350D to 30D.Final push required please.

[senatore]

I've been dithering for some time whether to upgrade from my 350D to a 30D and would love for anyone who has done this or is pleased with their 30D to give me a final push.I take birding pics and use a 400f5.6 lens.

I've got the cash and would like to take advantage of the Canon cash back which ends I think in a few weeks.I've got a seller in mind at what seems a good price for a new camera (not E-bay/Hong Kong) at £630 less the cash back but still would like a final push.Pretty pathetic Eh!!!!!

As an aside are the batteries and CF cards interchangeable between the 2 cameras?

Max.

[postcardcv]

As an aside are the batteries and CF cards interchangeable between the 2 cameras?

Hi Max, the CF cards that you use in the 350D will be fine in the 30D (just make sure you format them on first use), but the batteries will not be compatible (they're a different size).

Other than that I think you'll see some advantages to the 30D, it has a bigger bufer (big plus if shooting RAW), a better AF system, faster frame rate, spot metering and a larger LCD on the back. However only you can know if these improvements are enough to convince you to upgrade. A while ago I went through a similar process and ended up getting a 400D. It a much cheaper 'upgrade' and does have the larger buffer, bigger LCD and better AF system. I decided I could live without spot metering and 5fps, also all my accessories from the 350D (batteries, cable release and battery grip) work fine with the 400d but would not work with a 30D.

[Ian Latham]

Ask yourself this......are you pleased with the results from your current camera? Do you feel you have outgrown this camera? Can you afford the upgrade comfortably?

Your 350D has won awards, it is still a good entry level camera....how do you imagine that upgrading to a camera with the same amount of pixels is going to achieve much better results.

I own the Nikon equivalent of your DSLR....the D50 and have had it for about a year. I still have a great deal to learn about photography before I will invest in a top end camera. I have seen some of your good work
senatore and you dont need an expensive piece of equipment to improve,
just a little more patience.

Also there is a Canon 40D due out this year so if you are dead set on owning a 30D, then wait till the inevitable price drop.

PS Loved the nuthatch

[pe'rigin]

Max,

Tricky, very tricky, agree with the what the guys have suggested, the next camera upgrade up from the 30D is adding some serious money.

Why not go and do a test on both cameras and see how they feel, take your lens along and just rattle off some shots.

[Steve Babbs]

IMHO lens are much more important then the camera, keep with the 350D, and blow money on other equipment, or something else.

[Keith Reeder]

Broadly speaking I agree with all that's been said - but you won't get much in the way of improvement from a lens-buying point of view for the price you'd pay for the 30D.

Personally I love the 30D (so good I bought it twice!) but that's as much for ergonomic/handling reasons as anything.

That said, I like the fact that it has a magnesium body, 5fps, deeper buffer, more AF options, 100k actuation-rated shutter (we'll ignore the fact that I had one fail at 3k! ;))... it just "does it" for me.

If you can say that about the 350D, maybe you should stay put; otherwise... well the 30D is a fine camera and I'm as happy as a clam with mine.

Don't forget though that the "40D" will be along in a few months - that might press your buttons too.

[Tannin]

how do you imagine that upgrading to a camera with the same amount of pixels is going to achieve much better results.

Err ... there is a lot more to cameras than the number of pixels. I would upgrade to the 30D to get better controls, a better built, fell-better-in-the-hand body, spot meter, ISO in the viewfinder, much bigger buffer, more frames per second, better autofocus .... there are quite a few reasons.

But that's me. You may not feel it was worth it. Try one and see is the only answer, I think.

[senatore]

Thanks everyone for the advice.

The fact that the 40D may be coming out soon which will bring some good 30D offers out there worries me.I got caught out paying over the odds for some bins some years ago that were upgraded soon after I bought mine.

So it looks like I might continue dithering for a bit longer.

Max.

[Quacker]

Thanks everyone for the advice.

The fact that the 40D may be coming out soon which will bring some good 30D offers out there worries me.I got caught out paying over the odds for some bins some years ago that were upgraded soon after I bought mine.

So it looks like I might continue dithering for a bit longer.

Max.

40D is the way to go Max 8-P

[Roy C]

I have had the 350D for a couple of years and added a 30D about three months ago. I love the 350D but it is now kept just for landscapes as IMO the 30D is far better for birding ( buy the way, I am using the same lens as Max). I find spot metering very useful as well as the 5 fps and bigger buffer. The battery last at least twice as long but the biggest suprise for me was the AF - with a 1.4 converter (pins taped) and the 400mm f5.6 lens the 30D Auto focuses far better than the 350D. Another 'biggy' for the birder is that there is less noise at ISO 800 which is where I use it for handholding with a tc on board. If you took a couple of controlled shots in good light and from a tripod there would not be anything in it as far as IQ was concerned but as I say the 30D is a far better Camera for the birder IMO.

[Roy C]

how do you imagine that upgrading to a camera with the same amount of pixels is going to achieve much better results.

I have both and I can tell you that from a birders point of view you will get better results from the 30D (see my post above).

[postcardcv]

I have both and I can tell you that from a birders point of view you will get better results from the 30D (see my post above).

That's a very bold statement, I know that the 30D does have some benefits over the 350D, but with near identical IQ and ISO performance it's hard to claim that one will give better results.

[Roy C]

That's a very bold statement, I know that the 30D does have some benefits over the 350D, but with near identical IQ and ISO performance it's hard to claim that one will give better results.
I am only talking about bird photography for reasons that I stated in a previous post. I am still getting some great landscapes with the 350D.
I have taken over 40k of shots ( probably 75% birds) with the 350D and have taken about 2000 shots with the 30D and I am getting far better results. Maybe my 350D was duff but I got far more noise at ISO 800 than I do on the 30D.
I also found that a tc with the pins taped on the 350D was almost unusable for AF due to 'hunting' whereas the same combo on the 30D is far better IMO. You are probable right that a really good photographer could do just as well with the 350D but the fact that I am a novice (poor) photographer has probably swayed my opinion towards the 30D - for instance I find spot metering to be a real boom for me because I no longer have to do so much EV compensation - I now tend to keep it on 'spot' and fire away without bothering too much about exposure.
I am not knocking the 350D but I personally find the 30D better ( no, a lot better) for bird shots - others may disagree and I respect their opinions.

[DaisyG]

I have had the 350D for a couple of years and added a 30D about three months ago. I love the 350D but it is now kept just for landscapes as IMO the 30D is far better for birding ( buy the way, I am using the same lens as Max). I find spot metering very useful as well as the 5 fps and bigger buffer. The battery last at least twice as long but the biggest suprise for me was the AF - with a 1.4 converter (pins taped) and the 400mm f5.6 lens the 30D Auto focuses far better than the 350D. Another 'biggy' for the birder is that there is less noise at ISO 800 which is where I use it for handholding with a tc on board. If you took a couple of controlled shots in good light and from a tripod there would not be anything in it as far as IQ was concerned but as I say the 30D is a far better Camera for the birder IMO.
I have a 350D, 400mm f5.6 lens and 1.4 extender but am reluctant to use the extender because I lose AF. What do you mean by 'pins taped'?

I am also tempted to buy the 30D.

[Tannin]

The primary difference between the x0D cameras (20D, 30D) and the x00D cameras (350D, 400D) is in the controls. Just a matter of taste and convenience? No. The x0D units are not as wel laid out and it's harder to make the same adjustment quickly and accurately. For example, dialing in some EC on an x0D is one movement of your thumb, on the 400D it you have to take the camera away from your eye and do an awkward press with thumb and simultaneously roll with finger thing, meanwhile trying not to press any of the other buttons (which are too close to one another).

Meanwhile, the bird has flown.

There are other examples, but in the end, where time is critical (and in bird photograpgy it usually is) the x0D wins hands down.

Yep: my spare camera is a 400D and if my 20D lets me down one day I'll take a pretty decent bird shot with it, but I'll always reach for the 20D first if I have a choice.

I also am quite convinced that, overall, the 20D gives me better image quality. Not every shot, not every time, but on average the 20D produces more keepers. (I'm talking about general use stuff here, not so much about birds.) The 20D has more accurate exposure, and seems to be more forgiving if you are a fraction out.

I have never owned a 350D, though I've shot with them a little, and imagine that the IQ differences would not apply (as it is more-or-less the same sensor as the 20D/30D). However, the 350D has even more cumbersome controls than the 400D.

If it wasn't for the magic of the 400D dust buster, when my other 20D comes back with its new shutter, I's sell the 400D. As it is, I am torn as to which to use as my second (non-bird) camera. I'll probably wind up selling both and getting a 40D as backup to the 1D III I have on order. But first .... I have to let the credit card recover a bit!

[Tannin]

You may wish to draw your own conclusions about my hand-eye coordination skills from the number of typos in that post above!

In my defence, I blame the unfamiliar keyboard on this borrowed computer. Or possibly my lexdixia.

[postcardcv]

The primary difference between the x0D cameras (20D, 30D) and the x00D cameras (350D, 400D) is in the controls. Just a matter of taste and convenience? No. The x0D units are not as wel laid out and it's harder to make the same adjustment quickly and accurately. For example, dialing in some EC on an x0D is one movement of your thumb, on the 400D it you have to take the camera away from your eye and do an awkward press with thumb and simultaneously roll with finger thing, meanwhile trying not to press any of the other buttons (which are too close to one another).

Agian I feel the need to disagree... I think that you find the 20D/30D controls easier because you are far more familiar with these camera. I've never owned a 20D/30D, but have had 2x350Ds and a 400D and find the controls very easy to use. I can make most adjustments (AF mode, ISO, EC, metering) without moving from the viewfinder (no doubt because I am used to the camera).

[senatore]

Thanks again everyone for the advice.

I am now considering going for the 400D which postcardcv quite rightly says has a larger buffer,a bigger LCD and a better AF system than my 350D.

Also from the best prices I've seen an upgrade to a 400D will cost me £220 less than an upgrade to a 30D.The main things I will miss out on spot metering and 5fps which are very desirable but not worth the extra money to me.

If I go this route I can see in 12 months or so what the 30D and 40D situation is.

Max.

[gmax]

Agian I feel the need to disagree... I think that you find the 20D/30D controls easier because you are far more familiar with these camera. I've never owned a 20D/30D, but have had 2x350Ds and a 400D and find the controls very easy to use. I can make most adjustments (AF mode, ISO, EC, metering) without moving from the viewfinder (no doubt because I am used to the camera).

I agree Pete, you can easily do many things when you are used to a certain camera, but I can truly say that when I grab my 350D for the odd shot in certain circumstances, I find managing its controls much more cumbersome and slower than on my 20D, especially dialing EC (and I AM used to it!)
IQ wise, I can't see much difference between the two, only AF is a bit better (neater/faster) on the 20D (and I expect on the 30D as well)
Cheers,
Max

[Tannin]

Senatore, regardless of my disagreement with Postcardcv on the merits of the 350D/400D controls vs the 20D/30D/5D system, I can't see the point in upgrading from a 350D to a 400D. It's just not worth the money.

Let's look at the pros and cons:

For:
Better controls (but not much better, the 20D/30D still eats it)
Bigger buffer (but still only 3FPS)
Sensor shaker

Against:
A significant amount of money to spend

No difference either way:
Image quality

Net answer: unless the sensor cleaning matters to you, you are looking at paying out quite a few clamshells for (a) an improved control system and (b) a bit more speed. In Oz dollars, around $1100, minus whatever you sell the 350D for.

If you care about better controls and extra speed that much, then you will get a much bigger dose of both for the extra $700 between the 400D and the 30D. And if you don't care about those things so much, why spend anything? The 350D is an excellent camera, and produces great shots.

I think the main reason people want a 400D instead of a 30D is the extra 2MP. Do not let that enter into your considerations in any way. It gains you nothing, zip, nada. Not worth having, especially as it comes at the cost of reduced sensitivity and thus lower shutter speeds.

I own and use a 400D, and it's an excellent little camera, but my 20Ds are clearly superior in about 5 different ways, and inferior in only one way: they don't have a dust buster.

Which reminds me: I'm off up the bush after some birds first thing in the morning, and while the 400D is as right as ever, my 20D badly needs a sensor clean. I better get on with it.

[Ragna]

Bristol cameras have the 20D for £619 less the £65 back from Canon that £554 at this price i would have thought it no contest plus the rumor is Canon are to release a replacement for the 30D in July so prices may drop even more.Cant see any point in upgrading to the 400D with 30D prices this low.

[Roy C]

Bristol cameras have the 20D for £619 less the £65 .
Graham, I think you mean the 30D. I fully agree with you that at this price it is a steal.

[postcardcv]

I upgraded one of my 350Ds to a 400D earlier in the year and for me it was well worth the money spent. The larger buffer is a huge plus if you shoot in RAW, and the AF system is definitely better. As well as it being a cheaper camera all your 350D accessories will work with it so you'll save even more. When I made the change it cost me ~£75 to upgrade, and it would have been worth paying more for it.

But as others have said unless you're unhappy with your 350D why not hang on for a bit and see what the new Canon that replaces the 30D is like.

[Modular]

I personally Own a 400D and like a lot of said already it ain't worth the
upgrade from the 350D to the 400D as you don't get a whole lot more than
your 350D,
I also see that spending an extra £200 on top of the 400D for a 30D as a bigger waste of Money ...
Again not gaining a Whole lot more than the 350D,
I'd wait for the 40D as it may be a Bigger jump than the 400D and the 30D,
Also like SomeOne mentioned ... The 30D will come down in price when the
40D is launched,
Good luck,
John,

[Roy C]

I also see that spending an extra £200 on top of the 400D for a 30D as a bigger waste of Money ...
Again not gaining a Whole lot more than the 350D,

John,
I own both the 350D and the 30D and IMO as a birding camera the 30D is well worth an extra 2 or £300 . When I bought the 30D about three months ago I did not think it would be a lot different or better the the 350D - it was just that I wanted a second body as I was peeved off with changing lenses in the field. I have always defended the 350D to the hilt and still think it is a great camera but I can tell you I will never use it for birding again while I have a 30D. As far as I am concerned it was definitely not a waste of money, if I knew then what I know now I would have paid a lot more for the 30D than what I did. Until you have tried a Camera I do not think you can say that upgrading to it it is a waste of money. As far as The 400D is concened I have never used it so I could not make any comment.

[Modular]

I own both the 350D and the 30D and IMO as a birding camera the 30D is well worth an extra 2 or £300 . When I bought the 30D about three months ago I did not think it would be a lot different or better the the 350D - it was just that I wanted a second body as I was peeved off with changing lenses in the field. I have always defended the 350D to the hilt and still think it is a great camera but I can tell you I will never use it for birding again while I have a 30D. As far as I am concerned it was definitely not a waste of money, if I knew then what I know now I would have paid a lot more for the 30D than what I did. Until you have tried a Camera I do not think you can say that upgrading to it it is a waste of money. As far as The 400D is concened I have never used it so I could not make any comment.

My opinion's were based on the fact that the 40D was out soon to be
honest, If there was no 40D coming i would suggest the 30D,

As for not using your 350D again over your 30D for Birding i fully
understand as anything better and faster for Birding is obviously an
advantage even though result's for the 350D for Birding are excellent,

Just like SomeOne owning a 30D and buying a Mk3 ... You would'nt use
the 30D again ... You'd use the MkIII for Birding,
I still say that He would be best to wait ... The 40D is just around the
corner and to go and buy the 30D right now would in my Book's still be a
bigger waste of Money,
Take care,
John,

[Roy C]

My opinion's were based on the fact that the 40D was out soon to be
honest, If there was no 40D coming i would suggest the 30D,

As for not using your 350D again over your 30D for Birding i fully
understand as anything better and faster for Birding is obviously an
advantage even though result's for the 350D for Birding are excellent,

Just like SomeOne owning a 30D and buying a Mk3 ... You would'nt use
the 30D again ... You'd use the MkIII for Birding,
I still say that He would be best to wait ... The 40D is just around the
corner and to go and buy the 30D right now would in my Book's still be a
bigger waste of Money,
Take care,
John,

Yes I agree about waiting for the 40D John - think if I were upgrading now I would do the same. I waited several months before getting the 30D as everyone was saying the 40D was coming out in early spring but it never happened so I took the plunge.
One thing to bare in mind though is the cost, the 30D can be had for around £550 at the moment but I would not mind betting that the 40D will be pitched around the £800 mark (as the 30D was when it first came out).

Cheers
Roy

[Modular]

Yes I agree about waiting for the 40D John - think if I were upgrading now I would do the same. I waited several months before getting the 30D as everyone was saying the 40D was coming out in early spring but it never happened so I took the plunge.
One thing to bare in mind though is the cost, the 30D can be had for around £550 at the moment but I would not mind betting that the 40D will be pitched around the £800 mark (as the 30D was when it first came out).

Cheers
Roy

£550? ... To be honest with You i did'nt realise the 30D was that cheap,
I had for some reason nearly £700 but on looking around your right ...
With the £50 CashBack it is a good deal ... I was basically looking at
£350 for the 400D with Lens compared to a £700 30D Body ... I got the
400D and Lens for £350 at Tesco's ... Of all the place's to grab a
bargain eh lol,
I am tempted with the 30D myself ... But i've only owned the 400D for
just over a Month so it would'nt be a good idea to go spending ... Well
not just yet anyway lol,
One thing before i go ... I read your post some Time back on you using a
1.4 Tc ... Is it the DG 300 Pro?, If so have you tried it without the Pin's
taped?, ... I saw you had your's taped and was just curious,
I have the Kenko DG 300 Pro and i get AF with Two lense's ... The Canon
75-300 and the Sigma 170-500mm without tape over the Pin's ...
The Sigma will hunt in bad light but Today when the sun came out i was
getting full AF at 700mm which really suprised me, The Canon work's AF in
any Light with the converter,
I was just curious that's all lol,
Thank's and Take care,
John,

[Roy C]

£550? ... To be honest with You i did'nt realise the 30D was that cheap,
I had for some reason nearly £700 but on looking around your right ...
With the £50 CashBack it is a good deal ... I was basically looking at
£350 for the 400D with Lens compared to a £700 30D Body ... I got the
400D and Lens for £350 at Tesco's ... Of all the place's to grab a
bargain eh lol,
I am tempted with the 30D myself ... But i've only owned the 400D for
just over a Month so it would'nt be a good idea to go spending ... Well
not just yet anyway lol,
One thing before i go ... I read your post some Time back on you using a
1.4 Tc ... Is it the DG 300 Pro?, If so have you tried it without the Pin's
taped?, ... I saw you had your's taped and was just curious,
I have the Kenko DG 300 Pro and i get AF with Two lense's ... The Canon
75-300 and the Sigma 170-500mm without tape over the Pin's ...
The Sigma will hunt in bad light but Today when the sun came out i was
getting full AF at 700mm which really suprised me, The Canon work's AF in
any Light with the converter,
I was just curious that's all lol,
Thank's and Take care,
John,
John, Strange that you get AF without taping the pins as the Camera is not designed to AF at f8. I know that the cheaper Kenko/tamron converter will work without taping as it has not got the three pins that report back to the camera but the Kenko pro has all 11 pins as far as I know.
I have the Canon 1.4tc and I use it with the 400mm f5.6. To be honest I have not tried it without taping the pins - might try it sometime but to some extent it is irrelevent as to the pins being taped or not, the AF will still be the same as it is the Camera and not the lens that does the focussing. I did try the tc with the 350D with and without the tape and it was very poor and hunted a lot whereas with the 30D the tc has not come off for over a month now as AF is very good providing there is decent light, this is why I am of the opinion that the 30D AF sytem is better than the 350D.

[mike from ebbw]

I havent taped the pins on my 1.4x 300dg either.Both my Canon 75-300mm and my Sigma 135-400mm AF fine on my 300d.

[Modular]

I did'nt presume in any way that my Sigma would work ... I was told that
it would'nt work ... And to be honest the first thing you do when you get a
Tc is to try it lol ... And He was correct it hunted all round the place at
500mm = 700mm So straight away i took it off and tried it on the Canon ...
Which it worked perfectly,
So next Day in good Light i thought i'd try again ... by the Time i had
swapped Lenses from the Canon to the Sigma ... The Light had gone
cloudy ... So seens as the Lens was now on and i was outside with it ...
I switched it on and straight away flicked the AF on ... Zoomed it to
500mm and it focused but hunted constantly ... Then i realised i had left
it on "Sport's" for Flying shot's ... Have'nt mastered TV yet lol ... By this Time
the cloud had shifted giving some good Light ... I switched straight to AV
from Sports and it worked a treat ... 700mm and it was focusing ... The
Odd occasion it did Hunt and go out of focus but a few tap's on the
Shutter got it right,
Now in Bad light it does Hunt ... At mininum Zoom = 245mm it does'nt hunt
at all in bad light ... Work's fine,

You mentioned it not Working at F8 ... But i had my Camera set at F5 ... If
your saying the F number goe's up as it does ... It does'nt show on the
Camera and i used both Lens ... Full Zoom at F5 and it worked,
Strange like you say about the Pins ... I knew Mike never had to tape His
either ... That's the main reason i never taped the Three Pins to start with,
If i had'nt got AF ... I'd have taped the 3 Pins out of the 11,
Wonder if your's will work without tape?,
Thank's for getting back to me Roy,
Take care,
John,

[Roy C]

I did'nt presume in any way that my Sigma would work ... I was told that
it would'nt work ... And to be honest the first thing you do when you get a
Tc is to try it lol ... And He was correct it hunted all round the place at
500mm = 700mm So straight away i took it off and tried it on the Canon ...
Which it worked perfectly,
So next Day in good Light i thought i'd try again ... by the Time i had
swapped Lenses from the Canon to the Sigma ... The Light had gone
cloudy ... So seens as the Lens was now on and i was outside with it ...
I switched it on and straight away flicked the AF on ... Zoomed it to
500mm and it focused but hunted constantly ... Then i realised i had left
it on "Sport's" for Flying shot's ... Have'nt mastered TV yet lol ... By this Time
the cloud had shifted giving some good Light ... I switched straight to AV
from Sports and it worked a treat ... 700mm and it was focusing ... The
Odd occasion it did Hunt and go out of focus but a few tap's on the
Shutter got it right,
Now in Bad light it does Hunt ... At mininum Zoom = 245mm it does'nt hunt
at all in bad light ... Work's fine,

You mentioned it not Working at F8 ... But i had my Camera set at F5 ... If
your saying the F number goe's up as it does ... It does'nt show on the
Camera and i used both Lens ... Full Zoom at F5 and it worked,
Strange like you say about the Pins ... I knew Mike never had to tape His
either ... That's the main reason i never taped the Three Pins to start with,
If i had'nt got AF ... I'd have taped the 3 Pins out of the 11,
Wonder if your's will work without tape?,
Thank's for getting back to me Roy,
Take care,
John,
John, your sigma is f5-6.3. when you have it zoomed right out (500mm) it cannot be set at f5 as it is f6.3 at the long end. If you add a 1.4 tc that the camera can see then the fastest you could set the lens at 500mm end would be more than f8 and the Camera would refuse to AF.
Now if your aperture with the tc connected is still showing at f6.3 then the camera is not seeing the tc for some reason and it will attemp to AF.This is exactly the same as taping the pins, it is done to fool the camera into not knowing it is there. I guess in your case it is the lens that has not got the pins to tell if a tc is present or not. Even so you are still losing a stop of light with a 1.4tc and the aperture that you see is not the true apperture. If you ever try your tc on a Canon lens which is slower than f4 then you will need to tape the pins to acheive AF.
If I do not tape the pins on my 400mm f.6 lens it shows, correctly as f8 and the camera will not AF (it is only the Canon 1 series cameras that AF at f8).

[Adey Baker]

I've just bought a Kenko 1.4x 300G and it auto-focusses OK with my Sigma 400mm F5.6 lens, though it still reports the aperture set on the lens rather than one stop lower. It was rather dull yesterday so the lens was 'hunting' quite a bit - hopefully, it'll be a bit better in brighter, contrasty light.

Incidentally, lenses such as the 50-500mm, which have a maximum aperture of F6.3 at the long end are set to 'report' to the camera as F5.6 in Canon models in order to get round the way non-'1' series bodies refuse to focus below F5.6.

[Roy C]

I've just bought a Kenko 1.4x 300G and it auto-focusses OK with my Sigma 400mm F5.6 lens, though it still reports the aperture set on the lens rather than one stop lower. It was rather dull yesterday so the lens was 'hunting' quite a bit - hopefully, it'll be a bit better in brighter, contrasty light.

Incidentally, lenses such as the 50-500mm, which have a maximum aperture of F6.3 at the long end are set to 'report' to the camera as F5.6 in Canon models in order to get round the way non-'1' series bodies refuse to focus below F5.6.
Adey, your lens must not have got all 11 pins therefore it does not report the correct aperture back to the camera. In order to get the correct aperture showing both the converter and the lens must have the right pins. Of course this does not matter as far as metering goes because of TTL metering. The same applies to both John and Mike's lenses. I did not know that the f6.3 is set to report as f5.6 but it would be the same thing - if the camera knew the tc was there it would report f8 and the camera would not AF (on a non series 1 camera) no matter how good the light was.
I have three Canon lenses that have not got the reporting pins because Canon do not recommend that they be used with a tc - 50mm 1.8, 18-55 kit lens and the 17-40 f4. But my 70-200 f4 and 400mm f5.6 have both got all the reporting pins. The 70-200 is ok because a 1.4tc still only makes it f5.6 so the pins do not need to be taped but the 400mm would not AF unless I taped the pins. In the Canon range with a 1.4tc I think it is only the 400mm f5.6 and 100-400 zoom that requires the pins to be taped to AF (most of the others are f4 or faster to start with).

[senatore]

Thanks for all the advice again everyone BUT I am more in a dither than before.

All of you came up with some great points and I now think that uprading from the 350D to a 400D would be a mistake.I think that I will wait a while to see if the 40D comes out soon and if that is out of reach I'll see what the 30D prices have come down to.

Max.

[Adey Baker]

Adey, your lens must not have got all 11 pins therefore it does not report the correct aperture back to the camera.


None of my lenses, mainly Sigma, have 11 pins on the back. All have 8 (3 + 5) with 2 of the 3 'joined' together.

The converter has 11 pins at the front but 8 at the back with none of the 3 joined and the camera body (20D) has 8 also.

All very interesting to some people, no doubt, but whatever, the lenses all work correctly and by not 'adding-on' the extra stop the converter auto-focusses with lenses of F5.6 or faster.

Sorry that your thread's been hijacked somewhat, Max!