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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Digital Camera for use at Moth Trap (1 Viewer)

WHIMBREL

WHIMBREL

A lifelong Naturalist...
Fellow Moth-ers,

I'm looking for information on what digital camera (non DSLR) moth-ers find are the best for taking identification record photographs of moths that come to the light trap but fail to enter the trap and need to be photographed where they land.

I currently use a Sony S85 (5 years old) but it's not the greatest for night shots mainly using close up/macro, which I admit is a big ask.

Anyone recommend or suggest a suitable digicam for mercury vapour moth trap use photography at night. I've posted this here rather than the camera forums because all the 'real' moth-ers are here, and I know will probably give me sound advice.

My thanks in anticipation,

Bill
 
Hi Bill,

I rarely take photos around the trap whilst it's on as the results are uniformly horrible. Best to pot the moth up overnight and take photos in natural light the following day.

I use a Nikon 995 with a SL-1 Coolight when light is poor - might be worth your while looking at this option.

David
 
davidg said:
Hi Bill,

I rarely take photos around the trap whilst it's on as the results are uniformly horrible. Best to pot the moth up overnight and take photos in natural light the following day.

I use a Nikon 995 with a SL-1 Coolight when light is poor - might be worth your while looking at this option.

David
Click to expand...

David,

Thank you for the prompt reply. I use a Nikon DSLR and 50mm Macro lens for photographing moths that are retained in the trap until next morning.

I need a new digicam to photograph those moths that refuse to enter the trap, yet land in the vicinity of the trap. Some of these moths are too interesting not to get a record image for identification purposes.

Nightlight and macro make the job pretty tough - but there may be a digicam worth recommending that moth-ers out there use.

Bill
 
I have always thought that the best camera for moth pictures is the Nikon CP4500. It is capable of focusing down to 1cm which makes it perfect for insects. Nikon have also produced the SL-1 which is a ring of white LEDs which can be screwed to the lense so you can light the subject. Unfortunately both have been discontinued but it is still possible to get hold of them.

As with any macro, close up pictures the slightest movement can cause the subject to be blurred so you get better results if you pot the moth first and take it somewhere else.
 
I have managed to take night shots with a torch and a fujifinepix 2400 - but frankly I don't see the point.
Ken
 

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Surreybirder said:
I have managed to take night shots with a torch and a fujifinepix 2400 - but frankly I don't see the point.
Ken
Click to expand...

Ken,

I only take 'record shots' of any moths that may escape identification by failing to go into the MV light trap. It's better to have almost any ID help than none at all, and your attached photograph shows that an acceptable image for ID purposes is often possible, I'm simply looking for the best digicam available to do this.

Has anyone used the Canon Powershot A640 for night shots?

Thanks to PaulK and Chris also for their most welcome input to my query.

Bill
 
PaulK said:
I have always thought that the best camera for moth pictures is the Nikon CP4500. It is capable of focusing down to 1cm which makes it perfect for insects. Nikon have also produced the SL-1 which is a ring of white LEDs which can be screwed to the lense so you can light the subject. Unfortunately both have been discontinued but it is still possible to get hold of them.

As with any macro, close up pictures the slightest movement can cause the subject to be blurred so you get better results if you pot the moth first and take it somewhere else.
Click to expand...

I use the 4500 also. I pot them, pop the in the fridge and usually I manage to photograph them in the kitchen before I go to bed.

I use the flash and half cover the camera's flash so that not such a fierce light is flashed onto the moth (doesn't bleach then colours that way). Virtually all my Moth images on my web site are taken that way.

John
 
Reader said:
I use the 4500 also. I pot them, pop the in the fridge and usually I manage to photograph them in the kitchen before I go to bed.

I use the flash and half cover the camera's flash so that not such a fierce light is flashed onto the moth (doesn't bleach then colours that way). Virtually all my Moth images on my web site are taken that way.

John
Click to expand...

Thanks John,

Food for thought regarding potting them up - I'm not too sure on the fridge bit though, my missus may not exactly approve!!! - without cooling them down how managable are they in the pot?

Bill

PS. Nice website.
 
The cooling down bit is fairly essential, I'm afraid, as it quietens the moths down. Left for any length of time in a pot and they will start to flap about - you'll end up taking photos of a moth with no scales. I use one of the enclosed fridge door shelves for keeping moths overnight - and apart from the occasional grumble when I'm having a particularly busy night the wife and kids work around it.

David
 
If you only want record shots, I think that John's advice is good. Pot them up and then photo them at your leisure. I usually wait till daylight and I don't use the fridge. It means I don't need to use flash, which in my experience is never totally satisfactory. It all depends what you are trying to achieve. If you just want a record shot, the torch method is not that bad - another couple of examples attached - large yellow underwing nectaring on buddleia and satellite at sugar.
Ken
PS I understand that moths will not try to fly in total darkness. So if you can work out some way of keeping them completely dark, there's no need to fridge them. Don't freeze them by the way, at the risk of stating the obvious!
 

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Surreybirder said:
If you only want record shots, I think that John's advice is good. Pot them up and then photo them at your leisure. I usually wait till daylight and I don't use the fridge. It means I don't need to use flash, which in my experience is never totally satisfactory. It all depends what you are trying to achieve. If you just want a record shot, the torch method is not that bad - another couple of examples attached - large yellow underwing nectaring on buddleia and satellite at sugar.
Ken
PS I understand that moths will not try to fly in total darkness. So if you can work out some way of keeping them completely dark, there's no need to fridge them. Don't freeze them by the way, at the risk of stating the obvious!
Click to expand...

Ken,

All moths that are trapped are photographed early next morning - I try to get the best possible shot both for identification purposes if needed and for a permanent photograph for each new species for my records - some species are simply not accommodating when the trap is opened and quickly scarper!!

Will the potted moths become agitated without 'cooling down' in the fridge as both John and David suggest?

I'm no fan of flash either Ken, you cannot beat natural light. My original thread query applied only to the best digicam available for 'night shots', but the potting suggestion has given me food for thought.


All your advice is thankfully received, and I may well try your torch method, your attached photo's are quite acceptable for any 'night shot' records.

Bill
 
davidg said:
The cooling down bit is fairly essential, I'm afraid, as it quietens the moths down. Left for any length of time in a pot and they will start to flap about - you'll end up taking photos of a moth with no scales. I use one of the enclosed fridge door shelves for keeping moths overnight - and apart from the occasional grumble when I'm having a particularly busy night the wife and kids work around it.

David
Click to expand...

David,

Thanks for your advice, once taken from the fridge how long does one have to get a photograph (in natural daylight) before the more lively species become active and prove almost impossible to photograph ie. wings vibrating prior to take off?

The welfare of the moths is of paramount importance, I try to create as little stress as possible before safe release in a bird free zone, so does the fridge experience cause them any undue stress do you think?

My Appreciation,

Bill
 
One of the best cameras I have come across for low light conditions is the little Fuji F10.
Remarkably little noise even at ISO 1600. A tripod or other support is essential for any low light photography.

To quote someone else .... "Available light is any damn light that's available".
The torch option seems reasonable.
 
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