Cleaning Optics

[marting]

Hello all

I spent last night cleaning my optics. I use an air brush to get rid of dust or particles that can scratch the lens and then clean them with a lens cloth but this can take some time when they have got particually dirty. So how do you all clean yours?


Cheers
Martin

[mak]

marting

The best way to clean optics is to use a blower to remove particles, then carry on as you are doing.

Do not use normal tap water should your lenses get muddy, as this can damage the lens coatings (over a period of time), if you are using water, I would suggest distilled water.

Also before using the cloth (which should be a suitable lens cloth, preferance is a microfibre cloth) if you are not using a suitable lens agent, then breath on the lens as you should not clean a dry lens, so to speak.

You say it takes time to clean the lens, bear in mind, depending on which binoculars you own a new lens could cost you quite a bit of money.

[Michael Frankis]

If you've been seawatching or other coastal birding with an onshore wind, beware of tiny salt crystals - can't see them, but they're hard enough to scratch glass if wiped off dry. Make sure they're dissolved in water first by wetting the lens before wiping.

Michael

[Leif]

Personally I wouldn't use a lens cloth as it will retain dirt form previous uses. So you will just grind dirt into the lens coatings. I prefer to avoid cleaning lens surfaces. A little dirt does not do much damage. Once a year is ample unless the optics are exposed to salty air which can damage lens coatings. If I do clean them, I use pieces of fresh cotton wool, with lens cleaning fluid, and throw each pice of cotton wool away after one wipe.

[mak]

Leif

Good point about changing the cloth or in your case, cotton wool.

The lens cloth under normal conditions should be o.k. for a short while, but I agree, it should be changed regually.

The cotton wool method is used by a lot of manufacturers, especially after they have serviced binoculars.

[marting]

Thanks for some good advice, mine were covered in salt from a sea watching trip. I never thought of the salt crystals damaging the lens. I use a Pentax microfibre lens cleaning cloth which is washable. They cost around 3 pounds and well worth a try.

Martin

[IanF]

I use a blower brush for the lose stuff anf then Bouchard Optical Wipes - they work a treat.

[Andrew]

A bit of advice, never be tempted to wipe your bins with your fleece sleeve. I did and there are two teeny scratches. Not bad ebnough to ruin them thankfully. I carry folded sheets of kitchen roll in all my birding coats and just press them onto the lens to soak up the moisture without actually wiping them.

[Andy Bright]

Amazing! I was all set to start a thread today on cleaning lenses and low and behold this happens :-)
My own philosophy is that, unless you've got some very dirty lenses, you're better off leaving the glass alone.
When I do clean the lenses, it's a blower brush then a bit of moisture from my breath and a gentle buff with a lens cloth (washed carefully in warm water without detergents).

BTW, does anyone know the insect repellant (or chemical contained in it) that can damage the coatings on glass?
Andy

[Ragna]

Iuse a thing called a lens pen for my bins its got a brush at one end and a self cleaning pad at the other £3 from 7dayshop for my scope iuse optical cleaner and a soft lens cloth or the lens pen if front of scope is very dirty after seawatghing i sometimes use opticlean this is for cleaning camera lens, you paint it on with a brush let it dry then peal it off your len is as clean as when your scope was new, can be a bit tricky to use thow.

[Andrew]

Andy, I have used a repellant that was 50% Deet and some warned me it could melt rubber but the casing of the Swaro ATS did alright. Maybe it's neat Deet (pardon the pun!) that causes damage. Mind you it was strong enough to burn my neck!

[wizard]

if the stuff burnt your neck i would throw it in the bin. check out online exactly what is in it & side effects, it is probably banned in half the states. i have a lens pen but reluctant to use it much & prefure the micro cloth washed regular so it is always clean & i breath on the lens before cleaning. they are much too expensive to take a short cut with and just give a quick wipe with a cloth. you will pay in the long run if care is not taken.
as for melting rubber................ why do we use such crap!

[Felipe]

I just bought the wide angle and telefoto acessory lenses for my Coolpix 5700 and Nikon reccommends using 100 % ethanol to clean the lenses.

Felipe

[Blincodave]

I use a Hoya skylight filter on my Nikon ED fieldscope. It provides protection, doesn't apparently degrade the quality of the image and can be easily removed for cleaning. I bought it second hand from a camera shop for £10. When I do clean it I use a Pentax micro fibre cloth which can be washed.

Dave Griffiths

[roadrunner]

My birding retailer recently advised me concerning my new Leica: submerge it in water. Horrors! Like accidentally dropping my camera into the ocean. Can that possibly be true?!

Clean optics = clear sight,
roadrunner

[Beverlybaynes]

I once attended a talk on optics given by Pete Dunne, birder and storyteller extraodinare. The man gets incredible optics thrown at him constantly by Swarovski, Leica, Zeiss, etc., for testing purposes. So he knows a lot about optics.

This same question was posed to him during the Q&A. His answer:

"I use spit and my shirttail."

After the laughter died down, he did speak more seriously about it, and made many of the same suggestions as you all have.

[helenol]

Is it ok to used those wipes one can buy for cleaning glasses etc?

[salty]

Is it ok to used those wipes one can buy for cleaning glasses etc?
yeah, i think they would be fine. i have some lens cleaner for spectacles- its in a small aerosol, but when i looked at the instructions for use, i noticed it is made by zeiss! so its probaly fine for optics, same as the chamois leather cloth i got for my specs. thats what i use anyway.

[helenol]

yeah, i think they would be fine. i have some lens cleaner for spectacles- its in a small aerosol, but when i looked at the instructions for use, i noticed it is made by zeiss! so its probaly fine for optics, same as the chamois leather cloth i got for my specs. thats what i use anyway.
Thanks Salty, hopefully that'll do nicely for my Zeiss bins then :D

[salty]

all you need is a soft chamois leather- and give your bins a gentle wipe before you put them away each night! no need for anything fancy- overcleaning is just as bad as not cleaning from my experience.

[Bill Atwood]

BTW, does anyone know the insect repellant (or chemical contained in it) that can damage the coatings on glass?
Andy

I got some on my eyeglasses which have a Zeiss antireflective coating and it did take off the coating. I am much more careful now when using spray repellent around optics.

[Jonathan B.]

Where I live it is often very dry and dusty, especially during the drought we have been in for the past six years. In the few riparian areas where I often bird, I find that in hot summer weather tiny droplets of moisture fall onto my eyepieces. In any case--hot and dry, cold and dry, or hot and humid--I find that I need to clean my binocular lenses as often as every other month.

I use a very soft lens brush and my breath to remove loose dust particles. I do all other cleaning with cotton, which I buy in bags of cotton balls. I find that the cleanliness of the cotton varies from brand to brand. I think that residues remain in cotton from processing and cleaning, and some brands tend to leave more residue on lenses than others. The cleanest brand I have found is under the label Western Family, which is a low-priced brand of all types of bathroom-cabinet items. In my experience, more expensive "sterilized" cottons leave more residue.

I wash my hands thoroughly before starting and work on a clean surface. While I work, I split each ball into two or three smaller wads. I NEVER apply any pressure from behind when touching the cotton to a lens. I start by dipping a ball in distilled water and squeezing out some of the excess. I mop the surface with the wet cotton, wiping only once and discarding the wad. I repeat this until I have wiped the entire surface. I then repeat this two or more times using good quality lens cleaning fluid. In the U.S., Sam's Club has been selling 8-ounce bottles of fluid in pairs for $5.99, which is a great buy. This certainly beats the typical 1.25-ounce bottle of Kodak or other cleaner at a photographic store for almost the same price.

After wiping with cleaning fluid a few times, and while the lens is still slightly damp, I take a clean, dry wad and wipe very lightly (again, without pressing on the cotton--instead using it like a mop) moving the wad in a circular motion until the fluid has evaporated. A few tiny swirls of purplish, hazy residue sometimes remain, regardless of the brand of fluid. These are most often around the edges of the lenses, but they are harmless and wipe off with the next cleaning. These swirls have no effect on optical performance, at least not as far as I can detect.

On occasion I have had tree sap or other tough deposits on lenses. For those I have used USP grade isopropyl alchohol, which can be purchased at almost any drug store. After cleaning with alcohol, I always clean again with lens fluid. Before using this type of alchohol, you might want to experiment to be sure it does not dissolve any plastics or other materials. I have never had to resort to a stronger solvent, and I would probably e-mail the manufacturer before using acetone or other solvents.

My method is not perfect, but I have never gotten even the tiniest scratch on a lens by using it. It does not take more than ten minutes to clean the lenses on a binocular.

The only scratches on my lenses have come from using micro-fiber lens cloths, which I quit using two years ago. I used to cringe every time I used one, even if I had just washed it. I no longer worry about scratching lens coatings.

[Alan M.]

Iuse a thing called a lens pen for my bins its got a brush at one end and a self cleaning pad at the other £3 from 7dayshop for my scope iuse optical cleaner and a soft lens cloth or the lens pen if front of scope is very dirty after seawatghing i sometimes use opticlean this is for cleaning camera lens, you paint it on with a brush let it dry then peal it off your len is as clean as when your scope was new, can be a bit tricky to use thow.
Recently, here in the US I spoke with a rep at Swarovski over the phone who suggested avoiding using the lens pen since it had caused problems for some users while cleaning Swarovski binos, problems serious enough for the repair department to be aware of them. I did not ask for any information in detail since it was enough warning for me to throw away my lens pen.

Secondly I find it amusing that different manufacturers suggest different ways of cleaning binos. There are different ways suggested to rid the lenses of dust (some suggest a camera lens brush, others dusting using crimped up lens paper, etc.), and different ways of preparing the lens before wiping with a lens cloth sometimes supplied by the bino manufacturer. Pentax, for example, suggests using their Clear View liquid, Swarovski suggests fogging the lenses with one's breath, and only using a liquid preparation if fogging is not sufficent, and so on. Since I own Swarovskis and find their method the simplest, I use it. In addition, I have found that liquid preparations sometimes leave a film around the edges. A bino salesperson told me to use a q-tip (for those who don't know what that is, it is a short stick with cotton wrapped around one end) for getting rid of this film. I have not had to try that yet. so can't report if it is effective.

[Bill Atwood]

Recently, here in the US I spoke with a rep at Swarovski over the phone who suggested avoiding using the lens pen since it had caused problems for some users while cleaning Swarovski binos, problems serious enough for the repair department to be aware of them. I did not ask for any information in detail since it was enough warning for me to throw away my lens pen.

In addition, I have found that liquid preparations sometimes leave a film around the edges. A bino salesperson told me to use a q-tip (for those who don't know what that is, it is a short stick with cotton wrapped around one end) for getting rid of this film. I have not had to try that yet. so can't report if it is effective.

The Lenspen has 2 cleaning elements, the brush on one end and the small felt pad on the other. I can't imagine the brush being the issue. I imagine the rubbing with the felt pad is what may cause any problems. The suggested method od use would grind any foreign material right into the glass.

There is a liquid pump spray called ROR (Residual Oil Remover) that does a great job of cleaning and doesn't leave any streaks or film, unlike every other liquid cleaner I've tried.

[John Traynor]

This is experience talking.

I recommend you do not use lens pens. I repeat, I recommend you do not use lens pens on your binocular optical coatings.

I'll say more about how I clean my delicate SE's eyepiece coatings later.

John

[Grousemore]

An interesting Thread and it's fair to say this is an issue with a lot of conflicting advice.

I've seen advice that says do not use any lens cleaning fluid and advice that microfibre cloths are the best method. Zeiss supply a cloth which looks like it may be microfibre and advise breathing on the lens and rubbing gently with the cloth.

All a bit confusing.

[Leif]

An interesting Thread and it's fair to say this is an issue with a lot of conflicting advice.

I've seen advice that says do not use any lens cleaning fluid and advice that microfibre cloths are the best method. Zeiss supply a cloth which looks like it may be microfibre and advise breathing on the lens and rubbing gently with the cloth.

All a bit confusing.

As mentioned before, perhaps in this thread, it partly depends on the nature of the coatings on the optics. Some if not all high end optics have hard coatings. Leica apply Quartz and Swarovski apply Swarodur, and these will help resist damage from heavy handed cleaning.

[iporali]

This is experience talking.

I recommend you do not use lens pens. I repeat, I recommend you do not use lens pens on your binocular optical coatings.
I have to agree - although I know several professional photographers who continuously use Lens Pens apparently satisfied. I am worried that the Lens Pen doesn't actually remove anything; the grease or the microparticles just get stuck to the tip or become mixed with the "replenishing" or cleaning material inside the cap.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I think the cleaning material is fine graphite paste. Anyway, if you wipe the "cleaned" surface with a soft tissue, something black comes off. To me this resembles the old photographers' trick to rub their lenses with a newspaper. The idea was that the fine scratches on the glass become filled with something "black" (=ink), which prevents the light from scattering. So, the Lens Pen may produce a beautifully clean-looking scratch-free surface, but it may have scratched the glass more than before.

I have one Lens Pen and I have not myself seen any damage produced by its use - these are just my thoughts about its cleaning principle.

Ilkka

[snowyowl]

yeah, i think they would be fine. i have some lens cleaner for spectacles- its in a small aerosol, but when i looked at the instructions for use, i noticed it is made by zeiss! so its probaly fine for optics, same as the chamois leather cloth i got for my specs. thats what i use anyway.
I'm not going to claim that this information is 100% accurate but I have been told that the coating on eye glasses is different than the coating on binos and scopes and that I should not use commercial cleaners on my precious birding optics. Leica recommends using a blower brush, water and a lint-free untreated cloth.
I clean my gear using a blower brush then a microfibre cloth dipped in plain water. I find that I need a really tiny amount of water. It seems to work well on my gear which, by the way, water-proof. In the field I blow on them to remove dust then use my breath and a microfibre cloth.

[Jonathan B.]

One can easily check how safe his/her cleaning method is. Using a simple 10x hand lens, examine the surface of a lens while it is pointed directly toward the sun. I have examined lenses this way many times, and on some I was appalled to see how much damage had been caused by lens pens or micro-fiber cloths. The dragging of debris across the surface can create dozens of minute scratches. Although it may take years for this damage to build up on a binocular lens to the point that it is detectable, it will gradually reduce contrast and, ultimately, resolution.

[Len Glasser]

Where I live it is often very dry and dusty, especially during the drought we have been in for the past six years. In the few riparian areas where I often bird, I find that in hot summer weather tiny droplets of moisture fall onto my eyepieces. In any case--hot and dry, cold and dry, or hot and humid--I find that I need to clean my binocular lenses as often as every other month.

I use a very soft lens brush and my breath to remove loose dust particles. I do all other cleaning with cotton, which I buy in bags of cotton balls. I find that the cleanliness of the cotton varies from brand to brand. I think that residues remain in cotton from processing and cleaning, and some brands tend to leave more residue on lenses than others. The cleanest brand I have found is under the label Western Family, which is a low-priced brand of all types of bathroom-cabinet items. In my experience, more expensive "sterilized" cottons leave more residue.

I wash my hands thoroughly before starting and work on a clean surface. While I work, I split each ball into two or three smaller wads. I NEVER apply any pressure from behind when touching the cotton to a lens. I start by dipping a ball in distilled water and squeezing out some of the excess. I mop the surface with the wet cotton, wiping only once and discarding the wad. I repeat this until I have wiped the entire surface. I then repeat this two or more times using good quality lens cleaning fluid. In the U.S., Sam's Club has been selling 8-ounce bottles of fluid in pairs for $5.99, which is a great buy. This certainly beats the typical 1.25-ounce bottle of Kodak or other cleaner at a photographic store for almost the same price.

After wiping with cleaning fluid a few times, and while the lens is still slightly damp, I take a clean, dry wad and wipe very lightly (again, without pressing on the cotton--instead using it like a mop) moving the wad in a circular motion until the fluid has evaporated. A few tiny swirls of purplish, hazy residue sometimes remain, regardless of the brand of fluid. These are most often around the edges of the lenses, but they are harmless and wipe off with the next cleaning. These swirls have no effect on optical performance, at least not as far as I can detect.

On occasion I have had tree sap or other tough deposits on lenses. For those I have used USP grade isopropyl alchohol, which can be purchased at almost any drug store. After cleaning with alcohol, I always clean again with lens fluid. Before using this type of alchohol, you might want to experiment to be sure it does not dissolve any plastics or other materials. I have never had to resort to a stronger solvent, and I would probably e-mail the manufacturer before using acetone or other solvents.

My method is not perfect, but I have never gotten even the tiniest scratch on a lens by using it. It does not take more than ten minutes to clean the lenses on a binocular.

The only scratches on my lenses have come from using micro-fiber lens cloths, which I quit using two years ago. I used to cringe every time I used one, even if I had just washed it. I no longer worry about scratching lens coatings.

Hello, one and all,
After reading all these comments, I was more confused than ever so I EMailed Swarovski for their suggestion and received the following reply this morning:
Subject: AW: Binocular Cleaning

Dear Mr. Glasser,

Thank you for your request. I just spoke to the Manager of our Service Department, Mr. Haider, and he confirmed to use the special cloth made of micro-fibres which is supplied to each product. But before cleaning the lenses, firstly remove larger particles or dust with an optical lens brush. For the subsequent cleaning we recommend breathing onto the lens surface and then cleaning it with a soft cloth. Further information can be found in the instruction booklet.

We hope this information is of help and wish you and your wife further great nature experiences with your EL binoculars.

Best regards,

Barbara Ehrenfried
Export Sales Assistant

Swarovski Optik KG
Swarovskistr. 70
A-6067 Absam, Austria
Tel.: +43 5223 511 6239
Fax: +43 5223 41860
mailto: Barbara.Ehrenfried@swarovskioptik.at
http://www.swarovskioptik.com

[John Traynor]

I find dust and most dirt is easily removed with a fine camel paintbrush. It's the oils and environmental films that are hard to remove and I find a bit of solvent is always required and, I think, recommended.

Breathing on a lens will deposit water and that's all the solvent you need in most situations. Breathe, lightly wipe and you're done. I've noticed no difference between a spotlessly cleaned lens and one that is cleaned using this method, assuming there is no major buildup.

The eyepiece coatings on the SE are a real challenge to clean. I've given up on obtaining a visually perfect cleaning and just acknowledge that if it looks pretty good across the surface, the lens will perform as expected.

I use Lenscrafters fiber towels that I moisten slightly with their lens cleaning fluid (alcohol, water, soap). I NEVER spray directly on the SE's lens. Careful application of pressure is the name of the game and the combination of fluid and towel easily removes most of the offending material. I clean up the final layer of film with a Lenscrafters moistened towelette, but only after I let it dry for a while. I found if I used it wet from the wrapper it left its own film behind. I wait until it's almost dry, wad it up, and gently touch up the lens. I also never press hard on the lens or allow my fingers to pollute the towel with oils.

The SE objectives are comparatively easy to clean and the lenses on my EO 6X32 are no problem at all. I think most roofs will clean up fairly easily once you develop a method. BTW, the bathroom mirror is a better place to practice than those expensive lenses!

Has anyone ever had their objectives or eyepieces recoated?

Have fun!

John

[romancitizen]

I went into Ace Optics last weekend to ask this very question. The advice given was

1) keep them clean in the first place !

2) when they are dirty, clean with a lens brush first, to remove loose particles

3) breath on the lens, then wipe with a good quality lens cloth (they recommend Opticron, but any good make would do). Do not rub too hard.

4) under NO circumstances, should you use lens cleaning fluid - it may damage the lens covering

[John Traynor]

I went into Ace Optics last weekend to ask this very question. The advice given was

1) keep them clean in the first place !

2) when they are dirty, clean with a lens brush first, to remove loose particles

3) breath on the lens, then wipe with a good quality lens cloth (they recommend Opticron, but any good make would do). Do not rub too hard.

4) under NO circumstances, should you use lens cleaning fluid - it may damage the lens covering

Sometimes it takes a solvent to soften and loosen up deposits, especially the inevitable dried spittle. Without a solvent you just end up moving the oils around. Zeiss sells fluid and wipes that they recommend for bins and scopes and, if I'm not mistaken, Zeiss knows something about optics.

John

[Curtis Croulet]

Every time I think about cleaning a lens, I ask myself which will bother me more: a smudge from an errant finger or a permanent scratch from unseen grit in a cloth or lens tissue. Simply resisting the urge to clean a lens has probably saved quite a few of my lenses over the years. When I finally can't stand it and yield to an inner need to clean a lens, I sweep it with a lens blower brush, then I exhale onto the lens and wipe the mosture carefully with the torn edge of a lens tissue.

[AUDIE]

keep your lens cloth in a small plastic bag,and wash it in LUX once a month or more if required.

[salty]

my new leica ultravids came with a lens cloth that i have found to be the best i have ever came across! - super soft, and works like a dream. but to be honest, i try to avoid cleaning my lens too much, a small soft brush can be handy at getting rid of dust and sand etc.

[AlanFrench]

Every time I think about cleaning a lens, I ask myself which will bother me more: a smudge from an errant finger or a permanent scratch from unseen grit in a cloth or lens tissue. Simply resisting the urge to clean a lens has probably saved quite a few of my lenses over the years. When I finally can't stand it and yield to an inner need to clean a lens, I sweep it with a lens blower brush, then I exhale onto the lens and wipe the mosture carefully with the torn edge of a lens tissue.

I understand fingerprints can eventually damage coatings, and always make an effort to remove them as soon as possible.

Clear skies, Alan

[Curtis Croulet]

Modern coatings?

[AlanFrench]

Modern coatings?

Hmmm. Not sure if fingerprints are less of a concern on modern coatings or not. I usually can am careful enough to avoid them, but a lot of my optics wind up in public venues and fingerprints sometimes appear.

I'll ask around.

Clear skies, Alan

[Leif]

Hmmm. Not sure if fingerprints are less of a concern on modern coatings or not. I usually can am careful enough to avoid them, but a lot of my optics wind up in public venues and fingerprints sometimes appear.

I'll ask around.

Clear skies, Alan

It probably depends on the manufacturer/instrument. All Leica optics are quartz coated which presumably means well protected, though the quartz may well be porous, allowing penetration of contaminants with time. Swarovski have Swarodur, and presumably Zeiss and Nikon have some form of protection (?). Certainly cheaper instruments may have coatings that are susceptible to attack by the acids in fingerprints.

So on the precautionary principle it's best not to touch the glass.

Leif

[etc]

RE: Cotton balls, I found out that they leave residue and tiny specs of cotton.

I've had good luck with microfiber cloth but you do have to wash it all the time, and before usage, you have to flush all the dirt/dust off the surface of the lense so it doesn't scratch the lense. I think this holds true no matter what material you use.

I know this from experience, I used a Swarovski cloth, which doesn't appear to be microfiber at all and left a nice long visible scratch on one of the lenses. I didn't rinse it before starting and worse, applied too little cleaning fluid.

[ikw101]

BTW, does anyone know the insect repellant (or chemical contained in it) that can damage the coatings on glass?
Andy

I've seen 50% Deet solution cause crazing on spectacles. I dread to think of what damage it could do to more expensive optics. If using it make sure all the relevant lenses are covered its amazing how the spray can drift.

[WmCCO-5]

1) Light cleaning: Camel hair brush and blower; followed by moist breath or distilled H2O and a surgical cotton ball if needed. John, your are correct this covers most cleaning requirements.

2)Tough cleaning (oil or grease): Do (1) above, then use Zeiss cleaning wipes/spray or isopropanol and surgical cotton balls ...this provides an excellent and safe cleaning job on multicoated optics. I have observed no residue, particulates or oil (remaining) following use.

The above procedures were recommended to me by both Zeiss and Leica.

I reserve micro-fiber cloths for reading glasses. With these cloths it is usually necessary to wash them periodically as they will hold debris/oils.





Bill

[ThoLa]

An interesting Thread and it's fair to say this is an issue with a lot of conflicting advice.

All a bit confusing.


Conclusion?
Much of it must be invalid.

No need for it.

1) Go here:
http://www.zeiss.de/micro


2) Go to Download PDF Brochure

3) Go to Upright Microscopes
Life Sciences
to the Brochures

4) The Clean Microscope
Recognizing dirt and removing it correctly


Download and follow the PROFESSIONAL ADVICE.


5) Forget the rest.


Tom

[bkrownd]

I've had good luck with microfiber cloth but you do have to wash it all the time, and before usage, you have to flush all the dirt/dust off the surface of the lense so it doesn't scratch the lense. I think this holds true no matter what material you use.


Yeah, there's nothing magic about "microfiber", though it may have the very desirable quality of being lint-free. It's the junk that gets dragged across the lens between the cloth and lens that does the damage.

One thought is that you can get lint-free swabs from companies that supply the clean-room industry. The nice thing about a swab is that you can gently and precisely attack problem spots in a way you can't do with a cloth. They can also get into corners and help with small optics like eyepeices and viewfinder lenses. The swabs come in a variety of sizes, down to micro-tiny.

Also, you can get more breath to condense on your optics for cleaning if you cool them down a bit. ;)

At work we're experimenting with cleaning lava/cinder dust off of EXTREMELY expensive optics using a chemical goo that gels and peels off the surface, which removes dust and stuck-on grit by encapsulating and lifting it.

[JDonley]

I use Kodak lens cleaning paper and am curious if this is an acceptable practice. I use the Kodak cleaning fluid.

Also have used the (sealed) pre-moistened lens cloths put out by Zeiss and wonder if anyone has a comment on these?

I will add my opinion to the consensus that less cleaning is better than frequent cleaning.


Don

[paulwfromtheden]

Wanted to pick up on this as it's an important subject...any reason why you cant just hold a vacuum cleaner just above the lense to remove particles of dust, sand etc?

[PYRTLE]

Have a look at the guide to cleaning lenses written by one of the guys from Cleyspy - it seems very thorough on front page under realignment/cleaning. www.cleyspy.co.uk

[NoSpringChicken]

Wanted to pick up on this as it's an important subject...any reason why you cant just hold a vacuum cleaner just above the lense to remove particles of dust, sand etc?
I would think the main risk is that if you hold it too close it can suddenly clamp itself onto the lens, causing damage. As long as it doesn't touch the lens I would imagine it's all right. Don't blame me if it all goes wrong, though.;)

Ron

[paulwfromtheden]

I would think the main risk is that if you hold it too close it can suddenly clamp itself onto the lens, causing damage. As long as it doesn't touch the lens I would imagine it's all right. Don't blame me if it all goes wrong, though.;)

Ron

I've actually developed a cone like apparatus that fits over the 'big end' of the bins and tapers to a smallish hole (for the end of the vacuum cleaner) to prevent such an accident. Perhaps I should patent it.
An accident is impossible at the small end due to the eye cups.

[SteveClifton]

Wanted to pick up on this as it's an important subject...any reason why you cant just hold a vacuum cleaner just above the lense to remove particles of dust, sand etc?

I've certainly done this, even used the lid of a Bic biro pen (taped to the wand of the vacuum with electricians tape to seal any gaps).This works a treat, and is easier to get into hard to reach areas so long as you're very careful. It also sometimes helps to 'tickle' the lens with a soft brush at the same time to remove any bits that are stuck on with grease or static. Following this, I then feel much happier to follow 'conventional' cleaning methods, without the worry of grinding bits of sand and dirt into the lens surface. Do it at your own risk though!

Another way I found which works very well is to apply a drop of Swarovski lens cleaning fluid to each lens, quickly work it across the surface with one of those cheap blower brushes (any soft, clean brush will do), then run the lens under a trickling tap to flush off the fluid and dirt. Repeat a couple of times, then on the last time tilt the lens over to a 45 degeee angle so any remaining water runs to one edge, then gently dab this off with a soft brush. I find this leaves the lens almost free from greasy marks, so it needs only a minimum of rubbing with a clean lens cloth to finish it off. Don't try this on optics that aren't waterproof though!

I realise that cleaning fluids are actually recommended to be applied to the lens cloth rather than the lens, so again, do this at your own risk.

I generally expect my optics to last a few years with reasonable care, and find that these two methods cause minimum 'wear' to the glass surfaces.
Too often I find, the advice is to blow on the lens, breath on it, then gently rub with a soft (microfibre) cloth. IMHO this offers no guarantee of removing minute particles of grit, which are then left on to be rubbed into the coatings.

[stabor]

Wanted to pick up on this as it's an important subject...any reason why you cant just hold a vacuum cleaner just above the lense to remove particles of dust, sand etc?

Isn't this a bit like driving from the kitchen to the bedroom?