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Old Thursday 22nd September 2011, 15:42   #51
JvdM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbc View Post
Hi Jaco,

For my case, after the first programming of the chip and testing for front / back focus, I tried to re-enter programming mode as instructed to adjust but it just wouldn't go to programming mode. You guys have such issues? I'll try to post the shots but just couldn't pinpoint whether front or back focus.

I've also tried following Thornlv's footstep of getting the AF extension tubes to install the chip but the fit with my T-adapter was bad, easily 0.5 to 1mm clearance and was rattling. It's from Kenko with Nikon mount (12mm). The current chip on T-adapter has dropped off umpteen times when in the field and its getting me hot and seriously considering the Nikkor 600 F4. Need approval from my minister of Finance though.

tbc
Hi tbc

On problems entering programming mode:

Possible that you have MLU enabled? I wasted a lot of time and nearly gave up - until I disabled MLU.

Also check that you are setting exposure to 13 seconds - not to 1/13 as I have done.

I am not sure of the Nikon setting up procedures. For Canon there is an alternative way to get into programming mode (if the prescribed method doesn't work):

1. Select Manual, SS 13sec, AI Servo (AI Servo will not lock the shutter) as opposed to One Shot.

2. Get focus confirm and disengage the camera/adapter: aperture = 0.0

3. Switch off the camera.

4. Switch on the camera and immediately half press the shutter button.

5. Engage the adapter/camera (still doing the half press thing).

6. The moment the aperture changes to that which you have set or the default value of 1.4, take the shot at 13 sec.

7. Enter Av mode to check that you are in programming mode (aperture ranges from 3.5 to 11)

I am not familiar with your camera's nomenclature so I hope you can get by with the above terminology.

As far as the mounting of the chip goes:

Mine is still holding on. Did you use the little plastic support bracket when you installed the chip? Can't see the installation lasting without it.

Also, use some very fine emery cloth/sand paper to prep the area on the adapter (just lightly scoring the anodising/chrome finish for better grip) and then clean it with methanol. I prepared the chip and bracket the same way before glueing them together first.

Use good quality plastic epoxy (not quick drying) to glue the chip to the support bracket. Slower drying glue will allow you to fit the chip plus bracket to the adapter and make alterations so it fits properly. Once you are satisfied that everything is square, leave it for an hour or so to dry properly.

I used "Super Glue" to then mount the already assembled chip and bracket to the adapter. Bob's your uncle - or mine :)

Nerve wracking when you have sausages for fingers.

Hope you find some inspiration amongst all this rambling.

Regards

Jaco


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Old Friday 23rd September 2011, 15:12   #52
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My chips have different instructions for entering program mode, make three shots in sequence:

- 1 sec
- 5 sec or 6 sec
- 1 sec

Mine are older, maybe the programming on newer ones has changed.

As far as attaching the chip,I pretty much do as Jaco says, except I use 1-hour epoxy for everything. I also clean everything with alcohol and wear rubber gloves to keep skin oils off the contact surfaces - absolute cleanliness is important. One time I made an alignment error, I forced it and it crunched the chip before the glue let go.
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Old Thursday 22nd December 2011, 05:54   #53
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JvdM,

I got my chips from jinfinance on Ebay, and used the instructions from:

http://filmprocess.ru/nikon_prog_en.html

which seem to work fine. This was a year ago, so maybe the China chips have changed since then, but I have found no problems programming the ones I have.

John
I have this peleng8-dandelion-adapter but C/Y-Eos. For my EOS5.

IN the nikon-instruction i see an AF/M-Switch-function.
Does this mean one can deactivate the adapter or reset to non-programmed?

IN canon-instruction i dont see this function.
My Problem is: I cannot deactivate focus-trap in Manual mode.
They say this function is a plus. Not being able to deactivate it is a big mess.
Until know i have not found a focus-trap-activator/deactivator in-camera.
I can switch from One shot to AI-servo to deactivate FC and Focus-trap.

Last edited by 3dreal : Thursday 22nd December 2011 at 05:56.
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Old Thursday 22nd December 2011, 11:42   #54
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3dreal - sorry, I don't know Canon, so I can't advise you.
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Old Thursday 22nd December 2011, 11:57   #55
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I am about to learn my dandalion. AF/M switch can be programmed.
but they say if 1/3 EV cannot be set some stuff cannot be programmed.
my eos5 has 1/2 EV-steps only. will check but not exif its analogue...
anyway there are some open questions.
when i switch to Ai-Servo FC is off.

This could be the right Chip:
www.optixpcb.com

check the four instruction-sheets.
---

i have heard that there is a chip which can handle the 1/2 EV-problem. if camera cannot set 1/3 EV-steps.
maybe its the EMF.
www.emfphoto.com/forum
i would forget it-old nonactive website of big_is who seems no more active
one cannot register. since the owner does not reply.

all three chips-att. old table
http://www.dslr-forum.de/attachment....3&d=1279237943

Last edited by 3dreal : Thursday 22nd December 2011 at 12:33.
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Old Tuesday 10th January 2012, 14:29   #56
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Pay attention to peleng8-adapter-lens-locker

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dreal View Post
I am about to learn my dandalion. AF/M switch can be programmed.
but they say if 1/3 EV cannot be set some stuff cannot be programmed.
my eos5 has 1/2 EV-steps only. will check but not exif its analogue...
anyway there are some open questions.
when i switch to Ai-Servo FC is off.

This could be the right Chip:
www.optixpcb.com

check the four instruction-sheets.
---

i have heard that there is a chip which can handle the 1/2 EV-problem. if camera cannot set 1/3 EV-steps.
maybe its the EMF.
www.emfphoto.com/forum
i would forget it-old nonactive website of big_is who seems no more active
one cannot register. since the owner does not reply.

all three chips-att. old table
http://www.dslr-forum.de/attachment....3&d=1279237943
Attention-Peleng8-dandelion-adapter-owners:
My C/Y-version has a lens-locker which has the be bent inwards a bit at the end. If not lens could slip out of the adapter.
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Old Thursday 16th February 2012, 14:02   #57
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Just a quick question about these chips..
How well do they work? I've seen some good results, but heard mixed reviews..
So it seems to be down to which chip one bought.
Which chip seems to work the best and where can one buy it?
Most of you guys have a similar telescope setup as me, so how well does it work with this setup? It seems like it would be awesome for flying bird shots or just to make it easier to focus in general.
I found one shop with a chip:
http://store.tagotech.com/product_in...roducts_id=139
Is that one any good?
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Old Thursday 16th February 2012, 20:09   #58
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"It seems like it would be awesome for flying bird shots or just to make it easier to focus in general. "

Maybe I just misunderstand - but to be clear - the chip does confirm focus - but nothing more. Not sure if it would help you so much with flying birds (more than your eyes and the way you turn the focuser back and forth, and keeping track) But perhaps with practice it will help more, of course.

I use one (don't know which one though) but sometimes it feels more of a mental help/comfort, than actual help, LOL. Birds are way faster than me, that's for sure. If i hadn't deleted them all, I could fill several photo books with empty twigs...:-)
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Old Thursday 16th February 2012, 21:22   #59
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I have a dandelion-adapter from peleng8.com
in canon 5(analogue) i can change from focus-trap to continous shooting. its not blocked when its out of focus.
in combination with follow-focus focustrap is fantastic. is totally reliable even at low light. my lens is 400/5.6

there are techniques of focus-confirm(i dont have them by heart),
emf(i dont think its had focus-trap-option), dandelion and optixpcb in hk.
http://www.optixpcb.com/store
ITS THE BEST

next one i will buy from them-a bit more expensive.
ir-light of focus is energy-consuming.

until now i didnt find a clear and complete manual for dandelions.
at leitax.com is a description.

ATT: german only
http://www.dslr-forum.de/showthread.php?t=875936&page=3

i spent several weeks to understand how it is working.
even if cam does not have 1/3 steps(compensation) one can program aperture correctly.
did only test without film.

btw: there is a thread at dpreview with findings about peleng8.
its is 4th generation-programmable.
search 3dreal dandelion

Last edited by 3dreal : Friday 17th February 2012 at 08:52.
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Old Friday 17th February 2012, 13:46   #60
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Thanks,
Yeah I know it just shows when it is in focus. I figured that when something is flying by instead of furiously focusing and snapping away and coming up with just a few keepers, I might be able to up the keepers. If it only fires when in focus that would seemingly help the keeper rate go way up...
Thanks 3dreal for the sites. I'll take a look at those.
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Old Friday 17th February 2012, 15:23   #61
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Hi bogert

I have the Dandelion (from tagotech) and tried using it with the telescope. I have found it more bother than help. It will spuriously lose the programmed info and when using a 1.4x TC you don't have focus confirm (on Canon) anyway. It does help to sort photos when you change or stack TC's during a shoot, as it records the f/ number in the exif data - with my 1.4x Kenko's as either f/8 or f/11.

In the case 3dreal mentions (400mm f/5.6) it may work as long as you don't add a TC to the lens/camera combination as AF is limited to f/5.6 on Canon consumer DSLR's. Canon DSLR's don't provide for trap focus in the software, so if it is your thing this may work with a lens, but not with a telescope where you are already at f/7 or smaller. I have tried to fool the AF by programming the chip to 600mm f/4, but the AF refuses to work when it senses the light value to be below the value it would have at f/5.6.

Some of the other guys may have had better results with different cameras or different chips, but the lack of excitement here leads me to think otherwise.

Best regards

Jaco
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Old Friday 17th February 2012, 17:00   #62
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In continous mode camera is not stopping even if its off-focus. In this case novoflex follow-focus is best. 200/3.8 and 1.5x converter exist also beside 400/5.6 and 600/8 and leitz telith heads. and tamron-novoflex 60-300 and 300/2.8.

will test with kenko 2x converter. dont have novoflex own(does not matter).
i was surprised how good 5.6 was working in very low light.
btw: with contax ax- vivitar cat 600/8 i was also very surprised that it worked also in quite low light. beside the 5.6 limit which is obviously only on paper was he fact that this type of mirror-lens hasnt a certain limit(i forgot what one exactly) maybe has to do with AF-confirm. Accuracy.
btw: there is a 450/4.5 around in germany. not so expensive.
500/4 i once had from sigma(two versions, one with closer focussing) cap with 5.6-simulation

Last edited by 3dreal : Friday 17th February 2012 at 17:07.
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Old Saturday 18th February 2012, 08:49   #63
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Half-Good news regarding Novoflex+2xConverter

Tested on Canon 5(analogue)- dont have dslr
400/5.6 not working with 2x-converter and FC.
200/3.8 plus whatever 2x-converter: Working!
so why use 200x2= 400/7.6(almost one stop slower) instead of 400/5.6?
its much more lightweight!
there is a 1.5 original novoflex converter which loses only one stop(if i dont err). but only for novoflex-lenses.
I tested also 200/3.8 plus panagor 2x macroconverter in low light indoors and macro. sometimes its working maybe not enough light.
AF-light didnt help.
first with 400x2-combo i thought its not working because the beam hits the knob of the built-in bellows in my B-type-Novoflex-system.
i would definitively get the newer c-version due to several advatages.
1. when using the better triplet 400/5.6 T pisto-grip is at wrong-unbalanced position.
2. bellow is built-in. dont know anymore how its is working.
3. has a big quick-release button if lens is focus-fixed to a position and focus must be unlocked quickly when birds are flying out of their position/nest.
on all novoflex-lenses camera can be turned vertically.
Focustrap and continous focussing
all novoflex have focus-fix-knob.
Dandelion:
One Shot= Focus-confirm/Focus-Trap
Shooting in continuous-mode possible from the first confirmation on.
In single shot, only one shot, when infocus.
AI Servo-No FConfirm, always shooting.
Follow Focus is very quick and accurate also when subject is moving fast.
It needs training.
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Old Wednesday 13th June 2012, 07:44   #64
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Hi all

I would like to share my experience with AF confirm chips.

I found this programmable chip on eBay sold by a seller under the name tagotech, 100% positive feedback. Price tag $19.98

Super fast delivery, took just a few days to arrive to Sweden from Singapore.

The chip comes with a machine made plastic alignment tool that helps in making sure it is positioned correctly when gluing it to the adapter. And yes, this chip is programmable, F number can be programmed from 2.0 to 9.9 and focal length up to 100000 mm. The programming is sort of archaic and the provided instructions were almost correct - it took me a few extra minutes to figure out that the feedback ("--" prompt) was not displayed in all situations, once I skipped waiting for the prompt the programming worked as described.

It works OK, you can see some results at the end of the "gallery" thread for samples of birds in flight captured with the Skywatcher 600 mm F/7.5. The audible beep is s great support while fine tuning focus on a moving subject.

Thanks to the Olympus E-system body built-in image stabilizer the programming not only produces correct EXIF data (600 mm, F/7.5 in my case) but also the IS mechanism should operate correctly since the input parameter is the actual focal length and not the default 50 mm. (in theory at least, should work in practice as well).

I haven't tested if it needs AF calibration, though.

Hope this is useful information to this thread.

/Tord
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Old Saturday 25th August 2012, 08:41   #65
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I just got a chipped Nikon-4/3 adapter from big_is (ebay). The adapter its self is identical to a Fotodiox I already have. Now, pardon me if I ask a stupid question, but one thing is not clear to me. Do you HAVE to program the chip for it to work, or is "programming" it just telling it/the camera what to put in the EXIF data?
The Olympus in body IS works fine without the chip on legacy lenses. You just have to tell the camera what the focal length is and you are done. Maybe that gets screwed up with a chip. At any rate, I can't even get into the programming mode of the chip following the instructions I got from the seller, so I can't even try it out. As is it gives me the usual 50mm in the EXIF, and the AF confirm dot lights up on focus, sort of, when it is not blinking. Basically it seems to be a PITA.

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Old Saturday 25th August 2012, 12:02   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanC.Licks View Post
I just got a chipped Nikon-4/3 adapter from big_is (ebay). The adapter its self is identical to a Fotodiox I already have. Now, pardon me if I ask a stupid question, but one thing is not clear to me. Do you HAVE to program the chip for it to work, or is "programming" it just telling it/the camera what to put in the EXIF data?
The Olympus in body IS works fine without the chip on legacy lenses. You just have to tell the camera what the focal length is and you are done. Maybe that gets screwed up with a chip. At any rate, I can't even get into the programming mode of the chip following the instructions I got from the seller, so I can't even try it out. As is it gives me the usual 50mm in the EXIF, and the AF confirm dot lights up on focus, sort of, when it is not blinking. Basically it seems to be a PITA.
my adapter beeps AF confirmation, and that's it. The lenght of the scope I do on camera as you know. Exif, I don't care about. I've had 1mm to 65500mm ...
If the AF works, I say be happy with it. :-)
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Old Saturday 25th August 2012, 12:14   #67
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I get no beep, and lots of blinking. It sort of stays lit when I am right on, but it is a pain to have to keep looking in the corner rather than concentrate on the center of the view finder. Don't care about the exif data either, but I do care about IS and if it screws that up it is no use at all except as a second Nikon-4/3 adapter, after I bust the sucker off!

EDIT
Figured out the beep. Camera has to be set on SAF-MF and you have to hold the button half way down while focusing. We'll see if it is a help.

Last edited by DanC.Licks : Saturday 25th August 2012 at 12:26.
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Old Saturday 25th August 2012, 13:43   #68
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Hi,

A recent update on this topic.

I have programmed the AF confirm chip I am using (see post above) but I learned that theonly thing this does is that F number and FL are correct in the EXIF data. Nice, but does impact IQ.

The IS system on Olympus 4/3 bodies can (and should be) programmed to use the actual focal length of a legacy (i.e. non-4/3) lens. The default value the IS system uses in absence of input parameter is 50 mm, which is probably an OK value for most lenses but not for scopes.

To program the FL to use by the IS system:
  1. Enter the IS menu e.g. IS=1
  2. Press the exposure compensation button +/-
  3. Adjust the FL using the up and down arrows


Values in the long range that can be entered are 500, 600, 800 with highest value 1000, typically what you will get from a scope with teleconverter. Even if the FL is more than 1000 mm, 1000 is certainly better than 50.

HTH

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Old Saturday 25th August 2012, 15:13   #69
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I have used a number of non 4/3 lenses and have always dialed in the focal length into the IS. The chip, which I can't seem to be able to program, does not seem to interfere with this and I can dial in the scope focal length without problem. I disagree that 50mm "is probably an OK value for most lenses". The body has to know how much to compensate for how much movement and that it should be as close as possible.

I now am going to test how accurate it is and whether an AF adjust is necessary and can be saved into the camera's system, as the Oly AF lenses can be.

Last edited by DanC.Licks : Saturday 25th August 2012 at 15:19.
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Old Saturday 25th August 2012, 16:09   #70
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OK, that seems to work. It shows up in my lens data as 50-50 f2.8, and a value of +10 puts it right on the money, even in pretty poor light.
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Old Sunday 26th August 2012, 10:11   #71
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Well....I guess I spoke too soon. I redid my test in better light. The chip from big_is is basically useless. It back-focuses by about 4cm!!, and the focus compensation in the E-30 changes nothing; +20 to -20, still the same wrong focus. Besides, in bad light, when you need it most, it doesn't even work at all.

EDIT: OK. I figured out how to interpret their instructions and was able to program the EXIF data (600mm/f7.5)into the chip. I was expecting some sort of display, but what you need to see is in the view finder unless you activate the info on the screen. Remains to be seen if that helps deal with the back focusing now that the camera knows it has a 600mm lens on it and not a 50mm. Not enough light now to test it properly.

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Old Monday 27th August 2012, 06:07   #72
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I wish I knew better how the Olympus AF adjustment worked, but I suspect it tells the lens to go just that tiny bit further, according to the settings, and not how the AF sensor should react. In other words, a non AF lens with a chip cannot be adjusted as there is no motor to control. I have done a number of tests this morning and find that first, there is no change in the AF confirm signal resulting from changing the AF adjust settings, (+20 and -20 are both exactly the same) and second, there seems to be no difference depending on whether one is focusing back to front or front to back (near to far). It reacts a little slowly, so if I focus back to front very slowly until it beeps, then double check by pushing the shutter button half way, making sure it beeps right away, then it is pretty much right on, but to be honest, I can do it better and faster by eye.
The other possibility I have not yet tried is turning off the S-AF priority, which lets me take a picture even if the focus is not correct, then push the shutter all the way and rock the focus and see if it takes the picture on time, that is, before the focus has been over shot.

I realize this is a little Olympus specific, but I doubt that it is any different with other brands. Just the names of the functions might be different.
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Old Monday 27th August 2012, 06:40   #73
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Hi Daniel, I think that you have any kind of trouble adjusting the "focus micro adjustment" option of the chip.

I also have an EMF from big_IS, I bought the version that is mounted in a M42 adapter.

Until I adjusted the micro focus value I always get 1.5cms of front focus.

It is a little tricky how to adjust it, but if you are able to change the focal length I am sure that you know how to do it.

Maybe the question regarding the -20 and +20 focus micro adjust value giving you the same front focus could be its circular nature. In my version the values range from 0 to 31, giving the same result 0 that "32" will do. It is a circular behaviour, so 8 and 24 will give you exactly the same focusing result, being 16 the opposite focusing value as 0, 1 the same as 31, 2 the same as 30, 3 the same as 29, etc.

I adjusted it with success, looking for a final value of 22 in my case, making a big improvement over the unadjusted chip.

I made the adjustment in a simple way: looked where the focus confirm gave the focus confirmation on the face of a plastic animal and then changed the mode to "live view" in my Canon 1000D, and zooming over the face. So it was easy to check if the focus was in the right position or not, changing values until seeing the best contrast in the live view screen when confirming focus over the face of it.

The instructions for adjusting my EMF chip were these:

http://emfphoto.com/forum/index.php?...6nr1&topic=2.0

I don't know if yours is similar or not.
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Old Monday 27th August 2012, 07:19   #74
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The AF Adjust function is in the camera its self and not in the chip. It is a way to fine tune AF lenses to the body. There was nothing in my instructions that said anything about micro focus adjustment, so I will have to look into that. I have also used the live view function to check AF, (using a slanted scale) but in the end I like to check for sure by looking at a shot on the computer screen.
The instructions you linked to are far more elaborate than the pdf they sent me, that were only somewhat better than useless. I will check into it.
At the moment I am experimenting with turning off the AF over ride, and letting the camera release the shutter when it gets the AF signal. Sort of push and focus. Not sure if it works. Horrible light today...
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Old Monday 27th August 2012, 07:33   #75
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What are you using? Canon?
These instructions are completely different than mine.

Here is what I get:
Click image for larger version

Name:	3T272680_resize.jpg
Views:	34
Size:	223.3 KB
ID:	401663 Click image for larger version

Name:	3T272681_resize.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	218.5 KB
ID:	401664

Last edited by DanC.Licks : Monday 27th August 2012 at 10:01.
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You forgot the chips, dear Michael Daniel Ho Sea Watch 1 Thursday 16th October 2008 18:20
Sooty Shearwater and Chips for $14 Paul Godolphin Live Bird News from around the World 2 Saturday 6th October 2007 05:29
Birds eye with chips please. Mark Derren Birds & Birding 1 Thursday 15th January 2004 10:16



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