Cleaning binoculars.

[lvn600]

What is the best way to clean your binoculars? What are the best products to use. How often should you do it? :h?:

[Katy Penland]

Simplest answer: Whenever they need it.

I keep a small can of "canned air" in my pack (usually in the camera bag) and before touching anything to the lenses, will use that to blow off loose dust/dirt/crumbs ;), then I just breathe onto each lens element for a bit of condensation, and use a micro-fiber cloth to gently wipe dry. Use a slightly damp cloth to wipe dust and dirt off the bins themselves.

When I'm on pelagic trips, I tend to wipe my bins down with a damp cloth several times a day to keep the salt spray from accumulating on the rubber components and in the hinges. To clean the optics, I run warm water on each lens element (my bins are waterproof), shake off the excess water, and use a micro-fiber cloth to dry the glass.

I.e., I wouldn't use anything but a cloth made for fine optics on your lenses, and certainly never anything made from wood products, like kleenex, paper towels, etc. The micro-fiber cloths can be found at any camera store, but they're expenesive: Starting around $9 and going up for an 8-10" square. But well worth it to prevent scratching the coatings.

I don't know about using any kind of "lens cleaner" for lenses, whether for camera, bins or scopes. I've never used anything like this but maybe someone else can comment.

[salty]

i also find a small soft brush (for make-up etc) are handy for getting rid of dust/sand partcals from your bins.

[Bubbs]

What is the best way to clean your binoculars? What are the best products to use. How often should you do it? :h?:

In all my years birding I've either breathed on the lens and used a clean cotton handkechief (white of course) or neat alcohol and a soft cleaning cloth. Never had a problem.

john.

[Leif]

What is the best way to clean your binoculars? What are the best products to use. How often should you do it? :h?:

This has come up in a previous thread and had lots of input with a wide range of opinions. I'm feeling too lazy to search for it though!

The most expensive bins have hard coatings and so are more tolerant of abuse. Leica use quartz, Swarovski call their coating Swarodur (whatever that might be) and I presume that Nikon and Zeiss also take some steps to harden the coatings though I don't know for sure. Cheaper optics tend not to have such tough coatings and so more care should be taken.

Poor cleaning might lead to a gradual build up of small scratches on the lens surface, which will scatter light, and reduce contrast. The worst case is that you will re-figure the optical surface, resulting in a loss of sharpness. I know of one case of a 50 year old Leica camera lens that produced soft images due to overzealous cleaning.

I never use the breath and micro-fibre cloth approach as I am too worried that it will degrade the optics. (Not that I have evidence.) I take a more cautious approach.

One cleaning method is to blow dirt off with a hand bulb blower, then take a bit of cotton wool from a sterile pack so that it is free from grit, moisten it with photographic lens cleaning fluid (isopropyl alcohol and distilled water as far as I know) and then draw the cotton over a lens without applying pressure. Discard after a wipe of two and repeat with another bit and so on. Alternatively blow grit away, then lay a lens tissue (e.g. from Jessops) over the lens, apply some fluid, and draw the tissue across the lens, and then away. I can get optics looking like new even when viewed in glancing light.

I believe that amateur astronomers are even more careful than me.

Leif

[lvn600]

Well I guess I will combine these suggested methods to come up with one of my own. I do have one of those bulb brushes. Even though my binoculars are supposed to be waterproof I don't think I would take a chance of running them under water. I guess I better stop using sandpaper to clean my lenses.(Just kidding of course). Thanks to all for the feedback.

[Grousemore]

Some good advice above, I'd only add that Walmart sell microfibre cloths for 'no money' and Zeiss sell a lens cleaning spray that seems to do the job for $6 or so.

[iporali]

Here are my opinions on this very important issue, which is worth repeating occasionally ;)
In birdwatching the optics are often used in many different conditions and different properties of "dirt" may determine the optimal cleaning procedure. Astro-optics are not usually exposed to dusty or rainy conditions, sandstorms or salt water sprays, which means that IMO more attention has to be paid on cleaning birdwatching optics. Well, I wouldn't clean my optics until at home in very clean environment.

A recommended general purpose cleaning fluid (by the Leica microscope service):
70ml isopropyl alcohol (pure, not technical grade)
30ml distilled water
1-2 drops of ammonia
It has enough water to dissolve salt crystals, alcohol penetrates into some greases and ammonia reduces drying spots.

If the lens is heavily exposed to salt-water sprays (seawatching) the IPA-water ratio can be lowered (eg. 50-50%).

Greasy/oily lenses may require higher percentage of isopropanol or stronger solvents (not water miscible): trichloroethylene, carbon tetrachloride, ethyl ether, freon ff, heptane, methylene chloride, naptha, toluene, turpentine, or xylene. Many of these are carcinogenic or toxic BTW.

Of course - as mentioned above - removal of any hard particles (eg. using a brush-blower) prior to wiping is very important. Leif's gentle wiping technique is highly recommended.
HTH,

Ilkka

[gw4aurora]

Blow,breath,wipe. Sorted.

Chris.

[matt green]

johnson's baby wipes are brilliant for cleaning grimey mit prints off the rubber armouring after a hot summer.i also use those silk dusting cloth's from viking optical centres.these are genuinly lint free and wont clog up your lenses like tissue paper etc.also good are old shaving brushes for your delicate lenses.matt

[Bradley B]

A recommended general purpose cleaning fluid (by the Leica microscope service):
70ml isopropyl alcohol (pure, not technical grade)
30ml distilled water
1-2 drops of ammonia
It has enough water to dissolve salt crystals, alcohol penetrates into some greases and ammonia reduces drying spots.



Iporali may be more knowledgeable than I, but I have repeatedly run across warnings against using ammonia on my bins due to possible damage to the coatings. Most common advice I have seen, other than a quality commercial cleaning solution, would be distilled water and pure isopropyl alcohol.

Perhaps ammonia is not an issue on a particular microscope.

e.g. see Item 2 on this FAQ from Astro-Optical, the same advice as many others: keep your cleaner ammonia-free to avoid harming the coatings.

http://tinyurl.com/6r8v7

Bradley B.

[iporali]

Iporali may be more knowledgeable than I, but I have repeatedly run across warnings against using ammonia on my bins due to possible damage to the coatings.
Bradley,

The warnings are probably mainly against commercial window cleaning solutions (Windex?), which have much higher ammonia concentration and pH. But if you don't want to take any risks, IPA-water is surely a safe cleaning solution.

Ilkka

[lvn600]

I have a hard time getting the outer rim of the lenses. Is using a cotton swab with cleanser o.k.? If not what is the best way to get the outer edge of the lenses clean?

[javva]

Although this thread is now a few weeks old, it looks like just the right one for me to chuck in my five pennies worth’.
I think I have something that may be of interest.
I hope that’s ok with you all.


Anyway….

I have a product called Opticlean I keep with my camera kits. I never ‘wash and wipe’ my cameras optics. Medium format lenses don’t come cheap y’know. Obviously all my camera lenses have suitable filters over their front elements to help keep them mostly pristine, but the rear elements need a bit of ‘TLC’ from time to time though.

Sand and salt air will soon leave a residue of the lenses of binoculars and scopes so out came the Opticlean, and ‘hey presto’, clean again right up to the edges.
Here are a couple of links site which you like to visit.


http://www.caliope.co.uk/html/opticlean.html


http://homepages.tesco.net/paul.buglass/yaspages/yas%20articles/opticlean%20review.htm








javva

[RecoveringScot]

In all my years birding I've either breathed on the lens and used a clean cotton handkechief (white of course) or neat alcohol and a soft cleaning cloth. Never had a problem.

john.

Snap.

[javva]

Snap.





.Oh well. What ever floats your boat!!!! ;)







.

[javva]

Hi,

I found that doing a search for Opticlean threw up past references to this product with regard to lens cleaning. I’m pleased in a way. Not because I have shares in the company or anything but that a number of members have given it a try.
Along with the majority, I too to use canned air and micro-fibre lens cloths as a rule but have found Opticlean most useful for edge to edge cleaning of the rear elements of my wide and ultra-wide angle lenses in particular. To date I have not experienced problems with ‘sticking at the edges’ though this may be due to the lenses construction and finish.

Given the outlay on fine optics birders spend on their hobby, there seemed to my mind that this product had a place in a cleaning regime if only used once in a blue moon.









.

[egret3]

Wow.. have I been doing it the wrong way
glad I read this.. but please what is Neat alcohol?
just want an easy way..I do not have expensive
glasses..

like the idea of the hankie or anything soft cotton
NO... a bit of distilled water.. Would Evian not do?
in a pinch?

[lvn600]

I've kind of figured out that when you have spots or streaks that its easier to breathe on the lens and give a quick light half swirl motion with a micro cloth and repeat the process until its gone. Before I was swirling around the whole lens for one or two spots and this would take more time + effort than what was needed .

[Tim Allwood]

never use a solvent

i wouldn't let alcohol anywhere near mine

it takes off the coatings!

nothing more drastic than the hem of a t shirt

Tim

[SimonC]

..........nothing more drastic than the hem of a t shirt

Tim
SO glad I'm not the only one!:clap:

[Chhayanat]

I have a hard time getting the outer rim of the lenses. Is using a cotton swab with cleanser o.k.? If not what is the best way to get the outer edge of the lenses clean?
As there was no reply to this query, I am posting here in the hope that someone will help. I find that after using circular motions to clean the lenses the very edge is difficult to reach, leaving a narrow circular deposit of cleaning fluid or skin grease.

[xenophobe]

Alcohol taking off lens coatings? Riiight... That's like saying if you leave a teacup filled with alcohol, it will dissolve the porcelain. lol

I use, in the following order:

1) Compressed air
2) Brush
3) Lens cleaning solution
4) Chemtronics #120 foam tip (used for cleaning medical microscopes) or Micro fiber cloth
5) Lens pen for final edge touch up (after all abrasives have positively been removed)


That's the way I prefer to do it, and I clean pretty infrequently... Probably once every week or three of daily use.

[Leif]

never use a solvent

i wouldn't let alcohol anywhere near mine

it takes off the coatings!

nothing more drastic than the hem of a t shirt

Tim

"never use a solvent"

"i wouldn't let alcohol anywhere near mine"

Nonsense. Isopropyl alchohol is ideal and best mixed with distilled water to dissolve contaminants that are not alcohol soluble.

But anyone who uses whisky to clean their bins should be shot.

Leif

[Leif]

As there was no reply to this query, I am posting here in the hope that someone will help. I find that after using circular motions to clean the lenses the very edge is difficult to reach, leaving a narrow circular deposit of cleaning fluid or skin grease.

As mentioned by others, blow away loose grit with a blower. Then take a piece of cotton wool from a sealed bag, taking care not to touch the cleaning surface. Moisten with a few drops of lens cleaning fluid, and gently pull over the lens. Don't press. Bear in mind that at the start their might be small bits of grit stuck on the surface and you don't want to grind that in to the lens. Discard the cotton, and repeat until the lens is clean. The only problem is that strands of cotton can get caught at the edge of the lens, but the blower, or plastic tweezers will remove that. (Metal tweezers could damage the lens if you have unsteady hands.) This method is cheap and simple. But don't buy lens cleaning fluid from opticians: that stuff is full of impurities. Isopropyl alcolhol mixed with distilled water also works. You can also use lens cleaning tissues, but I prefer cotton wool.

As mentioned elsewhere by many others, some optics have hard coatings applied, or the manufacturer makes sure that the top-most coatings are hard. For example Leica apply a very hard quartz layer. Swarovski have something called Swarodur. For this reason some (all?) top end bins and scopes can withstand rougher treatment, which is important for the more extreme of us who use equipment in salty and/or dirty conditions, and who need to clean their kit in the field, often in less than ideal conditions.

Leif

[Henry B]

"never use a solvent"

"i wouldn't let alcohol anywhere near mine"

Nonsense. Isopropyl alchohol is ideal and best mixed with distilled water to dissolve contaminants that are not alcohol soluble.

But anyone who uses whisky to clean their bins should be shot.

Leif
Quite right Leif,Whisky is the water of life. hb

[lvn600]

[QUOTE]But anyone who uses whisky to clean their bins should be shot. Anyone who uses whiskey to clean their bins probably already had several shots and doesn't need any more. 3:-)

[zuiko]

Solvents can harm the plastics and cements used to keep lenses in place; some like acetone and others can negatively affect rubber.

Isopropyl alcohol is OK but almost aways leaves drying marks because it is a "heavier" alcohol (3 carbon).

The safest is probably methanol (1 carbon) a light alcohol which is very rapidly vaporised and dries without marks when applied sparingly. Methanol is used to clean digital camera sensor surfaces for example and is quite safe with 'coatings' which are inorganic materials which are not dissolved or affected by methanol.

[iporali]

The safest is probably methanol (1 carbon) a light alcohol which is very rapidly vaporised and dries without marks when applied sparingly.
Safe on coatings and excellent for cleaning - yes, but it also easily penetrates through the skin and may have adverse effect on eyesight (large doses may make you blind). Be very careful or wear protective gloves when handling methanol - and don't breath the vapours.

Ilkka


ps. 100% methanol (or any other alcohol) also does not dissolve salt crystals, so it may be better to use it as finishing treatment.

[Leif]

Solvents can harm the plastics and cements used to keep lenses in place; some like acetone and others can negatively affect rubber.

Isopropyl alcohol is OK but almost aways leaves drying marks because it is a "heavier" alcohol (3 carbon).

The safest is probably methanol (1 carbon) a light alcohol which is very rapidly vaporised and dries without marks when applied sparingly. Methanol is used to clean digital camera sensor surfaces for example and is quite safe with 'coatings' which are inorganic materials which are not dissolved or affected by methanol.

I've never had problems with drying marks. My understanding is that drying marks come from impurities, either those already on the lens surface, or in the alcohol. Hence whichever alcohol you use, it should be high purity.

I don't think you can purchase pure methanol in the UK unless you have a licence. I think it's also near impossible to buy pure ethanol. Isopropyl alcohol is easy to obtain, though I think you have to be over 18 as solvent abuse is a problem these days.

You are right about taking care with solvents. I once dissolved the focussing screen of an SLR. And of course only small amounts shiould be used to prevent solvent + dirt seaping into the lens internals.

Leif

[Otto McDiesel]

"never use a solvent"

"i wouldn't let alcohol anywhere near mine"

Nonsense. Isopropyl alchohol is ideal and best mixed with distilled water to dissolve contaminants that are not alcohol soluble.

But anyone who uses whisky to clean their bins should be shot.

Leif

I used vodka to clean mine, once or twice. It was a waste. B (:

[Bubbs]

"never use a solvent"

"i wouldn't let alcohol anywhere near mine"

Nonsense. Isopropyl alchohol is ideal and best mixed with distilled water to dissolve contaminants that are not alcohol soluble.

But anyone who uses whisky to clean their bins should be shot.

Leif

This is exactly what I use...ISOPROPANOL.. and have for years. My ancient Zeiss are going strong and the lens are still brill...mind you my skin is now green and my hair has fallen out.... :t:

You can buy the above from a chemist......well I did!..not sure if you still can; the PC Brigade are probably stood outside now.

They [the pc lot] were responsible for cancelling a Santa and Reindeer visit near me cos the owners would have to issue all the children (who may have stroked the reindeer) with Sani Wipes. The world is going mad.

John AKA..The Jolly Green Giant

[Leif]

I used vodka to clean mine, once or twice. It was a waste. B (:

I suspect you should have drunk the alcohol, and then breathed on the lens to get a mist of alcohol dissolved in water vapour ... Might be worth trying ...

Leif

[laservet]

I blow off particulates with an ear bulb syringe, then brush with a sable artist brush. I follow this with either Kodak lens cleaning solution or Zeiss lens cleaning solution on surgical roll cotton. On a couple of occasions I had something greasy on the eye lenses that neither cleaning solution could remove, so I washed them in the kitchen sink with Dawn dishwashing detergent (they use it to remove oil from oil-soaked sea birds), rinsed them off under the faucet, then a final rinse with distilled water.

[etc]

I've done more damage to my optics by cleaning, so it's a learning experience.

I use microfiber cloth after liberally flooding the lense surface with a cleaning fluid...

I think these microfiber clothins need to be cleaned regularly as they trap particles.

[etudiant]

Cleaning damage, mostly swirls on the lenses, may be the #1 contributor to binocular decay, if the Ebay listings are representative. So it seems sensible to clean binoculars extra carefully, brush the lenses upside down, so grit falls away rather than being redistributed,
use fresh wipes or microfiber cloth, be liberal with cleaning fluid and above all, be gentle.

[etc]

I think a lot of previously used methods no longer apply given the widespread use of new hydrophobic and AR coatings on major Alpha binos. Ammonia in glass cleaners will cause the breakdown of these coatings.

Windex contains methanol (alcohol) which is a solvent. Solvents are called this name because they do dissolve a lot of stuff besides dirt. Solvents are eating away at your coating even if they are called lense cleaners.

Generally cleaning solutions should be detergent based and as such be slightly base in nature.

I prefer a soap-based cleaner that will not cause gamage, or you can make your own: A few drops of Dawn in a bottle you can carry with you. That would be a safe product for AR/hydrophobic coated lenses. Or any mild soap that contains no moisturizers, fragrances, or harsh 'grease cutters'.

Just make sure that you don use a lense cleaner that contains any type of solvent like ISOPROPYL -- of which 90% of all lense cleaners are made. Get a lense cleaner that is made purely from surfactants soap family.

Isopropyl, Methanol, Acetone and many other solvents will undermine these new coatings and eat away at the base in simple language and delamination or crazing can occur.

Having said that, I never personally detected any damage caused by an alcohol/isopropyl-based cleaner, but then again, I now clean as rarely as possible.
I wouldn't risk with these new, expensive coatings. I don't think you will see instant damage, but damage over a period of time. I do however have an older Leica without these new hydrophobic coatings that doesn't seem to be affected by anything.

[OwenM]

I think a lot of previously used methods no longer apply given the widespread use of new hydrophobic and AR coatings on major Alpha binos. Ammonia in glass cleaners will cause the breakdown of these coatings.

Windex contains methanol (alcohol) which is a solvent. Solvents are called this name because they do dissolve a lot of stuff besides dirt. Solvents are eating away at your coating even if they are called lense cleaners.
I usually use Zeiss pre-moistened lens cloths. What they're pre-moistened with is isopropyl alcohol.
The packaging states:
"Zeiss Len Cloths safely and quickly clean any lens, especially those with Zeiss anti-reflective multi-layer coatings. High-tech ammonia-free(they like those hyphens, don't they?) formula cleans effectively without leaving streaks or residue".

[elkcub]

Isopropyl, Methanol, Acetone and many other solvents will undermine these new coatings and eat away at the base in simple language and delamination or crazing can occur.

Etc.,

I'm not at all sure this statement is correct. Zeiss lens cleaner contains isopropanol, which is isopropyl alcohol. It's recommended "especially" for Zeiss anti-reflective, multi-layer coatings, and there is no exclusion for the hydrophobic coating. I also use it on Swarovski, Nikon, and Swift instruments, sometimes even my eyeglasses. :-O

Clear lenses,
Elk

[etc]

I never tried these Zeiss cleaning packages. They must be pretty convenient in the field. Still, I would want to rinse the lense with ample amount of water before using anything else.

I damaged a Swarovski rangefinder because I didn't put enough cleaning solution on the lense, thinking that since I had a premium microfiber cleaning cloth which couldn't possibly damage anything.

I mixed my own cleaning solution by adding a few drops of Dawn in water, putting it all in a contact lense cleaning solution bottle, the small one that holds a few oz. Very convenient in the field.

[elkcub]

Etc,

The basic kit from Zeiss includes a 1 oz. bottle of lens cleaner, several pre-moistened cloths, and a microfiber cloth. The instructions are reasonably clear, although I don't use the microfiber at all. My preference is to apply and remove the cleaner using 3-4 fresh cotton balls. It's easy enough to do in the field, although a soft lens brush is usually sufficient to remove dust. Before the Zeiss cleaner was available I did the same thing with alcohol. Never had a scratch or cleaning mark. Coatings were never damaged.

Elk

[iporali]

Isopropyl, Methanol, Acetone and many other solvents will undermine these new coatings and eat away at the base in simple language and delamination or crazing can occur.

Unfortunately this statement is not correct. It comes up quite often, but it is incorrect nevertheless. New AR-coatings tolerate all these solvents, but acetone is not recommended because it may dissolve plastic or rubber materials around the lenses. Methanol is a very good gleaning solution, but very toxic. This is why isopropanol is most commonly recommended - it leaves some drying marks but takes off most of the dirt.

Once again, a DIY general-purpose cleaning solution recipe directly from Leica:

70ml pure isopropyl alcohol (dissolves hyrdophobic "greasy" material)
30ml filtered, distilled water (dissolves eg. salt crystals)
1 drop of ammonia (yes, it is safe and helps to prevent drying marks)

Use it as Leif describes above and you can be sure that no damage occurs to the coatings. :t:

Best regards,

Ilkka

[OwenM]

I never tried these Zeiss cleaning packages. They must be pretty convenient in the field. Still, I would want to rinse the lense with ample amount of water before using anything else.
They are convenient. Sure beats carrying around a bottle of cleaning solution and cloth.
Neglected to mention that I always have distilled water with me. Ex-girlfriend drank it, and after I got used to it everything else tastes funny, so I go through a gallon or more a day. Have jugs of it at work, home, and in my vehicle. If there is dust or grit visible on the lens, I rinse it with the distilled water, and blot it with a generic lens cleaning cloth(unlimited supply at work) before using the wipes. I try to be extra careful since I really don't know much about caring for lenses, plus my stuff tends to need cleaning very frequently. At home I actually use canned air before all the other stuff.
Half afraid I'm going to wear a hole in some ocular lenses before it's all over with:eek!:

[Alexis Powell]

There is nothing wrong with using a "solvent"--in fact, I dare say you should. It's good to dissolve salts and emulsify oils before trying to remove them. Water is a solvent.

I mostly clean lenses using the techniques recommended by Nikon: blow away dust with a bulb, brush away dust with a soft brush, blow away dust again, moisten cotton ball with water/ethanol (or these days, Zeiss's solution since they sent me some free) and soak/wipe lens gently, remove remaining cleaner with fresh cotton ball and with condensed breath or distilled water.

I've been using this simple technique for over 20 years on my camera lenses and binoculars and have not caused any noticeable damage (I have none of the fine scratches that I commonly see on other's optics). There's no real trick to cleaning lenses easily, effectively, and inexpensively as far as I'm concerned.

--AP

[etc]

20 years ago binos did not have the exotic hydrophobic or anti-reflective coatings we have today on both binos and glasses. I think the coatings have been around for a while but just recently started to be applied to external lenses. It's a different situation these days.

[Alexis Powell]

20 years ago binos did not have the exotic hydrophobic or anti-reflective coatings we have today on both binos and glasses. I think the coatings have been around for a while but just recently started to be applied to external lenses. It's a different situation these days.

I'd like to see some documentation for your assertion that the most recent multicoatings and the new hydrophobic coatings are sensitive to cleaning with ammonia and/or alcohol.

--AP

[etc]

I take it back. The "hot" coatings on real glass should be considerably more resistant to this kind of thing. I think the problem primarily exists on plastic lenses (as in eyeglasses) that get the dip type of coating which is nowhere near as durable as Magnesium Fluioride treated at 300C on glass lenses.

[Leif]

They [the pc lot] were responsible for cancelling a Santa and Reindeer visit near me cos the owners would have to issue all the children (who may have stroked the reindeer) with Sani Wipes. The world is going mad.


Blimey, that is unbelievable. Lunacy.

[ajie1a]

Some binocularsmanufacturer offered "Claening Kit", like Carl Zeiss (https://photo-shop.zeiss.com/en/Products/1216-071), or Swarovski (http://www.swarovskioptik.at/index.php?c=produkte&l=en&nID=x434b76cadf9738.68885489&css=&detail=1139908415__ID43f19f3f28c193.12323599&produktname=Cleaning%20Set). Things like this can realy help you.

Hier is a photo of user guide from zeiss cleaning kit and a photo of Swarovski claening kit.

[Simon S]

I would add at this point that some of the early coatings found on binoculars like Wray, Ross and even Swifts have very soft coatings that can be rubbed off with little effort.
I use Mr Mussel window cleaner as it seems to be less harsh than IPA and does not leave a smear.

[Henry B]

I would add at this point that some of the early coatings found on binoculars like Wray, Ross and even Swifts have very soft coatings that can be rubbed off with little effort.
I use Mr Mussel window cleaner as it seems to be less harsh than IPA and does not leave a smear.

Do you mean Mr Muscle.B (::t:

[Simon S]

Do you mean Mr Muscle.B (::t:
Thanks Henry:t:3:-)

[Mike Penfold]

I'm looking for a replacement for Zeiss lens cleaning fluid, which (after careful preparation of the lens surface), leaves smears.

Anyone have direct experience with Residual Oil Remover?

The ABA lists this in their catalogue, Vistek in Toronto sells ROR, and Kinderman's (the Canadian distributor of Swarovski) uses and sells it.

Mike

[npos]

I'm looking for a replacement for Zeiss lens cleaning fluid, which (after careful preparation of the lens surface), leaves smears.
Mike

The only lens cleaning product I have found that leaves NO residue is Formula MC from The Filter Connection in Connecticut, USA. I got this information from photographers who use this stuff and endorse it. I have seen no evidence that it damages coatings or mounts, but do not apply fluids directly to glass surfaces, put one drop on a microfiber cloth.

I have no financial or sales relationship with this company -- I only purchase and use the product!

Norman P

http://www.2filter.com/prices/products/formulamc.html

[etudiant]

Have used ROR for some time. It works very well, but must be immediately removed with a cotton puff or something similarly non abrasive, otherwise the oil just dries right back onto the lenses.

[Mike Penfold]

Thanks.

FWIW, this is how I clean lenses (about every 3-4 months):
1. blow/brush off inverted lens with Hakuba blower brush;
2. blow off inverted lens (from about a foot away) with Falcon Dust-Off Professional XL;
3. saturate Q-tip cotton swab with lens cleaning fluid, and apply to surface of lens;
4. and soak up/lightly wipe up fluid with Pec-Pad Non-Abrasive Wipes, using one side of
a pad, folded in quarters.

I use a filter on the objective lens of spotting scopes, and a flip-down Op/tech Fast Cap on a medium-sized scope.

Mike

[Alexis Powell]

Have used ROR for some time. It works very well, but must be immediately removed with a cotton puff or something similarly non abrasive, otherwise the oil just dries right back onto the lenses.

I've used ROR for many years, but I don't use it very frequently because to get optimal results it isn't compatible with my preferred wet cleaning methods. It emulsifies oils, so the dry residue and residual ROR are removed in a final buffing, leaving the lens very very clean. I don't like to rub a dry lens, so I end up removing the ROR with my breath or distilled water which does not produce optimal results. For routine wet cleaning, a generic (or Zeiss) alcohol based fluid is simpler to deal with and leaves few streaks if it is followed by a wipe with distilled water.

--AP

[ScoutMan]

Can household vinegar be used as part of a cleaning solution?

[Surveyor]

Can household vinegar be used as part of a cleaning solution?

Hi;
I have never tried vinegar myself but can not help believe that the acetic acid would be detrimental to coatings. I did find the quote below on an optics site I visit from time to time. I do not agree with a some of the points in this PDF and have no direct knowledge of vinegar, but I would do considerably more research before using it on coated optics.

http://www.optcorp.com/pdf/ASOCleaningGuide.pdf

"NEVER use any cleaner with vinegar on your optics."

Ron