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Kazakhstan, Wanders in Central Asia (1 Viewer)

Jos Stratford

Eastern Exile
Staff member
United Kingdom
Explorations into Central Asia, this trip to southern Kazakhstan is my first to the region (following an aborted attempt about four years ago, when my flight was cancelled midway!) and will focus on the high Tian Shan mountains and the vast expanses of semi-desert that stretch to the north. With potential species including Pallas's Sandgrouse, Ibisbill, Saxual Sparrow and Altai Accentor, not to forget a faint glimmer of a hope of Pander's Ground Jay (virtually impossible in Kazakhstan I fear), this should be a truly memorable trip.

Traveling from the 4th to 20th July, I don't expect much in the way of internet access, so updates probably only on return.




4 July. Kiev, Ukraine.

Stop-over on route to Kazakhstan, only had a couple of hours free, so I nipped out from the airport, incurred the wrath of a couple of local police by wandering around scrubland adjacent to the airport fences, but in the process notched up a few nice morsels to get the trip underway - I was primarily seeking out butterflies, but the typical east European mix of birds also included several Red-backed Shrikes, a Wryneck, one Marsh Harrier quartering adjacent to the runways, plus plentiful Whinchats, a couple of Northern Wheatears and a Black Redstart. Almost back in the airport terminal, a small patch of woodland produced one Syrian Woodpecker, one Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and several Spotted Flycatchers.

Then had some work to do, but already finished this, so may just take a wander back to the scubby area ...flight to Almaty in three hours.
 
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Good luck - I don't think Zarudny's (Desert) Sparrow gets into Kazakhstan but another one to keep your eyes out for in the south - you never know. That bird doesn't seem to get seen by anyone even WITHIN its known range...

cheers, alan
 
Will be interested in this Jos, as I did an organised trip to SE Kazakhstan in May......Pallas s-grouse were around in good numbers, crap weather kyboshed Altai accentor and we had some entertainment from small officious men in big caps with a megphone when trying to get to the well known Ibisbill site - we got in and the bird eventually.

I expect you'll get up to some jolly japes as usual.

cheers, Andrew
 
Over 10 years since I dipped a toe in Kazakhstan, courtesy of Naturetrek's wonderful 990 range. Great birds, amazing place. I imagine Jos' wanderings will be considerably more adventurous than mine were! Really hope you do well; looking forward to reading all about it.

Best of luck.

James
 
I did a tour a few years back. We had the ground-jay in Uzbekistan, but not Kazakhstan.

The ibisbill site was a bit of a challenge since "security" tried to keep us out the first time we tried. We went the next day as early as possible in the morning. i.e. before the guards showed up (they told us what time they came on duty!). We got in, saw the bird, and got out before they were on duty.
 
Ibisbill

The ibisbill site was a bit of a challenge since "security" tried to keep us out the first time we tried. We went the next day as early as possible in the morning. i.e. before the guards showed up (they told us what time they came on duty!). We got in, saw the bird, and got out before they were on duty.
Ibisbill was easy at Big Almaty Lake (Bolshoe Almatinskoe ozero) in May 2010. Didn't encounter any security personnel during three days birding in the area.
 
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The ground jay was seen by Belgians (I believe) some ten years ago. It really is way out in the sticks, still a long way from where most people visit the turanga forest. Would have loved to go for it, but you'd better not be in an organised tour for that one! So Jos is likely to get it, haha.
 
Pander's Ground Jay

The ground jay was seen by Belgians (I believe) some ten years ago. It really is way out in the sticks, still a long way from where most people visit the turanga forest. Would have loved to go for it, but you'd better not be in an organised tour for that one! So Jos is likely to get it, haha.
Ashby & Annenkova 2004 (Birding Kazakhstan)...
Taukum Desert
... Northeast from the somewhat dilapidated town of Quaroy [sic], ...and deep in the barkhans along tracks barely passable even by four-wheel drive, an endemic race of Pander's Ground Jay, iliensis [sic], still clings to existence. Seeing it requires a special 3-4-day expedition but, in view of the isolation of the population and its markedly different appearance to the panderi race, it is definitely worth it.
Arend Wassink notes that ilensis is actually the only bird taxon endemic to Kazakhstan.

But, Madge 2009 (HBW 14)...
Birds from Transcaspia described as race transcaspius and those from E Kazakhstan (L Balkhash) as ilensis, but effects of bleaching and plumage wear render such forms of questionable validity. Treated as monotypic.
 
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I can see the report now:

Having breakfasted as usual on yak's milk, I set out on my ten day walk to the ground jay site. Fortunately a passing caravan of spice trading camel-herders offered me a lift and insisted I share their lunch of what looked suspiciously like broiled sandgrouse, cutting the trip to a mere two days and foiling the two Wolves that had been dogging my footsteps for several hours......

Go Jos!

John
 
Karaoy (Qaraoy) is 300 km from Kanshengel (Qanshenggel) and the sand dunes start right outside the town.
...and only 175 km by road from Zheltorangghy (which Jos will probably visit for the Turanga grove specialities).

PS. A series of seven photos by Fedorenko Vassiliy – east of Qaraoy, 28 Apr 2014: birds.kz.
 
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I can see the report now:

Having breakfasted as usual on yak's milk,

We were offered camel's milk to go with out tea at one location in Kazakhstan. I opted to drink it black on that occasion, but curiosity got the better of me and I did try some of the milk on its own. I can report that it was remarkably sweet, smelt of camel, and had bits in it.

Go, as you say, Jos.

James
 
Ibisbill was easy at Big Almaty Lake (Bolshoe Almatinskoe ozero) in May 2010. Didn't encounter any security personnel during three days birding in the area.

I was there in May 2011.

The guards were perched on the dam at Big Almaty Lake. Our leaders, both foreign and domestic, were surprised by the security presence. Supposedly it had something to do with "terrorism."

Mind you, they let locals picnic on the dam breast while they refused to let us in.
 
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Picked up a hiking book from Amazon the other year on the Spice Roads (probably won't ever get to use it myself) ... sounds like an awesome location with certainly some mouth watering wildlife ...
 
I was there in May 2011.

The guards were perched on the dam at Big Almaty Lake. Our leaders, both foreign and domestic, were surprised by the security presence.

I can absolutely confirm the military presence is VERY heavy at the site now - the lake and the track that goes to the other end are totally out of bounds (numerous signs, a big new one dated 2014 with pictures of soldiers and dogs hiding in the trees!). Today a military jeep parked on the track, soldiers doing frog march down the main road past the dam and a guy with a whistle sitting on the dam itself.

Worse still, the military have a camp at the observatory and access to the this area is also blocked, i.e. where all the birds are! The gate is manned by a soldier and he made it very clear I could not go there. Argued with him for twenty minutes (which is very easy when he speaks no English, I no Russian), he radioed someone higher up and still the answer was no. Same for the higher altitude cosmodrome. If I understood correctly, a permit is maybe available somewhere, but no idea where.

With nothing better to do, an attempted bribe also having failed to shift the guy, I was sat at the barrier pondering my next move when, rather unexpectedly, he relented (and this was a direct violation of what the soldier's higher rank had said) and said I could, gesturing by hand signals, go directly to the cosmodrome, then come back ...and go no where near the observatory area.

So, up I went, and didn't come back till evening ...spent half the day watching some very fine birds and half the day getting out of sight of the military - even had to hide behind a boulder when a helicopter came low over the hill!

Tomorrow I attempt the observatory by the back door and the far end of the lake (got whistled at this evening for trying).

Gee, this country still feels like the Soviet Union in some respects!
 
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