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Spain-Cazorla and Doñana (1 Viewer)

Pau Lucio

Birdwarching Spain: Top wildlife and bird watching
This is a 3-day bird watching trip report to Cazorla and Doñana from March 14th-20th. The combination of both sites is the perfect mix of habitats to watch a wide variety of wildlife and landscapes in South Spain.

Day 1.

It is 9:00 a.m. and Charlotte, Katy, Joe, James and I are leaving from Gandia (Valencia) to the largest Natural Park in Spain, “Cazorla, Segura y las Villas”. They have been visiting the family and wish to finish their holidays with a birding tour through Andalucia. At 10:45 we stop in one of the best step habitat in East Spain, the steppes of Albacete. The lagoons are full of Greater Flamingos, Common Shelducks, Gadwalls, Red-crested Pochards, Common Pochards, Teals, Avocets, Common Redshanks, Great Ringed Plovers, Black-winged Stilts, Dunlins, Ruffs, Avocets and Snipes. In addition, birds such as Spotless Starlings, Crested Larks, Meadow Pipits and lots of different finches move around the farms.

As I am searching the sky watching a Marsh Harrier, I spot 3 Great Bustards flying towards us! James says: “That’s really a good start”. Around 4:00 p.m. we get into the car and continue our journey towards Cazorla. Before we take the motorway, we find a Red Kite and a flock of 60 Rock Sparrows.
Two hours later we stop to have a coffee in a bar besides the road. A Hoopoe lands in a nearby post and a pair of Ravens display in the air. We get at dusk to our hotel in La Iruela, perfect time to check-in and have a traditional Spanish dinner.

Day 2.

Our first birding spot has been at the view point of Puerto de Las Palomas which is located over 1000 meters above sea level in the gorge of the Guadalquivir River. Woodlarks are perched in the wire, a pair of Ravens flies below us and Alpine Accentor sings. Ten minutes later, a Griffon Vulture offers a very close view as it soars. Charlotte is amazed! Ten minutes later more Griffon’s join.
Our next stop is in “el Chorro” where we enjoy magnificent views of Griffon’s displaying in the air and also nests with eggs. Large numbers of Red-billed Choughs fly from/to their nests in the crevices and a Peregrine Falcon crosses the sky. Blue Tits, Black Redstarts, Chaffinch and a Short-toed Treecreeper are also seen. In a nearby oak tree, I find two stunning Firecrests which give us the chance to photograph them. Charlotte and Katy are very pleased as it is their favourite bird and first lifer of the trip! The meadows are full of Iris and butterflies such as the Yellow Clouded and Little Blue.
After lunch we drive for one hour to reach the badlands of the South of the Park. As we get to the area, we observe 4 Corn Buntings perched in a blooming Almond Tree. Besides Thekla Larks, Rock Sparrows, Meadow Pipits, Choughs and Sardenian Warblers are also seen. A beautiful Black Wheatear sings from a rock, it is the second lifer of the tour!. Suddenly, a gorgeous Goshawk crosses fast the hills following the river allowing just me and James seen it. The wide smile of James speaks for itself!

Day 3.

Today we head for the high part of the mountains. A quick stop in the Puerto de las Palomas reveals a male Rock Bunting and a Black Redstart singing from a rock beneath us. Then, we walk the Cerrada de Utrero route during 1 hour. There we enjoy superb views of nesting Griffon Vultures and Craig Martins. Mistle Trushes, Coal Tits, Grey Wagtails and Ravens are also seen. After that, we continue the route seeing Red Deers, several Red Squirrels and Common Buzzards. The nearby meadows are cover by lilies, Crocus nevadensis and Crocus salzmannii.
The following stop is in the Poyos viewing point where we enjoy magnificent views of a Firecrest, Long-tailed Tits and Nuthatch. As we feel a bit tired after an intense birding day and considering that tomorrow will visit a promising steppe area in Sevilla, we decide to drive back to have an early dinner in the fantastic balcony of the Hotel. The breathtaking views of the restaurant overlooking the town of la Hiruela, it is the perfect place for continuing bird watching in Cazorla while we have dinner. A Peregrine Falcon and a Short-toed Eagle crosses the sky in front of us-absolutely brilliant. Serins, Robins, Barn Swallows and Black Caps are seen in the forest.

Day 4.

At 9:30 we head off from Cazorla to Doñana. During the journey, numerous Black Kites and a solitary Booted Eagle are seen. Tree hours later, we arrive to the lagoons of La Lantejuela. There, we have our picnic while we watch Greater Flamingos, Black-winged Stilts, Black-necked Grebes, Common Pochards, Marsh Harriers, a Cetti’s Warbler and a good number of White-headed Ducks, which is the third lifer of the trip. Katy finds on the floating trunks lots of Spanish terrapins sunbathing.
We continue the trip to our Hotel in el Rocio. After check in, we spend the last hours of the evening birding in the Rocio’s Marshes. Glossy Ibises, Spoonbills, Wood and Common Sandpiper, Common Redshanks, Great Ringed Plover, Little and Cattle Egret, White Storks Crested Larks and Black Kites are spread all over the marshes. I locate a Grasshopper Warbler and I heard two more. Greater Flamingos become restless as a herd of Red Deers walk across the marshes, much to everyone’s delight. It makes a sensational picture of the area. A few minutes later, I spot a Spanish Imperial Eagle perched. I quickly got it in the telescope and fabulous views are obtained of this top raptor. I show it to Charlotte as I know she is really keen on seen it. She is over the moon! Finally, as the sun sets a Wild Boar is seen on the opposite site of the marshes.

Day 5.

Today we have focus on the farmland and marshes which surrounds Villanueva and Isla Mayor. It is a superb area to increase the bird list with many species. Our first stop has been in a breeding colony of Spanish Sparrows, the fifth liver of the trip for Charlotte, Katy, Joe and James. As they are enjoying them, I spot a pair of Red-rumped Swallow building a nest. Five minutes later, a Calandra Lark flies over us displaying and then it is joined by a Short-toed Lark. As Joe rightly said” there is never a dull moment!”.
We follow the road finding Yellow wagtails, Zitting Cisticola, Glossy Ibises and more than 100 Purple-swamp hens together, what an incredible area!. After that, Katy finds a carcass with 4 Griffon Vultures feeding on it. It is lunch time and we stop at JAV visitor centre to have coffee and eat the sandwiches. After that, we continue the journey following the Guadiamar and getting excellent views of Marsh and Hen Harrier, Buzzards, a Black Stork and Great Spotted Cuckoo. Wood, Green and Common Sandpipers are regularly seen in the pools and ditches besides the road.

Day 6.

We have started the day searching for an elusive reptile which I know it would really impress the 4 birders I am guiding, the Chameleon. It is thought that they were introduced in the Iberian Peninsula centuries ago from Africa. They have been collected has a pet since then and they are currently located in a very restricted areas in Huelva, Cadiz and Malaga provinces. After 20 minutes of searching, I find one beautiful chameleon sunbathing in the top of a Broom tree. With no more time to spare, we move to the Odiel Marshes and follow the main road towards the sea. Numerous waders such as Grey Plovers, Turnstones, Sanderlings, Redshanks, Whimbrels, Greenshank, Wood Sandpipers and Curlews are observed in the low tide. James locates an Osprey perched in a post and a Peregrine flies very low chasing waders.
It is midday and we decide to have lunch on the dunes. Migrants such as Northern wheatear, Hoopoe and a pair of Woodchat Shrikes are arriving from the sea.
This year has been drier that an average year, so the Acebuche visitor centre has no water. For that reason we go straight to La Rocina where I immediately pick out two Booted Eagles, one pale and the other dark morph. A Spanish Imperial Eagle along with Marsh Harriers, Black and Red Kites fly all together, making it a perfect chance to observe the features of each species. Approachable Azure-winged Magpies move around the Stone Pines looking for food. From the hides, we manage to watch a group of 6 Purple Heron, a Chiffchaff and a Savi’s Warbler feeding on the reeds.
We have a wonderful 6-days tour to this incredible wildlife-rich area in Europe.

Many thanks to the group for making this special tour, one I will remember for a long time.
 
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