• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Iceland. Winter Birding, 13-16 February 2017 (1 Viewer)

Jos Stratford

Eastern Exile
Staff member
United Kingdom
A dramatic land, possibly even more so in winter with the snowy backdrops of the mountains and sometimes wild seas of the North Atlantic. Never however had the country figured very high on my priorities to visit, I guess partly due to the fact that I have travelled extensively in the Arctic regions of North America and Europe and have thus seen all the bird and mammal species that Iceland could offer. This fine country, it seemed, was destined to remain one of those great places of the world that I would never get round to visiting. All this changed however when I was looking for a short mid-winter break ...not quite sure why Iceland popped into my head, it is not the obvious destination for the middle of February! As I pondered it however, something sparked – how magical it could be to get flocks of Harlequins sharing waters with Orca, to sift through thousands of Iceland Gulls and also to potentially see both Arctic Fox in its white coat and the Northern Lights. The spark was enough, I was hooked – even though Iceland is really thought of as a summer birding location, many of these elements would not be there at that season. It would be winter for me!

Just to add to the fun, enticed by the promise of the Northern Lights, my loyal seven year-old travelling companion opted in and we decided on camping throughout ...booked tickets about four weeks prior to departure and wondered what the elements might throw at us, possible snow drifts and sub-zero temperatures both pretty much par for the course for us resident in Lithuania, the potential high winds not.

As it turned out, Iceland was positively tropical! Departing Vilnius, it was minus 8 C, arriving in Reykjavik, it was plus 7C! And mild it remained the whole trip, temperatures not even falling to zero at night. As for the wind, despite a major storm hitting just a few days earlier with reported gusts of up to 180 km/hr, there was basically not a breathe of wind for the duration of the trip, the resultant seas calm on the south coast and like a millpond off the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Perhaps related to the weather conditions though, herring shoals were not moving into the sheltered waters of Kolgrafafjörður this winter, thus not attracting Orca ...these were effectively off the menu before I even arrived. That said, occasional pods were being encountered in deeper waters offshore and had I arranged a boat-based excursion, I could have seen them.
 
Last edited:
13 February. Reykjanes Peninsula

10.45 a.m., overcast skies, touch down at Keflavik Airport, 30 km south-west of Reykjavik. Zipped through the non-existent customs and immigration, collected a car and precisely seven minutes later was at my first birding stop, Keflavik Harbour. Tight flock of some 40-50 Iceland Gulls feeding just offshore, not quite sure what was attracting them to this exact spot, but as we watched they were soon dragging in more gulls, Glaucous Gulls amongst them, plus a steady procession of Common Eiders swimming in too. Great Northern Diver just beyond, a few Red-breasted Mergansers dotted about. Ten minutes on, in came the star – present in this bay for the best part of two years, the bird in question was a very smart drake White-winged Scoter. Probably the best bird I have ever seen within ten minutes of an international arrivals hall! Over on the harbour walls, a nice line-up of Glaucous and Iceland Gulls posed for photographs.

Ten kilometres around the coast, target two was another Nearctic attraction – a female Bufflehead that had been found three months earlier, the fifth record for Iceland. This couldn't have been easier to find ...favouring a pool near Sandgerði, the said pool had a grand total of two birds on it! Bird number one was Red-breasted Merganser, bird number two the female Bufflehead. Bit if a harsh landscape here, not a shrub higher than a few centimetres in sight ...watched the Bufflehead for a while, then scanned around for Ptarmigan. Looked back and the Bufflehead was in flight! Round the pool it circled, then off to the south, vanishing quite far into the distance. It did not return ...lucky I didn't arrive fifteen minutes later!

Would have continued along that stretch of coast at this stage, but car problems forced an early return to the airport! Darn drat, thought I, but full credit to Budget Car Rent, they swapped the car and had us on our way probably within than ten minutes ...and better still, as we had arrived at the airport, a white blob on a rock right at the airport's entrance turned out to be our first Ptarmigan of the journey ...very pleasing for the little one as that was the main bird she wanted to see on this trip!

Rather concerned that my itinerary for the day might get truncated by the short day length, we then opted for a drive along the southern coast of the Reykjanes Peninsula, stopping at assorted coastal localities as far along as Þorlákshöfn. Failed to find a Surf Scoter on route or King Eider at Þorlákshöfn, but still an excellent general mix, tops being the classic Harlequins bobbing in the surf, a fine flock of 12 being seen at Hraunsvik. Also 12 Red-throated Divers at Þorlákshöfn, quite a few Long-tailed Ducks and endless Iceland and Glaucous Gulls just about everywhere!

Would have lingered longer, but I also planned to visit the Sog River this day before driving north. Only 30 km from Þorlákshöfn, the Sog was easy to find, its key bird perhaps not quite so. In an average winter, many parts of this river are frozen, pushing the speciality Barrow's Goldeneye into relatively concentrated areas. This winter, however, all is ice-free and the birds are far more dispersed. Probably not a big effort required in reality, but with uncertainty on my part when exactly it would get dark, I thought it prudent to nip up to the northern stretches as quickly as possible and check out several spots. Notched up a Little Grebe on route, a bird that had been found a few days earlier and was remarkably only the third ever for Iceland. Just a bit further, at the northern end of Úlfljótsvatn, there the desired Barrow's Goldeneyes sat, a super male in association with two females. Classic Icelandic birds indeed!

And with that I turned north, crossing the mountains near Skálafell to rejoin the coast north of Reykjavik. Amazing lack of birds inland – saw a grand total of two birds, both Common Ravens. Back on the coast, added a Merlin just before dark somewhere near Akranes, then pushed on to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Arrived at maybe 9 pm, did a couple of hours spotlighting for Arctic Fox in the lava fields at the eastern tip of the peninsula. Saw a couple of Wood Mice, but didn't see any Arctic Fox, and it started raining from 11 pm. Camped near the Snæfellsnes lighthouse, no Northern Lights.
 
Last edited:
First birds ...
 

Attachments

  • Iceland Gull ice 2.jpg
    Iceland Gull ice 2.jpg
    84.1 KB · Views: 79
  • Glaucous Gull ice 2.jpg
    Glaucous Gull ice 2.jpg
    68 KB · Views: 62
  • Ptarmigan ice 3.jpg
    Ptarmigan ice 3.jpg
    60 KB · Views: 71
14 February. Snæfellsnes.

Winter mornings in Iceland are dark! Had I been able to see the sun, it apparently rose at only 9.30 a.m.. As it was, with heavy skies and light rain continuing, it effectively didn't get light until nearer 10 a.m.

Weather didn't actually have any negative impact and we spent the whole day checking sites along the northern side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula – birds just about everywhere, but the best sites were the harbours at Rif, Olafsvik and Grundarfjörður, a small stream entering the sea a couple of kilometres east of Olafsvik and intertidal areas near Grundarfjörður and in Kolgrafafjörður. Moderately limited number of species present, but top notch in terms of quality and sheer numbers: harbours packed with and Glaucous and Iceland Gulls (many hundreds of the latter), regular Harlequin Ducks along the entire stretch, numerous Common Eiders, lesser numbers of Long-tailed Ducks, flocks of Purple Sandpipers, a few Black Guillemots, masses and masses of Northern Fulmars, all most enjoyable.

At Grundarfjörður, amongst 120 or so Common Eiders, I also found a hybrid drake King Eider – a smart bird, this was basically a usual King Eider in appearance with full sails on back, plus near normal head and chest colouration, etc, but its back was an ash grey instead of black and it had a very much reduced bill protuberance. Over at Kolgrafafjörður, I dreamed of the Orca of past seasons, how they would pass under the road bridge in pursuit of herring in the upper bay. No such spectacle this season – the herring shoals had not entered the bay this season, I am not sure whether related to the mild conditions or possibly to mass die offs of herring in this fjord in recent years (50,000 tonnes of herring died in the bay in 2013 and 2015, thought to be related to oxygen deprivation during unusually calm waters). Whatever the reason, a Grey Seal was the only sea mammal that I noted from the bridge and even birds were fairly low in number. Out on the deeper waters of the bay however, a boat trip did find Orca on this day.

Sun from mid-afternoon, White-tailed Eagle soaring, stunning landscapes. Walked on the beach near Olafsvik, found a Orca ...no big leaps for joy, it was a long dead individual, the skull quite visible! A quick stop at a small wetland near Rif (Whooper Swans and an assortment of ducks), then onto the Snæfellsnes lighthouse area to end the day – rugged lava fields stretching for kilometres, cracks and fissures fracturing the landscape. On the black backdrop, two stunningly white Ptarmigan stuck out like sore thumbs, one islandicus Wren far more discreet – hopping about in the gullies in the lava, this is a most distinctive race, appeared somewhat larger and more upright to me, certainly darker.

Cloud rolled in from sunset, no Northern Lights again! Several hours of spotlighting also failed in their intended target – no Arctic Fox. I did spotlight however first a single Ptarmigan, then a flock of three, then two single Snow Buntings!
 
Last edited:
A few birds ...
 

Attachments

  • Glaucous Gull ice 1.jpg
    Glaucous Gull ice 1.jpg
    74.1 KB · Views: 47
  • Iceland Gull ice 7.jpg
    Iceland Gull ice 7.jpg
    81 KB · Views: 40
  • Northern Fulmar ice 1.jpg
    Northern Fulmar ice 1.jpg
    123.4 KB · Views: 66
  • Purple Sandpiper ice 2.jpg
    Purple Sandpiper ice 2.jpg
    72.5 KB · Views: 47
Last edited:
Great to have you back on the European scene Jos, even though I do appreciate that there is a limit regards new places you can investigate.

Looking forward to Friday night now, at the end of another mundane work, I'll get 4 cans and a pizza, and settle down - there's no better way relax than to indulge in one of your wonderful reports!!

So get busy typing:t:
 
Hi Jos,
It was great to read your story from Iceland. I'am going there Friday-Sunday with family mainly to look for northern lights. But hope to be able to squeeze in a little birding now and then. As it is my first time in Iceland I would love to see the Harleqin Duck and Barrow's Goldeneyes. Have you seen any of them somewhere near Reykjavik?
Br
Lars
 
Hi Jos,
It was great to read your story from Iceland. I'am going there Friday-Sunday with family mainly to look for northern lights. But hope to be able to squeeze in a little birding now and then. As it is my first time in Iceland I would love to see the Harleqin Duck and Barrow's Goldeneyes. Have you seen any of them somewhere near Reykjavik?
Br
Lars

They are more common on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, but in the area you are interested in, the closest Harlequins that I saw to Reykjavik were at these two locations:

63.848087, -22.363281 (about 25 km form Keflavik airport)
63.819220, -22.614535 (about 30 km form Keflavik airport)

They do occur around Hafnir (approx 63.932933, -22.693834) however, only 15 km from the airport - but I did not stop here, so can't say if any there at present.


For Barrow's Goldeneye, you basically need to go to the Sog River, 65 km or so east of Reykjavik (or near 100 km from the airport).
 
15 February. Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

With both the Northern Lights and Arctic Fox still eluding us, we opted for another day on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Pre-dawn spotlighting revealed nothing, then it was very much a re-run of the day before, but with better weather. Started off at the Snæfellsnes lighthouse again, which proved much birdier than the evening before – whilst Fulmars and Gannets had been present in the evening, I had seen only a single Razorbill and no Guillemots whatsoever. Now however, congregating in rafts just off the cliffs, there were Guillemots galore! Rough counts put the numbers at an absolute minimum of 900, scans through also picking several Razorbills and a dotting of Black Guillemots. Predictably perhaps, it was still too early for Brunnich's Guillemot, not a single could I find. Also good numbers of Kittiwakes here, and Red-throated Divers.

Decided to try and find Kumlien's Gulls on this day, the obvious spot being where I had seen masses of gulls gathering at small stream entering the sea just east of Olafsvik. Could park the car here at the top of a low cliff and watch the mass of gulls feeding on the sea at the outflow, plus others bathing in the stream itself and even more roosting on the cliff top either side. A superb site, I would estimate there were easily over 1000 Iceland Gulls at this single spot, plus hundreds of Glaucous Gulls and similar numbers of Great Black-backed Gulls too. Quite a spectacle to watch this lot, the Iceland Gulls in particular, most of which were on the stream and outflow, rather than cliff top. Concentrating on closer birds, it did not take long before I found what I was seeking – first several 'Nelson Gulls', hybrids between Glaucous Gulls and Herring Gulls, then the bird I wanted, at least two Kumlien's Gulls. Also saw here my only Common Gull of the trip.

Hybrid King Eider still in Grundarfjörður harbour, 70 or so Oystercatchers split between Grundarfjörður and Kolgrafafjörður, seven Common Redshanks also at Kolgrafafjörður, one Common Snipe at Riff, these latter two species somewhat unseasonal I believe. Plenty of other birds, but species much as day before.

Remained fairly sunny till evening, then cloud began to creep in again. Drat, hopes of the Northern Lights seemed to be fading! A few hours spotlighting failed yet again to produce Arctic Fox, one Snow Bunting the only reward this night. At close to midnight, with a light northerly breeze now stacking clouds, I thought I would take a bit of a gamble and see if the weather might be better on the other side of the mountains, i.e. the southern side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Worked a treat, a perfect starry night and there, in a broad arc across the northern sky, floating greens gently rising and falling, glowing shapes intensifying then fading, streaks pushing landward … the Northern Lights! Not perhaps the most classic of displays, the greens not deep, but quite fixating it was, we sat there in the quiet of the most gazing.

Drove halfway back to Reykjavik, stopped somewhere near the coast.
 
A narrow gorge, remains of Fulmars littering the floor ...munching site for Gyr Falcons I presume.

Spot the younger traveller at the bottom.
 

Attachments

  • Gorge ice 1.jpg
    Gorge ice 1.jpg
    52.4 KB · Views: 115
Good stuff Jos, wonder if you will meet the killer? A Gyr?

Not easy at all, I know. And you're not exactly chasing after them.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 7 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top