[Larry Wheatland]

Hi folks, anyone able to help with any of this:

We're arriving in Bali on Nov 3rd, then have 2 months to try to bird eastwards and up to Sulawesi and hopefully to cross a land border on Borneo before 2 month visa runs out. Hoping to do it all by boats.

Any advice? hoping to ideally "do" Sumba, Flores and Sulawesi (no time for Timor, no time for Halmahera (and Kalimantan and Bali just basically transits, we think).

Any recommendations of any vaguely recent trip reports, or personnal experience?

All we have is the Wallacea Field guide and Nigel Wheatleys Asia guide so far!

Anywhere we should avoid at the moment, or any sites in these books no longer in existance?

[Larry Wheatland]

I see

[lewis20126]

Larry

Sumba and Flores are pretty well staked out now by Birdtour Asia & Birdquest but as I don't know all the sites that isn't much help; I went in 1992 so things have probably changed a bit!

Sulawesi similarly although most people send some time at Tangkoko (2-3 days) and not so much at Dumoga-Bone as the latter is fairly trashed now ( I went in 1991) but I think still key for Maleo. Obviously as much time as you can at Lore Lindu, especially high up. Gunung Ambang is also staked out for boobook and matinan fly and can be done in 1-2 days.

John Hornbuckle has posted some useful Indonesian stuff on Worldtwitch.

Any real specifics you think that I might be able to help with send me a PM.

cheers, alan

[Gretchen]

I ran across this site on the web, looking at other things, but don't imagine its too useful for you, but...

[Rob Hutchinson]

Larry,

Its a few years since i've been to the Lesser Sundas but check itineraries on our website for places to visit www.birdtourasia.com I also have a good trip report from a friend who did an independent trip, it has loads of info that I passed on to him and is really useful for that area, drop me an email and I will send you a copy. robhutchinson@birdtourasia.com

I am much more up to date with Sulawesi, some notes below but again email me if you want more details;

Makassar area - spend a morning at Karaenta forest / Bantimurung for Black-ringed White-eye etc. Also some good fish ponds along the new highway out to the airport if you have time to kill. Fly to Palu.

Lore Lindu - most stay at Wuasa (3 hours from Palu) and take car / ojek up to forest each day. Sendy Guesthouse is fine to stay. Spend at least 5 days birding here. Lots of the birds are along the lower sections (near Lake Tambing) but need to go up Anaso track for some specialties, track is not accessible to vehicles anymore so might need to walk up 6km, could camp a night if you have gear. Olobaju river near Palu is a good stop for Pale-headed Munia etc.

Can then take buses to north Sulawesi but unless you are very cash-strapped then avoid the torture and fly to Manado (via Makassar).

in the north;

Kotamabagu area - Kotamabagu is a 3.5 hour drive from Manado, a few sites to visit nearby-

Gunung Ambang - A morning or two here for Cinnabar Boobook (also at Lore lindu), Matinan Flycatcher, Scaly Kingfisher and other recommended. Can stay with ranger in nearby Singsingon, let me know if you want details.
Tambun - Maleo reserve, conservation by WSC is going well and numbers are increasing, hopefully you will get them in a single early morning visit but not guarenteed. Also good for Maroon-chinned fruit Dove, Crested Myna etc.
Tarout - trashed but still good birding especially BB Koel, Bay Coucal, YB Rauquet-tail, Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove. There are now rooms available in Tarout again. Good to nightbirds - 2 boobooks, scops, masked owl.
Tapakolintang - this area along the road to Molibagu has some roadside forest with good birding, same species as above.

Return to Manado and head to Tangkoko (2 hours from Manado); Tangkoko is a great place! guides here have everything well staked out and you will clean up in 2 days.

Halmahera - you only need a week, if you have time then let me know and will drop some details.

Good luck!
Rob

[Larry Wheatland]

Thanks ever so much guys, even if we end up not being able to check out most of these sites it'll hopefully be useful to others. I really hope we can go to Sulawesi though.

I think we've bitten off more than we can chew trying to take on this area without flying at this stage in our trip. We're worn out now,and it's almost sent us home! We have at least managed to get to Flores today though, and picked up a couple of goodies in the gruelling transit from Kuta (eg White-tailed and Red-tailed Tropicbirds, Lemon-bellied White-eye and Pale-headed Munia. Think it's just one of those "we've had enough of backpacking after 2 years solid of it" type days. Our future might depend a bit on what Pelni tell us here, and also not sure how paranoid we should be about malaria as we're not taking anything?

[Rob Hutchinson]

A heck of a of a lot easier if you fly here for sure, but give it a try anyway, some fantastic birding to be had.

None of the areas are super high risk for Malaria, but get some doxycycline if you can.

[Larry Wheatland]

Thanks Rob, feeling a bit getter today after a few hours at Puar Lolo.

Looks like we can get a boat on 15th (every 2 weeks) all the way to Bitung (takes 5 days, (we hope)). Then maybe we'll be able to do the far NE and get to Lore Lindu and still get a boat to Kalimantan and leave Indo before our visa runs out. ???