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Five days in Costa Rica - April (1 Viewer)

Hamhed

Well-known member
Designed in mind to to take family members on a tropical trip, my wife, Liz and I took my 88 yeard old mother, my 85 year old Aunt and my brother, Pete, on a very short trip on the 11th of April. To cushion the tedious nature of the traveling, my mom and Aunt flew first class and we chose a direct (and costly) flight from Charlotte, North carolina. Arriving in early afternoon, we met our rental car company, Wild Rider, (http://www.wild-rider.com/) at the airport and drove off to the Carribean lowlands. My first time driving in Costa Rica, we decided to avoid San Jose and take the route through Posito and Vara Blanca. We did not have a GPS in the vehicle but relied on printed maps. As it happened, we had no confusion, wrong turns or other problems in navigation. This also afforded a stop at the Cinchona Cafe for a leg stretch, some food and a few minutes with scenic views and hummingbirds. We arrived at our destination, Heleconia Island Lodge, (http://www.heliconiaisland.com/) just after dark.
This particular lodge was chosen partially for the flat terrain, a necessity for the elderly couple but also for the beauty of the gardens, the bird life and the Dutch couple, Henk and Carolien, whom Liz and I remembered fondly from previous visits.
We spent three full days and four nights there, eating most of our meals at the lodge and birding when it wasn't raining, which was often. The feeders, one almost within reach on the dining area, had near constant activity. A group of Howler monkees were seen daily and White-faced Capuchins twice. The capuchins were not welcome as they rob the feeders of all the fruit as well as eating frogs, bird eggs and nestlings as they pass through. Both Two and Three-Toed Sloths were seen though no other mammals made an appearance. We went out after nightfall to find frogs and were not disappointed thanks to Carolien, who is very much in tune with the wildlife on her property. She knows the frogs as well as the birds and plants, where they can be found and much of their natural history.
I posted this list of 88 species to eBird for our first full day there:
http://ebird.org/ebird/view/checklist?subID=S22938689
 

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We made three short side trips during our stay at Heleconia Island. Pete, Liz and I spent a somewhat damp morning exploring Selva Verde (http://www.selvaverde.com/lang/en/). We accepted a generous offer to bird their grounds and have lunch for $17 per person. We found out after getting our wristbands this did not include access to the mature forest across the river, a major disappointment since the goal was to get into the old growth found only in limited amounts at Heleconia Island. Still, we easily spent the morning wandering the trails, birding when it was not raining; frogging when it was. Our bird list was not impressive though Pete spotted a Snowy Cotinga and a Slaty-tailed Trogon showed near the feeder area.
That same evening, our entire group went to Horquetas where Jose Solis operates Frogs Heaven (https://es-es.facebook.com/frogsheaven). The tour was first a slow walk through his food garden and ended as night fell, spotting a variety of frogs. Our special treat, as guests of Heleconia Island, with whom Jose was good friends, was to have a traditional Costa Rican meal in a Costa Rican house with a Tico family.
On the final day, we five spent a very pleasant 90 minutes at the Nature Pavilion, in the company of Dave Ramirez. The site is built and maintained for bird viewing and photography. The Youtube videos I have seen do not do it justice. Dave is obviously committed to a plan of constant improvement towards a goal of property protection through birder visitation. There are some riverside trails, of which we explored only a brief portion. My mom and Aunt enjoyed the constant activity and proximity of a good variety of species, some of which were seen at Heleconia Island but with more feeders and enough added diversity to be a worthwhile visit. We finished our mid-morning diversion by stopping on the way back through Sarapiqui for a round of mora (blackberry) batidas (fruit shakes).
 

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More photos from Heleconia Island. Rain and overcast conditions limited me to about 1200 pictures and videos in the five days.
 

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On the fourth day, we left Heleconia Island and drove back across the mountains, stopping for a long lunch at the Cinchona Cafe. I guess the cafe to be at about 4300' (1300m) so of course, some different birds were enjoyed. Liz and I were not expecting this to be a trip that would generate many new birds for us but we did pick up flyover Great Green Macaws and a Sunbittern at Heleconia Island. Here at the cafe, we were fortunate to see a White-bellied Mountain-gem, one of the few Costa Rican hummingbirds we had not previously seen. It was chased and bullied by the numerous Violet Sabrewings so I was unable to get a picture of any quality. The cafe was a refreshing stop also as an end to the hot and humid conditions of the Sarapiqui lowlands.
We drove straight to our final night's destination, Tacacori Ecolodge, (http://www.tacacori.com/), arriving in the hills above Alajuela by mid-afternoon.
 

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Our stay at Tacacori was our choice to be within near proximity to the airport rather than a birding destination. The owners, Patrick and Nadine, make no claims as such. However, we did find enough birdlife to keep us interested and occupied during our short stay. I reported 26 species to eBird:
http://ebird.org/ebird/view/checklist?subID=S22939189
As mentioned, the cool temperatures and lowered humidity were a welcome change. We had a restful night, an excellent breakfast and plenty of space and time to prepare for our flight in late morning. Our fuel stop just north of Alajuela was pleasantly surprising. The four cylinder Hyundai dragged going up the mountains with five people and luggage and did require high test gas but we were satisfied with the $60 fuel bill for the trip.
We allowed plenty of time to reach the airport, allowing for heavy traffic and wrong turns. I took full advantage of that extra time by going right when I should have gone left and then later trying the opposite, with the same unwanted result. Still, we arrived 15 minutes early, time enough to disembark and settle up with Jose from Wild Rider, who was both punctual and efficient. For that and their excellent communications in planning our trip, I give the company my highest recommendations.

Steve
 

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Steve: It's good to know that a good friend had no problem finding MY nemesis (Sunbittern)!

No hint of same at Selva Verde?

Gary H

No Sunbittern at Selva Verde. We saw a Green and Amazon Kingfishers, Spotted Sandpiper, Rough-winged Swallows and Black Phoebe at the river. There is a place I wished for a scope. There were a number of birds in the forest across the river. Toucans and Oropendulas for sure but others were out of reach of my 8X bins.
Overall, the birding at Selva Verde was ony fair, though that Snowy Cotinga did make up for the short list. As I mentioned, my point was to get Pete into old growth tropical forest, partially in hopes of seeing some snakes as we had at Tirimbina, and we were not allowed to do so. In retrospect, I'm wondering if being a guest at the lodge there also does not qualify for entry into the primary forest. The gate at the end of the bridge was locked. Were we too early? It was before 9 though I can't say exactly when. What was your experience with that area?

Steve
 
Definitely sounds like a worth-while little trip, and a shame it wasn't longer.

Niels

We considered staying on and sending the balance of the group home but didn't want to saddle my brother with the responsibility of the older ladies. There was also that 2.5 hour drive home at the end of the trip which would have meant driving separate vehicles. All in all, it was a bit of a sacrifice but what can you do when your Mom needs help to have one last adventure?

Steve
 
In retrospect, I'm wondering if being a guest at the lodge there also does not qualify for entry into the primary forest. The gate at the end of the bridge was locked. Were we too early? It was before 9 though I can't say exactly when. What was your experience with that area?

Steve: I've never stayed there but did take a tour like yours one time that was limited to non-primary forest. I think I recall being told when reserving the tour that overnight guests are permitted into the primary forest reserve.

Gary H
 
No Sunbittern at Selva Verde. We saw a Green and Amazon Kingfishers, Spotted Sandpiper, Rough-winged Swallows and Black Phoebe at the river. There is a place I wished for a scope. There were a number of birds in the forest across the river. Toucans and Oropendulas for sure but others were out of reach of my 8X bins.
Overall, the birding at Selva Verde was ony fair, though that Snowy Cotinga did make up for the short list. As I mentioned, my point was to get Pete into old growth tropical forest, partially in hopes of seeing some snakes as we had at Tirimbina, and we were not allowed to do so. In retrospect, I'm wondering if being a guest at the lodge there also does not qualify for entry into the primary forest. The gate at the end of the bridge was locked. Were we too early? It was before 9 though I can't say exactly when. What was your experience with that area?

Steve

Thanks for posting the report, I was wondering how the trip went. Way to get that Sunbittern and macaw, nice cotinga shot too! I don't know what the current situation is at Selva Verde but I was under the impression that the primary forest is even off limits to overnight guests unless they pay to go in with a Selva Verde guide.
 
I don't know what the current situation is at Selva Verde but I was under the impression that the primary forest is even off limits to overnight guests unless they pay to go in with a Selva Verde guide.

That's actually a better characterization of what I was told a few years ago when reserving a tour. If I recall correctly, only overnight guests could reserve a guide for primary forest access.

Gary H
 
Thanks for posting the report, I was wondering how the trip went. Way to get that Sunbittern and macaw, nice cotinga shot too! I don't know what the current situation is at Selva Verde but I was under the impression that the primary forest is even off limits to overnight guests unless they pay to go in with a Selva Verde guide.

Patrick-
If you remember we discussed the road that goes behind Selva Verde. We had a fair amount of rain and your warning about the condition of those back roads when wet was taken to heart. Though it was tempting to see if we could access that primary forest in that way, we passed up the opportunity.
That access restriction makes a stay at Tirimbina look more attractive.

Do you have experience with the primary forests in both places? Any notable differences?

Steve
 
Patrick-
If you remember we discussed the road that goes behind Selva Verde. We had a fair amount of rain and your warning about the condition of those back roads when wet was taken to heart. Though it was tempting to see if we could access that primary forest in that way, we passed up the opportunity.
That access restriction makes a stay at Tirimbina look more attractive.

Do you have experience with the primary forests in both places? Any notable differences?

Steve

A shame that it ws too wet to go back there but no, never worth it! There are several roads that access interesting habitat near the western edge of Braulio but it would be easy to get stuck during rainy weather. I haven't been inside the forest at Selva Verde for many years since I don't stay there. Nevertheless, I think that the forest at Tirimbina is a bit more hilly. Not sure how different they are but I do know that Tirimbina still has nunbirds, antbirds, and other deep forest species. Checking eBird might be the easiest way to get an idea of the differences. Another promising site is the Bijagaul reserve. Haven't been but really want to hceck it out.
 
Yes, the Bijagual reserve seems to be in a great location. Poco Azul is located nearby, correct? I considered staying at Poco Azul on our last trip because I thought the habitat might be top notch but your warning about the roads gave me concerns about the access. I'm beginning to see that the only way to bird Costa Rica properly is to live there and be financially independent!

Steve
 
I'm beginning to see that the only way to bird Costa Rica properly is to live there and be financially independent!

the same could be said for almost anyplace in the tropics, but extended stays (a week or more) in one place at least enhance your potential for a longer list of species and often more satisfying encounters. Am thinking seriously about an early 2016 trip that would incorporate a couple of days at La Boruca (for a better trip into the "hidden" side of Braulio Carrillo), maybe four or five nights in Manzanillo and perhaps three more at Tirimbina. I could just as easily make an argument for returning to the Golfo Dulce region again, though!

Gary H
 
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