Exremadura - Spain

[kstennett]

We are thinking of spending a week in this region at the end of April or beginning of May. Can anyone recommend place(s) to stay? (Both general recommendations of towns etc and more specific recommendations of hotels etc would be most welcome)

Thanks
Kath

[Jane Turner]

Hi there

I have stayed twice just outside Castuera, on the C413. I can't quite remember the name of the establishment... Hostal de los Naranjes or something very like that. It was very handy for the Serena, being in the southern of it, but its a fair way north to Montfrague. If it is Bustards, Cranes, Larks and Sandgrouse you are after as opposed the the raptors, I'd thoroughly recommend it...though I did see Black Vultures from the car park!

Got on well with the owner, but that might because he wasa cycling nut and I live by Chris Boardman! Very very strange accent though, I think it was like the Spanish equivalent of a Somerset or Hereford accent!

[robinm]

When went on Extremadura we stayed near Trujillo - this (http://www.fincasantamarta.com/) is the website. Fantastic location with azure-winged magpie, hoopoe, short toed treecreeper, woodlark, white stork, scops owl etc. on the site. Trujillo is great for lesser kestrel. It is well located for all the good sites - at most a couple of hours driving.

[digi-birder]

Kath,

It doesn't look like you've had an official welcome yet, even though you have been around for some time, so, on behalf of admin and all the moderators, let me welcome you to Bird Forum.

We are also going to Extremadura in May, to the place that Robin mentions, for a week's guided birding tour with an ex-colleague of mine - a very experienced birder. He says it's a fantastic place, so we're really looking forward to it.

[robinm]

We are also going to Extremadura in May, to the place that Robin mentions, for a week's guided birding tour with an ex-colleague of mine - a very experienced birder. He says it's a fantastic place, so we're really looking forward to it.
We went with Speyside Wildlife and it is a great place - I am sure you will enjoy it. The owner serves some interesting after dinner drinks!

[digi-birder]

We went with Speyside Wildlife and it is a great place - I am sure you will enjoy it. The owner serves some interesting after dinner drinks!

And can you still see the birds after these mysterious tipples??

[mark spedding]

Kath,

Trujillo, which is about 3 hours drive from Madrid is a wonderful place to stay; Pallid Swift, Lesser Kestrel and nesting White Stork; lovely old town with conqustador connections.
You're only minutes away from grassland with both Bustards; you should see both late April (before the grasses get too long).
Best of all, Monfrague is only 1 hours drive away (Spanish Imperial Eagle, Rock Bunting, Bonelli's Eagle, Black Stork, Eagle Owl, Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Azure Winged Magpie) amongst many others.
A wonderful holiday deffinetly. Spain is, without a doubt, my favourite European birding country, and Extremadura is probably my favourite part of Spain.

Mark

[Ivan]

Truillo is a brilliant place to stay as already mentioned. If you are considering the Finca Santa Marta you need to book soon as they are very popular. We stayed at the Hotel Leon in the town itself. Quite comfortable and quiet. The birds of the area are plentiful and confiding. We were there in early May last year and got all our target species bar one. We did feel, however, that we were too far from Monfrague NP as it took ages to drive anywhere. This was because we kept stopping to birdwatch! We managed 93 species in a week of touristy pursuits as well as birding. If you want more info PM me.

Ivan

[kstennett]

Thank you all. This is very helpful. I had already stumbled across the web site of Finca Santa Marta during my internet searching and had wondered about it so your comments on that were especially useful. I think I might go for that!

We are planning to land at Madrid and drive down. Its quite a long drive isn't it? But is it pretty straightforward? Especially leaving the airport?

Diane thanks for the welcome! Yes, I've been a member for a while but mostly I just lurk around reading things ... I haven't posted much. Thats probably why I went unnoticed!

Kath

[digi-birder]

You're welcome, Kath.

Maybe we'll bump into one another at the Finca! We're there from the 10th to 16th May.

[robinm]

And can you still see the birds after these mysterious tipples??
Of course. But it does make searching for scops owl in the garden at midnight an interesting experience ;)

[kstennett]

You're welcome, Kath.

Maybe we'll bump into one another at the Finca! We're there from the 10th to 16th May.

Its a shame but we'll be there either the week before that or maybe even a fortnight earlier. Our son is doing his A levels this year starting mid May and I feel the need to be at home to nag him mercilessly about revision!!

Kath

[digi-birder]

Of course. But it does make searching for scops owl in the garden at midnight an interesting experience ;)

I'll have to remember that!

[Steve G]

Hi Kath,
I would suggest staying in the village of Torrejon el Rubio. It is a 30 min drive from the main NV(5) motorway from Madrid to Portugal -leave motorway at Jaraicejo (which is two & a half hours drive from Madrid airport).
Torrejon is right next to Monfrague NP so its easy to visit in the early mornings when the park is empty. In May expect the possibility of 5 sp of Eagle, 3 sp of Vulture, 3 sp of Kite, Black Stork, Eagle Owl , Scops Owl, & many many more. A pre-dawn visit to Portilla del Tietar in Monfrague almost guarantees Eagle Owls -often with Red-necked Nightjar as supporting cast.
Apart from Monfrague you are 50 mins drive from Almaraz -good for Purple Gallinules, Purple heron, Little bittern, Egrets, Great Reed & Savi's warbler, Marsh harrier,etc. 1 hours drive to the north takes you to the Jerte valley -potential of Honey Buzzard, Bluethroat, Water pipit, Rock thrush & other montane species as well as heaps of Golden Oriole. 15 mins drive to the south takes you through good Dehesa for Black shouldered Kite & a reliable breeding site for Spanish Imperial Eagle whilst a further 30 min drive leads over the Rio Almonte bridge (Alpine swift, Spanish Sparrow, Red-rumped Swallow) down to the plains north of Caceres where the Santa Marta de Magasca road is great for steppe species. In June 2002 I had both Bustard, both Sandgrouse, heaps of Montagu harriers, Calandra lark, Black eared Wheatear, Stone Curlew & immature Great spotted Cuckoo (the adults have often already departed by mid-May). It is a 90 minute drive from Torrejon to Merida, 50 mins to Trujillo & about 90+ mins to Guadelupe -which with Caceres(50 mins) are all worth visiting for the buildings, restaurants & roof top birds(some good wetland birds in Merida).
In Torrejon there are 2 reasonable hotel options:
The Hotel Carvajal is a small cheap, clean family run hotel in Torrejon. The food is good local cuisine -though you'll struggle if your vegetarian. They also have small apartments in an adjacent rural house which are complete with a small kitchen & are perfect for birders who keep unusual hours. These apartments are very reasonably priced. The owners only speak Spanish but are very friendly & obliging. I stayed there with my wife & 2 kids whilst my mother-in-law stayed in the hotel ( she came along as she speaks fluent Castillian). The owner is very understanding of birders -he took me to a Spanish Imperial Eagle nest (2 youngsters) on the understanding that I didnt publicise the site-though if you stay there you could always ask him!! : website:
www.monfrague.net/ingles/index.html The other dearer option is the Hospederia de Monfrague-bigger, more expensive but with more facilities -double rooms are about 94 euros per night with duplex rooms (small apartments) 120 euros. I've stayed there ( in the Duplex apartments) for a family holiday in August -the rooms are air-conditioned but Extremadura is hot in August. We had Crag martins & Red rumped Swallows from the balcony with frequent overhead Bee-eaters, Black, Egyptian & Griffon vultures, Booted Eagle & the odd Black Kite(most have left by august but are amazingly common in spring). Website:
www.alextur.net/hotel/monfrague/index.html
Sorry for making this posting so long but I would be happy to give further info if required. I had toyed with the idea of writing a trip report on Extremadura but am not sure there would be much of a demand for it. Its a great & fairly cheap place to visit & is a surprisingly good venue for a family holiday as long as your kids are fairly easy-going(mine were 5 & 9 years when we visited).
Cheers,
Steve

[Tim Allwood]

I wrote a report for here in 93 with sdetailed maps of the best sites - which don't change much!) You can get it from Steve Whitehouse...he has added bits to it over the yearsa. You can actually stay in the national park itself therby cutting down on travel. You need a tent though!

[kstennett]

Hi Kath,
I would suggest staying in the village of Torrejon el Rubio. It is a 30 min drive from the main NV(5) motorway from Madrid to Portugal -leave motorway at Jaraicejo (which is two & a half hours drive from Madrid airport).
............
Cheers,
Steve

Thank you for such a long and interesting message Steve. The Hotel Carvajal looks to be another very good option as we certainly do want to visit Monfragüe.

Now I really do need to make up my mind and get this holiday booked!

Kath

[Ben H]

We are thinking of spending a week in this region at the end of April or beginning of May. Can anyone recommend place(s) to stay? (Both general recommendations of towns etc and more specific recommendations of hotels etc would be most welcome)

Thanks
Kath

Hi

I spent two weeks in the area in May 2003. I can only echo everyone else's views in emphasising what a wonderful area it is.

We split the time between two different areas. For the first week we stayed in Malpartida de Plascensia in a charming family run hotel called the Posada de Amonaria. This is just to the north of the Monfrague National Park, but is also an excellent base to explore the foothills of the Gredos mountains where you can see some unusual species like Citril Finch and Rock Thrush.

For the second week we were based at the Finca, an excellent hotel and very close to the steppe areas.

Most of the birds are fantastically easy to see, we only dipped on Black Bellied Sandgrouse and Stone Curlew. On a personal note I found La Serena slightly disappointing. The steppe species were easier to see on the Belen Steppes, and it is an extremely hot, barren enviroment by May.

Hope this is of some help.

[Steve G]

Kath, I don't know what others think but I'm convinced you need to be as close to Monfrague as possible to get the full benefit of the place. There are some excellent walks in the park & it rains raptors. In the early morning & the evenings the place is deserted. My wife & I managed to see Wild Boar, Otters & Genet there as a consequence of staying adjacent to the park.
The Jerte valley is in easy reach for montane species & there are some glorious walks there also such as La Garganta de los Infiernos(the Throat of Hell) which despite its grim name is a beautiful place -lush, green, humid & cool. As I mentioned Almaraz is close & is an excellent wetland site for reedbed birds especially. Though the Belen plains are near Trujillo & the Finca Santa Marta the plains north of Caceres to the west of the village of Santa Marta de Magasca are only a short drive from Torrejon & I easily found all the steppe species there fairly quickly despite having the family in tow( Black-shouldered Kite is also regular just to the north of this area at Monroy).
Get John Muddeman's book on Birding in Extremadura & Ernest Garcia & Andy Paterson's book-Where to Watch Birds in Southern & Western Spain. It is also very worthwhile getting hold of Malcolm Rymer's video on Birding in Extremadura to get a year round flavour of the place-it is entitled Azure wings in the Dog's bowl (-a reference to the Iberian Magpies that visit the gardens at the Finca Santa Marta).
I've enclosed some scanned compressed images-apologies for their poor quality. The steppe species were photographed from our hire car on the St. Marta de Magasca road, the nest is of Spanish Imperial Eagle + Spanish Sparrow colony-this pair are apparently consistently successful breeders usually rearing 2 youngsters. The Eagle Owl image is from the incredible Portilla del Tietar site in Monfrague-the young were often visible as well. The scenic images are mainly from Monfrague NP but includes one very poor quality image of what was an incredibly beautiful sunset seen looking west from a col off the Jerte valley towards the massive reservoir of Garcia y Galan.
Wherever you decide to stay make sure you visit Caceres, Trujillo & especially Merida (the Roman ruins there are amazing & we saw Purple heron, Little Bittern, White Stork, Cattle & Little Egrets & Alpine & Pallid Swift from the old Puente Romano-which reminds me -if you go after the first week in May check out the Castillo in Monfrague for White-rumped Swift). Have a great time. ;)

[DJ Sideboard]

I'd recommend taking a tent and stopping at Camping Monfrague, which is just north of the park. Hotels are for wimps!. Azure winged 'pies hopping around the tent at breakfast time....happy memories!

[Edward]

We are planning to land at Madrid and drive down. Its quite a long drive isn't it? But is it pretty straightforward? Especially leaving the airport?



Driving in Spain is a piece of cake, Kath, although I am used to driving on the right! it was very easy to navigate from Madrid airport and there is very little traffic compared to the UK and everything clearly marked. The only danger is when the driver is too busy craning his neck to look at those Short-toed Eagles overhead or the brilliant Rollers on the phone lines.

The word Extremadura is magic to my ears and you'll have a superb time. As everyone says it's a fabulous destination and Trujillo makes an ideal base with White Storks, Pallid Swifts, Lesser Kestrels and Griffon and Black Vultures all flying over the market place!

Interesting to note that Ben found La Serena disappointing. We found it to be by far the best steppe area (followed by the plains west of Santa Marta de Magasca) with all the specialities easily located. Of course, birds move around and what's good at one time may not be good at another time. We were there in mid-April and it was still COLD on the steppes, reminded us of spring birding in Iceland! A friend of mien went in June and said it was hopeless for birding in 44°C. Ironically Stone Curlew was commonest on the Belen Steppe (see Ben's post)! Definitely recommend John Muddeman's Birdwatching guide to Extremadura. Don't leave home without it.

Enjoy!


E

[Ben H]

[
Interesting to note that Ben found La Serena disappointing. We found it to be by far the best steppe area (followed by the plains west of Santa Marta de Magasca) with all the specialities easily located. Of course, birds move around and what's good at one time may not be good at another time. We were there in mid-April and it was still COLD on the steppes, reminded us of spring birding in Iceland! A friend of mien went in June and said it was hopeless for birding in 44°C. Ironically Stone Curlew was commonest on the Belen Steppe (see Ben's post)! Definitely recommend John Muddeman's Birdwatching guide to Extremadura. Don't leave home without it.

Enjoy!


E[/QUOTE]

I think the lack of birds in La Serena when we were there can be directly attributed to the weather. In late May the temperature was approaching 40 degrees. Hardly ideal for birding! I'm not familiar with spring in Iceland, but I'm guessing April in La Serena was rather chilly.

[Edward]

Hi Ben, on La Serena on 19 April 2003 it was 10°C but it made it better for birding. No heat haze whatsoever and a temperature we're certainly used to here in Iceland. Bee-eaters were conspicuous by their absence until the sun came out a day or two later. I have fond memories of Stone Curlews here. Whilst looking at our first Woodchat Shrike we noticed our first Stone Curlew and whilst focusing on the Stone Curlew we saw our first Little Bustard behind it. I did get the impression though that the whole area would be unbearable in hot weather.

E

[Jane Turner]

I last visited la Serena in August!!!!! It was well..interesting them. Despite the oppressive heat and heat haze....it was still stunning. 200 Calandra Larks in the air is a sight and sound that will live with me for ever!

[Steve G]

La Serena undoubtedly has large numbers of all the important steppe species though use of insecticides in the last few years have affected the invertebrate populations (Locusts & various species of giant 'hoppers & crickets especially) and thus the birds. The main problem is that it is a huge site & the birds move around freely. To make the best of La Serena you really need good up to date "intelligence" on what is where otherwise it's a needle in a haystack job - hence the huge contrast in birding trip reports for this area which seem to range from brilliant to bird desert! I have little experience of Belen plains though it is undoubtedly good. The plains at Santa Marta de Magasca cannot in my (most humble) opinion be beaten. Everything can be seen from the car & there is no problem stopping almost anywhere on the road. Pin-tailed & BB Sandgrouse are usually the most problematic birds at any of the steppe sites but I've always found them fairly easy to locate on the large cereal fields to the south of the St Marta de Magasca road about 2 miles from the roads junction with the Torrejon-Caceres road. The pylons here hold nestboxes which are occupied by Rollers (though some of the boxes are falling to bits). It is the good varied steppe habitat here combined with friendly agricultural practice that make this compact area so good. The livestock fields are also always worth a scan as dead livestock are not uncommon here -attracting all 3 species of Vulture as well as Black Kites & Ravens. My wife is not a birder (& sadly I have given her lots of reasons to not like birding) but she was captivated by the sight of 3 huge Black vultures & about a dozen Griffon getting torn into a goat carcase in a roadside field & indeed it is memories like this that make her keen to return to Extremadura in the future.

[John Cantelo]

Re: places to stay in Extremadura
First time we went there we stayed in a small hotel in Torrejon el Rubio
Caravajal, Paseo de Pizarro 54, Torrejon el Rubio
Tel 927 45 52 54
www.bme.es/ctmonfrague/hotel.html
… which also has apartments -
www.bme.es/ctmonfrague/apartamentos.html

It’s a perfectly decent family hotel which stands on outskirts of the village conveniently on the T-junction with the road to Monroy (& B-s Kites). It also has apartments to rent which is a good deal if there are 3-4 of you (rather than a couple as we were). Torrejon is a one-street-village, but does sport a couple of restaurants. The far more expensive and more ‘swish’ Hospederia de Monfrague is on the other side of the village so marginally nearer Monfague.

Second time we went we stayed in Malpartida de Plasencia – a fairly typical little Spanish village (with Lesser Kestrels nesting on the church & B-s Kite reported in the area). Oddly, we couldn’t find an open restaurant in the village & so ate in the absurdly large modern hotel on the outskirts. The place we stayed in did a light breakfast, but not lunch/evening meals so the 5 min walk to the aforesaid hotel was convenient. La Posada de Amonaria is up a side street in the village and is a beautifully restored ‘posada’. Lovely rooms, old wooden doors, brass bedsteads, etc; well worth staying in to drink up the oh-so-Spanish atmosphere. It’s not so convenient as Torrejon for ‘birdy’ places, but it’s still only a short drive to Monfrague. I actually found the longer drive into the park via the EX108 & CC911 (rather than the more obvious route) much better for birds – my only Bonelli’s Eagle, Orphean Warbler & much else. If you also want explore the Jerte valley area (much recommended) then this is a better place to stay. I saw several species in this area that I didn’t get elsewhere; Ortolan Buntings, Honey Buzzards, Firecrest, Quail, Bonelli’s Warblers and, best of all, Bluethroat.

La Posada de Amonaria
Calle de la Luz 7,
10680 Malpartida de Plasencia, Caceres
www.amonaria.com

Details of this & many other attractive places to stay may be found in Alastair Sawday’s “Special Places to Stay in Spain”. Also have a look at www.casarural.net for places to stay (eg Las Canterras).

There’s also a camp site near the station which also rents log cabins. I’ve not stayed there, but those who have report it’s OK (and B-s Kite is sometimes seen over it). There are also a good number of places to stay in Trujillo which is a gorgeous must-see village; watching Pallid Swift, Lesser K’s, R-R Swallow, etc whilst eating good food & supping beer in the square is a not to be missed experience!

John Cantelo

[Tim Allwood]

The campsite mentioned by DJ Sideboard isn't really rough at all - it's actally quite nice and has a fine restaurant and swimming pool and there are some excellent birds right outside your tent.

Plus you're right on the spot, as Steve mentioned