• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Micro Four-Thirds (2 Viewers)

What I like with the evf is that I'm able to zoom/enlarge the focus area (focus assist, I think it's called) and it's very helpful with the scope. It's a small camera though, and some are not bothered by it. The good thing is that you have the option of a two-way grip. The bad is that the grip is somewhat expensive. There are third party grips that are cheaper, but the original grip let you have two batteries and works in portrait mode. Eventually I'll get one.

The E-7 (or E-5 successor, since no name has yet been revealed) is yet a rumour http://www.43rumors.com/ft4-trusted-source-e-5-successor-coming-for-sure/#comments

but several indications tells that it strongly seems to be a release for october/november of a 4/3s body and a om-d pro model. In time we'll see if it's true.
 
Hi Guys,

I like my OM-D quite a bit. It is small, light weight and well made. IQ is very good and focus is lightling quick on stationary objects (but so-so in BIF).

I like the EVF better than the OVF on my Canon 50D. Yes there is a small delay after the picture is taken but having a fast responsive live view not affected by outside light is very nice. For manual focus, I prefer the mock focus peaking function to the 10X zoom view when using a long lens because it vibrates too much, even with a stable camera and IS on.

One function I like a lot is touching the LCD to focus on that spot and instantly take the picture. Very nice !

What I don't like is the way focusing is implemented on this camera. It is the camera that decides where to focus, not the user. I agree that it works fine most of the time but there are occasions where it is a nightmare. Manual focus is mandatory to take a picture of a bird in branches as the camera will always focus on a branch in front of the bird. I really miss the ability to be able to focus on a small spot, like my 50D did

I also miss a prime long lens. The Panasonic 100-300mm is nice but not as sharp as my Canon 300mm with the 1.4X TC. The Oly 75-300mm is not better. There are no other choices.

Regards
J
 
I also miss a prime long lens. The Panasonic 100-300mm is nice but not as sharp as my Canon 300mm with the 1.4X TC. The Oly 75-300mm is not better. There are no other choices.

Regards
J

There is this option: http://www.tokinalens.com/tokina/products/other/reflex300mmf63mfmacro/ A fair way short of the ideal lens we're looking for, but at least it shows they're trying to provide something that matches the benefits of the M4/3rds system. Manual focus and those tell-tale mirror lens out-of-focus highlights are the downsides (and I'm not sure that it has the highest image quality) but the size and weight (plus low cost) are in its favour. It also focusses close at 0.8m for a 1:2 macro ratio as well.

Somewhere there'll be the ideal compromise between focal length and maximum aperture that gives us plenty of reach without destroying the size/weight advantages of the system. Perhaps a close-focussing 350mm F6.3, made of high quality plastic with a 'collapsible' construction for ease of transportation, opening out to a lens long enough to hand-hold comfortably and with the provision of a quick-fitting tripod mount for a steadier set-up.

I've finally 'bitten the bullet' and sent for an OM-D EM5, initially with the 15-50mm and I'll probably get the Panasonic 100-300mm though I've also ordered the OM adapter to fit my old 35mm film camera lenses - I've got the older Sigma 400mm F5.6 Apo in OM-fit which is a good lens and quite a bit smaller and lighter than the similar spec 400mm Apo/Macro HSM that I've been using on my Canon DSLRs. I love this set-up but I'm not getting any younger and they can be a bit heavy to carry around all day - especially when on holiday in warmer climes!
 
There is this option: http://www.tokinalens.com/tokina/products/other/reflex300mmf63mfmacro/ A fair way short of the ideal lens we're looking for, but at least it shows they're trying to provide something that matches the benefits of the M4/3rds system.

Have you ever tried a mirror lens ???? I have and, believe me, stay away ! They have been available for years and, as a token of their quality, look how many used ones are available for peanuts on eBay.

Regards
Jules
 
Mirror lenses are basically crap. Cheep, light, compact etc etc, BUT.. horrible bokeh (rings) bad contrast...etc etc. Only good thing is they have no CA.
 
Have you ever tried a mirror lens ???? I have and, believe me, stay away ! They have been available for years and, as a token of their quality, look how many used ones are available for peanuts on eBay.

Regards
Jules

Sorry, Jules. My use of 'British understatement' obviously went over your head - 'a fair way short of ideal' means exactly what you and Dan C Licks are saying! But I was replying to your statement that 'there are no other choices.'

And, yes, I have indeed tried a mirror lens, though I only used an Olympus 500mm F8 version that belonged to a friend of mine (I eventually sold him my Zuiko 300mm F4.5 to replace his 500mm when he got rid of it - and I replaced that 300mm lens with the Sigma 400mm refered to in my previous post).

My EM-5 arrived safely today - it's clear that I'll have to spend a bit of time with the instruction manual in order to set it up to my needs and familiarise myself with it. What a shame that they've included a thick book which only has the basic instructions (in 28 languages!) but the detailed instructions are on the CD which can only be read on a computer :C This may be OK with a cheap compact camera where many users will only use the full program mode, but with a full-spec enthusiasts' model costing over £1000 this is totally out of order!
 
My EM-5 arrived safely today - it's clear that I'll have to spend a bit of time with the instruction manual in order to set it up to my needs and familiarise myself with it. What a shame that they've included a thick book which only has the basic instructions (in 28 languages!) but the detailed instructions are on the CD which can only be read on a computer :C This may be OK with a cheap compact camera where many users will only use the full program mode, but with a full-spec enthusiasts' model costing over £1000 this is totally out of order!
Hi Adey

Below are links to articles you may find useful and guiding you in customizing the EM-5.
http://www.ayton.id.au/wiki/doku.php?id=photo:eek:lympusem5_settings
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/9115179666/user-guide-getting-the-most-out-of-the-olympus-e-m5#UI3

/Tord
 

Many thanks for those links,Tord. I'm just going to install the CD onto my computer now, so those links will be useful when I've read through the instruction book.

I've also got the rather pleasant task of choosing which 'free' accessory I'd like for my EM-5. There's a special offer on with all purchases of this camera until the end of this month. I can either have the 2 part battery grip plus spare battery or the 45mm F1.8 lens plus spare battery.

With the Olympus alone I could soon get used to the small size of the camera, but I'll still retain my Canon system, so swapping from one to another could mean the battery grip would be the best choice - though I have bought the Olympus mainly for those occasions (holidays, etc.) when the small size is most useful.

On the other hand, the kit lens that came with the camera has a maximum aperture of F6.3 at the long end, and the compact 45mm F1.8 lens does have a reputation as being one of the sharpest lenses in the M4/3rds system.

Whichever, the spare battery would have been an almost essential purchase anyway, so that's £60 saved towards that 'ideal' telephoto lens, whenever it comes out!
 
Many thanks for those links,Tord. I'm just going to install the CD onto my computer now, so those links will be useful when I've read through the instruction book.

Adey,

I strongly suggest you read the dPreview article suggested by Tord BEFORE you read the manual. It will make your life much easier.

Enjoy
Jules
 
Adey,

I strongly suggest you read the dPreview article suggested by Tord BEFORE you read the manual. It will make your life much easier.

Enjoy
Jules

Thanks, Jules. I see what you mean - a quick scroll through the whole book shows an awful lot of unneccessary stuff to sift through before getting to what's really needed!

Incidentally, as this thread was originally about M4/3rds and 'scopes, I have a Leica 77mm Apo scope with both the 800mm photo adapter and digiscoping kit so I'll be giving them both a try out when I'm familiar with the camera (and when we get some decent weather!). I've never fully used the photo adapter as conventional-sized SLRs were always a bit too large to perch on the end of the lens (I have the angled version of the scope) so the EM-5 may prove better-balanced.
 
Thanks, Jules. I see what you mean - a quick scroll through the whole book shows an awful lot of unneccessary stuff to sift through before getting to what's really needed!

Incidentally, as this thread was originally about M4/3rds and 'scopes, I have a Leica 77mm Apo scope with both the 800mm photo adapter and digiscoping kit so I'll be giving them both a try out when I'm familiar with the camera (and when we get some decent weather!). I've never fully used the photo adapter as conventional-sized SLRs were always a bit too large to perch on the end of the lens (I have the angled version of the scope) so the EM-5 may prove better-balanced.
Hi Adey,
Before I "took the plunge" I did some DSLR digiscoping using my E-620 on a Nikon ED82A, a contender to the Leica 77, using a relatively cheap (now discontinued) 7468 adapter from Nikon, turning the scope into a 1000mm F/11.8 lens. The E-620 is lightweight so I managed to get decent balance but focusing through the optical viewfinder was a challenge at F/11.8. When focus was right the results were good, close to the SW80 + 2X TC. I found the angled eyepiece being both a curse (when locating and following a subject not at horizon level) and a blessing (when composing pictures from a low perspective). So I would say the Nikon scope is useful for waders/ducks/grebes/herons...

I will give it a new try with EM-5 (I have one underway), I have a feeling the EVF could be a great asset. I will keep you updated, but it will probably have to wait a month or more, when the migrants are back. (A snowstorm is expected tonight).

/Tord
 
Omd E-m5

My OMD and adapter was delivered the other day.

A very first and short field test tells me it is a very nice camera and capable of delivering great results. I found the EVF and magnification very useful when shooting with the scope.

Something strange happened though when I mounted it on the scope using my adapter ring that has an AF confirm chip. First I took some test pictures with 40-150 Zuiko 4/3 lens. Next I mounted it on the scope. The chip was programmed to deliver F/7.5, 600mm EXIF data. When I took the first Picture I got a black frame and black viewfinder. It took a few seconds for the camera to return to normal operational mode but then the viewfinder showed F2.8, 50mm (default value). I re-programmed the chip with a E620 and repeated the procedure, got same result. The strange thing is that the EXIF data says I am using a 40-150 mm lens... probably the camera has memorized this somehow.

I guess I should remove or tape the AF chip.
 
The strange thing is that the EXIF data says I am using a 40-150 mm lens... probably the camera has memorized this somehow.

Yes, I noted that myself the other day - that the 40-150mm lens is used, in the exif. (have one too). Don't really care though... :)
Funny thing is that the 600mm is registered as 1mm lens up to 65500mm lens and some others in between...
 
More on the EM-5 subject and AF chip.
Yesterday the camera went crazy. I got mostly black frames, some severely underexposed and a few good ones (regardless of exposure mode). After I started the camera again with a m4/3 lens mounted the problem disappeared.

I guess I need to tape the chip.

/Tord
 
Another feature I like with the E-M5 is the ability to expose manually, adjusting shutter speed and get the feedback in the EVF. Really useful when photographing contrast rich subjects.

What also would be nice is to program one of the two dials to adjust ISO, as an alternative/complement to adjusting shutter speed. Not sure if this is possible, will have to study the user manual.

/Tord
 
Another feature I like with the E-M5 is the ability to expose manually, adjusting shutter speed and get the feedback in the EVF. Really useful when photographing contrast rich subjects.

What also would be nice is to program one of the two dials to adjust ISO, as an alternative/complement to adjusting shutter speed. Not sure if this is possible, will have to study the user manual.

/Tord

Hi Tord,

There are many ways to setup the OM-D to change ISO but I don't think you can permanently assign a dial to it. Even if you could, I'm not sure you would want to do it because these 2 dials are used by quite a few functions and it may not be a good idea to change their behavior.

The method I prefer is through the Super Control Panel. Push OK to get it, highlight the ISO box and change the value with the sub dial (the one under the shutter button). After you have done it once, it remembers until you change the highlighted box so you only have to touch OK and change the ISO value with the sub-dial. Quick and easy and you don't have to assign a button to the function.

You will quickly get used to finding the OK button without looking and you will be able to change ISO without taking your eye from the viewfinder.
 
In the process of getting used to the EM-5 I have found more useful features for digiscoping.

Shooting in M mode while having exposure feedback in the viewfinder/display is really useful. (This is the mode where I would have liked to be able to assign one of the dials to control ISO).

Another nice feature is programming the F2 button for magnification. This feature could be combined with firing the shutter by touching the panel in order to strongly reduce shake blur caused by holding the camera body. The touch function is so sensitive that you do not need to actually touch the display.
 
Underexposed, or totally black frames?

Hi

When using the E-M5 on my scope with fixed aperture I have started to get a strange behavior.

The first frame is usually either totally black or severely underexposed (-3EV or so). If I take additional frames shortly after the first one I get the following:

The second frame is underexposed as well, but not as bad as the first one (I would say about -1.5 EV). Sometimes it is correctly exposed, though.
The third frame and beyond are usually correctly exposed.

For reference: The camera shows the same behavior using both A and M exposure modes. The camera reports F/0.0 and the focal length is empty (I guess that is what happens when no lens information is reported).

Anyone experienced similar behavior?

/Tord
 
For reference: The camera shows the same behavior using both A and M exposure modes. The camera reports F/0.0 and the focal length is empty (I guess that is what happens when no lens information is reported).

Anyone experienced similar behavior?

/Tord

In my experience (E-3/E-M5) the camera reports all sorts of F/values and focal lenghts - and I guess it has to do with the adapter/chip one has. But I'm not sure. However, I never had the F value of 0.0. To me with the E-m5, it ranges between f/4.0 and f/6.6. But the only practical issue from this -to me - is that I have to adjust exposure compensation accordingly.

In other words, the behaviuor of the E-M5 is not different than with my E-3 in regard to how it interprets the f value and focal lenghts. The upside with the E-M5 of course is that I see what my changes does in the EVF.

And, no, I have not experienced the underexposed behaviour.
I might wonder if getting rid of the AF-chip alltogether would change this behaviour. (and other)
 
In my experience (E-3/E-M5) the camera reports all sorts of F/values and focal lenghts - and I guess it has to do with the adapter/chip one has.
...// snipped
Hi Carlos,
I forgot to mention that, already before coming across the issue with black/underexposed frames, I had removed the AF confirm chip when using with EM-5 since I believe it was the cause of weird behavior and since it was reprogrammed by the EM-5 camera anyway without me asking for it, it was kind of useless. And the EVF + magnification is a better solution anyway.

I went out for a photo session yesterday evening, using A mode. Out of about 50 frames: 1 slightly underxposed about -0.5 EV, about 20 underexposed about -1.5 EV, 5 severely underexposed -3EV or worse and about 20 black frames. Exposure times were in the range 1/1000 to 1/1600 s which does not make sense. Looking at good results from previous sessions in similar light conditions I was shooting at typically 1/400. So something is wrong, I just don't get what it is. The exposure us OK with a 12-50 lens.

So I was wondering if the F/0.0 could be the source of errors and leading to unpredictable results. (I would have expected the camera to report -.- or "unknown", but not 0.0 which is not possible.)

I updated the FW last night to 1.6, maybe that will help. Will test again today

Do you know if there a way to reset the camera to factory settings?

Out of curiosity - what light measuring are you using? Evaluative, centre weighted, spot?

/Tord
 
Warning! This thread is more than 7 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top