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short trip to Costa Rica (1 Viewer)

ovenbird43

Well-known member
United States
This week my husband and I traveled to Costa Rica for a few days, primarily to attend the joint meeting of the Association of Tropical Biology and Organization for Tropical Studies. I gave my talk on the first day of the conference, so I was able to sneak away for a little bit of birding toward the end of the week. This was my fourth visit to the country, so I wasn't expecting many lifers, mainly I wanted to enjoy a bit of tropical birding and take Tom out for a bit of exploration (this was his first trip).

A few logistics, for future reference for anybody interested:
We stayed at Hotel Rincon de San Jose for most of the week (we got a conference rate, normal rate $65 for a single), which was cozy and much more charming than typical chain hotels. The only downside was the long trek between our hotel (near downtown) and the conference venue, with a taxi ride costing anywhere between $20-40 for a half-hour ride. Fortunately our hotel arranged a shuttle for much cheaper. A taxi ride from the airport runs about $30.

We stayed for one night at Paraiso de Quetzales, a lodge within Tapanti National Park about an hour and half outside of San Jose in the Talamancas ($140 for us both, including dinner, breakfast, and a quetzal tour). To get there from San Jose, we took a bus toward San Isidro from the Musoc station and had the bus driver drop us off at the entrance road. From there it's a half-mile walk down the dirt road.

And now for the birds...

On June 26, after spending two full days at the conference, I left the hotel around 7 am and took a taxi to the University of Costa Rica campus. My target here was Prevost's Ground Sparrow, which according to the bird-finding guide is reliably found at the northeast corner of campus, by the nutrition school building. I wandered around campus for about an hour before I found the right area, all the while seeing numerous Crimson-fronted Parakeets overhead, Tropical Kingbirds, Rufous-collared Sparrows, Blue-gray Tanager, and Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher. Behind the nutrition building was a stream with secondary riparian forest with shrubs and grass, and a little table with a fruit feeder. Melodious Blackbirds and Blue-crowned Motmots were attending the fruit, and the area was rich in columbids: Red-billed Pigeon, White-winged Dove, Inca Dove, and White-tipped Dove. There were House Wrens, Plain Wrens, and Rufous-capped Warblers skulking in the shrubbery, and Clay-colored Thrushes feeding fledglings everywhere. I worked the edge of the stream for a good half hour, beginning to despair as I approached the edge of the property and the end of the habitat, but finally under a tree by the fence I spotted a distinctly ground-sparrow shape: sure enough, it was the Prevost's Ground Sparrow. I watched it as it foraged out in the open for a brief moment before retreating to the dense undergrowth by the stream. In the same area, I also spotted a pair of White-eared Ground Sparrows. Mission accomplished, I walked back to the entrance of the university, bought some empanadas to share with Tom, and caught a taxi back to the hotel.

I didn't take my camera to the university, but there will be lots of photos accompanying my report of Paraiso de Quetzales.
 
Paraiso de Quetzales

After lunch, Tom and I took a taxi to the Musoc station and bought our bus tickets toward San Isidro. It was roughly a two-hour trip to the lodge, including a stop at a restaurant/shop only 10 km before the lodge. From the highway, it was a fairly easy (downhill) 1 km walk down the dirt road leading to the lodge.

Tom wasn't used to the altitude and he decided to rest a bit, so I went for a hike on my own after checking in. The gardens around the cabins were quite birdy, with Long-tailed Silky-Flycatchers coming to some fruiting shrubs, a family of Large-footed Finches scraping about in the grass, and a few Sooty-capped Bush-Tanagers (common everywhere). I stopped briefly to admire the Fiery-throated and Magnificent Hummingbirds at the feeders, and then headed down the steep Zeledonia trail. Black-billed Nightingale-Thrushes were common and very confiding, some approaching me so closely as I crouched on the trail that I couldn't fit the entire bird into a photo frame! There were Collared Redstarts, and one strange redstart that appeared to be a hybrid collared/slate-throated. I ran into a mixed-species flock that stayed largely out of sight in the luxurious foliage, but I managed to pick out Yellow-winged Vireo and Ruddy Treerunner. After an hour I decided to return due to the threat of rain (for which I was unprepared), spotting a family of Black-and-yellow Silky-Flycatchers near the lodge as I returned. Sure enough, it began raining almost as soon as I entered the cabin. It drizzled off and on for the rest of the evening, so Tom and I mostly hung out together in the cabin or milled around the garden during brief lulls in the rain.

below: Black-and-yellow Silky Flycatcher, Fiery-throated Hummingbird, Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush, probable hybrid redstart, Long-tailed Silky Flycatcher
 

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The next morning I got up around 5 to search for Dusky Nightjar, which one of local guides said should be fairly easy to find around the building lights. Sure enough, after a mere 10 minutes of searching I spotted one perched on a sign, sallying out for insects attracted to one of the lights. Second life bird of the trip!

We met our guide, along with another couple staying at the lodge, for the quetzal tour (included with a night's stay) at 5:30. Since the quetzals are altitudinal migrants, tracking their preferred fruits, we piled into a truck to head downslope where they are more common this time of year. Slipping back down beneath the clouds, we headed down a dirt road toward a town called Copey, and eventually got out in a forested area by a stream. As we walked up the road, the guide pointed out the wild avocados that had fallen to the road, and sure enough he soon spotted a male Resplendent Quetzal feeding above us. This was perhaps a young (or just well-worn) male, gorgeous nonetheless, and a first for Tom. We enjoyed fantastic views for a while, eventually walking away to head back up for breakfast.

below: Resplendent Quetzal, Yellow-thighed Finch, Large-footed Finch, Collared Redstart, Magnificent Hummingbird
 

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After returning to the lodge and enjoying a tasty breakfast, I set out for another hike down the Zeledonia trail. This time, right below the hummingbird feeders, I stumbled upon a Zeledonia (Wrenthrush) barely more than arm's length away from me, offering superb views, although it disappeared into the undergrowth as soon as I got my camera up. Much of the trail was less active than it had been the day before, and since I therefore covered the trail more quickly than I anticipated, I started heading down the spur to the Caracol waterfalls. I was scanning through a mixed-species flock than included Spangle-cheeked Tanager among other previously-mentioned species when I heard a Costa Rican Pygmy-Owl calling from upslope. Another potential lifer, I abandoned the flock and started scrambling up a steep streambed toward the sound. It soon became apparent that the owl was VERY far upslope, and the terrain was only getting steeper and the undergrowth more tangled. So I returned to the trail and followed it back to the cabins, reasoning that I might be able to find the owl from above.

I found Tom when I reached the cabin, and together we set out to look for the owl. With the help of playback, we managed to located it and eventually get decent looks at the owl, although some hummingbirds chased it off before I could get a photo. We decided then to head down the Zeledonia trail together, because Tom hadn't been down it yet and he wanted to see the 1000-year-old mountain cypress. On our way back, Tom was trying to point me toward a small bird that he had spotted in the canopy when I saw a Resplendent Quetzal flying in the background. Surprised, we headed back down the trail to where I though it had landed, and there spotted a male and female on the same branch, the male an adult with full-length streamers- first time I had seen one with full streamers! They were too distant for good photos, but we enjoyed good views.

All too soon it was time to pack up, have lunch, and head back to San Jose for the rest of the conference. One of the staff kindly gave us a ride to the restaurant 10 km down the highway, where the buses stop, saving us from walking in the rain with our gear. We spent the rest of the day at the conference, and flew back to the states the next day.

photos: juvenile Sooty Thrush, Hairy Woodpecker, Sooty-capped Bush Tanager, juvenile Black-cheeked Warbler
 

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Slipping back down beneath the clouds, we headed down a dirt road toward a town called Copey, and eventually got out in a forested area by a stream. As we walked up the road, the guide pointed out the wild avocados that had fallen to the road, and sure enough he soon spotted a male Resplendent Quetzal feeding above us.

I am guessing you are talking about Copey de Dota and therefore probably walked or drove past El Toucanet Lodge (http://www.eltoucanet.com/ing.htm). This is the same area where I saw my first Quetzal also. The road beyond, which eventually leads to the small town of Providencia, is also excellent access for mid to high elevation birds.

Steve
 
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