brianfm
Botanical Birder
Bird Watching Tour of Spain. 16th-30th April 2005
Having left Manchester airport for Madrid at 09.00 dreaming of sun and warmth, having come along the M62 in snow, I now realise I was being rather optimistic. The drive from Madrid to Jaca in the Pyrenees was a long but interesting one on good quiet roads and the bird life became interesting as we approached the Pyrenees with Griffin Vultures, Black and Red Kites and Crag Martins in good numbers. On arrival at Jaca it became apparent that fleeces and outer coverings were to be at least initially the order of the day.
Jaca/Pyrenees
I was off to a poor start for the first early morning walk when my spanking new electronic travelling alarm clock decided to revert to BST during the night and I arrived for the walk as others were returning all a little bemused as to why I was dressed in fleece and woolly hat for breakfast. I never the less soon caught up with the Firecrest, Short Toed Treecreeper and Serin outside of the hotel. Then it was a drive higher into the mountains to a Quarry on the hunt for Wallcreeper. After a climb up a very icy pathway in freezing conditions and a long search it seemed luck was not with us but no complaints as we were entertained by 4 Lammergeir, Griffin Vultures, Booted Eagles and Egyptian Vultures etc. Then the elusive Wallcreeper was found and watched for half an hour with small interruptions for quick looks at eagles and vultures. This experience was to prove a highlight of the tour. In slightly less treacherous conditions than earlier we returned to the transport for a trip to the ski resort where numerous Alpine Choughs were found as we ate lunch. The landscape was spectacular. Dippers and Rock Buntings were amongst afternoon finds. On an evening walk in Jaca at least 20 Red Kites circled overhead and a Green Woodpecker was found, Iberian sharpie race. A new species for the future I wonder? Post dinner brought European Scops Owl.
The following day, with alarm clock altered, the early morning walk around the citadel brought Rock Sparrow, Treesparrow, Black Redstart and the ever present Red Kites and Griffin Vultures. A further exciting trip high into the mountains to San Juan de la Penna monastery brought Black and Great Spotted Woodpecker, but not as hoped for, Citril Finch. White Storks appeared to be with us most of the day. Sadly so were heavy rain showers but not enough to spoil the birding. The evening walk to the 17 Century San Miguel bridge at Jaca brought excellent views of a pair of Cirl Bunting, Booted and Short Toed Eagle and of course Red Kites. No need to search for owls tonight having found them the day before so enjoyed my meal of wild boar knowing I could have an early night.
Sepulveda/Surrounding Area
After an early morning walk in Jaca it was off on the long drive to Sepulveda and Dupont Lark territory via Burgos where, incidentally, El Cid is buried and which has a wonderful Cathedral, interesting or what?.
On Arrival at about 16.00 I must say the landscape did not appear very inspiring after the excitement of the Pyrenees but my opinion soon changed after the drive to the Ermita de San Frutos Hermitage and gorge and some fantastic sightings of Rock Thrush, Southern Grey Shrike and Black Eared Wheatear. Approx 80 Griffon Vultures were seen today, most of them in the gorge area.
The morning brought a 06.30 start on the hunt for Duponts Lark and despite being much further south the air was biting cold, but it was dry. Well I can certainly say that the song of this illusive bird is one I will always remember and I am pretty sure I caught sight of one scuttling amongst the vegetation but would not swear to it. Well thinking we would never have a good sighting of this bird we moved on to the gorge anticipating another early start in the morning for another search. We walked partially down into the gorge to the church all of the time being circled by Griffin Vultures. The Collins Guide says this bird is scarce. Well all I can say is it certainly is not scarce in the areas I visited. There are approx 500 breeding pairs in this particular National Park according to the ranger. Red Billed Choughs, Ravens and Egyptian Vultures put in an appearance. Returning from the gorge in the early afternoon we were met by a Duponts Lark singing from a large bolder in the open. Some one must have forgotten to tell him the time. Can’t say its appearance set the heart pounding but I was pleased to have seen the species and add it to my little list. The day also brought Calandra Lark, Short-toed Lark, Crested Lark, Thekla Lark, Woodlark and Skylark and a supporting cast which included Spectacled Warbler, Woodchat Shrike, N Wheatear, Black Eared Wheatear, Rock Thrush, Blue Rock Thrush and Montagues Harrier followed by Quail for dinner, but don’t tell anyone, please!
The following day on leaving Sepulveda we headed for a site near the Navafria Pass as it seemed the leader of the group was determined that we see Citril Finch and before we reached the pass we did see several and other birds including Cuckoo and a wonderfully close up, side on view of a Crossbill which showed off the bill beautifully. I informed the Leader that I thought the Citril Finch looked rather like a washed out Greenfinch. I don’t think he was impressed by my description! Then it was on to the Monfrague National Park in Extemadura and as it turned out sun and warmth at last!
Extemadura/Monfrague National Park
The drive had been another long one via Segovia but to see the landscape in Extemadura was well worth the effort. Saw what was to be the first of many Azure Winged Magpies on the journey. We made straight for Penafalcon Crag in the heart of the N. Park and the views were stunning. So were the Black Storks, Black Vultures and a Peregrine Falcon seen plucking its prey. Also seen were 3 Bonelli’s Eagles, Booted Eagles, Common Buzzards, Short Toed Eagles, Egyptian Vultures, Griffon Vultures, Black and Red Kites. Alpine Swifts and Red Rumped Swallows were around in numbers.
The following day we headed for the same area and also the Tietar Cliff where we found two very impressive Spanish Imperial Eagles. We had been made aware that there were Eagle Owls in the area and that one pair had delivered three young.
Our leader asked a fellow German birder if he had seen any sign of them and was apparently met with a negative reply. We scoured the mountainside never the less. A Spanish birder later informed us that he and the German birder had been watching an adult owl with young and he thought we had known this. Oh well I hope the fellow who wouldn’t tell us had a good day! Anyway we moved our scopes down the road and had great sightings of the Eagle Owl on the rock side with its very large youngster. Needless to say there were lots of Griffon Vultures.
The afternoon climb to the castle ruins brought 2 Golden Eagles and the best yet sightings of Griffon Vultures, many of them circling below us. I should not forget the fantastic views of Extremadura and of Zitting Cisticola, Subalpine Warbler and Sardinian Warbler.
Next day took us to the Belen Plain where we had sighting of Long Legged Buzzard, a first for Extremadura I believe, and Bald Ibis. No doubt discussion will be on going about the Ibis and where it originated from. I understand that they are being introduced to Iberia, but these birds are ringed and this one was not. Think I have that correct. So as far as I am concerned it was a good tick until some one convinces me otherwise. Also managed to count 24 Great Bustard (20 in one group) and 15 little Bustard, 2 Little Owls and good numbers of Bee-Eater, Hoopoe, 1 Roller and numerous Corn Buntings. Counted 40 Montague’s Harriers and one of the highlights of the trip was watching 4 M Harriers mob a Golden Eagle. Wow.
In the morning we had the chance of a little touristy behaviour and a short exploration of Trujillo town, but even here we kept our eyes open for Lesser Kestrel and were not disappointed. Then it was another long drive to El Rocio at Coto Donana.
Coto Donana
El Rocio is a strange place. Bit like a wild west film set with Spanish architecture. The streets are sand and some locals ride around on horseback, one or two with beer in hand. Apparently once a year a million+ pilgrims converge on this little town to celebrate some Virgin or other. Dear knows were they all stay and it sounded like a big orgy to me, or Saturday night in Newcastle city centre. I shall have to find out the dates and pay a visit! Anyway didn’t have any time to find out about the Virgin as we birded the El Rocio Lagoon that evening. Birds included Greater Flamingos 600+, Glossy Ibis 25+, Red Crested Pochard, Purple Herons, Cattle Egrets, Little Egrets, Black Winged Stilts, Avocets, Collared Pratincoles, etc etc etc. I suppose the highlight had to be the vagrant Long Billed Dowitcher. How any one tells the difference between Long and Short Billed Dowitcher remains a mystery to me! After dinner it was time to search for Red Necked Nightjar. The area we went to was next to a busy main road with little chance of hearing the bird calling so the leader asked at a local restaurant/motel if we could enter the grounds as it was know that Nightjars frequented the area.
The request was granted and through the restaurant we trod, leader in shorts and tea shirt, the rest of us wrapped up for a chilly evening and all carrying torches and bins. The Spanish couple having a quiet romantic meal, I think thought that the cabaret was about to start. Anyway we were joined by the motel cat.In the distance a pair of eyes was seen, another cat I thought, but no, others were convinced it was a Nightjar and my belief that it was a cat went out of the window when it flew off. Red Necked Nightjar the leader said. Well I don’t disbelieve him but I am not ticking a pair of eyes seen from 100 yards. We left saying goodnight to the friendly cat and the restaurant staff wished us a good evening. Well I think that was what they said! The Spanish couple had left and rather quickly I imagine.
For the next two days we birded the Coto Donana area. Good to see waders like Curlew Sandpiper, Black Tailed Godwits, Ruff and Spotted Redshank in full breeding plumage. Lots of Purple Gallinule about also. Spectacular to see the flock of Flamingo’s in flight and managed to find a single Red Knobbed Coot amongst hundreds of common Coots only because of a rather large white numbered collar!
I had been hoping for sightings of warblers and in this area we found Savi’s, Cetti’s, Reed, Great Reed, Melodious and Iberian Chiffchaff. A local guide who joined us towards the end of the tour informed us that resident Zitting Cisticolas and Sardinian Warblers were down by 90%+ following the coldest winter for many years. It seems it is unclear as to whether the birds have died or moved further south. During a lunch stop we were surrounded by about 30 Azure Winged Magpies and had excellent views of this beautiful bird made even more appealing in the bright light. I must say I was rather amused to watch one member of the group take photographs of the magpies eating lumps of French stick when in fact far more natural shots could have been had of the birds sitting in the trees next to us.
On the final morning at Coto Donana we watched the sunrise over the Lagoon and El Rocio before setting off for Tarifa on the south coast.
Tarifa.
Prior to arriving at Tarifa we made stops at Laguna De Comissario and Laguna Du Medina. At the former I am told that a dark dot in the distance was a female White Headed Duck. To me it was a dark dot and certainly not worthy of a tick. At the latter we found Great Crested and Black Necked Grebe. I had accepted by now that White Headed Duck was to escape my list. Just then one of the group give out one of the loudest sneezes I have ever heard which disturbed a large group of Coots from the reeds and amongst them was what appeared to be two female White Headed Ducks. On closer scrutiny one turned out to be a dark headed male. Well I will settle for that. Incidentally we never once saw any Ruddy Ducks! On approaching Tarifa we were met by a gigantic wind farm (although not against green energy in principal I found hundred of wind turbines to be a blot on the landscape and goodness knows what the effect will be upon the many migrant birds coming through this area) There was certainty enough wind to keep the machines moving! This was the second mega wind farm I had seen in Spain as another exists near, I think, Zaragoza. On arrival it was nice to have a coffee and gaze at Morocco and at least the winds cooled me down.
Up with the larks the following morning for a short sea watch. Never my favourite kind of birding but did see Cory’s Shearwater, Audouin’s Gulls and Yellow Legged Gulls. The highlight of the time spent at Tarifa was watching 100+ Honey Buzzards and 100s of Black Kites on Migration. The light was just right for watching this and the Buzzards showed up so well. Also seen were Marsh Harriers, Peregrine Falcons, Sparrowhawks, Kestrels, Egyptian Vultures, Booted Eagles, Short Toed Eagles and of course more Griffon Vultures. Iberian Chiffchaff and Grey Plovers in summer plumage also remain in the memory.
Next morning it was up for another early but thankfully short sea watch in even stronger winds. Saw some Yellow Legged Gulls! Then it was off for a gaze at Gibraltar and a little piece of remaining empire. Rather shrouded in haze but interesting. Then off through the mountains to Ronda. Some fantastic scenery and typical Spanish mountain villages. Even better great views of Bonelli’s Warbler and a pair of Black Wheatears after much searching.
Ronda
‘The town Ronda is one of the most popular visitor destinations in Andalucia.
It stands on a towering plateau, which is divided in two by a plunging river gorge known as El Tajo.
El Tajo is spanned by a bridge called the Puente Nuevo which was built in the eighteenth century and provides access to both sides of Ronda.
On one side of the bridge is the old Moorish town with many historic buildings including the House of the Moorish King.
On the other side you will find El Mercadillo, a more recent urban development. Because of the cliffs it was one of the last towns taken by the crusaders.’
Just thought I would add that little bit of wisdom in case you were getting bored with the birds!!
Late afternoon was spent over looking the gorge and exploring’ rather quickly’ the old Moorish town. Somewhere I would like to return for a more in depth look. Birds saw included, Alpine Swifts, Lesser Kestrels, Red Billed Choughs, Rock Martin, Rock Sparrow, Peregrine Falcon, and Blue Rock Thrush. The following morning allowed another viewing of the gorge before the drive through mountain scenery then a pretty awful built up southern coast line including Torremolinos (apologies if you like the Spanish costas!) onwards to Malaga airport and a return home.
Tour Organiser: Sunbird Tours
Participants: 8 +Leaders. (4 Americans, 3 English and a Geordie i.e. me) By mid way through the second week I think everyone understood what I was saying! I still had a problem with one or two of them though!
Distance covered: 4,000 Kilometres approx.
Bird List
Little Grebe, Great Crested Grebe, Black Necked Grebe, Cory’s Shearwater, Gannet, Grey Heron, Purple Heron, Night Heron, Squacco Heron, Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Great Egret, Black Stork, White Stork, Spoonbill, Glossy Ibis, Bald Ibis, Greater Flamingo, Greylag Goose, Gadwall, Mallard, Red Crested Pochard, Pochard, Shoveller, White Headed Duck, Black Kite100s, Red Kite50+, Lammergeier4, Egyptian Vulture20+, Griffon Vulture500+, Black Vulture20+, Short Toed Eagle15+, Marsh Harrier6, Montague’s Harrier 50+, Sparrowhawk4, Common Buzzard20+, Honey Buzzard100+, Long Legged Buzzard1, Spanish Imperial Eagle2, Golden Eagle3, Booted Eagle40+, Bonneli’s Eagle3, Lesser Kestrel 15+, Common Kestrel 60+ Peregrine Falcon6, Red Legged Partridge, Moorhen, Purple Galinule100+, Coot, Red Knobbed Coot, Little Bustard15, Great Bustard25, Black Winged Stilt, Avocet, Stone Curlew, Collared Pratincole, Little Ringed Plover, Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Grey Plover, Lapwing, Knot, Sanderling, Little Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, Dunlin, Ruff, Common Snipe, Black Tailed Godwit, Whimbrel, Spotted Redshank, C. Redshank, Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Long Billed Dowitcher, Turnstone, Black Headed Gull, Lesser Black Backed Gull, Yellow Legged Gull, Audouin’s Gull, Gull Billed Tern, Sandwich Tern, Caspian Tern, Whiskered Tern, Black Tern, Black Bellied Sandgrouse, Stock Dove, Woodpigeon, Collared Dove, Turtle Dove, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Cuckoo, E. Scops Owl, Eagle Owl, Little Owl, Common Swift, Pallid Swift, Alpine Swift, E. Bee-eater, Roller, Hoopoe, Green Woodpecker (sharpie), Great Spotted Woodpecker, Black Woodpecker, Calandra Lark, Short Toed Lark, Lesser Short Toed Lark, Crested Lark, Thekla Lark, Woodlark, Skylark, Dupont’s Lark, Sand Martin, Crag Martin, Barn Swallow, Red-Rumped Swallow, House Martin, Tawny Pipit, Water pipit, Tree Pipit, Yellow Wagtail (Iberian), Grey Wagtail, White Wagtail, Dipper, Wren, Robin, Nightingale, Black Redstart, C. Redstart, Whinchat, Stonechat, Wheatear, Black Eared Wheatear, Black Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Thrush, Blackbird, Mistle Thrush, Zitting Cisticola, Cetti’s Warbler, Savi’s Warbler, Reed Warbler, Great Reed Warbler, Melodious Warbler, C. Whitethroat, Spectacled Warbler, Subalpine Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Blackcap, Western Boneli’s Warbler, Chiffchaff, Iberian Chiffchaff, Willow Warbler, Firecrest, Pied Flycatcher, Crested Tit, Coal Tit, Blue tit, Great Tit, Nuthatch, Short Toed Treecreeper, Wallcreeper, Southern Grey Shrike, Woodchat Shrike, Jay, Azure Winged Magpie, Magpie, Alpine Chough, Red Billed Chough, Jackdaw, Carrion Crow, Rook, Raven, Spotless Starling, House Sparrow, Spanish Sparrow, Tree Sparrow, Rock Sparrow, Chaffinch, Serin, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Citril Finch, Linnet, C. Crossbill, Eurasian Bullfinch, Hawfinch, Cirl Bunting, Rock Bunting, Corn Bunting.
Brian Moorhead 6th May 2005
Having left Manchester airport for Madrid at 09.00 dreaming of sun and warmth, having come along the M62 in snow, I now realise I was being rather optimistic. The drive from Madrid to Jaca in the Pyrenees was a long but interesting one on good quiet roads and the bird life became interesting as we approached the Pyrenees with Griffin Vultures, Black and Red Kites and Crag Martins in good numbers. On arrival at Jaca it became apparent that fleeces and outer coverings were to be at least initially the order of the day.
Jaca/Pyrenees
I was off to a poor start for the first early morning walk when my spanking new electronic travelling alarm clock decided to revert to BST during the night and I arrived for the walk as others were returning all a little bemused as to why I was dressed in fleece and woolly hat for breakfast. I never the less soon caught up with the Firecrest, Short Toed Treecreeper and Serin outside of the hotel. Then it was a drive higher into the mountains to a Quarry on the hunt for Wallcreeper. After a climb up a very icy pathway in freezing conditions and a long search it seemed luck was not with us but no complaints as we were entertained by 4 Lammergeir, Griffin Vultures, Booted Eagles and Egyptian Vultures etc. Then the elusive Wallcreeper was found and watched for half an hour with small interruptions for quick looks at eagles and vultures. This experience was to prove a highlight of the tour. In slightly less treacherous conditions than earlier we returned to the transport for a trip to the ski resort where numerous Alpine Choughs were found as we ate lunch. The landscape was spectacular. Dippers and Rock Buntings were amongst afternoon finds. On an evening walk in Jaca at least 20 Red Kites circled overhead and a Green Woodpecker was found, Iberian sharpie race. A new species for the future I wonder? Post dinner brought European Scops Owl.
The following day, with alarm clock altered, the early morning walk around the citadel brought Rock Sparrow, Treesparrow, Black Redstart and the ever present Red Kites and Griffin Vultures. A further exciting trip high into the mountains to San Juan de la Penna monastery brought Black and Great Spotted Woodpecker, but not as hoped for, Citril Finch. White Storks appeared to be with us most of the day. Sadly so were heavy rain showers but not enough to spoil the birding. The evening walk to the 17 Century San Miguel bridge at Jaca brought excellent views of a pair of Cirl Bunting, Booted and Short Toed Eagle and of course Red Kites. No need to search for owls tonight having found them the day before so enjoyed my meal of wild boar knowing I could have an early night.
Sepulveda/Surrounding Area
After an early morning walk in Jaca it was off on the long drive to Sepulveda and Dupont Lark territory via Burgos where, incidentally, El Cid is buried and which has a wonderful Cathedral, interesting or what?.
On Arrival at about 16.00 I must say the landscape did not appear very inspiring after the excitement of the Pyrenees but my opinion soon changed after the drive to the Ermita de San Frutos Hermitage and gorge and some fantastic sightings of Rock Thrush, Southern Grey Shrike and Black Eared Wheatear. Approx 80 Griffon Vultures were seen today, most of them in the gorge area.
The morning brought a 06.30 start on the hunt for Duponts Lark and despite being much further south the air was biting cold, but it was dry. Well I can certainly say that the song of this illusive bird is one I will always remember and I am pretty sure I caught sight of one scuttling amongst the vegetation but would not swear to it. Well thinking we would never have a good sighting of this bird we moved on to the gorge anticipating another early start in the morning for another search. We walked partially down into the gorge to the church all of the time being circled by Griffin Vultures. The Collins Guide says this bird is scarce. Well all I can say is it certainly is not scarce in the areas I visited. There are approx 500 breeding pairs in this particular National Park according to the ranger. Red Billed Choughs, Ravens and Egyptian Vultures put in an appearance. Returning from the gorge in the early afternoon we were met by a Duponts Lark singing from a large bolder in the open. Some one must have forgotten to tell him the time. Can’t say its appearance set the heart pounding but I was pleased to have seen the species and add it to my little list. The day also brought Calandra Lark, Short-toed Lark, Crested Lark, Thekla Lark, Woodlark and Skylark and a supporting cast which included Spectacled Warbler, Woodchat Shrike, N Wheatear, Black Eared Wheatear, Rock Thrush, Blue Rock Thrush and Montagues Harrier followed by Quail for dinner, but don’t tell anyone, please!
The following day on leaving Sepulveda we headed for a site near the Navafria Pass as it seemed the leader of the group was determined that we see Citril Finch and before we reached the pass we did see several and other birds including Cuckoo and a wonderfully close up, side on view of a Crossbill which showed off the bill beautifully. I informed the Leader that I thought the Citril Finch looked rather like a washed out Greenfinch. I don’t think he was impressed by my description! Then it was on to the Monfrague National Park in Extemadura and as it turned out sun and warmth at last!
Extemadura/Monfrague National Park
The drive had been another long one via Segovia but to see the landscape in Extemadura was well worth the effort. Saw what was to be the first of many Azure Winged Magpies on the journey. We made straight for Penafalcon Crag in the heart of the N. Park and the views were stunning. So were the Black Storks, Black Vultures and a Peregrine Falcon seen plucking its prey. Also seen were 3 Bonelli’s Eagles, Booted Eagles, Common Buzzards, Short Toed Eagles, Egyptian Vultures, Griffon Vultures, Black and Red Kites. Alpine Swifts and Red Rumped Swallows were around in numbers.
The following day we headed for the same area and also the Tietar Cliff where we found two very impressive Spanish Imperial Eagles. We had been made aware that there were Eagle Owls in the area and that one pair had delivered three young.
Our leader asked a fellow German birder if he had seen any sign of them and was apparently met with a negative reply. We scoured the mountainside never the less. A Spanish birder later informed us that he and the German birder had been watching an adult owl with young and he thought we had known this. Oh well I hope the fellow who wouldn’t tell us had a good day! Anyway we moved our scopes down the road and had great sightings of the Eagle Owl on the rock side with its very large youngster. Needless to say there were lots of Griffon Vultures.
The afternoon climb to the castle ruins brought 2 Golden Eagles and the best yet sightings of Griffon Vultures, many of them circling below us. I should not forget the fantastic views of Extremadura and of Zitting Cisticola, Subalpine Warbler and Sardinian Warbler.
Next day took us to the Belen Plain where we had sighting of Long Legged Buzzard, a first for Extremadura I believe, and Bald Ibis. No doubt discussion will be on going about the Ibis and where it originated from. I understand that they are being introduced to Iberia, but these birds are ringed and this one was not. Think I have that correct. So as far as I am concerned it was a good tick until some one convinces me otherwise. Also managed to count 24 Great Bustard (20 in one group) and 15 little Bustard, 2 Little Owls and good numbers of Bee-Eater, Hoopoe, 1 Roller and numerous Corn Buntings. Counted 40 Montague’s Harriers and one of the highlights of the trip was watching 4 M Harriers mob a Golden Eagle. Wow.
In the morning we had the chance of a little touristy behaviour and a short exploration of Trujillo town, but even here we kept our eyes open for Lesser Kestrel and were not disappointed. Then it was another long drive to El Rocio at Coto Donana.
Coto Donana
El Rocio is a strange place. Bit like a wild west film set with Spanish architecture. The streets are sand and some locals ride around on horseback, one or two with beer in hand. Apparently once a year a million+ pilgrims converge on this little town to celebrate some Virgin or other. Dear knows were they all stay and it sounded like a big orgy to me, or Saturday night in Newcastle city centre. I shall have to find out the dates and pay a visit! Anyway didn’t have any time to find out about the Virgin as we birded the El Rocio Lagoon that evening. Birds included Greater Flamingos 600+, Glossy Ibis 25+, Red Crested Pochard, Purple Herons, Cattle Egrets, Little Egrets, Black Winged Stilts, Avocets, Collared Pratincoles, etc etc etc. I suppose the highlight had to be the vagrant Long Billed Dowitcher. How any one tells the difference between Long and Short Billed Dowitcher remains a mystery to me! After dinner it was time to search for Red Necked Nightjar. The area we went to was next to a busy main road with little chance of hearing the bird calling so the leader asked at a local restaurant/motel if we could enter the grounds as it was know that Nightjars frequented the area.
The request was granted and through the restaurant we trod, leader in shorts and tea shirt, the rest of us wrapped up for a chilly evening and all carrying torches and bins. The Spanish couple having a quiet romantic meal, I think thought that the cabaret was about to start. Anyway we were joined by the motel cat.In the distance a pair of eyes was seen, another cat I thought, but no, others were convinced it was a Nightjar and my belief that it was a cat went out of the window when it flew off. Red Necked Nightjar the leader said. Well I don’t disbelieve him but I am not ticking a pair of eyes seen from 100 yards. We left saying goodnight to the friendly cat and the restaurant staff wished us a good evening. Well I think that was what they said! The Spanish couple had left and rather quickly I imagine.
For the next two days we birded the Coto Donana area. Good to see waders like Curlew Sandpiper, Black Tailed Godwits, Ruff and Spotted Redshank in full breeding plumage. Lots of Purple Gallinule about also. Spectacular to see the flock of Flamingo’s in flight and managed to find a single Red Knobbed Coot amongst hundreds of common Coots only because of a rather large white numbered collar!
I had been hoping for sightings of warblers and in this area we found Savi’s, Cetti’s, Reed, Great Reed, Melodious and Iberian Chiffchaff. A local guide who joined us towards the end of the tour informed us that resident Zitting Cisticolas and Sardinian Warblers were down by 90%+ following the coldest winter for many years. It seems it is unclear as to whether the birds have died or moved further south. During a lunch stop we were surrounded by about 30 Azure Winged Magpies and had excellent views of this beautiful bird made even more appealing in the bright light. I must say I was rather amused to watch one member of the group take photographs of the magpies eating lumps of French stick when in fact far more natural shots could have been had of the birds sitting in the trees next to us.
On the final morning at Coto Donana we watched the sunrise over the Lagoon and El Rocio before setting off for Tarifa on the south coast.
Tarifa.
Prior to arriving at Tarifa we made stops at Laguna De Comissario and Laguna Du Medina. At the former I am told that a dark dot in the distance was a female White Headed Duck. To me it was a dark dot and certainly not worthy of a tick. At the latter we found Great Crested and Black Necked Grebe. I had accepted by now that White Headed Duck was to escape my list. Just then one of the group give out one of the loudest sneezes I have ever heard which disturbed a large group of Coots from the reeds and amongst them was what appeared to be two female White Headed Ducks. On closer scrutiny one turned out to be a dark headed male. Well I will settle for that. Incidentally we never once saw any Ruddy Ducks! On approaching Tarifa we were met by a gigantic wind farm (although not against green energy in principal I found hundred of wind turbines to be a blot on the landscape and goodness knows what the effect will be upon the many migrant birds coming through this area) There was certainty enough wind to keep the machines moving! This was the second mega wind farm I had seen in Spain as another exists near, I think, Zaragoza. On arrival it was nice to have a coffee and gaze at Morocco and at least the winds cooled me down.
Up with the larks the following morning for a short sea watch. Never my favourite kind of birding but did see Cory’s Shearwater, Audouin’s Gulls and Yellow Legged Gulls. The highlight of the time spent at Tarifa was watching 100+ Honey Buzzards and 100s of Black Kites on Migration. The light was just right for watching this and the Buzzards showed up so well. Also seen were Marsh Harriers, Peregrine Falcons, Sparrowhawks, Kestrels, Egyptian Vultures, Booted Eagles, Short Toed Eagles and of course more Griffon Vultures. Iberian Chiffchaff and Grey Plovers in summer plumage also remain in the memory.
Next morning it was up for another early but thankfully short sea watch in even stronger winds. Saw some Yellow Legged Gulls! Then it was off for a gaze at Gibraltar and a little piece of remaining empire. Rather shrouded in haze but interesting. Then off through the mountains to Ronda. Some fantastic scenery and typical Spanish mountain villages. Even better great views of Bonelli’s Warbler and a pair of Black Wheatears after much searching.
Ronda
‘The town Ronda is one of the most popular visitor destinations in Andalucia.
It stands on a towering plateau, which is divided in two by a plunging river gorge known as El Tajo.
El Tajo is spanned by a bridge called the Puente Nuevo which was built in the eighteenth century and provides access to both sides of Ronda.
On one side of the bridge is the old Moorish town with many historic buildings including the House of the Moorish King.
On the other side you will find El Mercadillo, a more recent urban development. Because of the cliffs it was one of the last towns taken by the crusaders.’
Just thought I would add that little bit of wisdom in case you were getting bored with the birds!!
Late afternoon was spent over looking the gorge and exploring’ rather quickly’ the old Moorish town. Somewhere I would like to return for a more in depth look. Birds saw included, Alpine Swifts, Lesser Kestrels, Red Billed Choughs, Rock Martin, Rock Sparrow, Peregrine Falcon, and Blue Rock Thrush. The following morning allowed another viewing of the gorge before the drive through mountain scenery then a pretty awful built up southern coast line including Torremolinos (apologies if you like the Spanish costas!) onwards to Malaga airport and a return home.
Tour Organiser: Sunbird Tours
Participants: 8 +Leaders. (4 Americans, 3 English and a Geordie i.e. me) By mid way through the second week I think everyone understood what I was saying! I still had a problem with one or two of them though!
Distance covered: 4,000 Kilometres approx.
Bird List
Little Grebe, Great Crested Grebe, Black Necked Grebe, Cory’s Shearwater, Gannet, Grey Heron, Purple Heron, Night Heron, Squacco Heron, Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Great Egret, Black Stork, White Stork, Spoonbill, Glossy Ibis, Bald Ibis, Greater Flamingo, Greylag Goose, Gadwall, Mallard, Red Crested Pochard, Pochard, Shoveller, White Headed Duck, Black Kite100s, Red Kite50+, Lammergeier4, Egyptian Vulture20+, Griffon Vulture500+, Black Vulture20+, Short Toed Eagle15+, Marsh Harrier6, Montague’s Harrier 50+, Sparrowhawk4, Common Buzzard20+, Honey Buzzard100+, Long Legged Buzzard1, Spanish Imperial Eagle2, Golden Eagle3, Booted Eagle40+, Bonneli’s Eagle3, Lesser Kestrel 15+, Common Kestrel 60+ Peregrine Falcon6, Red Legged Partridge, Moorhen, Purple Galinule100+, Coot, Red Knobbed Coot, Little Bustard15, Great Bustard25, Black Winged Stilt, Avocet, Stone Curlew, Collared Pratincole, Little Ringed Plover, Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Grey Plover, Lapwing, Knot, Sanderling, Little Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, Dunlin, Ruff, Common Snipe, Black Tailed Godwit, Whimbrel, Spotted Redshank, C. Redshank, Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Long Billed Dowitcher, Turnstone, Black Headed Gull, Lesser Black Backed Gull, Yellow Legged Gull, Audouin’s Gull, Gull Billed Tern, Sandwich Tern, Caspian Tern, Whiskered Tern, Black Tern, Black Bellied Sandgrouse, Stock Dove, Woodpigeon, Collared Dove, Turtle Dove, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Cuckoo, E. Scops Owl, Eagle Owl, Little Owl, Common Swift, Pallid Swift, Alpine Swift, E. Bee-eater, Roller, Hoopoe, Green Woodpecker (sharpie), Great Spotted Woodpecker, Black Woodpecker, Calandra Lark, Short Toed Lark, Lesser Short Toed Lark, Crested Lark, Thekla Lark, Woodlark, Skylark, Dupont’s Lark, Sand Martin, Crag Martin, Barn Swallow, Red-Rumped Swallow, House Martin, Tawny Pipit, Water pipit, Tree Pipit, Yellow Wagtail (Iberian), Grey Wagtail, White Wagtail, Dipper, Wren, Robin, Nightingale, Black Redstart, C. Redstart, Whinchat, Stonechat, Wheatear, Black Eared Wheatear, Black Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Thrush, Blackbird, Mistle Thrush, Zitting Cisticola, Cetti’s Warbler, Savi’s Warbler, Reed Warbler, Great Reed Warbler, Melodious Warbler, C. Whitethroat, Spectacled Warbler, Subalpine Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Blackcap, Western Boneli’s Warbler, Chiffchaff, Iberian Chiffchaff, Willow Warbler, Firecrest, Pied Flycatcher, Crested Tit, Coal Tit, Blue tit, Great Tit, Nuthatch, Short Toed Treecreeper, Wallcreeper, Southern Grey Shrike, Woodchat Shrike, Jay, Azure Winged Magpie, Magpie, Alpine Chough, Red Billed Chough, Jackdaw, Carrion Crow, Rook, Raven, Spotless Starling, House Sparrow, Spanish Sparrow, Tree Sparrow, Rock Sparrow, Chaffinch, Serin, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Citril Finch, Linnet, C. Crossbill, Eurasian Bullfinch, Hawfinch, Cirl Bunting, Rock Bunting, Corn Bunting.
Brian Moorhead 6th May 2005
