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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

'Dandelion chips' (1 Viewer)

8-P
I have come up with a way of installing Dandelion chips into AF extension tubes that has more firm fixing and support. You need some AF tubes but these are mainly sold in sets of three. You can use any of the tubes, the method is the same. Also using this method you can mark the positions for the chip using the original pass through contacts. The chips are exactly the same thickness as the contact block so they will go in the right amount of protrusion.

I would suggest these tubes as they are the ones I have used.
Hi thornlv

Thank you for the instructional, I have book marked it. I am intrigued by your mod. Are you going to use this with your new 006 f4?

Please, before you sell the scope will you post some pics taken with them to compare?

I have serious long lens envy 8-P drool.

Regards

Jaco
 
Scopes already gone, but I still have pics taken with it. Yes I use the 12mm ext I have made on the 600mm F4 (even though I can set Non CPU data on the D7K and get rangefinder focus confirm), this gives me focus trap and closer MFD - but infinity is shortened. I am plucking up courage to change the F-Mount plate on the 600 to have normal MFD and Infinity.

Gulp
 
Scopes already gone, but I still have pics taken with it. Yes I use the 12mm ext I have made on the 600mm F4 (even though I can set Non CPU data on the D7K and get rangefinder focus confirm), this gives me focus trap and closer MFD - but infinity is shortened. I am plucking up courage to change the F-Mount plate on the 600 to have normal MFD and Infinity.

Gulp

Indeed it takes plenty of courage to meddle with such an expensive toy.
 
Scopes already gone, but I still have pics taken with it. Yes I use the 12mm ext I have made on the 600mm F4 (even though I can set Non CPU data on the D7K and get rangefinder focus confirm), this gives me focus trap and closer MFD - but infinity is shortened. I am plucking up courage to change the F-Mount plate on the 600 to have normal MFD and Infinity.

Gulp

Hi thornlv

Double GULP!

Here's a discussion on the use of MF lenses on your brand camera. Maybe some of the information can be of help in your situation?

http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=37189

Hope it helps.

Regards

Jaco
 
In my reply to Aegea, above, I describe a method to manual focus. Try this with your focus confirm chip and see how it works.

I tried that method this evening with a test chart at about 30 feet, and it really does seem to work. Based on a rather limited sample, the focus error went down by about 30%. Great tip, thanks!
 
I tried that method this evening with a test chart at about 30 feet, and it really does seem to work. Based on a rather limited sample, the focus error went down by about 30%. Great tip, thanks!

Hi Aegea

Glad I could help. Any further improvement?

Subsequent to my previous advice, I have gleaned the following information regarding focusing with the chip:

"Switching of focus mode between AF and MF: Command F9 - this option is the same as [the] AF/MF selection switch on an AF lens. Please note in the MF mode, accuracy of focus confirmation depends on the direction which the focus ring is turned."

I suggest you check the programming on the chip and change it to AF - if MF is selected.

Regards

Jaco
 
Hi Jaco,

I will try that,it's interesting to find confirmation that the direction of rotation affects accuracy. I suspect AF mode may prevent the shutter from firing unless focus confirmation is achieved - the camera waiting for the AF to do its thing. This might be an issue in poor light conditions, I guess. Have to experiment and see.

John
 
Hi Jaco,

I will try that,it's interesting to find confirmation that the direction of rotation affects accuracy. I suspect AF mode may prevent the shutter from firing unless focus confirmation is achieved - the camera waiting for the AF to do its thing. This might be an issue in poor light conditions, I guess. Have to experiment and see.

John

Hello John

No need to experiment. I can confirm that in AF mode - with either the aperture smaller than f/8 (eg. a TC added) and/or poor light, the shutter will lock up. I suppose this is determined by the in-camera sensors and electronics taking into account the measured light level? I tried mine today with a 2X TC, late in the afternoon with the sun just above the horizon (there was sufficient light to still discern colours and objects with my bad eyes) and no joy. So no amount of on-chip tom foolery will bypass that one.

With AF Mode set on the chip, One Shot Focus selected on camera (to get focus confirmation on Canon) and you do not get focus confirmation and shutter refusing to fire, one has to go to AI Servo Mode (used for focus tracking on Canon) to get the shutter to fire. I suppose that you may then just stay in MF mode anyway.

I think I shall spare myself the aggravation of fiddling with these things and rely on the old eyes.

However, I have to say, that when used with the scope only, in good light, these things are reliable. I had to dial in about -3 correction for back focusing on mine and now it is quite fine.

For what it is worth: when using manual focus with the chip, I find that focusing from out- to- in provides better results than in- to- out focusing.

Another disconcerting issue that I have read about is that when the camera nods of or if you switch it off with the chipped adapter engaged, you lose all the programmed info. I am not sure that the current version (v. 4) is affected by this malady, but will check mine out tomorrow (the article referred to v. 3 of the chip).

So a bit more work to do.

Regards

Jaco
 
Hi tbc and Aegea

I did some more work with my Dandelion chip.

When programming the aperture to f/6.3 the chip defaults to MF mode on the Canon 60D.

When programming the aperture to f/5.6 the chip defaults to AF mode on the 60D.

In AF mode you can focus either in-to-out or out-to-in, it makes no difference to the result. I forgot to try it in MF mode.

With the Focus Correction set to 09 (neutral) I experienced severe back focus.

Attached are some photos of the effects of the correction values.

1. Value 01 = severe front focus.

2. Value 09 = neutral - but severe back focus.

3. Value 05 = front focus.

4. Value 06 = the best compromise I think.

Regards

Jaco
 

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Hi Jaco,

For my case, after the first programming of the chip and testing for front / back focus, I tried to re-enter programming mode as instructed to adjust but it just wouldn't go to programming mode. You guys have such issues? I'll try to post the shots but just couldn't pinpoint whether front or back focus.

I've also tried following Thornlv's footstep of getting the AF extension tubes to install the chip but the fit with my T-adapter was bad, easily 0.5 to 1mm clearance and was rattling. It's from Kenko with Nikon mount (12mm). The current chip on T-adapter has dropped off umpteen times when in the field and its getting me hot :-@ and seriously considering the Nikkor 600 F4. Need approval from my minister of Finance though.

tbc
 
Hi Jaco,

For my case, after the first programming of the chip and testing for front / back focus, I tried to re-enter programming mode as instructed to adjust but it just wouldn't go to programming mode. You guys have such issues? I'll try to post the shots but just couldn't pinpoint whether front or back focus.

I've also tried following Thornlv's footstep of getting the AF extension tubes to install the chip but the fit with my T-adapter was bad, easily 0.5 to 1mm clearance and was rattling. It's from Kenko with Nikon mount (12mm). The current chip on T-adapter has dropped off umpteen times when in the field and its getting me hot :-@ and seriously considering the Nikkor 600 F4. Need approval from my minister of Finance though.

tbc

Hi tbc

On problems entering programming mode:

Possible that you have MLU enabled? I wasted a lot of time and nearly gave up - until I disabled MLU.

Also check that you are setting exposure to 13 seconds - not to 1/13 as I have done.

I am not sure of the Nikon setting up procedures. For Canon there is an alternative way to get into programming mode (if the prescribed method doesn't work):

1. Select Manual, SS 13sec, AI Servo (AI Servo will not lock the shutter) as opposed to One Shot.

2. Get focus confirm and disengage the camera/adapter: aperture = 0.0

3. Switch off the camera.

4. Switch on the camera and immediately half press the shutter button.

5. Engage the adapter/camera (still doing the half press thing).

6. The moment the aperture changes to that which you have set or the default value of 1.4, take the shot at 13 sec.

7. Enter Av mode to check that you are in programming mode (aperture ranges from 3.5 to 11)

I am not familiar with your camera's nomenclature so I hope you can get by with the above terminology.

As far as the mounting of the chip goes:

Mine is still holding on. Did you use the little plastic support bracket when you installed the chip? Can't see the installation lasting without it.

Also, use some very fine emery cloth/sand paper to prep the area on the adapter (just lightly scoring the anodising/chrome finish for better grip) and then clean it with methanol. I prepared the chip and bracket the same way before glueing them together first.

Use good quality plastic epoxy (not quick drying) to glue the chip to the support bracket. Slower drying glue will allow you to fit the chip plus bracket to the adapter and make alterations so it fits properly. Once you are satisfied that everything is square, leave it for an hour or so to dry properly.

I used "Super Glue" to then mount the already assembled chip and bracket to the adapter. Bob's your uncle - or mine :)

Nerve wracking when you have sausages for fingers.

Hope you find some inspiration amongst all this rambling.

Regards

Jaco
 
My chips have different instructions for entering program mode, make three shots in sequence:

- 1 sec
- 5 sec or 6 sec
- 1 sec

Mine are older, maybe the programming on newer ones has changed.

As far as attaching the chip,I pretty much do as Jaco says, except I use 1-hour epoxy for everything. I also clean everything with alcohol and wear rubber gloves to keep skin oils off the contact surfaces - absolute cleanliness is important. One time I made an alignment error, I forced it and it crunched the chip before the glue let go.
 
JvdM,

I got my chips from jinfinance on Ebay, and used the instructions from:

http://filmprocess.ru/nikon_prog_en.html

which seem to work fine. This was a year ago, so maybe the China chips have changed since then, but I have found no problems programming the ones I have.

John

I have this peleng8-dandelion-adapter but C/Y-Eos. For my EOS5.

IN the nikon-instruction i see an AF/M-Switch-function.
Does this mean one can deactivate the adapter or reset to non-programmed?

IN canon-instruction i dont see this function.
My Problem is: I cannot deactivate focus-trap in Manual mode.
They say this function is a plus. Not being able to deactivate it is a big mess.
Until know i have not found a focus-trap-activator/deactivator in-camera.
I can switch from One shot to AI-servo to deactivate FC and Focus-trap.
 
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I am about to learn my dandalion. AF/M switch can be programmed.
but they say if 1/3 EV cannot be set some stuff cannot be programmed.
my eos5 has 1/2 EV-steps only. will check but not exif its analogue...
anyway there are some open questions.
when i switch to Ai-Servo FC is off.

This could be the right Chip:
www.optixpcb.com

check the four instruction-sheets.
---

i have heard that there is a chip which can handle the 1/2 EV-problem. if camera cannot set 1/3 EV-steps.
maybe its the EMF.
www.emfphoto.com/forum
i would forget it-old nonactive website of big_is who seems no more active
one cannot register. since the owner does not reply.

all three chips-att. old table
http://www.dslr-forum.de/attachment.php?attachmentid=1396063&d=1279237943
 
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Pay attention to peleng8-adapter-lens-locker

I am about to learn my dandalion. AF/M switch can be programmed.
but they say if 1/3 EV cannot be set some stuff cannot be programmed.
my eos5 has 1/2 EV-steps only. will check but not exif its analogue...
anyway there are some open questions.
when i switch to Ai-Servo FC is off.

This could be the right Chip:
www.optixpcb.com

check the four instruction-sheets.
---

i have heard that there is a chip which can handle the 1/2 EV-problem. if camera cannot set 1/3 EV-steps.
maybe its the EMF.
www.emfphoto.com/forum
i would forget it-old nonactive website of big_is who seems no more active
one cannot register. since the owner does not reply.

all three chips-att. old table
http://www.dslr-forum.de/attachment.php?attachmentid=1396063&d=1279237943
Attention-Peleng8-dandelion-adapter-owners:
My C/Y-version has a lens-locker which has the be bent inwards a bit at the end. If not lens could slip out of the adapter.
 
Just a quick question about these chips..
How well do they work? I've seen some good results, but heard mixed reviews..
So it seems to be down to which chip one bought.
Which chip seems to work the best and where can one buy it?
Most of you guys have a similar telescope setup as me, so how well does it work with this setup? It seems like it would be awesome for flying bird shots or just to make it easier to focus in general.
I found one shop with a chip:
http://store.tagotech.com/product_info.php?products_id=139
Is that one any good?
 
"It seems like it would be awesome for flying bird shots or just to make it easier to focus in general. "

Maybe I just misunderstand - but to be clear - the chip does confirm focus - but nothing more. Not sure if it would help you so much with flying birds (more than your eyes and the way you turn the focuser back and forth, and keeping track) But perhaps with practice it will help more, of course.

I use one (don't know which one though) but sometimes it feels more of a mental help/comfort, than actual help, LOL. Birds are way faster than me, that's for sure. If i hadn't deleted them all, I could fill several photo books with empty twigs...:)
 
I have a dandelion-adapter from peleng8.com
in canon 5(analogue) i can change from focus-trap to continous shooting. its not blocked when its out of focus.
in combination with follow-focus focustrap is fantastic. is totally reliable even at low light. my lens is 400/5.6

there are techniques of focus-confirm(i dont have them by heart),
emf(i dont think its had focus-trap-option), dandelion and optixpcb in hk.
http://www.optixpcb.com/store
ITS THE BEST

next one i will buy from them-a bit more expensive.
ir-light of focus is energy-consuming.

until now i didnt find a clear and complete manual for dandelions.
at leitax.com is a description.

ATT: german only
http://www.dslr-forum.de/showthread.php?t=875936&page=3

i spent several weeks to understand how it is working.
even if cam does not have 1/3 steps(compensation) one can program aperture correctly.
did only test without film.

btw: there is a thread at dpreview with findings about peleng8.
its is 4th generation-programmable.
search 3dreal dandelion
 
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Thanks,
Yeah I know it just shows when it is in focus. I figured that when something is flying by instead of furiously focusing and snapping away and coming up with just a few keepers, I might be able to up the keepers. If it only fires when in focus that would seemingly help the keeper rate go way up...
Thanks 3dreal for the sites. I'll take a look at those.
 
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