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Sears 10x50 porro prism binoculars (1 Viewer)

JWcamp

Medium Birder
Hello,
I found my old Sears labeled 10x50 binoculars and wondered if anyone had any information about them?
I think I bought them new in the early 70's?|=)|

Data:
Left side = Sears Model# 2531, Fully Amber Coated
Right side = 10x50mm, Extra Wide Angle, 420 ft at 1000 yards

Hinge cap = made in Japan
CL-83026

Cast in frame [with a funky J] = JB46

Oval sticker = C&S, Passed, IGMPC

Measured close focus = 32 feet :eek!:
Weight = 2 pounds on the dot
folding rubber eyecups [still nice rubber]

Regards,
John
 
Searching around it looks like the JB 46 means that they were made by Otsuka Kogaku Co. Ltd., Tokyo Japan
 
John,

Do you have a picture of those?

I have been collecting the Sears vintage porros lately. I don't have a 10x50 model but do have two 7x50s and many 7x35s. I am guessing they have the more classic body style as opposed to the block-style but could be mistaken. Would love to see them.

Thanks.
 
Frank,
I will get some photographs, and try to post them.
The case is original, but the neck strap is a replacement one with neoprene.
Regards,
John
 
Thanks John. I look forwarding to seeing the pics so we can determine which variety of Sears porro you have.
 
Here are a couple of pictures of the Sears 10x50 Extra Wide Angle binoculars.
 

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John don't know this particular binocular, some are good some not. If the internals are clear they well be usable.
I would expect a fairly sharp central field, going soft towards the edges. Single coatings at a guess prisms are probably uncoated.
 
This pair has been great to me.
Back in the day, I really enjoyed birding with them.

Entering my reservations for this years Allegany Nature Pilgrimage, I reminisce about years past with these Sears 10 x 50's.

I've got a birthday coming up in March, so....

i've got a super wife...

So maybe a new pair...

Lighter with much closer focus.;)
 
I'm no help on the date, yet I've similar. Same body/barrels & J-B46 w/same tripod mount under the right prism. Identical fonts/colour scheme on the prism face save mine a No.6213. Plastic-rubber strap & a rainguard proudly displaying the SEARS logo in a rectangle box.

Eyepieces slightly different as is the focus wheel. Mine has silver lugs separated by lines going the other direction. The diopter pattern is identical w/red zero. Mine has silver rings that fit between the endcap & barrel.

They're a heavy build & appear rugged. Somewhere past that model they went to a major design change going w/one piece body. I have one Model 6282 & it has the same style fonts/colours except it's 400' FOV and the prism covers , whilst similar on the bottom, are rounded at the top. Apparently using fatter prisms & the oculars are wider.

Black leather strap, tripod mount under right prism, yet different design w/three chrome panhead screws apparently securing the chrome adapter to the body. Diopter numbers smaller & wider apart still has red zero. Individual lens coves all around w/Sears logo. Now the focus wheel & eyepieces have a simple ribbed pattern.

Body length seems the same , yet barrel section is about 5mm longer. Incidentally the oculars are 25mm on these in comparison to 21mm on the others. Also the prism face is flat where others are slightly rounded being higher in the middle. No chrome beauty rings on this one still J-B46 w/Japan on the hinge cap though plain raised instead of painted white. Bronze oval inspection sticker w/red boundary & large letters reading 'passed' going to smaller pale blue letters reading, japan telescopes inspection institute. Not as much metal, so lighter weight.

I enjoy both, especially for the price, w/similarities & differences.
 
JW,

I have the 8x50 version of this model. I bought it about a month ago. I can confirm much of what Simon posted about coatings and image quality. I didn't check the prisms. my pair arrived with a broken rocker arm which I have not been able to fix. The seller refunded my money but told me to keep the bins since I only paid $19 for it. It serves as my current feeder bin so that I don't have to worry about refocusing. ;)

A solid performer and I can see why you might enjoy the 10x50 so much. "Sears" made a very good binocular back in the day.

Thank you for the pics.
 
Frank,

I've got a pair of mid-1960s Sears 20 x 50 porro prism binoculars that I bought new back around 1964. The images are slightly misaligned, but I can't find an adjustment screw for the prisms. The Sears model number is 6220. It has two JL numbers on the front of the housing. One is JL E15. The other is JL B115. Any ideas?

Bruce
 
Frank, I'm not really an expert on this, but it doesn't look like it has collimation rings. There are removable trim rings on the end of the barrel, but it doesn't look like any of the rings underneath are moveable. They look like the end of the objective lens barrel. The inside edge appears to be threaded for a filter.
I've attached some pictures showing the ends of the barrel, the manufacturers markings, and an overall shot of the binocs. Mostly they show that the glasses need a thorough cleaning.

I appreciate the help.

Bruce
 

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Bruce,

You really need a straight on shot of the objective lens. Sometimes the eccentric ring under the retaining collar only has one slot and sometimes it is not visible unless the retaining ring is backed out a little.

Try and either slightly tighten or loosen the objective barrels and see if you note a shift in image.

Sometimes things go out because something loosened up a little.
 
Bruce,

The left photo shows what appears to be an eccentric ring, wider at the bottom. Removing the slotted retaining ring in front should give you access. One eccentric ring should be nestled inside the other.

Henry
 
Great info, guys. There are, in fact, two slotted rings. I took the first one out. The second one seems to rotate freely inside. Should I unscrew that. At what point would I actually be making collimation adjustments. I'm astonished that after nearly 50 years these components could be hand loosened. Not bad for a relatively inexpensive set of glasses.

Thanks again.

Bruce
 
Before you go to messing with that inner ring, don't. Now that you know it's there, put it back fairly snug, note the relative positions of everything (where the slots are etc). Then you need to figure out which side is out of collimation and work on that side without touching the other side. If you get overambitious you have a boatload of frustration ahead.
 
Thanks for the warning, Steve. Fortunately, haven't done anything but just wiggle it back and forth. I guess the next step would be to decide which side has slipped out of adjustment and determine which direction its image needs to be moved. How do you choose which side is correct?

Thanks again for taking time with me on this.

Bruce
 
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