Elephants
I wasn't really expecting to see too many elephants on this trip. It's not something the Mara is famous for, and there are other parks in Kenya which are rather better known for their herds of pachyderms.
It was therefore with some surprise when we encountered our first elephants on my very first game drive. We saw them at a distance, and indeed, how would a small group of large mammals hide themselves in what is largely open savanna? My driver asked whether I'd like to go closer, and of course I said yes.
The sun was high in the sky, and the light wasn't very conducive to photography. It was a small family group, including one calf, although already of a fair size. They were moving across the plains at a deceptive pace, moving consistently while feeding.
Instead of heading for the group as we saw some other vehicles doing, my driver drove around them and placed the vehicle in the animal's path while they were still 100 yards or so off. We were right in the open, so if the animals decided they didn't want to go anywhere near our car they could just have diverted slightly from their route.
On they came, and given that they were constantly feeding I was quite surprised with their rate of progress I was focussing on the calf, and having a chuckle as it decided it, too, wanted to feed, but its trunk coordination wasn't sufficient to actually pull grass out of the ground (or maybe it had picked a particularly well-rooted bunch). It ended up kneeling on its forelegs so that it might try to bite off the grass close to the ground itself.
That slowed mother and youngster down a bit, and I looked around to see what had happened to the rest of the small herd. At this moment I realized that one of the adult animals was on course to pass extremely close to our jeep - it felt as if I could reach out to touch it, or it could reach out with its trunk to pick something up while passing. I held my breath - watching these powerful, yet gentle, animals at such close quarters is quite a breath-taking experience. But the elephant completely ignored us, kept setting one foot in front of the other, ripping out bundles of grass, chewing on them rhythmically, and being completely unconcerned with anything in the vicinity.
When this one had passed I let out my breath, and my driver seemed to be chuckling to himself. In Southern Africa where I've been before everybody keeps their distance, giving elephants plenty of room, but in a completely open environment it's apparently quite different.
We had three further encounters with elephants. Another small herd one morning just as the sun was getting up, and again the animals kept moving almost relentlessly. There were two youngsters with this herd, and the older one did turn to look at us, but as the herd was moving forward he or she soon followed suit.
Five days later we were slowly driving along a winding track through some woodland, looking for birds, when suddenly we came across just one cow with a calf. This felt a bit dodgier - we were in much more confined quarters, and the calf was still quite young, but fortunately the animals met us at right angles, and so we stopped and waited for them, and after second they were gone into the bushes and had become completely invisible.
We met elephants one more time towards the end of my stay, and all the photos attached to this post are from that encounter. The light was better, and we had some time, first allowing the animals to pass us at a bit of a distance, and then repeating the same trick of driving well out in front of them and letting them come to us. This time we didn't have quite such a close encounter, but we were the only car in that position and got to enjoy the animals on their own term, hearing just their chewing, and the grass move as the elephants stepped through it.
Drivers seemed to be really well-behaved around elephants, presumably because they're somewhat intimidating. But by behaving in a way that gives the animals a choice regarding how close they want to come it's possible to have close encounters with these small groups.
We didn't go looking for elephants and I would assume that if somebody specifically wanted to see them then more encounters would be a possibility. But the groups are on the small side, maybe ten to fifteen animals to a group, some of them smaller, and we never saw them at rest. They were always on the move, eating as they went.
Once we were visited by elephants in camp during the night, and I woke up to hear one of the animals pull branches from the tree under which my tent was located. It's quite something to only have a bit of canvas between oneself and an elephant, or hippos (they liked grazing around the site as well), or to hear a lion roar, or a hyena call. You know you're in the bush then.
Andrea
1. On the move
2. Eye-to-eye
3. Mother and child
4. Mum is always close by