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Florida, Winter 2013-14 (1 Viewer)

Jos Stratford

Eastern Exile
Staff member
United Kingdom
Coming hot on the heels of my late-summer overland journey from southern California to the Arctic coast of northern Alaska, this rather more sedate return to the USA saw me travelling to the far south-east of North America, enjoying a two-week winter break in sunny Florida.

With concentrations of waterbirds, both resident and wintering, Florida is a treat in winter, sites such as the Everglades and Merritt Island a feast for the eyes with incredible numbers of herons, cormorants, pelicans and ducks packing in. Add on top, a whole range of additional species such as Mangrove Cuckoo, the endemic Florida Scrub Jay, Red-cockaded Woodpecker, Crested Caracara and the reintroduced Whooping Cranes and you'll soon appreciate that Florida certainly does have attractions beyond its better-known beaches, theme parks and Miami skyline.

With targets including Florida Scrub Jay, Whooping Crane, Crested Caracara, Red-cockaded Woodpecker and Brown-headed Nuthatch, my itinerary took me on an anti-clockwise loop starting and finishing in Miami. After spending a few days in the Everglades National Park, I then headed north to the excellent Lake Kissimmee area and thereafter to Merritt Island, an incredible locality indeed. From there, after a short detour to Blue Springs to view the Manatee populations, I crossed to the Gulf of Mexico to sample the offerings on Sambel Island and Corkscrew Swamp. Finally, with a few days to spare, I returned to the south-east, finishing the trip with visits to the Wakodahatchee Wetlands, Florida Keys and a last spin in the Everglades.
 
18 December. Trans-Atlantic.

A long day indeed, the only highlights being a blazing row with incompetent security officials at Warsaw Airport who tried to confiscate my (empty) camping stove. In defence for the intended confiscation, they offered the explanation that Britain was not in the European Union and so 'different rules' applied and they could take the item. When pointed out that half a million Poles have taken advantage of Britain's position in the E.U. tot ravel for work, the officer who had decreed such remained adamant - 'No, you are wrong, Britain is in Europe, but not the European Union'. What an idiot! Anyhow, given that my stove has also been inspected by security on multiple occasions in Finland, Germany, the US and elsewhere, I refused to hand over the item. Half an hour later, with several ranks of security bosses also now gathered, I said I wanted to make an official complaint. Miraculously, my stove was then put through the scanner again and it was now deemed okay.

Other than this minor distraction, all was hunky-dory. I had driven down overnight from Lithuania, I departed Warsaw at 8.00 a.m. local time, arrived in Milan two hours later and then immediately boarded an eleven-hour flight direct to Miami. At least all would have been hunky-dory if the plane had not developed a terminal technical failure as we flew over the frozen wastes of Nova Scotia. Cue, one unscheduled stop in Boston! Two hours on the ground turned into four, then crept to six. Eventually another plane was found and into the air we went again, finally touching down in the delicious warmth of Miami close to 1 a.m. local time. After picking up a rental car, I slithered out of the airport and motored down to Florida City, home for the night a rather nice motel. No birds seen during the day!
 
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19 December. The Everglades


Having barely been in bed for four hours, and slightly warped by the time difference, we were up at the crack of dawn to begin the birding adventures. Staggered out into the parking lot, palm trees plentiful, a warm sun just rising. European Starlings, two Common Mynas, a little flock of Monk Parakeets and a couple of House Sparrows ...hardly classic American birding to kick things off!

Just twenty minutes to the west of Florida City however lay the entrance to the legendary Everglades, a vast wetland of saw grass and prairie, 20,000 square kilometres of pristine habitat full of birds, alligators and others critters to delight. So scoffing down breakfast and chucking coffee into a thermos, off we went. A short drive through agricultural areas, Northern Mockingbirds, American Kestrels and umpteen Boat-tailed Grackles on roadside wires, waves of White Ibis and Cattle Egrets winging over, and then we were there. Tricoloured Herons and Great Egrets in the first marshes, a wave of Yellow-rumped Warblers in trees adjacent to the visitor centre. Having paid to enter, our first port of call was the Anhinga Trail, a short trail that led along an embankment, then circled on a boardwalk through the wetlands. A bunch of Red-shouldered Hawks on bushes just before we arrived, then an enormous flock of Black Vultures waiting to ambush us as we entered the parking lot! Dozens of them, and ambush is the right word, as I exited the car, hordes of them lolloped over, immediately forming a circle penning us in, with others plonking down on the car roof! I am far too skinny to be viewed as potential dinner, na these vultures had the actual car in their sights! Signposts warned of the danger - these vultures were the hoodlums of the 'hood', wanton damage their thing. Apparently they have taken a like to windscreen wipers and rubber window trims! Thoughtfully the national park authorities leave a big box of tarps for visitors to cover their cars, so ten minutes later, car now wrapped up like an early Christmas present, we were ready to begin exploration.

And fantastic it was. Almost needing a nudge to get them out of the way, Anhingas, Great Blue Herons and Black Vultures littered the path, diminutive Green Herons hunted from lily pads and Pied-billed Grebes bobbed on open patches. Overhead, a Short-tailed Hawk rose on the developing thermals, trillions of Black and Turkey Vultures now also circling. One Common Yellowthroat popped out, so too a little flock of Blue-grey Gnatcatchers. Double-crested Cormorants, White Ibis, Common Gallinules and Belted Kingfisher also present.

An hour or so later, many photographs already taken, it was time to continue, our ultimate destination the Flamingo campsite on Florida Bay. Many stops on route - Alligators lazing on the grassy sidewalks, Ospreys fairly common, numerous herons and egrets of assorted types, but the best stop was at Mahogany Hammock. The hammocks in the Everglades are small islands of tropical forest within the sea of grasses, typically either dominated by palms or hardwoods. Mahogany Hammock contains the largest mahogany tree in the United States and the trail that meanders around the hammock is a delight, the dense vegetation and drift of butterflies suggestive of a wild jungle rather than isolated patch. In winter many of these hammocks harbour flocks of warblers and it was these that I hoped to find. Twenty minutes of slowly working the habitat, then bingo! On branches dripping with epiphytes, a rapidly moving mixed flock ...Blue-grey Gnatcatchers leading the way, a dozen or Yellow-rumped Warblers, then a flash of colour as a dazzling Prairie Warbler hopped into view, then a cracking Northern Parula (my first since one on the Isles of Scilly in 1985!). Birds flitting each and every way, then a real jewel appeared from nowhere, one splendid Black-throated Green Warbler. Two Blue-headed Vireos next, then creeping up the branches like humbugs on legs, a superb Black-and-White Warbler, another following shortly after. Phew, that was a moment of excitement, and then the branches began to fall silent, the flock moving off into the depths of the hammock.

By now early afternoon and a splendid 29 C, it was time to get down to Flamingo to erect the tents. A few stops on route added an enormous flock of about 600 Tree Swallows, as well as assorted ducks such as Blue-winged Teal and Ruddy Duck and, as we pulled into the campsite, an American Kestrel adorned a dead tree, a Red-shouldered Hawk perched on the next along. Up went the tents, past stalked an immature Yellow-crowned Night Heron, clearly not aware of its usual nocturnal status. A bit of lazing around, watching Willets and Marbled Godwits on the adjacent mudflats, then quickly popped over to the nearby marina. Sometimes a locality for West Indian Manatee, I was quietly happy that none were present on this day (hoping to save them for a very special locality later in the trip), but two American Crocodiles cruising the waterways just off the key were most welcome!

With the tide on the rise, it was then time to plonk myself on a conveniently placed bench overlooking Florida Bay. Amongst the hordes, hundreds of Willets and White Ibis, many dozens of Little Blue Herons, one Roseate Spoonbill and, a bird I had hoped to encounter, one Reddish Egret prancing around in the shallows. Far more impressive however was a sandbank just in front of me - as the tide pushed, so it filled up: flocks of Laughing Gulls at one end, a mass of American White Pelicans in the middle, a few Brown Pelicans in their midst, but choc'a'bloc up the other end, at least 400 Black Skimmers, very nice indeed. Even more so, when the tide periodically pushed them into the air, a mass swirl of black and white as they wheeled round to resettle.

Ever-present ospreys completed the picture and as sunset began to approach, I departed for a quick look for Lesser Nighthawks around Eco Pond. None seen, the best birds there being two American Avocets ...accompanied by rather many mosquitos.

And with that, end of day one, one quite contented observer clambered into his tent, next morning I had ideas to be up pre-dawn.
 
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20 December - Everglades.


Of all the specialities in Florida, Mangrove Cuckoo is probably the hardest. A rare inhabitant of dense mangrove swamps, the bird is all the harder in the winter months when the bird does not call and generally creeps about in the inaccessible interiors of the mangroves. Nevertheless, at least one attempt was in order, so with a little too much enthusiasm, an hour before dawn saw me sitting in the car at the beginning of the Snake Bight Trail, the dark hole of the trail vanishing off into the interior of the mangroves. With no hope of actually seeing any birds so early and a splendid collection of mosquitoes waiting for an early breakfast, I slurped down my coffee with relish and waited a while. Hints of dawn began to flood the sky, stirrings of life began in the mangrove, time to begin my walk.

In the mangrove interior, dark and dank, a warm musky feel to the air, a few bird calls emanating from the depths, barely a bird seen fro the first half hour or so. A couple of Green Herons peering into a trackside channel, a couple of Northern Cardinals adding a splash of colour. Quiet calls and a few moments of pishing led to the emergence of Northern Waterthrushes on the trail, first a pair, then another four as the morning progressed. Not a sniff of a Mangrove Cuckoo! Onward, delicate long-winged butterflies fluttered on the dabbled sunlight filtering through, a distinctive loud repetitive call led me to a Great Crested Flycatcher feeding in a broadleaf tree rising out from a drier patch within the mangroves, a mixed flock just beyond also producing a bunch of Yellow-rumped Warblers, along with a couple of White-eyed Vireos, one Prairie Warbler, two Northern Parulas and a Black-and-White Warbler, a nice little collection. And then, a pair of White-crowned Pigeons in the mangrove canopy, another of Florida's specialities.

A little further along, the mangrove opened out and Florida Bay appeared in front. Hopes of a nice vista were dashed by mangroves growing across the mudflats, but still a few Little Blue Herons could be seen, along with both Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs, a stack of Turkey Vultures and a Palm Warbler feeding on the mud next to the mangroves. The walk back to the car was rather more rapid, Northern Waterthrushes seen again, but predictably no Mangrove Cuckoos. Relly need to return in spring for this one!

Back at the campsite, Eastern Phoebes were new to the trip list, and over another coffee, a few other birds also seen - Northern Mockingbird, Fish Crow, Red-shouldered Hawk and oodles of vultures prancing about. Decided to shift the tent to another spot within the campsite, then headed off for a tour of a few of the pools within the southern sector of the Everglades National Park. Paurotis Pond, generally famous for its breeding concentrations of Wood Storks and other long-legged birds, was basically devoid of any birds (breeding had yet to begin), but Mrazak Pond and Nine-mile Pond were far better, not only sporting a few very large Alligators, but also decent concentrations of waterfowl, including at least 800 American Coots, about 150 Green-winged Teals, 60 Ring-necked Ducks, 25 Lesser Scaups and a couple of Redheads.

Ended the day off back at the Flamingo Marina - Ospreys atop nests, Black Skimmers again on the sandbanks, one Northern Harrier passing by. And, last bird of the day, viewed by torchlight, one Yellow-crowned Night Heron stalking the campsite.
 
Good report, Jos, looking forward to the next episode! Hope to go to Florida myself in May for a first visit.
Peter
 
I'm watching with interest too as I'll be going on a family holiday in April and have earmarked a few likely spots but would be good to add some more. Keep up the good work!
 
Sounds like the perfect antidote to a snowbound winter - those wood warbler flocks and the Turkey Vulture reception committee sound terrific. I wonder if the latter are related to Keas, which apparently have the same predilection for rubber car parts.

Cheers
Mike
 
21 December. Shark Valley.


Shark Valley, two hours north of Flamingo by road, the northernmost extreme of the Everglades National Park. Leaving at an unearthly hour, and picking a Short-eared Owl en route, I was at the entrance to Shark Valley just before the sun rose. Pity the gates were not going to open until 8.00 a.m.! However, no big deal, parking up in a car park opposite, I soon had two of my main targets in my sights - a splendid male Snail Kite on a bush just yonder and, yodelling like cats on steroids, two rather stunning Limpkins in a line of bushes aside a canal.

What a super vista it was - these two charismatic species to a backdrop of a gentle mist hanging over the marshes, an orange sun rising and squadrons of herons, egrets and ibises cutting across the sky. Boat-tailed Grackles gathered in bunches, a Belted Kingfisher peered down from overhead wires.

Impatient for the entrance to open, and moreover keen not to waste the best hour of the day, I abandoned my chum in charge of the car and proceeded on foot, deciding to walk the seven-mile trail that cuts across the marshes and seas of grass. Absolutely phenomenal it was, following a channel most of the way and absolutely packed with birds. Two-a-penny Anhingas, Great Blue Herons, Little Blue Herons, Tricoloured Herons, Great Egrets, Snowy Egrets, Double-crested Cormorants ... not little dots vanishing off in the distance, but virtually underfoot, most not even bothering to waddle out of the way! In a bush, four Black-crowned Night Herons at roost, overhead majestic Wood Storks soaring, what a nice way to start the day.

As the heat began to build, on I walked, a couple of Green Herons spotted, then the first of three American Bitterns, each rising from pools aside the track. Atop a wooded island, a gaggle of Wood Storks sat, still clearly waiting to rise from roost. From afar, the calls of Sandhill Cranes began to echo. By 10 a.m., with the temperature climbing towards its day high of 31 C (88 F), I decided I was not going to complete the full hike, i.e. seven miles each way, so did an about turn and began the wander back. Grey Catbirds and Palm Warblers were still active in shrubbery, another four Limpkins shuffled about on bushtops, but most impressive on the walk back were the Alligators! Whereas the walk out in the cooler conditions of early morning had merely resulted on a few snouts rising from the waters, the big beasties were now out and sunbathing ...dozens of them and right on the very track that I and other tourists were now walking along. Great fat things some of them, toothy grins and beady eyes to watch as you edged past them, no sweat to get within a metre without a flinch from them. Also found three snakes, identity yet to be established, but harmless water snakes I suspect.

Arrived back at the entrance about midday, kettles of Turkey Vultures hanging in the sky overhead, along with a couple of Ospreys and Red-shouldered Hawks. One American Purple Gallinule ambling along, quite a few dozen turtles out sunning, Florida Softshell Turtles and Peninsula Cooters I believe.

Refinding chum and car, it was then a slow drive back to Flamingo, a stop in Florida City's McDonalds my concession to sampling the local cuisine, Common Grackles in the car park outside perhaps more enthusiastic for the offerings than me. Arrived back in the campsite late in the day, one Red-shouldered Hawk on the grass, a surprise Broad-winged Hawk in woodland nearby. Did a little night drive in search of nighthawks or owls, failed to find any.
 
Enjoying the report Jos. Any photos of the snakes? I'm guessing Black Racer and/or Florida Water Snake - two of the most commonly seen species,
 
Haven't sorted photographs yet, but two reptiles ...
1. three Alligators
2. one of the snakes awaiting identification. Snake was a fast moving individual, hoping (thinking) he was a harmless species I lay on my belly as he slithered towards me to get this shot. Most ended up out of focus as he was zigzagging rather quickly. Maybe not a snake, but a slow worm type thing?
 

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Haven't sorted photographs yet, but two reptiles ...
1. three Alligators
2. one of the snakes awaiting identification. Snake was a fast moving individual, hoping (thinking) he was a harmless species I lay on my belly as he slithered towards me to get this shot. Most ended up out of focus as he was zigzagging rather quickly. Maybe not a snake, but a slow worm type thing?

Yes, it's an Ophisaurus Glass Lizard, possibly Eastern, although I don't have my guidebooks handy.
 
Yes, it's an Ophisaurus Glass Lizard, possibly Eastern, although I don't have my guidebooks handy.

Thanks for this. From checking snake images, other species seen was indeed Black Racer (as well as a second of these Glass Lizards).

Only other snake encountered on the trip was a largish thing in dry grassland, but saw virtually nothing on it, so no hope of an id here.
 
22 December. Lake Kissimmee.

5.00 a.m. departure from the Everglades National Park, destination the rich pastures east of Lake Kissimmee. If all went to plan, this single destination could produce more of my target birds than any other single locality, Red-cockaded Woodpecker, Brown-headed Nuthatch, Crested Caracara and Whooping Crane all most prominent.

With an early start, I was already cruising north through the Everglades agricultural areas as dawn broke, suitably impressed that even this rather monotonous landscape was pretty jam-packed with birds - herons and egrets of every variety, Belted Kingfishers at regular intervals, a Merlin spooking stuff on one occasion, plus my first Crested Caracara of the trip, a mighty bird indeed. Also, in one rather bog-infested area, three Marsh Rabbits on the roadside verge and, in a more wooded zone, a White-tailed Deer stampeding across the road.

Arriving at Lake Kissimmee, it was an absolute delight - unbroken sunshine again, temperatures sitting at about 28 C and stacks of birds all around in a most picturesque setting. Chucked up the tent, then sat back to admire the surroundings ...four Bald Eagles at various points, oodles of Turkey Vultures yet again, a mixed bunch of waterbirds just beyond the tent, Forster's Terns, Anhingas, Pied-billed Grebes and a vagrant Long-billed Curlew amongst the haul, and piling down for scraps of food 'accidently' dropped, masses of Boat-tailed Grackles.

Couldn't be doing with relaxing too long however ...two important birds awaited discovery in the nearby pastures and woodlands! Top of the list was Whooping Crane, one of North America's most critically endangered birds. With the remaining population limited to a handful of highly-vulnerable breeding pairs migrating between Wood Buffalo National Park in Canada and coastal districts of Texas, reintroduction projects were established with the goal of boosting the long-term prospects of the species. One of these schemes involved the establishment of a non-migratory population in central Florida and it was birds of this group that I was hoping to find. Scanning pastures along the famous Joe Overstreet Road, I was soon seeing Sandhill Cranes, a pair here, a pair there, then an absolutely fabulous flock of about 510. I was pretty confident I would find my Whooping Crane with these birds, but scan as I might, not a sign amongst them! One Crested Caracara sitting in a field, scattered flocks of Killdeers, quite a few Glossy Ibises. Up and down the length of the road I went, Loggerhead Shrikes and Eastern Phoebes on roadside wires, a splendid flock of about 600 Tree Swallows hawking over meadows, but no big white cranes. Giving up on Joe Overstreet, I then decided to venture a little further north ...and almost immediately hit the jackpot. Just a mile or so along the road, amongst cattle quietly grazing, a big white bird was stalking. Stopped the car, slung up the binoculars, and there he was, one majestic Whooping Crane plodding along. Not far from a side road, I realigned the car and sat and waited, the gentle giant slowing approaching, three Sandhill Cranes nearby for nice comparison. Well, that was good.

Next stop, the pine flatlands of the Three Lakes Wildlife Management Area. Although a designated hunting area, and late-December being at the heart of the hunting season for boars and deer, the area remains open for birders ... though the lady at the entrance did seriously advise that I both remained on the main tracks and wore florescent orange rather than my drab tee-short. So, in I went, the lure of potential Red-cockaded Woodpeckers overcoming my slight reservations that I might be mistaken for something worthy of shooting! Red-cockaded Woodpecker is another endangered bird, the shrinking populations limited to open pine forests in the south-east of the US, where the birds live in highly-dispersed family groups, each group highly territorial and ranging over quite large ranges. It is a bit like looking for needle in a haystack, but with one saving grace - the birds tend to return to roost each evening in favoured nesting holes, and these have largely been marked by white rings to protect them against cutting, etc. So, spot the white-ringed tree, wait till dusk and bingo, you get your bird. Well, not quite! Every tree that has ever been used by the woodpeckers has been ringed, and it was immediately apparent that these woodpeckers had bored many holes in many trees over the years ...there were white-ringed trees everywhere! Ah well, back to the time-honoured technique of putting in the legwork and hoping for a result!

Soon forgot about the requirement to stay on tracks and had a most enjoyable afternoon, a dozen or so Eastern Bluebirds in sunny glades, flocks of American Robins passing over, Pine Warblers fairly common and, after much searching, two Brown-headed Nuthatches, a very much desired bird indeed. Also, added one Cooper's Hawk, found a roosting Great Horned Owl and, despite encountering a few hunters, didn't manage to get myself shot. On the woodpecker front however, the best I could do was one Downy Woodpecker.

Sunset came, no Red-cockaded Woodpeckers appeared anywhere near any of the white-ringed trees that I was near. Back at camp, a Raccoon strolled past the tent, one Great Horned Owl called somewhere in the dark.
 
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Cranes...

Sandhill Cranes
Whooping Crane
 

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23 December - Lake Kissimmee.

If I had been a tad apprehensive wandering around in hunter-infested forests the day before, doing so in a mist-clad pre-dawn was downright spooky! As light of sorts began to reveal the outlines of pines, so too birds began to appear - roving flocks of Pine Warblers, American Robins emerging from roost, scolding House Wrens, a Swamp Sparrow sitting atop damp scrub. And so to the continuing search for Red-cockaded Woodpecker. Walking great arcs of the forest, I stuck to tracks as much as possible, but detoured widely to track down distant drilling and hammering that might lead me to my quarry. Woodpecker tally started to rise quite nicely ...six Red-bellied Woodpeckers, one Downy Woodpecker and no less than eight Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers! Nice birds all, but no sign of the target bird. By 10.30 a.m., with the sun again in full charge and another hot day developing, things were beginning to quieten down, I had encountered an Eastern Towhee, seen a Common Yellowthroat and bumped into quite a few Eastern Bluebirds, but the Red-cockaded Woodpeckers certainly seemed rather elusive.

Somewhere I had read that Red-cockaded Woodpeckers peck out little holes around active nest/roost holes to promote a flow of resin down the trees, probably as a defence mechanism against snakes and the like. Examining umpteen white-ringed trees, I eventually settled on two that seemed to have relatively fresh resin flows ....Red-cockaded Woodpeckers rarely spend the day anywhere near active roost sites, so, with these two holes only about a kilometre apart, I decided it might be a good idea to depart and return in the evening, focussing on this area.

Failed to relocate the Whooping Crane of the day before, but quickly found the big Sandhill Crane flock again, plus another Crested Caracara, a couple of Eastern Meadowlarks and a bunch of Wild Turkeys ambling along. Back at the campsite, under the pretence a couple of hours of relaxation, two Snail Kites were watched quartering the marsh, plucking giant Apple Snails from the vegetation, plonking down on stumps to devour them. Bald Eagles too, plus Red-shouldered Hawk and waterbirds, including Blue-winged Teal and assorted herons.

Mid-afternoon edged towards evening, time for another attempt on the Red-cockaded Woodpeckers, these blighters were becoming an obsession! One Gopher Tortoise on route and then back I was, walking through the open pines of the Wildlife Management Area. Nothing till about half an hour before dusk, then 50 metres short of one of my resin-lined roost holes, a sudden flit of a bird in a tall pine adjacent. Up with the binoculars and there, playing peep-po behind a twisted branch high in the tree, one Red-cockaded Woodpecker! And then, one tree across, another! But these were woodpeckers on a mission - no hanging about, they were hurtling through the forest, zipping from tree to tree, barely pausing to give each more than a passing peck. All too soon, I struggling to keep up, the last I noted was of them flying off in the general direction in the other resin-lined tree I had noted during the day. When I finally arrived, not a sign of either bird. I sat and scanned, nothing. Where had they gone? Then a thought occurred to me, maybe they had gone straight into their roost holes. Realigning I watched with care the hole, continuing to scan all around, and then, just for a brief second, a black and white face appeared at the hole, the birds were indeed already inside! Wow, they fly in from feeding areas distant and then vanish inside immediately. But, I had succeeded, not only finding the birds, but better still, I knew where they were sleeping, so I would get another crack at the whip at dawn next day!

With this, and the sun about to go down, I returned to camp, five White-tailed Deer in meadows, a few last Savannah Sparrows bunching up on roadside wires
 
22 December. Lake Kissimmee.

a roosting Great Grey Owl and, .

:eek!: Quite a find ;)

Sounds like a productive trip, congrats on the cranes and Red-cockaded Woodpecker. Mangrove Cuckoos are real jerks, I've visited Florida countless times and even lived in Miami for 8 months, and never so much as heard one in all that time (probably because I was never there in May/June). I finally got one in Costa Rica.
 
Thanks for posting, Jos. Takes me back to a visit made in Jan a few years ago when we covered most of the sites you've mentioned so far ( used the Pranty guide ) and saw most of the same birds. Failed on red-cockaded though !
Regards, Bill.
 
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