|
|
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Rate Thread |
|
|
#126 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Delaware
Posts: 973
|
Dennis
That is the early Series E made prior to 1990. A nice view but the later FMC E models have better coatings, and are more desireable. I would guess this auction would end close to the $150-$200 mark when the dust settles. Here is a pic of what the later ones look like. Easy way to tell is from the logo and marking on the left top plate Tom |
|
|
|
|
#127 | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 3,820
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
#128 | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 3,820
|
Quote:
"Tasco 1xx series - These are the oldest Tascos I believe, from the late 50s and early 60s Tasco 4xx series Tasco World Class porros Bushnell Custom Bushnell Featherlight = Fuji Photo Optical optics Bushnell Rangemasters Yashica classic body style porros Agfa - these are German made, not Japanese Canon - classic body style porros, the 8x30s are really nice Nikon E series Nippon Kagaku San & Steriffe 9xx series Taylor Optical Mark II series Jason Venture series porros Jason Statesman series Bausch & Lomb Zephyr classic body style porros Bausch & Lomb Discoverer classic body style porros Celestron Nova series classic body style porros = Tamron Optics I believe Swift Mark II series Swift Holiday Swift SportKing Wide Angle Swift Neptune Swift Audubon Swift Kestrel Sears Discoverer Carl Schulz Some Binolux Some Empire Some Mirakel Sunset classic body style wide angle porros Happy Hunting!" |
|
|
|
|
|
#129 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Eastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,404
|
Dennis,
The list seems fairly accurate based on my experiences so far.
__________________
One thing to note when reading these forums is to make sure and "filter" the reviews through the prism of knowledge that we are a bunch of OCD nutcases who hyperanalyze any minute differences in order to have stuff to talk about here.... Eitanaltman |
|
|
|
|
#130 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Canberra, Australia
Posts: 36
|
The Canon 8x30s are very nice. I also briefly had a set of Fujinon Meibos from that era and the views were very clean and sharp. There are some gems around.
Andrew |
|
|
|
|
#131 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 393
|
Now, w/tout sheet in hand may the force & dineros be w/youse whilst perusing finely crafted/hardly used glass from days of yore.
|
|
|
|
|
#132 | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: ky
Posts: 439
|
Quote:
Steve |
|
|
|
|
|
#133 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 3,820
|
|
|
|
|
|
#134 | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: ky
Posts: 439
|
Quote:
Steve |
|
|
|
|
|
#135 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 3,820
|
|
|
|
|
|
#136 | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Uppsala
Posts: 473
|
Quote:
Not like a brand new Zeiss/Nikon that you just take out of the box and use. Yes?
__________________
*(\_/) (='.'=) '(_||_) |
|
|
|
|
|
#137 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 3,820
|
|
|
|
|
|
#138 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: ky
Posts: 439
|
|
|
|
|
|
#139 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: ky
Posts: 439
|
Unscrew the cap on the front/objective side of the center hinge. Insert a small screwdriver into the exposed hole to loosen the slotted screw that retains the threaded ocular adjustment mechanism within the center hinge. Then simply turn the focus wheel until the oculars move to the rear and the focus screw disengages and lift the ocular assembly from the ocular tubes. I usually clean the threads with an old tooth brush and alcohol or solvent and lube with grease. It's really quite simple once you've done a pair or two.
Steve |
|
|
|
|
#140 | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 3,820
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
#141 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 3,820
|
|
|
|
|
|
#142 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central AR
Posts: 393
|
|
|
|
|
|
#143 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Eastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,404
|
Dennis,
Good question. A vintage porro and a current roof are two totally different animals. I have not attempted to take apart any current roof for a couple of reasons. One is the waterproofing issue and, two, they don't seem as readily accessible in terms of a "field repair". Accessing key components via readily available screws does not seem a strong point for any current roof. Based on what I have seen from several videos it appears as if the manufacturers do remove the rubber armor on some models to access many of the necessary components. I don't feel comfortable attempting this on a current roof prism model that I intend to use on a regular basis. Of course, something simple like a shot of lubricant at a key spot by the focus may do the trick. I haven't had the need to do it myself so don't want to comment further.
__________________
One thing to note when reading these forums is to make sure and "filter" the reviews through the prism of knowledge that we are a bunch of OCD nutcases who hyperanalyze any minute differences in order to have stuff to talk about here.... Eitanaltman |
|
|
|
|
#144 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: ky
Posts: 439
|
I have no experience with this model at all but it certainly wouldn't hurt to try Frank's suggestion. A very small amount of lubricant at the right place might do the trick. I like silicone based lubricants for applications of this nature.
The waterproof sealed nature of modern roofs is a double edge sword in my opinion. It's great when everything works but their construction is more expensive and not conducive to simple maintenance. I do overnight fishing trips on the river several times a year and usually have a pair of binoculars for checking out the wildlife. I have several waterproof/nitrogen sealed roofs and porros which would seem ideal but I always opt for one of my vintage porros. I don't have over 30-40 dollars in them at the most, they put up great views, and most importantly if I take a spill in my kayak I can dry and or clean them myself. Steve |
|
|
|
|
#145 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Klamath Basin, Oregon
Posts: 2,386
|
If Vortex and Nikon (those I have experience with ) can adjust focus on their binoculars, it would be a logical conclusion that Sightron can too. I would also think that It would be possible for a hobbyist to do so as well, but I don't know how to get the focus shaft out of a roof, never have tried. I'm still learning too much about the vintage porros to even look.
So, what I suggest is to call Sightron and talk to somebody in their service or repair department. I have a notion they can regrease the focus pretty easily.
__________________
Steve "Do what you can, where you are, with what you have" Teddy Roosevelt. |
|
|
Click here to Support BirdForum |
|
|
#146 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Klamath Basin, Oregon
Posts: 2,386
|
If Vortex and Nikon (those in my experience) can clean and adjust focus on their binoculars, I'd bet Sightron could too. That is likely one of the easier things to do in a roof...IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING...and I don't
. Not with a roof for sure. I'd just get on the phone and call Sightron, talk to somebody in the service or repair department and see what they say. It might be just a simple warranty issue. I agree with Steve that one of the draws to a good vintage porro is that taking one apart and cleaning it up yourself is not hard. Maybe a roof isn't either...but these are different animals. EDIT: I got curious and called Sightron, yes, they say that is a simple, cost free warranty issue. Just send it in with an explanation.
__________________
Steve "Do what you can, where you are, with what you have" Teddy Roosevelt. Last edited by Steve C : Wednesday 22nd February 2012 at 17:10. |
|
|
Click here to Support BirdForum |
|
|
#147 | |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Denver,CO
Posts: 3,820
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
| Advertisement |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Rate This Thread | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Will the earthquake in Japan make Binocular supplies dwindle? | denco@comcast.n | Binoculars | 39 | Wednesday 23rd March 2011 20:29 |
| Super sharp centre, poor edges. | Martin Fagg | Binoculars | 3 | Saturday 8th January 2011 15:39 |
| Options for a narrow FOV binocular?? | wanderer55 | Binoculars | 18 | Sunday 2nd May 2010 20:11 |
| Best non alpha Compact binocular ? | AlbertoJ | Binoculars | 45 | Thursday 11th March 2010 01:03 |