Costa Rica, Part 1 - Manzanillo (1 Viewer)

Note: This is the novel length version of gdhunter’s report:
(http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=254920)


Feb. 20
We arrive in Costa Rica again! Liz and I have not grown tired of visiting this beautiful and exotic country for birding and the mild adventure of traveling. On this trip, from February 20th to March 6th, we joined Gary and Danny from the western U.S., birding friends we traveled with on a 2012 trip to the Osa Peninsula.
The four of us chose a moderately expensive but relaxing style of transport within the country for our day of arrival. In early afternoon, Mainor Delgado of Friendly Costa Rica (http://www.friendlycostarica.com/) picked us up at the Alajuela airport (with fresh pizzas from his business in San Ramon!), took us for a grocery shopping trip to the local Walmart and headed expertly east through the morass of San Jose and the mountains of Braulio Carrillo. We made a quick stop, fortunately between rain showers, at El Tapir, finding four species of Hummingbirds (Green Thorntail, Snowcap, Rufous-tailed and Violet-headed) and six species of Tanagers before continuing on to our destination on the extreme southeastern coast.
Arriving well after dark and tired from 14 hours of traveling, we located our host and the key for the cabin Gary had rented, saving closer inspection for morning.

Feb. 21
The three bedroom cabin was the Casa De Aquiler, one of the properties owned by Sandra Aquiler and family,
(http://casasdealquilermanzanillo.jimdo.com/galeria-de-fotos/). It was situated in a cluster of similar, small buildings just over one half mile (.9km) before the entrance to the town of Manzanillo. Gary and Danny were to stay there for about a month and so negotiated a very good rate. So inexpensive was the rent that before our arrival, we began to wonder about what amenities that we take for granted in the US may be missing from our tropical and humble abode.
The first morning then was a time of exploration and excitement. I generally find it difficult to smile at 4:30 in the morning but the Howler Monkeys that woke me on that first morning forced me into breaking that pattern. A Little Tinamou and a Spectacled Owl also called in between the sounds of the all night rooster. Light rain had begun to fall sometime in the early morning and continued dripping for several hours. The good news is that the house had window screens, good water pressure and a nice view from the porch.
We had retained Mainor and his van for the day and headed for Manzanillo for breakfast at the Manzanillo hostel (http://www.marysolhostel.com/) and some in town birding. Which was not all that bad, especially considering we were all fleeing the winter season in the US. Magnificent Frigatebirds and Brown Pelicans sailing by reminded us the ocean was very close. Gray-necked Wood-Rails foraged in the grass and Long-tailed Tyrants occupied telephone poles. Social Flycatchers and Black-cheeked Woodpeckers were common but much appreciated.
Saving more thorough city birding for another day, we drove to Puerto Viejo Botanical Gardens to find it closed for the day so we continued on to the town of Bribri, last chance for food, gas or anything else before the Panama border. We passed through the town and followed a gravel road that paralleled the Sixaola River, stopping for birds. We didn’t know it at the time but this would be the best chance we would get at open country birding as most of the area around Manzanillo is primary or older secondary forest. Birds of Bribri, the Laughing Falcon, the Striped Cuckoo, Groove-billed Ani and Yellow-crowned Euphonia wouldn’t be seen again.
Lunch in Bribri at a second floor restaurant overlooking the street activity was enjoyable and more of the Tico food we enjoy so much. Many, if not most, of the town’s inhabitants are of native Indian descent and this was evident in the restaurant’s name.
Back at Casa de Aquiler, we got more acquainted with our more common yard birds, the Great Kiskadee, Social and Gray-headed Flycatcher, nesting Chestnut-mandibled Oropendulas and Cinnamon Becards, Passerini Tanager, Long-billed Hermit visiting the heleconias, House Wren , Bananaquit and Buff-throated Saltator. We set up fruit and hummingbird feeders and said goodbye to Mainor who faced a long drive back to the Central Valley that evening. A calling Pauraque put us to bed.

Photos from Bribri.

Feb. 22
A short walk from our casa along the quiet highway towards Manzanillo, there is a gravel road going nearly a mile (1.4km) southeast into the Gandoca-Manzanillo Reserve,
(http://www.costaricabureau.com/nationalparks/gandocamanzanillo.htm), a huge patch of protected forest of which we were nearly in the center. The road was built mainly as access to a recreational area for employees of RECOPE, the Costa Rican petroleum refinery business, and is thus named Recope Road. The road goes well past the center and ends near a horse pasture. We were excited to bird this road; it appeared to provide our easiest access to birding deep in the reserve. An early start to catch the dawn chorus was clearly the way to go but we were delayed again, waking to rain on our metal roof after a night of barking dogs (but strangely, no rooster). After a slight delay until the wet weather abated, we were on RECOPE road, birding there until early afternoon. This real estate web site has a number of pictures to give you an idea of what the habitat was like near the RECOPE recreation area:
http://www.caribesur-realestate.com/properties/detail_propv6.asp?PID=CS01888
Some fun birds that morning; some of the better ones were Slaty-tailed Trogon, Chestnut-colored, Pale-billed and Black-cheeked Woodpeckers, Tawny-chested Tanager, Stripe-throated Hermit, a Bat Falcon with a meal, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Crested Guan, Mealy Parrot (the most common parrot species while we were in Manzanillo), Purple-throated Fruitcrow and Stripe-throated Hermit. We needed someone like Patrick O’Donnell to help us identify the myriad bird sounds. Fortunately, we had contacted him from the States about joining us in Manzanillo and he was waiting for us when we returned in mid-afternoon.
For some unremembered reason, I went by myself down a single lane drive close to the cluster of cabins, a narrow track we would use many times in the coming days for convenient birding. After passing a short series of cabins, the road narrowed and became a trail, leading to parts unknown, though we were told later that it was used by locals and a guide would be necessary to keep from getting lost.
While I was off mapping our boundaries, the group at the casa managed to get a good look at a Blue-headed Parrot and were watching a Sulphur-rumped Tanager when I got back, both new birds for most of us. Tanagers, including the Sulphur-rumped, seemed to relish the fruits of a nearby tree. This tree, a pair of flowering Inga trees and a third tall tree with some seeds that attracted several species of Parrots were visible from our yard and became focal points for casual birding. The more distant Inga tree attracted Hummingbirds and Honeycreepers.

More from our second day.

Feb. 23
Night rain again, continuing after dawn, heavy enough to drown out any other night noises. It didn’t slow us down for long as our group of five headed north in Patrick’s car to the Puerto Viejo Botanical Gardens. We arrived well before the opening time of 10 am, leaving the rain behind, and walked for some time on a path through the adjacent forest. The going was muddy and slick with the recent rains but Patrick managed to find some good birds for us, calling in a Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant from the upper levels to photo shot level. We finally saw a Bright-rumped Attila, having heard them regularly over the past several days. Their easily recognizable, maniacal call is one of my favorites. Leaving that road, we watched a Giant Cowbird get chased by a pair of Oropendolas. A quick stop at the beach produced a Whimbrel, Semi-palmated Plover and a Spotted Sandpiper.
Another area we tried was along the road to El Tucan Lodge, just south of Puerto Viejo, (http://www.eltucanjunglelodge.com/). Here, Liz and I got our first looks at Black-throated Wren, a commonly heard bird but for us, never before seen.
Patrick, Liz and I lunched in Manzanillo (El Rinconcito Alegre) and were entertained by birds in a constantly active patch of second growth across the street. I noted White-lined Tanagers and Ruddy Ground-Doves, new for this trip. The species count was close to 20 in that hour we ate.
Regrouping back at Casa De Aquiler, we walked as a group down the narrow road near our casa. Traveling further than I had the previous day, we did well, mostly thanks to Patrick’s skills. Called in from the canopy, we had reasonably good looks at a Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher and a Pied Puffbird in the canopy , both new birds for us four gringos. Besides the excellent birding, also testament to the quality of the forest, was our only group of spider monkeys we were to see on this trip. We have all been aware of the daily migration of Turkey Vultures but today we we fortunate to also see a large kettle of Swallow-tailed Kites, which we estimated at close to 200 birds. Quantity as well as quality.
Patrick and I had the energy left that evening to revisit this same area and try for some night birds. Vermiculated Screech Owl was heard almost immediately but declined to investigate our recording. We heard two more owls, Mottled and Crested and the odd growl of a Great Potoo. Pauraques rounded out our heard-only list of species. Standing in a very dark jungle, listening to some very odd noises and armed only with a 5 inch flashlight, is not on the normal tourist itinerary but I enjoyed the experience immensely.

The gardens surrounding our casa included a dense patch of Heleconias. My favorite visitor to this patch was a Blue-black Grosbeak.

The Eyelash Viper was on a cement fence post not far from our rental house.

Pulperia Jessiel was owned by the family that rented us our casa and a one minute walk away from our front door. Equivalent to a American convenience store, it held an amazing variety of necessary items.

Feb. 24
RECOPE Road today, from early morning to early afternoon in dry though overcast weather. The bird life kept us entertained; as usual, Patrick bore the brunt of finding and identifying. The list for early Sunday included Cinnamon Woodpecker, Scarlet-rumped Cacique, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Slaty-tailed Trogon, Rufous-winged Woodpecker and Double-toothed Kite. One new species we worked hard for was a calling bird, high in the canopy, that sounded very much like a Broad-winged Hawk. Only it turned out to be a Semi-plumbeous Kite! Thanks to Patrick for sticking with the search for the bird, it was eventually located and identified.
For those who also might someday want to walk this road, there are two explorable side roads leaving from RECOPE Road, both leaving to the right. We named one of them the Appliance Road because of the mini dump at the head of it. That road ended at a worn out bridge with a trail continuing beyond. Enticing but we never found time to revisit. The other was a long entrance drive to the rental cottage, El Arbol, (http://www.elarbolcostarica.com/). The location looked ideal for Manzanillo forest birding. On one visit near the rental house, Liz and I found a nesting pair of Band-tailed Barbthroats but never found the time or the dry weather to get back and try to get photos or a video.
When our group reached the end of RECOPE Road, we all got the chance to observe the mating dance of the Band-tailed Barbthroat. Here, I was able to get some video footage which I will eventually put online.
On our return, a Blue-throated Parrot was spotted and I finally got my first view through Patrick’s scope.
In mid-afternoon, Patrick left for his home in the mountains, leaving us with a long and much appreciated list of life birds. He wrote about his visit in his Costa Rica birding blog and included some better picture than we were able to get:
http://birdingcraft.com/wordpress/2013/02/25/fun-weekend-birding-in-manzanillo/
It should be mentioned that a good percentage of the RECOPE Road understory is made up of cocoa trees, remnants of the industry that was destroyed for profitable commercial use in the 1980’s. The distinctive reddish leave color and their broad, regular shape made them easy to separate from the rest of the lush greenery. How this affects the bird population is up for anyone’s conjecture.
Before evening rain began, we stayed near the house, watching feeders and birds in the immediate area.
Heavy rain at night, drowning out the sounds of monkeys, owls and the neighborhood rooster.

The elusive Kite and birds of the garden.

Feb. 25
There is a well traveled, 3 mile (5 km) long trail generally following the coast in an easterly direction, connecting Manzanillo with Punta Mona. We had all planned on trying this trail today but a light rain kept Gary and Danny at the cabin while Liz and I left early and walked to the main bus stop, needing to make some inquiries about the bus schedule. We birded as we walked, finding Red-throated Ant-Tanagers, a Purple-crowned Fairy and a pair of Slaty-tailed Trogons along the main road. Also, a Common Black-Hawk was noted, possibly one we had seen previously along the road.
Taking a side trip down a driveway marked Villa Noor, we found a couple of Chestnut-backed Antbirds. The river at the end of this short drive was the real attraction but our wishes for a Pygmy or Green-and-Rufous Kingfisher were not granted. We passed by a short hedge of porterweed as we entered the residential area of town, briefly watching Blue-chested and Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds. A nesting Ruddy-ground Dove was seen in a low shrub; Social Flycatchers were nest building on a electrical pole in the same area. Not long after getting what we hoped was accurate information directly from the driver at the main bus stop near Maxi’s Restaurant and Bar, the rain slowed then stopped and we made our way towards the coast trail.
We passed a soccer field that held a Roadside Hawk and a foraging Whimbrel. A Northern Waterthrush strutted along a fresh rain puddle and Pale-vented Pigeons called from the tops of palms that lined the road. Near the beginning of the trail at the east end of town, we heard a Crake call twice in a small patch of reeds but were unable to draw it out and could not determine the species. This is an active spot for birds, with open water for Green and Ringed Kingfishers, marshy areas for Green Heron, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, Spotted Sandpiper, Gray-necked Wood-Rail and Black-striped Sparrows as well as Variable Seedeater and Long-tailed Tyrant low and high.
Crossing a narrow, low area that floods at high tide, we entered the coastal trail only birding a short distance before Gary and Danny caught up with us while we watched a group of Tawny-crested Tanagers. Numerous but shy, we never could get a decent picture of these shadowy birds. The trail soon deteriorated into a mud walk and we turned around where it makes a bend to the southeast at a picturesque overlook. Though we saw a Snowy Egret, a Frigatebird or two and a Brown Pelican, not a single Gull or Tern was seen in our entire week in the Manzanillo area. All other shore birds were uncommon or non-existent as well.
There seemed to be plenty of bird activity in Manzanillo as we meandered through the streets. Near a school at the east end, Liz and I bushwhacked past a broken fence and over boggy ground to a narrow, wooded stream, hoping for a small Kingfisher. We “settled” for some more common birds, Bay Wren, Cocoa and Black-striped Woodcreepers and a close look at a Plain Xenops. In one vacant lot, we found a Great Antshrike buried in a tangle of vines and shrubs under a palm. Collared Arcaris pulled fruits from a tree on on side of the lot and three Oriole species - Baltimore, Orchard and Black-cowled - worked another tree with smaller berries. Summer Tanagers in various stages of plumage were also there, competing for our attention with Keel-billed Toucans flying overhead, Great Kiskadees calling from the wires, a pair of Buff-throated Saltators at eye level and Thick-billed Seed-Finches along the gravel roadside. Oropendulas, almost all Chestnut-backed, flew between the palm trees which lined the road closest to the beach area.
In the evening, Liz and I tried a short period of night birding on RECOPE Road only finding a Pauraque and the familiar sight of a Possum.

Afternoon near Manzanillo.

Feb. 26
For the first time, there was no rain overnight. Liz and I were off early again this morning to revisit the very convenient and birdable RECOPE Road. We added little new to our previous bird list but enjoyed the serenading Howler Monkeys as we absorbed the sensory overload that is the sights and sounds of the tropics. Flowers, butterflies, lizards, even people and general scenery filled any time we had when not finding birds. At the end of the road, we struck out on a trail that began as a large mud turn vehicle around but became a pleasant walk, leading deeper into Gandoca forest. We found a number of Dusky-faced Tanagers and Stripe-breasted Wrens in a heleconia patch, allowing only brief but close looks in the manner of the Tawny-crested Tanagers.
At our casa, the improvised fruit feeder was becoming more active by the day. The Passerini’s Tanagers found it first, then Kiskadees and Blue-gray Tanagers. I think Gary or Danny, who stayed a full month, would have a more complete list. A cryptic Leafwing butterfly also fed on the bananas.
Close at hand, Gray-headed Flycatchers, House Wrens and the Oropendulas were active all day. A pair of Cinnamon Becards battled a Social Flycatcher for nesting rights in an easily viewed tree. Our comfortably large, shady porch faced these areas and became the greatest asset of our rental cabin.
For those considering a similar visit, one aspect of our situation worth mentioning was the safety of the drinking water. We purchased bottled water in large containers, none of us wanting to be test subjects for the dubious tap water about which we had warnings. The four of us were going through about $5 of water a day, still affordable with the low rates of our rental unit and readily available at the adjacent pulperia. At one time, I daringly ate salad and raw fruit in a Manzanillo restaurant without, shall we say “negative feedback”.
Hot water in our casa was only available in the shower, which worked very well while Liz and I were there. Water for washing dishes had to be warmed on the gas stove but that proved to be not as difficult as it sounds.
We were pleasantly surprised to find that night time temperatures proved to be much more comfortable for sleeping than expected for the southern Caribbean coast.
Danny and I spent some time in the forest near the house listening for night birds that evening. We heard the trill of the Vermiculated Screech Owl and the growl of the Great Potoo again, also the dependable Pauraque.
Later, under a clear, night sky, just about every night noise we’d heard so far gathered in unison to howl at the nearly full moon. A concert of Howler Monkeys, dogs, our beloved rooster (soon for the stew pot we hoped), a dawn Tinamou and the grand finale - someone in the cabin began snoring. As I hid under the sheet from the mosquitos that invaded through the loose screening, potentially carrying malaria and dengue fever, trying to ignore the barrage of sounds and find my way to dreamland, I reminded myself how much I loved visiting the tropics.

A few photos more from the yard.

Great account of the trip Steve! Good memories from those days and that place, I'm already thinking about when I can get back down there for fall migration.