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I'm stuck, Need HELP.... (1 Viewer)

Steve Norton

Steve Norton

Member
Can anyone assist me in trying to sort out my digiscoping problems with my new camera. Just got an Olympus E600 DSLR and i'm using a Opticron scope. Brought a photo adaptor at the west mids bird fair and camera fits scope well.
Problem is with images. The outside of the shot looks out of focus and has a swirrling affect to it. I'm not really sure of the best settings to use on the camera and the main problem being the auto focus doesn't work when the lens is removed from the camera to attach it to the scope.
If anyone has any ideas how i may be able to improve my poor images please give me a shout and private message me as well would you, sorry to be a pain in the ass.
Thanks, Steve Norton......
 
Do you still use the scope eyepiece or connnect straight to the scope body with the adapter? I have an Opticron scope and a Canon DSLR and only works well with eyepiece zoomed out (so at 20x for my 20-60x), on a good tripod, in good light, focusing using the scope focus wheel viewed through the viewfinder, camera in manual mode, set a high or highish ISO (800 plus is normal), then go for the fastest shutter as you can muster.
Oh. If your adapter fits over a scope eyepiece like mine, make sure the adapter is right on/all the way down/as far as it will go before tightening the ring.
 
Hello Paul. I do use the scope eyepeice and the adaptor fits to the camera after taking the lens of. Then fits over the eye peice and locks down. It has a good fit. The problem seems to be my ignorance of the best camera settings to use, i set it to A on the program dial and turn off the automatic flash. I think because i have to remove the lens i dont have the auto focus capability anymore which is a bit of a pain.

If you have any suggestions i would appreciate it. I'm in touch with a couple of guys who may be able to help so fingers crossed.

Cheers, Steve Norton...
 
Hi Steve

If you're still having problems uploading trying following these steHow to attach pictures

If you are in a new thread press the grey "Manage Attachments" button. If you are replying to a post you need to press "Go Advanced" first rather than use "Quick Reply".

Press "Browse" to find the picture and the press Upload. Now wait until you see that the upload has completed (information about the file will appear). Attach any other pictures in the same way and then press "Close this Window".

Your picture(s) should now be attached.

You need to resize your photo so it is less than 200kb, although it is advisable to keep file sizes below 100kb. The dimensions of any photos should be no more than 900 x 900. If you need more help let us know.

D
 
Help needed.

This is the photo i have been trying to up load and think i may have done it. As i said earlier i have just got a E600 Olympus DSLR camera to digi scope with. As you can see in the photo of the heron which was took on a not to bad a day that the outside of the shot is very swirly and out of focus. My main problem is my ignorance of good slr skills so if anyone could give me advice or pointers about settings and tips i would be indebted.
At the moment i'm using the camera on program P and turing of the auto flash. Not havng much luck or fun to be truthfull. I have been digi scoping a few years with a compact so know the basics.
Any advice would be welcome. Thanks for taking the time everyone, Cheers, Steve Norton......
 

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I've managed to get the photo up loaded Steve with the kind help of Delia Todd, thanks Delia.
Hope this may help you all to suss my problem.

Cheers., Steve Norton......
 
This is a known issue when you connect dslr camera directly to an low-medium power eyepiece without a camera lens. Digiscoping in this manner is intended only for very high magnifications of 100x+, usually for photographing the Moon or planets. If your scope OEM does not make a dslr adapter you will need to use a 20~25mm prime lens on the camera. You will probably get vignetting, but at least you might get some AF functionality though AF systems usuall have a tought time at such small apertures.
 
Most eyepieces don't project a flat image and your photo shows this very well. Eyepieces are designed for how the eye sees through them and not for projecting onto camera sensors. The makers of these adapters don't tell you this though and they leave you to find out once you have parted with your hard earned cash.

The astro guys that photograph planets and stuff tend to use an orthoscopic eyepiece which projects a mostly flat image.

With your eyepiece the only way to remove all that blurred stuff is to increase the distance of the camera to the eyepiece. This means only the middle portion of the image will be projected onto the camera sensor. The main problem with this though is that as you increase distance from the eyepiece the magnification also increases greatly and shutter speed drops. As RJM pointed out, this method is best left for space photography.

Paul.
 
RJM said:
This is a known issue when you connect dslr camera directly to an low-medium power eyepiece without a camera lens. Digiscoping in this manner is intended only for very high magnifications of 100x+, usually for photographing the Moon or planets. If your scope OEM does not make a dslr adapter you will need to use a 20~25mm prime lens on the camera. You will probably get vignetting, but at least you might get some AF functionality though AF systems usuall have a tought time at such small apertures.
Click to expand...

Hello mate. I am using a Opticron adaptor and it does fit the camera to the scope very well. It just seems to be a lot more complex than didi scoping with a compact camera. Cheers for your help anyway.
 
Paul Corfield said:
Most eyepieces don't project a flat image and your photo shows this very well. Eyepieces are designed for how the eye sees through them and not for projecting onto camera sensors. The makers of these adapters don't tell you this though and they leave you to find out once you have parted with your hard earned cash.

The astro guys that photograph planets and stuff tend to use an orthoscopic eyepiece which projects a mostly flat image.

With your eyepiece the only way to remove all that blurred stuff is to increase the distance of the camera to the eyepiece. This means only the middle portion of the image will be projected onto the camera sensor. The main problem with this though is that as you increase distance from the eyepiece the magnification also increases greatly and shutter speed drops. As RJM pointed out, this method is best left for space photography.

Paul.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Paul. I have just looked at your digi scoping pictures and noticed your set up. What settings do you use on your camera, i tried today and set the camera to auto and got some half decent close up shots in the garden but still the swirl problem was there just not so bad.
 
Steve Norton said:
Hello mate. I am using a Opticron adaptor and it does fit the camera to the scope very well. It just seems to be a lot more complex than didi scoping with a compact camera. Cheers for your help anyway.
Click to expand...

You misunderstand. A proper dslr adapter for spotting scopes replaces the eyepiece in your scope and connects directly to your camera body sans lens. It basically functions as a 2x teleconverter and image errecting corrector. What you use now is a method more appropriate for astro scopes than spotting scopes with their built-in RACI prisms.
 
Last edited:
Steve - I understand my colleague Chris Galvin has been in touch directly. We will get back to you shortly with an answer.

Cheers, Pete
 
Told You !!!

RJM said:
You misunderstand. A proper dslr adapter for spotting scopes replaces the eyepiece in your scope and connects directly to your camera body sans lens. It basically functions as a 2x teleconverter and image errecting corrector. What you use now is a method more appropriate for astro scopes than spotting scopes with their built-in RACI prisms.
Click to expand...

I told you i was bad at this lark mate. I do appreciate you taking the time to try and help me though. If it were me i'd have given up by now. I spoke to someone at GRB-Gritern tonight and they mentioned that i may have the wrong adaptor for my camera scope combo. So i'll contact opticron tomorrow and see what they say.

Cheers, Steve Norton...
 
Top Notch Opticron.

Just had a chat with the guys from Opticron and they are sending a load of gear for me to try and see if i can sort the problem out. How about that for customer service.

Well done Opticron.

Cheers, Steve Norton......
 
Just to bring this thread to a conclusion.

Steve was sent lots of digiscoping adaptors to try out at his local Opticron retailer Focus Optics and after a couple of hours help with the ever helpful Tim, Steve went away happy and with the original parts that he had bought. he is now able to use his new camera and get images correctly

Chris Galvin
Opticron
 
Well Steve, it would appear for starters that an image would not be helpful. Concerning your comments. Digiscoping, or A-focal photography is defined as the taking of pictures through a scope with the eyepiece AND the camera lens in place. Prime Focus defines photos taken with both the camera lens and the scope eyepiece lenses removed. Of course only a SLR is useful for Prime Focus work. There is a third method called Eyepiece Projection in which a SLR is used with a scope with the eyepiece in place. I do not advise this method because I and other people have not had good results with it.

For digiscoping the camp is divided between SLR (mostly 4/3rds DSLR models) and Point and Shoot (P&S) users. Be warned that I have tried DSLR cameras with poor results and in the P&S camp. Your camera weighs over a pound and for that weight many people use a balance bar. A 20 to 30mm lens is considered better than the standard 50mm. Rather than spend these additional funds you might want to get a DIGISCOPE FRIENDLY P&S that weighs only 1/3rd of a pound. Consult the digiscoping section of this form, because there are ONLY a few cameras that work well.

I am not familiar with your scope. You may want to upgrade to a Kowa with a single focal length 25mm LER eyepiece. This eyepiece has a long eye-relief and is consider great for digiscoping. Such a scope is available for about $700 and is top quality. And concerning adapters. Always hand hold a camera behind a scope to see if you can get an image BEFORE you buy an adapter. This gives far more flexibility to see if you can even get an image and if so what configuration the adapter should be. Sorry for the not-so-good news suggestions, but you will make progress. Gene
 
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