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E 520 - AF settings (1 Viewer)

Cristian Mihai

Cristian Mihai
I use S-AF, but reading the guide provided by Olympus I saw that are some other options (like C-AF). Is C-AF a better choice for bird photography?
Thank you for help.
 
I normally use S-AF but I have occasionally tried C-AF for fiight shots. It is useful if the bird is moving towards or away from you. You have to get the focus to lock onto the bird initially and then it will readjust the focus as the bird moves until you finally take the shot. I'm not sure, but I think I have got sharper results using S-AF but you have to take the shot the instant it focuses or the bird will have moved out of focus.

Incidentally, I always use single focus point now. I place it over the subject, half press the shutter and recompose the shot it necessary before pressing it all the way. I don't really like the multi point setting.

Ron
 
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I have finally got round to turning off the little confirmation 'beep' when the focusing point illuminates. I found it rather embarrassing in a hide when I kept refocusing on a bird as it moved. I know it would drive me crazy if it was someone else's camera. All sorted now. :t:

Ron
 
Thank for answers RAH and Ron.
Much appreciated tips, Ron. I also use now a single AF point. About the "beep" - Almost all my pics are not taken from a hide, so, for the moment, the "beep" it isn't a problem for me. And I'm a solitary birder (most of the time)... When I am not alone I take rather poor pics...
 
Cristian, the Oly bodies do not do very well on C-AF,, my E3 is dismal as I shoot a lot of basketball and it cannot stay focused on anyone running down the court,,

there has been considerable discussion over on the 4/3 forum about the cameras ability to track a moving object,, a single bird in the air is the best,,

http://forum.fourthirdsphoto.com/

I find using S-AF and continuous feathering of the shutter release button with single dot focus on small works best for me,, still have a few OOF but sure better than the 70% OOF with C-AF,,

agree on turning the beep off, did that the first day I had the camera,, the quieter the better,,

Derry
 
Thank you for your answer Derry. I think that the cameras ability to track a moving "target" is rather good. I took tens of pics with flying birds (usually gulls) and the results are acceptable. Birds were far away...
 

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Cristian, on a single bird the cameras do a fair job on C-AF, but if your trying to track fast cars or a group of bikers or multiple objects coming your way the cameras keeper rate is very low,, shooting from the side or at a 45 degree angle of movement is a lot different than head on with some speed,,

my last film camera was a Nikon F5 and it would continuously track about anything I ever wanted it too handle, not so with my E3,, I do not even try C-AF anymore as it has failed me so many times,, just stick with the S-AF and feather the release and it does fine,,

Derry
 
I have found one of the biggest problems with flight shots, using the 70-300 lens, is that, if you miss the bird when you press the button to focus, the camera tries to focus on the sky at infinity. The lens then has to go through its entire focusing cycle before it can focus again. This usually means I have lost the shot by then. It's really a problem with fast flying birds like terns. An additional problem is that you can't always find the bird again through the camera until the focus is roughly right so I usually point it at the ground a few metres away to reset it.

I understand some Canon lenses (and no doubt other makes) have a focus range limiter which should be useful. I suppose for the price of the 70-300 lens we have to expect a few compromises. I still think it is one of the great bargain lenses at the moment.

Nice first first flight photos, by the way, Cristian.

Ron
 
Ron, I agree with everything you said. I also use the trick of pointing at the ground to get the lens to reset somewhat. Forgetting about birds-in-flight shots for a minute, but just under normal conditions after the lens has gone on a hunting expedition, another way to get the lens to return to a fairly accurate focus is to just zoom out fully and then half-depress the shutter to focus. This will usually also reset it to a fairly reasonable focus point. Then you can zoom in again and it might behave itself. Of course, this is no good with BIF shots because even at lowest zoom there's nothing to focus on.
 
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