Digiscoping settings for P6000 (1 Viewer)

kristoffer

Used Register

• Dec 21, 2009

• #1

Hello,
I have found the recommended settings and settings for the P5100. However nothing for the very popular P6000. So what are the recommended settings and suggestions for the P6000? Like, should I use the noise reduction?

 

trco

Well-known member

• Dec 21, 2009

• #2

Normally I use this setup

ISO 64-100 (rarely 200)
JPEG (RAW is too slow, but I use it ocasionally if the bird is still)
Matrix metering
lowest aperture number
max. half of the optical zoom
Macro mode ON
VR reduction OFF

I use nothing like in camera sharpening, noise reduction or saturation - I believe specialized software can do better than camera.

 

Last edited: Dec 21, 2009

kristoffer

Used Register

• Dec 21, 2009

• #3

Thanks. I thought matrix metering was problematic but I was wrong then.

 

Bosque Bill

Active member

• Dec 24, 2009

• #4

I have good results with center-weighted metering and leave it in that position unless it is an unusual situation. Some folks use spot metering.

I adjust the aperture higher in good light to increase depth of field and have a better chance of getting the entire bird in sharp focus. I just have to make sure I don't slow the shutter down too much. It is a trade off.

If you use Macro mode, stay in the green. If you zoom too much the lens becomes less sharp.

 

kristoffer

Used Register

• Dec 24, 2009

• #5

Thanks for the replys. What about noise reduction, auto or NR? Not sure what to chose. Is it a choice between two different modes or on/off? And active d-lightning? Not something that matters for digiscoping I guess but I have heard that is good for social useage?

 

Bosque Bill

Active member

• Dec 24, 2009

• #6

kristoffer, you want NR off as it may reduce detail in the photo. You can later remove noise, selectively and more accurately in post processing with Photoshop, or equiv.

D-lighting sounded interesting, as an aid for a snapshot, but adds processing time and not good for a moving bird.

You will want to exercise care not to "blow out" the highlights, the whites, in your subject or you lose that detail forever. It is better to under-expose a little. Since I use center-weighted metering, I leave the exposure at -0.3 most of the time - changing that as conditions dictate.

I found it extremely helpful to practice on my feeder birds where I could take a few photos with one setting, and quickly download and check them on the computer. Then make a change and try again. This trial and error cycle helped me tune what I was doing.

 

kristoffer

Used Register

• Dec 24, 2009

• #7

Thanks Bill! How do I turn of the NR? I just select "auto"? Good sugggestion with feeder birds, magpies etc. Il try that.

 

trco

Well-known member

• Dec 24, 2009

• #8

I forgot about exposure - Bosque Bill is right -I usually underexpose too. Usually -0.3 to -0.7 but sometimes as much as -1.3 in harsh light or if I want special effect like silhouette.

@Bosque Bill - very nice images at your webpage. Do you use Hoodman HoodLoupe 3.0 only for manual focus?

 

kristoffer

Used Register

• Dec 30, 2009

• #9

I have noticed that some people prefer to use the mountain, infinite focus, and focus on the scope instead. Is that something you guys sometimes do too?

 

Bosque Bill

Active member

• Dec 30, 2009

• #10

Well, you have to focus the scope pretty much whichever mode you use for the camera. I tried a number of techniques on my feeder birds and determined I got the sharpest and most consistent shots using the so-called Green Flower position in Macro mode. So I've just saved that as U1 and always use that mode. Works for me.

 

trco

Well-known member

• Jan 1, 2010

• #11

Green macro mode works for me best too. I hardly use any other option - ass Bill said, none of the options won't eliminate scope focusing.