Zeiss FL test vs. Nikon LX, Nikon SE

[Zolarcon]

Hi BF,

I will be conducting a test this weekend with three binoculars- the Zeiss FL 8x42 vs. The Nikon SE 8x32 and The Nikon 8x42 LXL. My wife got me the Nikon 8x42 LXL for my birthday but I have the opportunity to resell it (the weight difference for me is not enough to merit the LXL but the new LXL is a smidgen brighter) and I might get the Zeiss FL 8x42. I have a very good price on a brand new Nikon Premier 8x42 LXL if anyone is interested?

I am looking for the best overall bin for me but so far the SE knocks them all out of the park. "All" meaning- Leica Ultravid, Trinivoid, Swarovski EL, Nikon HG, LXL and now thew Zeiss is up for a head to head. My bet is on the SE for overall optical quality needless to say eyecups and waterproof are irrevelant to me. I own two SEs... back up.

What I want to know is what to look for when doing my test aside from the usual? As far as- what to look for like collimation, technical tips that the average birder may not notice while using a pair of new bins. I can be thorough but still... you never know if I might miss something.

Chime in. Please.

Thank you very much,
Carlos

[Pileatus]

Hi BF,

I will be conducting a test this weekend with three binoculars- the Zeiss FL 8x42 vs. The Nikon SE 8x32 and The Nikon 8x42 LXL. My wife got me the Nikon 8x42 LXL for my birthday but I have the opportunity to resell it (the weight difference for me is not enough to merit the LXL but the new LXL is a smidgen brighter) and I might get the Zeiss FL 8x42. I have a very good price on a brand new Nikon Premier 8x42 LXL if anyone is interested?

I am looking for the best overall bin for me but so far the SE knocks them all out of the park. "All" meaning- Leica Ultravid, Trinivoid, Swarovski EL, Nikon HG, LXL and now thew Zeiss is up for a head to head. My bet is on the SE for overall optical quality needless to say eyecups and waterproof are irrevelant to me. I own two SEs... back up.

What I want to know is what to look for when doing my test aside from the usual? As far as- what to look for like collimation, technical tips that the average birder may not notice while using a pair of new bins. I can be thorough but still... you never know if I might miss something.

Chime in. Please.

Thank you very much,
Carlos

Carlos,

There's only one optical test you need to conduct and you already know what it is. After that, it's all about weight, handling, weatherproofing, etc.

I'll be interested in your findings.

John

[solentbirder]

What I want to know is what to look for when doing my test aside from the usual? As far as- what to look for like collimation, technical tips that the average birder may not notice while using a pair of new bins. I can be thorough but still... you never know if I might miss something.

Hi Carlos
I'm interested in astronomy as well as bird watching and it's widely accepted that focussing optics on stars, planets and the edge of the Moon's disk are about the most severe tests of optical quality. Stars should focus to clean pinpoints with no spikes of light or bloated shapes. Out of focus star images should be perfectly round and as you focus the image the disk should shrink smoothly to a pinpoint. The planet Jupiter should show as a clean disk in binoculars 8x or above. Double-stars should also be cleanly split. The illuminated limb of the Moon should show no false colour. In practice there are few binoculars that can perform to this level and in daylight viewing it's hard to see the differences. I once owned the Nikon 8x32SE and it met these standards and amazed me (I sold it due to the uncomfortable eye-relief but this doesn't effect everyone). The large Fujinon FMT-SX and Nikon professional porro binoculars (7x50 and 10x70 Astroluxe) also perform to these standards. Most roof-prism designs are compromised in some way under these tests, either by chromatic abberation or by bloated or mis-shaped star images. As I said, in daylight use it's often hard to see any difference between binoculars that are clearly of different quality under the stars.
Good luck with your decisions.
John

[Zolarcon]

Hi Carlos
I'm interested in astronomy as well as bird watching and it's widely accepted that focussing optics on stars, planets and the edge of the Moon's disk are about the most severe tests of optical quality. Stars should focus to clean pinpoints with no spikes of light or bloated shapes. Out of focus star images should be perfectly round and as you focus the image the disk should shrink smoothly to a pinpoint. The planet Jupiter should show as a clean disk in binoculars 8x or above. Double-stars should also be cleanly split. The illuminated limb of the Moon should show no false colour. In practice there are few binoculars that can perform to this level and in daylight viewing it's hard to see the differences. I once owned the Nikon 8x32SE and it met these standards and amazed me (I sold it due to the uncomfortable eye-relief but this doesn't effect everyone). The large Fujinon FMT-SX and Nikon professional porro binoculars (7x50 and 10x70 Astroluxe) also perform to these standards. Most roof-prism designs are compromised in some way under these tests, either by chromatic abberation or by bloated or mis-shaped star images. As I said, in daylight use it's often hard to see any difference between binoculars that are clearly of different quality under the stars.
Good luck with your decisions.
John

Thank you so much, excellent tips. I would have never thought to do that without your help.
I will post my findings possibly Sunday or Monday night if anyone is interested.

Carlos

[solentbirder]

Yes, I'd be interested in what you find.
All the best
John