over 5/6 types of call, and the only definite I have picked up is what I beleive to be the Parrot flight call (gonna have a listen via some other threads). This is alongside all the other calls that you would expect. Any thoughts?


Those two are harder Marcus, given the angle of the bill. Plumage is that of a pine crossbill though, if I really had to say it is more likey a Scottish but not 100% sure, more like 85% which is not good enough IMO. Could even be a Parrot at that angle, though doubtful. I have seen Commons in the hand that look similar to Scottish Crossbills in bill structure, though plumage (and calls !) usually betray them.

Recording the calls would have been useful.


Lindsay

[Xenospiza]

Fantastic Crested Tit pictures. One of the hardest common birds to photograph in the Netherlands...

[Lawts]

Great read Marcus. Glad to hear you are okay!

[Stewart J.]

Splendid read Marcus, Crestie shots are superb. Look forward to the Northumberland report.

Stewart

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Thanks for all the comments. I should summarise by saying it was a great trip despite the near death experience. Some other things I noticed;

- You can see the stars in Scotland. At one point we were going uphill at night and with only the cats eyes for guidance it felt like we were launching to space.

- I saw no other birders - not one - in continous briding in key habitats. Call me selfish but it was heaven! Don't reckon it be the same in June.

- The food was great, the people were great and the booze was great. Pint of Guiness £2.16 mmmmm.

- Learn your crossbills in the field! BUT take something to record the calls even if it is just to try and work out the number of variations!

- Get fish and chips at the Kimberley Inn in Findhorn

- I didn't seen any eagles despite trying, although we were there on the back of a week of high pressure so maybe they had had it easy.

- Call ahead for Cairngorm. You get a recorded message which gives a detailed weather forecast for the immediate area - very handy.

And how many crossbills do I tick? I will listen but think I saw all three. If all three exist of course...

(BTW pics taken either with 30D 100-400 IS handheld or 400D 28-110IS for landscapes)

[skink1978]

Cracking report Marcus. Glad your still with us. Bad luck with the Caper but at least you got an Otter (among Velvets!)

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Cracking report Marcus. Glad your still with us. Bad luck with the Caper but at least you got an Otter (among Velvets!)

That is the only bad thing about being on your own - I really wanted to high five someone who knew just how amazing this was!

[Helenelizabeth2]

I'm glad you're ok, Marcus. Sounds like a fantastic week and made me want to go back very much.

[socksitis]

Phew! - Gripping right to the end. Glad you are allright.

[Farnboro John]

Your cat sighting was of course really really interesting. A grid reference would be very much appreciated - probably, not only by me!

A "monster moggy...chasing rabbits" I should stick it on your list mate. Well done.

John

[edenwatcher]

Top stuff. Took a friend to Speyside in the depths of winter a few years ago - we didn't see caper either!

Rob

[Capercaillie71]

Your cat sighting was of course really really interesting. A grid reference would be very much appreciated - probably, not only by me!


Probably worth submitting details of the cat sighting to the national wildcat survey:

http://www.naiadecology.co.uk/wildcatsurv.html

They are interested in anything that looks even vaguely like a wildcat.

[Sandra (Taylor)]

Loved reading your report, Marcus. So glad that you were OK after the accident - could have been so much worse.

Your photos are brilliant - love the crested tits - they're so photogenic.

A few years ago we were told that if we saw crossbills in Scotland they could only be Scottish crossbills - things have changed haven't they? But it's so complicated to distinguish them - if we see them now they're just 'crossbills'.

Glad you had the black grouse - we're usually lucky in that location too. Sorry about the capers though. Never been in the thick of winter - usually see them in the areas you scouted round in spring & autumn................................

Keep those photos coming, Marcus

Sandra

[bitterntwisted]

Great report of what sounds like a superb trip. I'm going back in the Spring but you do make it sound like a trip in the Winter would be great. Very pleased you got back in one piece, too.

Graham

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Your cat sighting was of course really really interesting. A grid reference would be very much appreciated - probably, not only by me!

A "monster moggy...chasing rabbits" I should stick it on your list mate. Well done.

John

I scoped the cat from a spot called the "e'ee" locally or near the slipways here at NJ031646 (http://getamap.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/getamap/frames.htm?mapAction=gaz&gazName=g&gazString=NJ031646) the cat was hunting at NJ028645 (http://getamap.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/getamap/frames.htm?mapAction=gaz&gazName=g&gazString=NJ028645). This is the edge od Culbin Forest so the habitat was good. My only concern was I thought this cat may have had one white 'bootie' on its front right leg. I was not sure as it was static and then moved so quickly. I think this would discount a pure animal, but am not sure.

[Capercaillie71]

I scoped the cat from a spot called the "e'ee" locally or near the slipways here at NJ031646 (http://getamap.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/getamap/frames.htm?mapAction=gaz&gazName=g&gazString=NJ031646) the cat was hunting at NJ028645 (http://getamap.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/getamap/frames.htm?mapAction=gaz&gazName=g&gazString=NJ028645). This is the edge od Culbin Forest so the habitat was good. My only concern was I thought this cat may have had one white 'bootie' on its front right leg. I was not sure as it was static and then moved so quickly. I think this would discount a pure animal, but am not sure.

I'm not sure that there is such a thing as a 100% pure wildcat anymore, so I wouldn't worry too much about that. The location looks good as the animal was a considerable distance from the nearest habitation. I would submit the sighting anyway.

[birder of the south]

Shame you didn't get the Capers but I know what it feels like kind of. ;)
I was up there early last year and first morning we went to Loch Garten for the watch and we spent three hours waiting but no sign of any apart from on the screens. We then had Crested Tits, Red Grouse, Blk Grouse, Woodcock, Ptarmigan.
Next Day we went to Loch Garten again but this time none even on the screens But we had two nice summer Plum Blk Throats + Red Throat divers + lots of Ospreys.
Final Day spend two hours there no sign and then the foward hide had spotted one about a mile away on some power lines but before anybody could get out the hide it was gone. Half an hour left... he rushes back... they have another so this time there is no time wasting we just storm out the door to the foward hide and there it was a nice male Capper with it head only stuck up above the Heather.
These few days were based around the Snowy Owl on the Outer Hebrides but it flew off so we decided to stay in the Cairngorms.

[Martin Standley]

Fantastic report, gripping reading.
Shame about the cappers, but still some brilliant sightings.
Most importantly-glad your ok from your NDE.

[Mark43]

Most enjoyable read........thanks for posting it :t:

[rioja]

Day 4 - Culbin Forest

Its Christmas Day!


We head back to the cottage for Venison and the trimmings and some nice red wine

(total time in Capercaillie habitat 15.5 hours = total Capercaillie 0.1)

Great report but I can't believe you ate Rudolph ! How insensitive is that !!!!!

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Great report but I can't believe you ate Rudolph ! How insensitive is that !!!!!

I actually saw some Reindeer in the area - there is a 'semi wild' poplation.

Rudolph was very tasty I must say.

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Having listened to sonograms, and gone through all my pictures and field notes/sketches I have decided I am only in a position to say with certainty that I saw Common and Parrot Crossbills. I am 90% sure that I also got some Scots type crossers, but without recordings am reluctant to say for sure. I even think there maybe a scot in the pictures but this is not sufficent to go on - I'd rather be sure!

One for next time, and I will aim for some recordings.

[GMS]

Great read Marcus. Glad to hear you are okay!

Can only agree !!

[Larry Wheatland]

Nice report Marcus. Tricky birds to get to grips with those capers, except possibly the poor chap we found in a ditch in the link below ;)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wickateers/1323796905/in/set-72157601868677255/

[Farnboro John]

Thank you for the locations on the monster moggy as well. A nice spot for birding even without that exciting possibility - and no heaving heavy gear up steep mountains!

As Caper71 says the authorities are interested in any wildcat now (they are graded 1-5 on phenotype) so its worth reporting. I believe 5 is probably a seal-pointed Siamese whereas 1 is your classic huge striped tabby with ruff, orange belly patches, sandy paws and complete, even depth tail rings.

John

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Thank you for the locations on the monster moggy as well. A nice spot for birding even without that exciting possibility - and no heaving heavy gear up steep mountains!

As Caper71 says the authorities are interested in any wildcat now (they are graded 1-5 on phenotype) so its worth reporting. I believe 5 is probably a seal-pointed Siamese whereas 1 is your classic huge striped tabby with ruff, orange belly patches, sandy paws and complete, even depth tail rings.

John

Thanks, I will make a point of reporting the beast. I did have that instant gut feeling of 'hang on what the chuff is that' you got when things are not quite right...

[Snow Bunting]

Hi Marcus, thanks for the great report. We are going to Tomnavoulin, Glenlivet at the being of March so I will be able to make use of your tips. I won't hold my breath for capers or golden eagles!

Sue

[socksitis]

Marcus,
have I missed the next episode or have you finished your trip report? I was so looking forward to hearing about week two in Northumberland? Or like a lot of things they are worth waiting for:)

[Marcus Conway - ebirder]

Marcus,
have I missed the next episode or have you finished your trip report? I was so looking forward to hearing about week two in Northumberland? Or like a lot of things they are worth waiting for:)

I was going to put it straight onto the blog...

Let me see what I can do ;)