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Old Sunday 30th November 2014, 16:40   #1
Werner H.
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Digiscoping with Fuji X-T1

Some photos from today bad wether so Iso 1600-3200 and shutter 1/20 - 1/125 sec., manual focus. Fuji X-T1 with APO TLS adapter direct on the Swaro 85. Effective aperture is 21. Distance about 10 - 12 meters.

rgds Werner

Last edited by Werner H. : Saturday 26th December 2015 at 18:36.
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Old Sunday 30th November 2014, 17:44   #2
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Extremely good captures, as usual, Werner. We're they taken in your garden or a park?
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Old Monday 1st December 2014, 07:08   #3
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Thanks Marco. Yes, I have a big garden and a lot of time during winter time.
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Old Monday 1st December 2014, 15:22   #4
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Some from today.

Werner

Last edited by Werner H. : Saturday 26th December 2015 at 18:36.
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Old Monday 1st December 2014, 15:24   #5
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APO TLS versus Afocal

Great shots with good detail. Do you prefer the APO against using a lens. I have recently tried the XT-1 with a 27mm f 2.8 lens & the results have been quite good up to 15-20M distance. (The combined f No is 8.4 when using the 25X magnification.) I prefer this lens because you get no vignetting & the lens movement for focusing is very small. I do have problems with getting the right exposure depending on the amount of contrast. Interesting camera & scope combination.

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Old Monday 1st December 2014, 15:44   #6
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Hi Grundy,

thank you first.
You also can apply the Fuji 35/1,4 and the 56/1,2 = 85 mm on the X-T1.
No vignetting with the 35/1,4 and very light vignetting with the 56/1,2.
The APO is very suitable for near distance from about 6 to 20 meters.
The X-T1 is very good for higher Iso up to 3200.

For videoscoping I really prefer the Sony RX100 MKIII. Very easy to handle and great results mostly.

Photos of the combi will follow.

regards Werner



Quote:
Originally Posted by Grundy View Post
Great shots with good detail. Do you prefer the APO against using a lens. I have recently tried the XT-1 with a 27mm f 2.8 lens & the results have been quite good up to 15-20M distance. (The combined f No is 8.4 when using the 25X magnification.) I prefer this lens because you get no vignetting & the lens movement for focusing is very small. I do have problems with getting the right exposure depending on the amount of contrast. Interesting camera & scope combination.

Regards

Grundy

Last edited by Werner H. : Monday 1st December 2014 at 16:07.
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Old Thursday 4th December 2014, 22:14   #7
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Beautiful work as always!
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Old Sunday 21st December 2014, 15:29   #8
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Woodpecker portrait.

Regards Werner

Last edited by Werner H. : Saturday 26th December 2015 at 18:36.
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Old Monday 22nd December 2014, 14:22   #9
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Great photos! I did briefly try the 35mm with this camera on my kowa and the results were very good.
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Old Friday 26th December 2014, 21:05   #10
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Dunnock. X-T1 with 35/1,4 at Swaro 85.

Regards Werner

Last edited by Werner H. : Saturday 26th December 2015 at 18:36.
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Old Sunday 28th December 2014, 16:16   #11
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Some more photos with the Fuji X-T1.

Regards Werner

Last edited by Werner H. : Saturday 26th December 2015 at 18:36.
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Old Saturday 3rd January 2015, 09:25   #12
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Some more ...

Regards Werner

Last edited by Werner H. : Saturday 26th December 2015 at 18:36.
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Old Sunday 4th January 2015, 16:31   #13
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From today

rgds Werner

Last edited by Werner H. : Saturday 26th December 2015 at 18:36.
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Old Wednesday 7th January 2015, 03:21   #14
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Having exposure challenges with X-T1

I've just started using the X-T1 with 27mm pancake on a Zeiss 85mm with 20-75 eyepiece. I have very little vignetting. I find that auto focus doesn't always get the right focus; often need to tweak the focus on the scope.


I have had challenges with exposure, particularly when shooting in lower light. When I depress the shutter half way to focus and determine exposure, the image becomes brighter proportional to a smaller aperture. If I choose f2.8, no change. I often use f8 for birding for DOF and this greatly increases the brightness on the viewfinder/LCD and on the captured image. Doesn't happen when shooting subjects lit by full sunlight. Happens whether I use auto or manual exposure, P or A, and a number of other setting choices.

Camera and lens work fine without the scope.


Have you experienced this and found a solution?



Thx

Bob
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Old Wednesday 7th January 2015, 08:09   #15
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Hi Bob,

I shoot always in manual mode at full aperture and focus peaking.
I do not know these problems. Every program A or S is an automatic an good for nothing.
Try it with the manual mode. Set the shutter to electronic shutter (ES i.e. no vibrations).
Take the new SD-cards with UHS-II which are much more faster than every card on the market.
Take the highspeed modus (CH).

rgds Werner
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Old Sunday 11th January 2015, 22:47   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Werner H. View Post
Some more photos with the Fuji X-T1.

Regards Werner
Excellent results as usual Werner.
Neil.
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Old Wednesday 14th January 2015, 18:55   #17
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Thank you Neil. Bad wether the last two weeks up to now. No chance for digiscoping

Rgds Werner

Last edited by Werner H. : Saturday 26th December 2015 at 18:36.
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Old Sunday 18th January 2015, 14:38   #18
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Some more picture mostly Iso 1250 - 1600 - 1/60 - manual focus

Rgds Werner

Last edited by Werner H. : Saturday 26th December 2015 at 18:36.
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Old Tuesday 21st March 2017, 08:05   #19
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Pity that the pictures have been removed from this topic. I think strongly about buying a Fujifilm X-T10, to replace my Nikon 1 V1. Does anyone have experience with the 35mm 1.4 lens coupled with a Swarovski ATS and the 25-50 eyepiece? Is it free of vignetting? I want to use it with the DCA adapter.

I am surprised that there is so little to be found about digiscoping with Fujifilm cameras. For stills this seems as good as the best option on the market. The video quality is poor, but I never use.
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Old Sunday 2nd April 2017, 20:09   #20
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I tested it myself, since I bought the camera and lens. The lens has to be very close to the eyepiece to lose vignetting. I used a file to remove the inner edge of the DCA adapter, so that it can be slid further over the eyepiece. Now it's fine. This modification could be useful for other lenses too.

I also tested something else. Compared to my Nikon 1 V1 + 18,5mm, I lose 2 stops of light (both wide open at same ISO). That was a bit disappointing, and I guess it's a result of the longer focal length (18,5 vs 35mm, both 50mm equivalent with their own sensor). With better ISO handling the Fuji wins 2 to 3 stops back.

Last edited by sjhaak : Sunday 2nd April 2017 at 20:25.
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Old Wednesday 5th April 2017, 21:00   #21
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First day in the field.

Spoonbill @ 100 meter, ISO 500
Black-tailed Godwit @ 50 meter, ISO 640
Bluethroat @ 20 meter, ISO 1600
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Old Wednesday 5th April 2017, 21:05   #22
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Nice shots sjhaak....
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