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Help w/ A95 Vortex Skyline combo (1 Viewer)

Hi,
I've been trying to digiscope with the Vortex Skyline 80mm w/ED glass, the Vortex MK1 adapter and the canon A95 camera. I'm having a very difficult time getting a sharply focussed photo.
The process I have migrated to is follows:
(1) Focus on bird with scope.
(2) Insert camera into adapter
(3) Zoom to get rid of most vignetting. (Use autofocus)
(4) Manually snap photo using 2 sec. delay timer.
- Camera settings are per John Henry's recommendations post.

I have been basically trying to improve the focus/sharpness first, then work on brightness, then vignetting. I assume that there is interaction between these as well.
I am now getting some photos that are better focused at around 35x but none at 20x.
Here are three samples:
(1) Can at 20x at approx. 30ft.
(2) Can at 35x at approx. 30ft.
(3) Dove at 35x at approx. 50-60ft.

Any suggestions?
 

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I don't know that I can help with your specific problem but I suffered a great deal of slightly fuzzy shots with my A95 until I started to focus my scope wearing my glasses, I only ever wear glasses for very close work and have no need of glasses normally, even for reading, but I have found that I need to back the scope off just a touch from what to my naked eye is perfect focus.
 
It could be that but I think it looks more like a little camera shake. I know people have recommended using the delay mechanism but when handholding it may not eliminate shake. May I suggest you get a remote release cable and adapter that is what I use when digiscoping and I use an A95. I find it much better after all holding a camera still for 2 seconds can be an eternity!
 
Set your focus mode to "spot".
Set your shooting mode to "macro".
Use a cable release.
Use auto focus.
Focus scope as sharply as posible on camera lcd display.

If you can't make a cable release, let me know and I will send you a photo of one that I made for my Canon A640 along with some brief instructions.

Use as little zoom as possible. Just enough to eliminate vignetting should suffice. If subject is darker or lighter than surrounding area, use the spot metering function.
 
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Thanks guys.

II don't doubt that the shake is a big contributor. There was quite a bit of improvement in going from just pushing the button to a 2 second delay. I guess I should try a 10 sec. delay on a stationary inanimate object to verify that this is the "big" contributor.

I have been focussing with the scope mostly as trying to focus with the LCD has been hard. I will try the manual focus which provides a "zoomed" depiction in the lcd.

Texun, It would be helpful if you could provide instructions for constructing a cable release mechanism. I agree that would really help.

I'll let you know how the experiments go tomorrow.

thanks again,
trex
 
Shutter release bracket

The pictures tell most of the story. Material is 1/8th. X 1/2 aluminum from Home Depot. I start with the hole that accomodates the 1/4-20 mounting screw and continue bending to fit in a bench vise. The shutter release requires that you drill and tap for a 6-36 0r 6-40 thread. Force thread the release onto the bracket. Either use a bit of Loctite in the process or some Epoxy after the release is threaded in. Enjoy your new release and sharper images. This method can easily be adapted many other brands of cameras.
 

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