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Smardale Gill National Nature Reserve (1 Viewer)

HelenB

Opus Editor and Expat from Cumbria
Opus Editor
Smardale Gill National Nature Reserve, near Kirkby Stephen

Whenever I visit my family in Cumbria, I love to bird this beautiful scenic walk. This is a write up I did for my own website.


Smardale Gill National Nature Reserve

This nature reserve is about 100 acres in size and occupies a 3.3 mile stretch of the disused Tebay to Darlington railway line, and is located east of the Lake District, near Kirkby Stephen. It is maintained by the Cumbria Wildlife Trust and has been designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) due to the abundance of flora and fauna. Many wildflowers, including several species of orchids, some rare species of butterfly, red squirrels and lots of birdlife, can be found here.

The reserve is best accessed from the northern end, off the A685, about 1 mile south of Kirkby Stephen. Turn north at the sign for Smardale, and keep following signs to Smardale, crossing the Settle-Carlisle railway, followed by the disused railway, keeping left, until you come to a small parking area on the left, by an old railway bridge. Warning - this is a single lane road with very few passing places!!

The first section of the reserve is quite heavily wooded and the first birds we saw were an adult spotted flycatcher, feeding a fledgling, followed by black-billed magpies, wood pigeons and chaffinches. Willow warblers and wrens were singing everywhere and we had some good sightings. As we continued along the route of the old railway track the trees had been cleared on the right to encourage butterflies and we were able to see a Eurasian jay and common buzzard across the valley. In the trees around us we had great tits, coal tits and goldcrests, with a dunnock on the path.

As the path approaches the Smardale Gill Viaduct, the vista opens up and the reserve changes to open rolling countryside typical of the limestone geology of the area. The viaduct, spanning Scandal Beck, was built of local red sandstone in 1860, but after the railway line was closed in 1962, it fell into disrepair. By the late 1980's it had become dangerous, but was renovated in 1990 by the Northern Viaduct Trust. There were 2 Eurasian kestrels flying over Smardale Fell, and on a previous visit in 1998 we had watched a family of 4 kestrels practising their hunting skills on the fellside. Several common swifts were swooping about, 2 carrion crows were working the area and a grey heron flew up from Scandal Beck below.

In the trees beyond the viaduct we found a Eurasian treecreeper, common redstart, European robin and blackbird. Then a little further along there are some old limestone kilns and a disused quarry. Here a family of Eurasian jackdaws had a nested in an old tree growing high up on the quarry face. Barn swallows skimmed past us, and a family of 6 blue tits worked over the bushes around the derelict cottage nearby.

Rather than continue the whole length of the old railway, we doubled back at the intersection with the Coast to Coast Walk. Here we watched a European goldfinch feeding on thistle heads, and meadow pipits could be seen rising up calling "tissip" and doing their "parachute display". The path then descends to the drover's bridge over Scandal Beck, where we saw a pair each of grey and pied wagtails, flycatching over the beck, with lots of swifts and several house martins. Instead of following the path up and over the moor top and back to Smardale Hall, as we usually do, we followed the path just above Scandal Beck which brought us back to the Viaduct, where we could see 2 old nests on ledges under the arches - possibly ravens. En route we watched a northern wheatear, perched on the rocky outcrops of limestone, plus a mistle thrush feeding on the hillside.

We drove home via a minor road parallelling the A685 to Tebay - this takes you over Orton and Grange Scars to Sunbiggin Tarn, a small lake with a boggy, marshy area surrounding it. We stopped here to check out the area from the road, as there are No Trespassing signs around the tarn, and saw 12 more species. Oystercatcher, skylark, 14 greylag geese, 20 Eurasian coots, 12 northern lapwings, common redshank, 6 tufted ducks, little grebe, herring gull, Eurasian curlew, a nesting colony of black-headed gulls and a large flock of starlings.

42 species for the day

See my post below for a photo of the area.
 
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A great report Helen. It's a place I drive through on my way to and from the Lake District, but sounds like it will be well worth a stop of in the Summer. That's a good number of species for one day.
 
You certainly get around when you come home to visit your Mom! I have taken a copy of this birding spot as I can get home via Kirkby Stephen when I leave Keswick next month. A second chance to see Goldcrests!
 
Jay,
Hope you get to see the goldcrests. We saw our first one at Watendlath, past Ashness Bridge, in Oct of 97. It's been fun building up my UK lifelist every time we visit from the States. Although I was always interested in anything to do with Natural History, the birding bug only took root when we moved to Texas 10 years ago. Basically we needed something to do while we were outdoors in the cooler weather and this area being so flat and lacking in scenery, we turned to watching the very varied birdlife here.

If only a I can tick off that kingfisher next time I'm over there!!
 
They are supposed to flit up and down the River Greta in Keswick, although I haven't seen one there. I live ten miles from the Etherow valley/nature reserve and the River Goyt has a few pairs fishing various stretches of the river. Good luck next time you visit.
 
Photo of Smardale

Took this photo on my last trip over to visit, in Sept 02. This view is looking back in a north-easterly direction towards the old Smardale Gill Railway Viaduct. The river you can see is Scandal Beck and the rugged hillside on the left is composed of limestone. The photo was taken from just above Smardale Bridge (a drover's bridge) which takes the path back along the valley to the viaduct.
 

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I popped over to Smardale Gill on the 31st July. I have been meaning to go for a while.

It turned out to be a very nice day once the clouds had dispesed around 11.00am. I parked at the north end of the reserve and had the place to myself until lunchtime.

Birds were't that numerous but I was happy with the species I got -

Robin
Blackbird
Swift
Swallow
House Martin
Great Tit
Blue Tit
Jay
Wood Pigeon
Common Redstart
Buzzard
Magpie
Crow
Jackdaw
Rook
Raven
Willow Wabler
Song Thrush
Goldfinch
Kestrel
Chaffinch
Nuthatch
Wren
Mallard

Best thing about the day though and the reason I went was for the butterflies. The reserve is one of only a few sites in England where the Scotch Argus can be found. I thought I'd be struggling to find them but as it turns out there were loads of them - I gave in counting them at 150! Best place for them was around the old lime kilns (for birds as well) where they were so concentrated they were even landing on me. Other species there were Dark green Fritillary, Common Blue, Meadow Brown, Green veined White, Small Tortoiseshell and Northen Argus just two of them and looking very tatty compared to the Scotch Argus.

Dark green Fritillary

Scotch Argus

Common Blues
 

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HelenB said:
Whenever I visit my family in Cumbria, I love to bird this beautiful scenic walk. This is a write up I did for a trip report to eventually go on my website.


Smardale Gill National Nature Reserve...
A fine read, Helen. We have friends near to this area and must make the trip soon. Your descriptions make it all the more enticing.

Good to see your use of lower case for the bird names, too - have you seen the thread on capital letters? (-;
 
Ian,
Glad you finally got there and that you saw the butterflies you wanted. I don't think I've seen the Scotch Argus, but will have to look at the photos we took the last time, as I never did ID all of them.

Steve,
Thank you for the nice comments. Funny you should mention the lower case versus capitalization, as I usually do capitalize my bird names, but in this report I didn't. I'll go and find the thread you mentioned - thanks.
 
Ah-ha, when you find the thread, Helen, don't be convinced by the other arguments. You did it right this time.


(-;
 
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