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Lesvos 05/05/05 - 19/05/05 (1 Viewer)

Sandra (Taylor)

Well-known member
This is our 7th or 8th visit to Lesvos - and they get better each time we go! Stayed at the Aegeon Hotel in Skala Kalloni on a B&B basis, as we did last year. Flew Manchester - Mytilini on Excel airlines and the tour operator was Manos. Weather was good for the two weeks, getting progressively hotter. One day and night of very strong winds. Lots of sunshine. The car was hired from Billy's in Anaxos and arranged and paid for before we left home. Avis has got gradually more expensive so we thought we'd try someone else this year. Very satisfatory.

Since the marsh in front of Kalloni II isn't a marsh any longer, we enjoy the outlook from the Aegeon over the wet scrubland then the sea. In fact, after the night of strong winds this area was a lake and took a few days to partly dry out again.

A little egret was the first bird to be seen from the hotel gardens. Swallows were swooping in and out of the hotel foyer. Two pairs seem to nest inside each year and they are tolerated by the management. Many more nested on the Kalloni II terrace up to last year but this season all the nests have been knocked down to discourage the birds. There was an indignant comment in the Kalloni II logbook from a group of Dutch birders saying how disappointed they were that this had happened.

Next morning saw two stone curlew from the breakfast terrace. A group from Celtic Bird Tours also stopped to look and we renewed our acquaintance with the leader, Geri.

The Inland Lake held little bittern, night heron, snakes, two species of terrapin, red-rumped swallow, little grebe. Long legged buzzard & Steppe eagle flew over. The eagle had to be identified by someone else by the way. They knew one had been reported in the area. Cirl bunting, turtle dove, red-backed shrike and lesser grey shrike were all seen on the track to the chapel from the lake. On the East River were little stint, black-headed bunting and some other birders called us to show us a nightingale singing in full view on the other side of the river.

On the saltpans were black-winged stilt, our first crested lark, avocet and flamingoes. There were many birders including two mini-buses full looking for rufus bush robin but neither this nor the red-throated pipit showed themselves today.

Saw middle-spotted woodpecker at nest near the long-eared owl roosting place. The next day we had the Kruper's nut-hatch feeding young in the usual site - but further into the woods. On the way back from this site we had both shelduck and ruddy shelduck.

Drove to Sigri, calling at Grand Canyon on the way for rock nut-hatch, crag martin, black-eared wheatear and blue rock thrush. Saw Long legged buzzard carrying a snake. Ipsolou Monastery was like Blackpool - hoards of people there. Some had had cinereous bunting. Caught up with jackdaw near the castle at Sigri. At Fenoromini Ford were 2 wood & 1 marsh sandpiper. A corncrake had been seen but two birders were walking down the riverbed where it had been so nobody saw it. Drove to Petrified Forest hoping for chukkar but it didn't appear. The Isabelline wheatear was again by the crossroads.

Next day drove to the upper East River where the house sparrows and middle-spotted woodpecker were disputing ownership of a nesting hole in a telegraph pole. (Think the woodpecker won by the end of our fortnight)
Took a track left then right and followed road up the hillside for rufous bush-robin. Heard hoopoe. Short-toed lark & common sandpiper in stream that runs through saltpans. Little owl on telegraph wires that evening.

Next day to Petra. Good views of Ruppell's warbler opp. the disco building on road back to Molivos. Watched big flock of swifts coming over the sea from taverna near Molivos castle.

Drove up through Agi Paraskevi to Napi Valley (doing a detour to the ancient bridge first - lots of red rumped swallows there. ) Since the road has been resurfaced there are very few places to pull off. They've left a 'step' of tarmac - and the road there isn't all that busy. Thought there would have been one or two laybys created. Watched a hoopoe visiting its nest - quite watchable from the side of the road into the olive grove. Sub-alpine warbler was singing. We took a road to the right which we had been told about and which I'm sure will become a big draw for bgirders in years to come. After about 2 miles you can pull off the track and we had hawfinch, orphean & olive-tree warblers, and I found us a golden oriole. I had thought it was a hoopoe as that was what I was hearing but when I looked it was just sitting inside the tree canopy. Went and brought husband and some other birders and they had brief glimpses of it too. (Husband had words with a Dutch photographer as we were looking at the hawfinch. He was pushing everyone else because he "must get a photo" but he had to wait! And another photographer caused some concern when he wandered right into the olive grove to get close views of a masked shrike sitting on a nest in the 'elbow' of a tree. (Sorry, Diane - think I said it was a woodchat shrike but it was a masked)

The poppies in the fields looked wonderful and there were still lots of other wild flowers looking good by the roadsides. Lots of butterfly species around. And some HUGE black flying beetly things that were gathering nectar from the newly flowered mallow plants.

Back to the Kruper's nut-hatch site but this time for short-toed tree creeper which we had missed the other day. Missed again! Drove through Achlideri south to Vatera. Then after a taverna stop, through the village to the headland where the ruined chapel is (and a tawny pipit), passing the river where there was a black stork and squacco heron. Half a dozen Y.Shearwaters at sea. Saltpans again when we returned - collard pratincole flying over. By now, rufus bush-robins seem to be everywhere.

Next day had black-headed yellow wagtail on sheep fields. Hen harrier (f) over saltpan fields where the next day we had good views of a pallid harrier. One or two Alpine swifts here too.

Drove up the Potamia Valley which was a delight. (Drive over the bridge then the right-hand track to follow the river). That afternoon had Scops owl at roost - excellent views. We had been told that last year a Scops owl had been disturbed from another roost site by foliage being trimmed away from it so a good photo could be taken. So we walked quickly away after we'd seen this one. Not quickly enough as two cars of people arrived and we were non-commital when they asked if we'd seen it. We just sort of muttered and got in the car. They starting looking for it - in the wrong trees!! Feel bad about this now - if it was you we're sorry but I'm sure you'll understand.

On Sunday went onto the saltpans for 10 mins., and were still there 3 hrs. later. There's always something to see there. This time it was the first batch of rose-coloured starlings. 2 gull-billed tern seen.

Next day saw Levant sparrow-hawk from the 'band stand' on the mountain road. The Monday was the first day we had had no new birds to report.
Tuesday and hubby had a spoonbill at the far end of the sheep fields which had been roosting with the flamingoes.

Rosy starlings were now being reported at different sites - usually in mulberry trees. At inland lake there was a couple of pallid swifts with the others.

Wow -talk about verbal diarrhoea! And this is just a condensed version! The other one is padded out with things other than birds. If anyone really wants that one too then by all means PM me.

Total bird list was 112 or 113. (Can't highlight the species mentioned here for some reason.)

Sandra
 
Great report, Sandra. I'm envious that you had two weeks.

Did we meet? I'm thinking about your above reference to the shrike. We were certainly on the same flight out. I'm still trying to do my report - I'm afraid it will be the FULL verbal diarrhoea version!
 
Megaphone?

'm intrigued - missed some postings of course - being away. That link doesn't give me anything. Who's Mrs. Megaphone - and where did you meet? I'm sure it's not me - my voice is quite quiet. Please elaborate or aim me in the right direction. I'll search more when I get home p.m.

Sandra
 
Lesvos

I bet we met at some time during the week Diane. Maybe you saw this fat woman with purple/pink hair on the plane? Did you eat in tavernas? Maybe there. You're not the lovely lady who looks a bit like Lisa Dingle are you? We chatted at the roadside up the Napi Valley? ....... gosh, you could be anybody! Really looking forward to reading your report.

Sandra
 
Sandra (Taylor) said:
I bet we met at some time during the week Diane. Maybe you saw this fat woman with purple/pink hair on the plane? Did you eat in tavernas? Maybe there. You're not the lovely lady who looks a bit like Lisa Dingle are you? We chatted at the roadside up the Napi Valley? ....... gosh, you could be anybody! Really looking forward to reading your report.

Sandra

Gotcha! Saw the hair.

Who's Lisa Dingle? Don't remember speaking to you up Napi Valley.

I was mostly wearing a beige Tilley hat with plaited braids around the band. We were a group of 12 split into two vans - one silver and one blue.
 
Lesvos

I'm sure I remember that hat. Was the guy with you wearing one too? We saw quite a few of those Tilley hats doubling as sun hats.

But isn't Lesvos smashing? I wish I could bottle the scent of the foliage - that scent you get as you go down the plane steps onto the island. I feel like booking right away for next year.

Lisa Dingle is a character in Emmerdale.

Sandra

:gh:
 
Sandra (Taylor) said:
'm intrigued - missed some postings of course - being away. That link doesn't give me anything. Who's Mrs. Megaphone - and where did you meet? I'm sure it's not me - my voice is quite quiet. Please elaborate or aim me in the right direction. I'll search more when I get home p.m.
Sandra
No Sandra, I knew that Dame Decibel couldn't be a BirdForum supporter! By the way, is there much at Vatera by way of accommodation, food stores, etc?
 
Sandra (Taylor) said:
I'm sure I remember that hat. Was the guy with you wearing one too? We saw quite a few of those Tilley hats doubling as sun hats.

But isn't Lesvos smashing? I wish I could bottle the scent of the foliage - that scent you get as you go down the plane steps onto the island. I feel like booking right away for next year.

Lisa Dingle is a character in Emmerdale.

Sandra

:gh:

Yes, the guy, otherwise known as Keith, my husband, was wearing a similar hat, but without the plaited trim. I think we were the only couple sporting similar hats, so you must have seen us. They actually make very good sun hats.

In fact, I think you may even have been in the row in front of us on the plane.

It was definitely a great place. We were thinking of going back later in the year, but it will probably be another year now.

Ah! Emmerdale. That's why I didn't know who you were talking about - I don't do soaps.
 
Vatera

No Andy. Don't think there's any shops though we weren't particularly looking. It's really out of the way - though currently being partially developed. A super big taverna - turn right when you reach the coast road. There are appartments you can rent, taking your meals in the taverna part. It didn't look geared up for visitors except one or two tavernas. But well worth a visit. And as I say - go further west and scan the river.

Sandra
 
Lesvos

[Should be just as mouth watering in late August. We've been in September and had lots to see. But the vegetation is a bit dried up then and the river hasn't much water in so you find your birds elsewhere. Hope your plans work out.

Sandra
 
Hi Sandra, Just wondered, as you were staying in Skala Kallonis, where you spent the evenings and your thoughts on the tavernas.
We spent most evenings in the DIONYSOS, a taverna just off the square, it was very good, a good friend of ours works there a waiter, Kostas.
Kostas was working there in 1995 when he 'spotted' a young English girl holidaying on the beach just opposite, Ashley was from Saddleworth, just over the pennines from us, and the rest as they say is history, they married and on our first visit to Lesvos they owned a taverna called 'Anna-Maria' after their first born. We spent almost every night with them and made good friends with them. They live in Dafia, just outside Kalloni, and Ashley was very heavily pregnant this time, we are eagerly awaiting a phone call, this will be their third child.
We had a couple of evening meals in the ENIGMA, not too bad, and one and only one, in the SEA HORSE, this was very poor, the service especially.
We had met a very pleasant couple from York on our travels off the beaten track from Napi, and spent two nights with them in a taverna adjoining the square, not sure of the name. After usually turning in after a tiring day at around 10.30, we found ourselves going back at 1am and the second night at 2pm, but its hols and who cares??
B :)
 
Can also vouch for Marriana's on a side road off the western end of the square.

Jason August should provide some reasonable waders-mainly on the saltpans but also on the pools of the dried-out East river & the Inland lake (if it still has some water). Goodies such as Marsh, Wood, Green, Curlew & Broad-billed Sandpiper should be possible along with both Stints & large numbers of Greater Flamingo. The Buntings will have moved on as will most of the Masked Shrikes but other passage Shrikes are likely & wandering parties of Kruper's Nuthatch are possible -there always seemed to be plenty to keep one busy. ;)
 
Kalispera

Sorry Kalispera - only just caught up with your reply about the tavernas in Skala Kalloni. We dined in the Enigma a few times and really liked it. Didn't try the Sea Horse. The others you mention - yes, tried and loved those too. Found there wasn't a great deal of difference in the menus offered in the various tavernas but were not disappointed in any of them. Nice story about Kostas. Can't say I knew who he was but I'm sure we shall know him. We liked Theo at the taverna in the square. He and his staff were so welcoming and greeted us like long-lost friends. I expect he does that to everyone though. Lovely people.

We even dined in the Kalloni II two evenings. We knew the set-up as we stayed there in 2003. A large buffet is served for 10 euros each. Our visit during our second week was disappointing as it turned out not to be a buffet but a 5 course meal - far too much to eat and not all that good I'm afraid. We should have had the courage to leave when we found out it wasn't a buffet........

Sandra
 
Sandra,

i have just posted a request for adivice on where to go in late october when I saw your marvellous report on Lesvos (not Lesbos- is there a connection with the word Lesbian- I seem to remember that there is?)

Have you been there in late October? If so were there many birds missing, as in moved on with their migration?

Cheers,

Padraig.
 
Padraig said:
Sandra,

i have just posted a request for adivice on where to go in late october when I saw your marvellous report on Lesvos (not Lesbos- is there a connection with the word Lesbian- I seem to remember that there is?)

Have you been there in late October? If so were there many birds missing, as in moved on with their migration?

Cheers,

Padraig.

Padraig,

It's Lesvos or Lesbos or Mytilene (the Isle of Sappho).

Sappho was a Greek poetess, the first recorded lesbian, who was born there. As far as I know, none of her poetry survives intact, although there are some snippets available on the 'net (though the parts I've read don't make too much sense (lost in translation?).

Cheers,

Andy.
 
october birding

Padraig said:
Sandra,

i have just posted a request for adivice on where to go in late october when I saw your marvellous report on Lesvos (not Lesbos- is there a connection with the word Lesbian- I seem to remember that there is?)

Have you been there in late October? If so were there many birds missing, as in moved on with their migration?

Cheers,

Padraig.
Padraig dont know how your finances are,but if you can get to Cape May.

http://www.capemaytimes.com/birds/cape-may-birds-by-the-month/october.htm

POP
 
Lesvos (October)

Hi Padraig,
One thing about October, I'm fairly convinced that the direct package holiday flights will have stopped by that time, BUT as you will see in my earlier posts on this thread, you can fly to Athens and then onto Lesvos, as we have done in the last two years.
Regards, Don
 
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