iraqbabbler
Well-known member
Trip Report to South India / Western Ghats (17th April 2013 – 26 April 2013),
with K.V. Eldhose (professional birding guide)
Introduction:
As a birder who likes to travel and see the wondrous variety of birds around the world, India had always been on my mind, and it was a major gap that I had to “plug” some day. I had both the time and the inclination this year and I decided to go. The birds of India need no introduction from me, so I’ll sidestep that one; suffices to say that there are loads of birds there both in terms of variety and numbers !. I saw 210 bird species (21 endemics – about half of all Indian endemics) and got great photos too, and that was not during peak birding season !.
One issue for me was trying to work out where to go in India (it is a subcontinent after all). Firstly, I had the “north” in mind as I am especially interested in cranes, bustards and the like and I thought I’d go to Gujarat. However, I found that really difficult to organize both in terms of finding information and in terms of booking accommodation too. It would appear that the “north” of India gets much more attention on the international birding radar than does the “south”, with the result that most guides/accommodation places are heavily booked and not too bothered with birder inquiries, so I spent (wasted) much time trying to organize a trip to Gujarat and Corbett NP, and at the end got frustrated and abandoned that plan.
I was about to abandon my trip to India altogether when I came across Eldhose’s birdingsouthindia website. At first it looked too good to be true (both in terms of what birders can expect to see in south India and in terms of the cost of his set trip). Nevertheless, I decided to check it out and am I glad I did !. I contacted Eldhose and he organized everything by email swiftly and seamlessly and finally I was on my way to India.
The Trip:
► 16 April 2013 – 20 April 2013 Maria International Hotel:
I arrived in Kochi airport late at night on April 16th and was met by Eldhose and his driver who picked me up in his brand new Toyota Innova van and on to Maria International Hotel in Kothamangalam. Great night’s sleep at Maria (the best hotel of the whole trip).
For the following two days (17th and 18th April) I birded the wonderful Thattekad Bird Sanctuary with Eldhose assisted by two other great guides, Rajeev (who showed me my first Sri Lankan Frogmouth) and Sanu (who showed me Malabar Trogon both male and female). We birded different parts of Thattekad morning, afternoon and sometimes at night too which was wonderful to see some owl and nightjar species. We then visited Munnar on 19th April where we saw some target species including:
1. Nilgiri Pipit
2. Nilgiri Blue Robin
3. Nilgiri Flycatcher
4. Nilgiri Wood pigeon
5. Grey-breasted laughing thrush
6. Broad-tailed grassbird
7. Malabar whistling thrush
8. Small sunbird
9. Nilgiri Flowerpecker
10. Rufous Babbler.
► 20 April 2013 Jungle Homestay Thattekad:
Birded other sections of Thattekad and was lucky to get very close views of Indian River Tern. They were flying around no more than a couple of meters away. Also, did some really enjoyable evening and night birding where we managed to get fantastic views of an Indian Pitta that came right out in the open albeit at dusk. This really underscored the legend of Thattekad, as that Pitta sighting was out of season. We also managed to see owls, nightjars amongst plenty of other species.
► 21 April 2013 On the road to Mudumalai, overnight in Nest Inn Resort:
Early start (5:00am), and after a quick but tasty breakfast, we said goodbye to Thattekad and set off for Mudumalai. This is a long drive (more than 6 hours) and on reflection, I kind of regret cutting the one night in Trichur out of the original itinerary, which would have been a nice and restful pit stop.
Arrived in Mudumalai in the afternoon, and after checking in, dumping the gear and a quick shower and 30 minute lie down, we headed out birding.
► 22 - 24 April 2013 Nest Inn Resort:
For those three days we did much intensive birding morning and afternoon in Mudumalai National Park and one half day trip to some of the higher altitude areas around Ooty. Mudumalai lies in a plateau in the Western Ghats, where the landscape is flat and the vegetation is dominated by scrub and grasslands. It is easy birding and is absolutely full to the brim with an incredible variety of species. It is also very easy birding as the light vegetation works (as cover) to the birder’s advantage instead of hiding the birds. Indian Peafowl are common and abundant as well as Grey Junglefowl (especially in the moister areas). Our lead specialist guide here was the pleasant, hard working and highly knowledgeable Siddha (a local tribesman) who showed me great views of Brown Fish Owl on the second afternoon and a leopard (amongst other mammals) on a safari that same night !.
On the accurate and encouraging advice of Eldhose, I also did one afternoon safari in Bandipur Tiger Reserve (Karnataka) which is a continuation of Mudumalai. It was fantastic as I not only managed to get close views of an alpha male tiger, but also got to see and photograph a Changeable Hawk Eagle fighting with a Crested Serpent Eagle, amongst other bird species.
► 25 April 2013 Mysore Sandesh Hotel:
After breakfast, left Mudumalai and headed out to Mysore in Karnataka. I was delighted with seeing (and photographing) the target Indian Eagle Owl there, where in fact we managed to see three individuals at the site. We also did a boat trip at Ranganathittu Sanctuary where the highlights were Spot-billed Pelican, Great Thick Knee, Painted Storks and nesting Streak-throated Swallows, all of which can be seen close up and photographed from the boat.
► 26 April 2013 Reach Bangalore – end of trip:
Early start (6:00 am) drove out to Bangalore, and on the way stopped off at the last birding site (Ramanagara) where we observed the critically endangered Long-billed Vulture of which there were 7 individuals at that site.
After that, we drove to Bangalore where the trip ended.
Trip Highlights:
Eight species of owl, three species of nightjar, great views of tiger, leopard, Asian Sloth Bear feeding, long and close views of Indian Pitta, seeing the beautiful White-bellied Minivet and the plentiful Indian Peafowl In Mudumalai.
Logistics:
► Visa: India requires all foreign visitors to have a visa. Also note that you can only stay in India for as long as your visa’s validity, irrespective of when you enter the country.
► Accommodation: All my accommodation was arranged by Eldhose:
*Maria International Hotel – Kothamangalam/Thattekad: This was the best hotel I stayed in during the entire trip. It’s very clean, bright, comfortable, quiet, close to amenities, great food and friendly attentive staff. Ironically, it was much cheaper than some of the other hotels on the trip. The room at the back are nicer as they face a small river and some nice green scenery. No wi-fi but internet shop right outside the hotel.
*Jungle Bird Homestay Thattekad: This place is right in the middle of Thattekad Bird Sanctuary. It’s basic but very clean and the food here is absolutely fantastic (strictly vegetarian). I stayed here just the one night as it was convenient for some night birding and to be able to set off early for Mudumalai next morning. Suddha and her family will make you feel very welcome. No wi-fi.
*Nest Inn Resort: “Average” to “Poor” would be my rating for this place. It’s not really a resort, but a motel style place. It’s quiet and convenient for birding and the grounds are reasonably well maintained. However, it is very evident that the stingy owner pays pittance to his overworked staff (who are nonetheless pleasant and try their best), and is not bothered with investing any money to improve the furnishings/fittings of the place. The restaurant is average, but is probably one of the better places to eat in Mudumalai. I didn’t like them allowing their “pet” cat to roam around the kitchen, and they did nothing about it when I complained. There is a vegetarian restaurant in the village called Krishna’s which serves better food and even though it doesn’t look all too clean, I somehow felt more comfortable eating there. Free wi-fi in the reception area.
*Sandesh Hotel Mysore: This is the old wing of the Sandesh The Prince hotel, so I suppose it can be (and actually should be) called Sandesh The Pauper. This place is really old, and they haven’t bothered to maintain any sort of standard. The bedding is old and dirty, the bathrooms/toilets are no better and the lift does a very good impression of a JCB fighting with stubborn concrete. I only stayed there for one night, but it was truly horrible. AVOID AT ALL COST. In fairness to Eldhose, he was trying to minimize costs, and Mysore is a rip off city so there’s no obvious solution, except perhaps to plan your itinerary so as to see what you need to see there and drive off to sleep elsewhere.
*Shreyas Residency Bangalore: I stayed in this place on Eldhose’s advice, as I had a couple of days to spend in India before my departure flight. It is near the airport and is about 15 km north of the centre of Bangalore. The furniture and fittings are new and the room I stayed in was at the back so it was quiet too. Free wi-fi in the room.
Note: At Maria and the Jungle Homestay the bedding was clean and literally spotless, so there’s absolutely no issues there. Unfortunately, that was not the case in the other places, so in the Nest Inn and Shreyas, where the sheets had bedbug spots on them. I just asked for clean sheets which I got, and then asked them not to change those sheets !. At Sandesh, I had to look at three different sets of bed sheets before getting a clean one !.
► Food
This is a complex, controversial and contentious topic when it comes to India. There’s so much variety here and the cost is miniscule compared with other countries, but there’s the risk of getting sick. In fact, I did not get sick once in India and I attribute this to following some basic points:
1 – Eat where the locals eat. If a place has lots of people, the chances are the food there is freshly cooked.
2 – If you can’t cook it, peel it or wash it, don’t eat it.
3 – Stay vegetarian as meat can spoil more easily. I stayed vegetarian 90% of the time, and would have been happy if that was 200% of the time, as Indian vegetarian food is delicious, nutritious and kinder to your system.
4 – Avoid ice-cream, salads, undercooked food and seafood.
5 – Ask for “No Oil” wherever possible. Indians unfortunately love to smother their dishes in vegetable oil which can give you a stomach ache and also makes the food horrible in my opinion.
6 – Only drink bottled water/drinks, and avoid alcohol.
► Transport
*Air: I flew in to Kochi with AirAsia and flew out from Bangalore. South India is well served by major international airlines.
*Road: We were driven most of the time by the young and extremely professional driver Eldho K In Thatekkad it was in a compact 4x4 jeep, and for the rest of the trip it was in the Toyota Innova. I would highly recommend Eldho K for his polite friendly demeanor and also for his sharp vision – he helped spot wild elephants, a river otter and made the trip truly comfortable and enjoyable.
*Local: In Mysore and Bangalore, I used the local trishaws which are very cheap and efficient. Just make sure you agree on the fare beforehand.
► Safaris
Eldhose arranged the safaris for me, and I was most satisfied both with the standard as well as the results. There are many dodgy operators who have no real wildlife experience, and they just take visitors driving around in a jeep. I went on two safaris, one of which was with Siddha (he drove the jeep himself and had an assistant with a spotlight), and the other was with a very professional operator who found us the tiger and was very careful about not disturbing the wildlife.
List of Birds:
1 Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus
2 Grey Junglefowl Gallus sonneratii Endemic
3 Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus
4 Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha
5 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
6 Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala Near-threatened
7 Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans
8 Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus Near-threatened
9 Indian Black Ibis Pseudibis papillosa
10 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
11 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
12 Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii
13 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
14 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
15 Great Egret Ardea alba
16 Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia
17 Little Egret Egretta garzetta
18 Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis Near-threatened
19 Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger
20 Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis
21 Darter Anhinga melanogaster
22 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
23 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
24 Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus
25 Black Kite Milvus migrans
26 Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus
27 Indian White-backed Vulture Gyps bengalensis Critically endangered
28 Indian Vulture Gyps indicus Critically endangered
29 Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela
30 Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus
31 Shikra Accipiter badius
32 Indian Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis
33 Indian Spotted Eagle Aquila hastata
34 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
35 Changeable Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus
36 White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus
37 Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio
38 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
39 Common Coot Fulica atra
40 Yellow-legged Buttonquail Turnix tanki
41 Great Stone Curlew Esacus recurvirostris
42 Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus
43 Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus
44 Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus
45 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
46 River Tern Sterna aurantia Near-threatened
47 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida
48 Nilgiri Woodpigeon Columba elphinstonii Endemic Critically endangered
49 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
50 Spotted-necked Dove Streptopelia chinensis
51 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
52 Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica
53 Yellow-legged Green Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus
54 Grey-fronted Green Pigeon Treron affinis
55 Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea
56 Vernal Hanging Parrot Loriculus vernalis
57 Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri
58 Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala
59 Malabar Parakeet Psittacula columboides Endemic
60 Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus
61 Common Hawk-Cuckoo Cuculus varius
62 Grey-bellied Cuckoo Cacomantis passerinus
63 Common Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus
64 Blue-faced Malkoha Rhopodytes viridirostris
65 Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis
66 Collared Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena
67 Oriental Scops Owl Otus sunia
68 Indian Eagle-Owl Bubo bengalensis
69 Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis
70 Mottled Wood Owl Strix ocellata
71 Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum
72 Spotted Owlet Athene brama
73 Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata
74 Sri Lankan Frogmouth Batrachostomus moniliger
75 Grey Nightjar Caprimulgus indicus
76 Jerdon's Nightjar Caprimulgus atripennis
77 Indian Nightjar Caprimulgus asiaticus
78 White-rumped Spinetailed Swift Zoonavena sylvatica
79 Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis
80 Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba
81 Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata
82 Malabar Trogon Harpactes fasciatus
83 Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis
84 Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis
85 Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis
86 White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis
87 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
88 Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis
89 Common Hoopoe Upupa epops
90 Malabar Grey Hornbill Ocyceros griseus Endemic
91 Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris
92 White-cheeked Barbet Megalaima viridis Endemic
93 Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala
94 Malabar Barbet Megalaima malabarica
95 Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos nanus
96 Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis
97 Lesser Yellow-naped Woodpecker Picus chlorolophus
98 Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus
99 Common Flame-backed Woodpecker Dinopium javanense
100 Black-rumped Woodpecker Dinopium benghalense
101 Greater Flame-backed Woodpecker Chrysocolaptes lucidus
102 White-naped Woodpecker Chrysocolaptes festivus
103 Heart-spotted Woodpecker Hemicircus canente
104 Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura
105 Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis virgatus
106 Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus
107 Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus
108 Common Iora Aegithina tiphia
109 Large Cuckoo-shrike Coracina macei
110 Black-headed Cuckoo-shrike Coracina melanoptera
111 Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus
112 White-bellied Minivet Pericrocotus erythropygius
113 Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus
114 Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus
115 Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus
116 Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus
117 Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach
118 Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis
119 Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus
120 Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus
121 Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus
122 White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens
123 Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus
124 Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus
125 White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola
126 White-spotted Fantail Rhipidura albogularis
127 Asian Paradise-flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi
128 Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda
129 White-bellied Treepie Dendrocitta leucogastra Endemic
130 Common Magpie Pica pica
131 House Crow Corvus splendens
132 Large-billed Crow/Jungle Crow Corvus macrorhynchos
133 Great Tit Parus major
134 Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica
135 Dusky Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne concolor
136 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica
137 Streak-throated Swallow Petrochelidon fluvicola
138 Singing Bushlark Mirafra cantillans
139 Jerdon's Bushlark Mirafra affinis
140 Indian Bushlark Mirafra erythroptera
141 Malabar Lark Galerida malabarica Endemic
142 Sykes's Lark Galerida deva Endemic
143 Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix griseus
144 Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii
145 Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis
146 Plain Prinia Prinia inornata
147 Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius
148 Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus
149 Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer
150 Yellow-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus xantholaemus Endemic Vulnerable
151 White-browed Bulbul Pycnonotus luteolus
152 Yellow-browed Bulbul Acritillas indica
153 Square-tailed Black Bulbul Hypsipetes ganeesa
154 Flame-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus gularis
155 Broad-tailed Warbler Schoenicola platyurus Endemic Vulnerable
156 Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum
157 Booted Warbler Iduna caligata
158 Tickell's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis
159 Green Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus
160 Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides
161 Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris
162 Tytler's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus tytleri Breeding endemic Near-threatened
163 Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps
164 Indian Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus horsfieldii
165 Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra
166 Dark-fronted Babbler Rhopocichla atriceps
167 Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense
168 Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi
169 Rufous Babbler Turdoides subrufa Endemic
170 Jungle Babbler Turdoides striata
171 Yellow-billed Babbler Turdoides affinis
172 Nilgiri Laughing-thrush Garrulax cachinnans Endemic
173 Grey-breasted Laughing-thrush Garrulax jerdoni Endemic
174 Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poioicephala
175 Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus
176 Asian Fairy-bluebird Irena puella
177 Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea
178 Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis
179 Hill Myna Gracula religiosa
180 Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus
181 Common Myna Acridotheres tristis
182 Brahminy Starling Sturnus pagodarum
183 Malabar Starling Sturnia blythii
184 Malabar Whistling Thrush Myophonus horsfieldii Endemic
185 Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina
186 Indian Blackbird Turdus Simillimus
187 Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula
188 White-bellied Shortwing Brachypteryx major Endemic
189 Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis
190 White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus
191 Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicatus
192 Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata
193 Brown-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa muttui
194 Black-and-orange Flycatcher Ficedula nigrorufa Endemic Near-threatened
195 Nilgiri Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias albicaudatus Endemic Near-threatened
196 White-bellied Blue Flycatcher Cyornis pallipes Endemic
197 Tickell's Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae
198 Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis
199 Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons
200 Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos
201 Nilgiri Flowerpecker Dicaeum concolor
202 Purple-rumped Sunbird Leptocoma zeylonica
203 Crimson-backed Sunbird Leptocoma minima Endemic
204 Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus
205 House Sparrow Passer domesticus
206 Yellow-throated Sparrow Gymnoris xanthocollis
207 Indian Silverbill Lonchura malabarica
208 Black-throated Munia Lonchura kelaarti
209 Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus
210 White-browed Wagtail Motacilla maderaspatensis
211 Nilgiri Pipit Anthus nilghiriensis Endemic Vulnerable
Lists of Mammals:
1.Tiger
2.Leopard
3.Sloth Bear
4.Bonnet Macaque
5.Grey Langur
6.Nilgiri Langur
7.Sambar Deer
8.Spotted Deer
9.Barking Deer
10.Common Grey Mangoose
11.Malabar Giant Squirrel
12.Wild Pig
13.Three-Striped Palm Squirrel
14.Wild Elephant
15.Crocodile
16.Nilgiir Thar
with K.V. Eldhose (professional birding guide)
Introduction:
As a birder who likes to travel and see the wondrous variety of birds around the world, India had always been on my mind, and it was a major gap that I had to “plug” some day. I had both the time and the inclination this year and I decided to go. The birds of India need no introduction from me, so I’ll sidestep that one; suffices to say that there are loads of birds there both in terms of variety and numbers !. I saw 210 bird species (21 endemics – about half of all Indian endemics) and got great photos too, and that was not during peak birding season !.
One issue for me was trying to work out where to go in India (it is a subcontinent after all). Firstly, I had the “north” in mind as I am especially interested in cranes, bustards and the like and I thought I’d go to Gujarat. However, I found that really difficult to organize both in terms of finding information and in terms of booking accommodation too. It would appear that the “north” of India gets much more attention on the international birding radar than does the “south”, with the result that most guides/accommodation places are heavily booked and not too bothered with birder inquiries, so I spent (wasted) much time trying to organize a trip to Gujarat and Corbett NP, and at the end got frustrated and abandoned that plan.
I was about to abandon my trip to India altogether when I came across Eldhose’s birdingsouthindia website. At first it looked too good to be true (both in terms of what birders can expect to see in south India and in terms of the cost of his set trip). Nevertheless, I decided to check it out and am I glad I did !. I contacted Eldhose and he organized everything by email swiftly and seamlessly and finally I was on my way to India.
The Trip:
► 16 April 2013 – 20 April 2013 Maria International Hotel:
I arrived in Kochi airport late at night on April 16th and was met by Eldhose and his driver who picked me up in his brand new Toyota Innova van and on to Maria International Hotel in Kothamangalam. Great night’s sleep at Maria (the best hotel of the whole trip).
For the following two days (17th and 18th April) I birded the wonderful Thattekad Bird Sanctuary with Eldhose assisted by two other great guides, Rajeev (who showed me my first Sri Lankan Frogmouth) and Sanu (who showed me Malabar Trogon both male and female). We birded different parts of Thattekad morning, afternoon and sometimes at night too which was wonderful to see some owl and nightjar species. We then visited Munnar on 19th April where we saw some target species including:
1. Nilgiri Pipit
2. Nilgiri Blue Robin
3. Nilgiri Flycatcher
4. Nilgiri Wood pigeon
5. Grey-breasted laughing thrush
6. Broad-tailed grassbird
7. Malabar whistling thrush
8. Small sunbird
9. Nilgiri Flowerpecker
10. Rufous Babbler.
► 20 April 2013 Jungle Homestay Thattekad:
Birded other sections of Thattekad and was lucky to get very close views of Indian River Tern. They were flying around no more than a couple of meters away. Also, did some really enjoyable evening and night birding where we managed to get fantastic views of an Indian Pitta that came right out in the open albeit at dusk. This really underscored the legend of Thattekad, as that Pitta sighting was out of season. We also managed to see owls, nightjars amongst plenty of other species.
► 21 April 2013 On the road to Mudumalai, overnight in Nest Inn Resort:
Early start (5:00am), and after a quick but tasty breakfast, we said goodbye to Thattekad and set off for Mudumalai. This is a long drive (more than 6 hours) and on reflection, I kind of regret cutting the one night in Trichur out of the original itinerary, which would have been a nice and restful pit stop.
Arrived in Mudumalai in the afternoon, and after checking in, dumping the gear and a quick shower and 30 minute lie down, we headed out birding.
► 22 - 24 April 2013 Nest Inn Resort:
For those three days we did much intensive birding morning and afternoon in Mudumalai National Park and one half day trip to some of the higher altitude areas around Ooty. Mudumalai lies in a plateau in the Western Ghats, where the landscape is flat and the vegetation is dominated by scrub and grasslands. It is easy birding and is absolutely full to the brim with an incredible variety of species. It is also very easy birding as the light vegetation works (as cover) to the birder’s advantage instead of hiding the birds. Indian Peafowl are common and abundant as well as Grey Junglefowl (especially in the moister areas). Our lead specialist guide here was the pleasant, hard working and highly knowledgeable Siddha (a local tribesman) who showed me great views of Brown Fish Owl on the second afternoon and a leopard (amongst other mammals) on a safari that same night !.
On the accurate and encouraging advice of Eldhose, I also did one afternoon safari in Bandipur Tiger Reserve (Karnataka) which is a continuation of Mudumalai. It was fantastic as I not only managed to get close views of an alpha male tiger, but also got to see and photograph a Changeable Hawk Eagle fighting with a Crested Serpent Eagle, amongst other bird species.
► 25 April 2013 Mysore Sandesh Hotel:
After breakfast, left Mudumalai and headed out to Mysore in Karnataka. I was delighted with seeing (and photographing) the target Indian Eagle Owl there, where in fact we managed to see three individuals at the site. We also did a boat trip at Ranganathittu Sanctuary where the highlights were Spot-billed Pelican, Great Thick Knee, Painted Storks and nesting Streak-throated Swallows, all of which can be seen close up and photographed from the boat.
► 26 April 2013 Reach Bangalore – end of trip:
Early start (6:00 am) drove out to Bangalore, and on the way stopped off at the last birding site (Ramanagara) where we observed the critically endangered Long-billed Vulture of which there were 7 individuals at that site.
After that, we drove to Bangalore where the trip ended.
Trip Highlights:
Eight species of owl, three species of nightjar, great views of tiger, leopard, Asian Sloth Bear feeding, long and close views of Indian Pitta, seeing the beautiful White-bellied Minivet and the plentiful Indian Peafowl In Mudumalai.
Logistics:
► Visa: India requires all foreign visitors to have a visa. Also note that you can only stay in India for as long as your visa’s validity, irrespective of when you enter the country.
► Accommodation: All my accommodation was arranged by Eldhose:
*Maria International Hotel – Kothamangalam/Thattekad: This was the best hotel I stayed in during the entire trip. It’s very clean, bright, comfortable, quiet, close to amenities, great food and friendly attentive staff. Ironically, it was much cheaper than some of the other hotels on the trip. The room at the back are nicer as they face a small river and some nice green scenery. No wi-fi but internet shop right outside the hotel.
*Jungle Bird Homestay Thattekad: This place is right in the middle of Thattekad Bird Sanctuary. It’s basic but very clean and the food here is absolutely fantastic (strictly vegetarian). I stayed here just the one night as it was convenient for some night birding and to be able to set off early for Mudumalai next morning. Suddha and her family will make you feel very welcome. No wi-fi.
*Nest Inn Resort: “Average” to “Poor” would be my rating for this place. It’s not really a resort, but a motel style place. It’s quiet and convenient for birding and the grounds are reasonably well maintained. However, it is very evident that the stingy owner pays pittance to his overworked staff (who are nonetheless pleasant and try their best), and is not bothered with investing any money to improve the furnishings/fittings of the place. The restaurant is average, but is probably one of the better places to eat in Mudumalai. I didn’t like them allowing their “pet” cat to roam around the kitchen, and they did nothing about it when I complained. There is a vegetarian restaurant in the village called Krishna’s which serves better food and even though it doesn’t look all too clean, I somehow felt more comfortable eating there. Free wi-fi in the reception area.
*Sandesh Hotel Mysore: This is the old wing of the Sandesh The Prince hotel, so I suppose it can be (and actually should be) called Sandesh The Pauper. This place is really old, and they haven’t bothered to maintain any sort of standard. The bedding is old and dirty, the bathrooms/toilets are no better and the lift does a very good impression of a JCB fighting with stubborn concrete. I only stayed there for one night, but it was truly horrible. AVOID AT ALL COST. In fairness to Eldhose, he was trying to minimize costs, and Mysore is a rip off city so there’s no obvious solution, except perhaps to plan your itinerary so as to see what you need to see there and drive off to sleep elsewhere.
*Shreyas Residency Bangalore: I stayed in this place on Eldhose’s advice, as I had a couple of days to spend in India before my departure flight. It is near the airport and is about 15 km north of the centre of Bangalore. The furniture and fittings are new and the room I stayed in was at the back so it was quiet too. Free wi-fi in the room.
Note: At Maria and the Jungle Homestay the bedding was clean and literally spotless, so there’s absolutely no issues there. Unfortunately, that was not the case in the other places, so in the Nest Inn and Shreyas, where the sheets had bedbug spots on them. I just asked for clean sheets which I got, and then asked them not to change those sheets !. At Sandesh, I had to look at three different sets of bed sheets before getting a clean one !.
► Food
This is a complex, controversial and contentious topic when it comes to India. There’s so much variety here and the cost is miniscule compared with other countries, but there’s the risk of getting sick. In fact, I did not get sick once in India and I attribute this to following some basic points:
1 – Eat where the locals eat. If a place has lots of people, the chances are the food there is freshly cooked.
2 – If you can’t cook it, peel it or wash it, don’t eat it.
3 – Stay vegetarian as meat can spoil more easily. I stayed vegetarian 90% of the time, and would have been happy if that was 200% of the time, as Indian vegetarian food is delicious, nutritious and kinder to your system.
4 – Avoid ice-cream, salads, undercooked food and seafood.
5 – Ask for “No Oil” wherever possible. Indians unfortunately love to smother their dishes in vegetable oil which can give you a stomach ache and also makes the food horrible in my opinion.
6 – Only drink bottled water/drinks, and avoid alcohol.
► Transport
*Air: I flew in to Kochi with AirAsia and flew out from Bangalore. South India is well served by major international airlines.
*Road: We were driven most of the time by the young and extremely professional driver Eldho K In Thatekkad it was in a compact 4x4 jeep, and for the rest of the trip it was in the Toyota Innova. I would highly recommend Eldho K for his polite friendly demeanor and also for his sharp vision – he helped spot wild elephants, a river otter and made the trip truly comfortable and enjoyable.
*Local: In Mysore and Bangalore, I used the local trishaws which are very cheap and efficient. Just make sure you agree on the fare beforehand.
► Safaris
Eldhose arranged the safaris for me, and I was most satisfied both with the standard as well as the results. There are many dodgy operators who have no real wildlife experience, and they just take visitors driving around in a jeep. I went on two safaris, one of which was with Siddha (he drove the jeep himself and had an assistant with a spotlight), and the other was with a very professional operator who found us the tiger and was very careful about not disturbing the wildlife.
List of Birds:
1 Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus
2 Grey Junglefowl Gallus sonneratii Endemic
3 Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus
4 Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha
5 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
6 Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala Near-threatened
7 Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans
8 Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus Near-threatened
9 Indian Black Ibis Pseudibis papillosa
10 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
11 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
12 Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii
13 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
14 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
15 Great Egret Ardea alba
16 Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia
17 Little Egret Egretta garzetta
18 Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis Near-threatened
19 Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger
20 Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis
21 Darter Anhinga melanogaster
22 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
23 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
24 Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus
25 Black Kite Milvus migrans
26 Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus
27 Indian White-backed Vulture Gyps bengalensis Critically endangered
28 Indian Vulture Gyps indicus Critically endangered
29 Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela
30 Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus
31 Shikra Accipiter badius
32 Indian Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis
33 Indian Spotted Eagle Aquila hastata
34 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
35 Changeable Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus
36 White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus
37 Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio
38 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
39 Common Coot Fulica atra
40 Yellow-legged Buttonquail Turnix tanki
41 Great Stone Curlew Esacus recurvirostris
42 Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus
43 Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus
44 Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus
45 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
46 River Tern Sterna aurantia Near-threatened
47 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida
48 Nilgiri Woodpigeon Columba elphinstonii Endemic Critically endangered
49 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
50 Spotted-necked Dove Streptopelia chinensis
51 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
52 Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica
53 Yellow-legged Green Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus
54 Grey-fronted Green Pigeon Treron affinis
55 Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea
56 Vernal Hanging Parrot Loriculus vernalis
57 Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri
58 Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala
59 Malabar Parakeet Psittacula columboides Endemic
60 Jacobin Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus
61 Common Hawk-Cuckoo Cuculus varius
62 Grey-bellied Cuckoo Cacomantis passerinus
63 Common Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus
64 Blue-faced Malkoha Rhopodytes viridirostris
65 Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis
66 Collared Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena
67 Oriental Scops Owl Otus sunia
68 Indian Eagle-Owl Bubo bengalensis
69 Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis
70 Mottled Wood Owl Strix ocellata
71 Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum
72 Spotted Owlet Athene brama
73 Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata
74 Sri Lankan Frogmouth Batrachostomus moniliger
75 Grey Nightjar Caprimulgus indicus
76 Jerdon's Nightjar Caprimulgus atripennis
77 Indian Nightjar Caprimulgus asiaticus
78 White-rumped Spinetailed Swift Zoonavena sylvatica
79 Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis
80 Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba
81 Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata
82 Malabar Trogon Harpactes fasciatus
83 Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis
84 Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis
85 Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis
86 White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis
87 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
88 Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis
89 Common Hoopoe Upupa epops
90 Malabar Grey Hornbill Ocyceros griseus Endemic
91 Indian Grey Hornbill Ocyceros birostris
92 White-cheeked Barbet Megalaima viridis Endemic
93 Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala
94 Malabar Barbet Megalaima malabarica
95 Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos nanus
96 Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis
97 Lesser Yellow-naped Woodpecker Picus chlorolophus
98 Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus
99 Common Flame-backed Woodpecker Dinopium javanense
100 Black-rumped Woodpecker Dinopium benghalense
101 Greater Flame-backed Woodpecker Chrysocolaptes lucidus
102 White-naped Woodpecker Chrysocolaptes festivus
103 Heart-spotted Woodpecker Hemicircus canente
104 Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura
105 Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis virgatus
106 Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus
107 Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus
108 Common Iora Aegithina tiphia
109 Large Cuckoo-shrike Coracina macei
110 Black-headed Cuckoo-shrike Coracina melanoptera
111 Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus
112 White-bellied Minivet Pericrocotus erythropygius
113 Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus
114 Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus
115 Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus
116 Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus
117 Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach
118 Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis
119 Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus
120 Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus
121 Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus
122 White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens
123 Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus
124 Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus
125 White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola
126 White-spotted Fantail Rhipidura albogularis
127 Asian Paradise-flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi
128 Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda
129 White-bellied Treepie Dendrocitta leucogastra Endemic
130 Common Magpie Pica pica
131 House Crow Corvus splendens
132 Large-billed Crow/Jungle Crow Corvus macrorhynchos
133 Great Tit Parus major
134 Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica
135 Dusky Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne concolor
136 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica
137 Streak-throated Swallow Petrochelidon fluvicola
138 Singing Bushlark Mirafra cantillans
139 Jerdon's Bushlark Mirafra affinis
140 Indian Bushlark Mirafra erythroptera
141 Malabar Lark Galerida malabarica Endemic
142 Sykes's Lark Galerida deva Endemic
143 Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix griseus
144 Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii
145 Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis
146 Plain Prinia Prinia inornata
147 Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius
148 Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus
149 Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer
150 Yellow-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus xantholaemus Endemic Vulnerable
151 White-browed Bulbul Pycnonotus luteolus
152 Yellow-browed Bulbul Acritillas indica
153 Square-tailed Black Bulbul Hypsipetes ganeesa
154 Flame-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus gularis
155 Broad-tailed Warbler Schoenicola platyurus Endemic Vulnerable
156 Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum
157 Booted Warbler Iduna caligata
158 Tickell's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis
159 Green Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus
160 Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides
161 Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris
162 Tytler's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus tytleri Breeding endemic Near-threatened
163 Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps
164 Indian Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus horsfieldii
165 Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra
166 Dark-fronted Babbler Rhopocichla atriceps
167 Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense
168 Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi
169 Rufous Babbler Turdoides subrufa Endemic
170 Jungle Babbler Turdoides striata
171 Yellow-billed Babbler Turdoides affinis
172 Nilgiri Laughing-thrush Garrulax cachinnans Endemic
173 Grey-breasted Laughing-thrush Garrulax jerdoni Endemic
174 Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poioicephala
175 Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus
176 Asian Fairy-bluebird Irena puella
177 Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea
178 Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis
179 Hill Myna Gracula religiosa
180 Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus
181 Common Myna Acridotheres tristis
182 Brahminy Starling Sturnus pagodarum
183 Malabar Starling Sturnia blythii
184 Malabar Whistling Thrush Myophonus horsfieldii Endemic
185 Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina
186 Indian Blackbird Turdus Simillimus
187 Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula
188 White-bellied Shortwing Brachypteryx major Endemic
189 Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis
190 White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus
191 Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicatus
192 Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata
193 Brown-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa muttui
194 Black-and-orange Flycatcher Ficedula nigrorufa Endemic Near-threatened
195 Nilgiri Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias albicaudatus Endemic Near-threatened
196 White-bellied Blue Flycatcher Cyornis pallipes Endemic
197 Tickell's Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae
198 Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis
199 Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons
200 Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos
201 Nilgiri Flowerpecker Dicaeum concolor
202 Purple-rumped Sunbird Leptocoma zeylonica
203 Crimson-backed Sunbird Leptocoma minima Endemic
204 Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus
205 House Sparrow Passer domesticus
206 Yellow-throated Sparrow Gymnoris xanthocollis
207 Indian Silverbill Lonchura malabarica
208 Black-throated Munia Lonchura kelaarti
209 Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus
210 White-browed Wagtail Motacilla maderaspatensis
211 Nilgiri Pipit Anthus nilghiriensis Endemic Vulnerable
Lists of Mammals:
1.Tiger
2.Leopard
3.Sloth Bear
4.Bonnet Macaque
5.Grey Langur
6.Nilgiri Langur
7.Sambar Deer
8.Spotted Deer
9.Barking Deer
10.Common Grey Mangoose
11.Malabar Giant Squirrel
12.Wild Pig
13.Three-Striped Palm Squirrel
14.Wild Elephant
15.Crocodile
16.Nilgiir Thar
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