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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Independent North Peru in a hire car (1 Viewer)

15th November: Affluente & Huembo

Sorry for lack of updates - been really busy at work but I'll try to catch up now.

We left Casa de Seizo at around 5.30 and arrived at Llanteria shortly after 7. The journey there was uneventful apart from the only Orange-backed Troupial of the trip. As soon as I got out the car, the first bird I spotted was a Canada Warbler. Although they turned out to be pretty common here, it was a great start to the day. Also present in the car park amongst a small flock including Peruvian Tyrannulet, Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager and Bronze-green Euphonia.

We then paid the pricey entrance fees (30 soles each) to walk the trail and were accompanied by a young local guide. It was difficult to see much in the dense forest but we did find a Cock-of-the-rock and a Northern White-crowned Tapaculo came in nicely to tape. After some searching, we did find a decent if elusive and fast-moving flock. This held Versicolored Barbet, Tschudi's Woodcreeper, Ornate Antwren and Streaked Xenops. A calling Black-mandibled Toucan refused to show itself.

We then returned to the feeders to have our breakfast. These were quiet but a male Ecuadorian Piedtail was in regular attendance. Next, we tried to walk down the road towards Affluente village. This started off really quiet but on our return, we encountered a nesting pair of Golden Tanagers. While enjoying them, we found a cracking flock. This had Speckle-chested Piculet, Striped Woodhaunter, Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner, Buff-fronted Foliage-Gleaner, Montane Foliage-Gleaner, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, female Golden-collared Honeycreeper, Black-and-white Becard and a variety of common tanagers.

Walking back up the hill past the garage, we found it to be very birdy despite it already being late morning. Highlights here included Yellow-margined Flycatcher, Grey-mantled Wren, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, Lined Antshrike, Plain Antvireo, Yellow-breasted Antwren, Rufous-tailed Antwren, Summer Tanager, Green-and-gold Tanager and Orange-eared Tanager. A calling Scale-crested Pygmy-tyrant unfortunately remained hidden. There was also no sign of the hoped for Equatorial Greytail or Yellow-throated Tanager.

We had planned to leave by 12 to give us time at the top of Abra Patricia but did not tear ourselves away until 1.30 and we really needed much longer. When we got to the top of Abra Patricia, the weather was awful so we carried on straight to Huembo arriving after 3. Thankfully the weather had improved a bit so we paid another 30 soles entrance fee before heading straight to the feeders. Immediately on our arrival, we saw a male Marvellous Spatuletail - one of the best hummers and one of the main targets of the trip! It did not stay long but came back regularly over the next hour or so. Loads of other hummers were present including Andean Emerald, Little Woodstar, Bronzy Inca, Long-tailed Sylph and White-bellied Woodstar.

After the rain had stopped, we set off down the hill on a walk along the trails. Here we found Blackish Tapaculo, Sickle-winged Guan, Highland Elaenia, Alder Flycatcher, White-sided Flowerpiercer, Hepatic Tanager, Silver-backed Tanager and flyover flocks of Mitred Parakeet. At about 5.30, the rain started again so we headed back to Pomacochas and checked in to the very good value Hospedaje Brisas (30 soles per single room). What a day it had been!
 
16th November: San Lorenzo and Pomacochas Lake

We set off before dark and drove up towards San Lorenzo village. The road had recently been relaid so was in relatively good shape and we were able to drive right up to the football pitch.

We headed up the trail trying to get as high up as quickly as possible to give us as good a chance as possible of our main target for the day - the stunning Pale-billed Antpitta. However, our trip up the hill was interrupted by a calling Trilling Tapaculo and, with the aid of the tape, we enjoyed good views. Other birds seen on the way up to the first patch of bamboo we encountered included Peruvian Wren, Rufous Spinetail, Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager, Tyrian Metaltail, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Rufous-chested Tanager, Violet-throated Starfrontlet and a brief Mountain Velvetbreast that only I saw.

We tried the tape of the Pale-billed Antpitta at this first patch of bamboo but did not get any response. We did hear both Schulenberg's Wren and Chestnut-crowned Antpitta but they did not come in. Both these species were to taunt us the rest of the day as we saw neither despite hearing them regularly.

We next tried the grid reference in Matheve but the bamboo has been badly cut down and the only thing we saw was a Grey-browed Brush-finch that oddly came straight in to the Antpitta tape.

Further up the mountain, we finally found a decent patch of bamboo and a route inside it. It took a while to elicit a response but eventually we heard a Pale-billed Antpitta. A little more coaxing eventually lured it in to view and we had reasonable extended looks at this special bird.

After this success, the pressure was off and we could see what else we could find. We first headed a little further up the mountain before encountering a decent flock that contained Moustached Flowerpiercer, Unstreaked Tit-tyrant, Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrant and Sierran Elaenia. We heard Golden-plumed Parakeet fly overhead but low cloud prevented us seeing them.

Heading back down the mountain, we encountered several further flocks. These had a variety of decent species including Russet-mantled Softail, Citrine Warbler, Blue-capped Tanager, Blue-backed Conebill, Capped Conebill, Black-capped Hemispingus, Drab Hemispingus, Superciliaried Hemispingus, Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Mountain Wren and Barred Becard. The most surprising bird though was a male Paramo Seedeater. We also successfully taped out Ash-colored Tapaculo. Henry also saw a Large-footed Tapaculo after I had stupidly walked away because I thought it was not coming in.

We got back to the car at about 2, over eight hours after we started walking. We were tired but it had been worth it!

We headed back for a rest before heading down towards the lake seeing Grassland Yellow Finch on route. There were few birds around by the shore apart from a couple of Sedge Wren. There was limited viewing so we decided to splurge all of 3 soles to take a tourist boat with some noisy Peruvian tourists. This was very pleasant but we did not see anything of any consequence.

On the advice of the boatman, we tried an area by the lake beyond the town. There was a path close to the water's edge so we gave it a go. We failed in our quest to find any snipe or rails but were absolutely thrilled to encounter a Subtropical Doradito in reeds near to the water. On an hours walk along the lake, we found numerous Yellow-bellied Seedeater, abundant Peruvian Meadowlark, a shock pair of Lafresnaye's Piculet (what were they doing so high in Eucalyptus??) and a female Marvellous Spatuletail.
 
17th November: Kuelap and Leymebamba

Today was due to be the only non-birding day of our time in the north as we were visiting the spectacular hill fortress of Kuelap as well as travelling the fair distance between Pomacochas and Leymebamba.

We had a little bit of lie in and left at around 6.30. The journey along the mighty Utcubamba produced numerous Fasciated Tiger Herons and 2 female Torrent Ducks. We also saw 2 thrushes at a breakfast stop by the river but they remained too far away to clinch the identity and it was not safe to walk back along the road.

We arrived at Kuelap shortly after 9 and took the cable car up the hill (20 soles each) before paying our entrance fee to the site (another 20 soles each). We spent the next three or so hours exploring the remarkable Chachapoyan ruins and the spectacular views. Although birding was not the primary purpose, it was surprisingly good. Hummingbirds were a particular feature with Purple-throated Sunangel, Shining Sunbeam, Green-tailed Trainbearer, White-bellied Hummingbird and a brief Sword-billed Hummingbird that only I saw. Other birds we saw included 3 Black-throated Buzzard-Eagles, White-tipped Swift, Baron's Spinetail, Cinereous Conebill, Black-throated Flowerpiercer & Plain-colored Seedeater. Henry also saw a Chestnut-crowned Antpitta but this species continued to taunt me. I have seen it before in Ecuador so not the end of the world.

After leaving Kuelap, our next port of call was El Chillo lodge along the river valley in the hope of finding roosting Koepcke's Screech Owl. However, we found the lodge to be locked when we got there and were unable to find much in the area apart from a Buff-breasted Tanager. We made a number of stops along the beautiful valley but it was very hot and we were unable to find much of consequence.

We arrived in the charming town of Leymebamba that afternoon. It took us a while to find reasonable and reasonably priced accomodation but we eventually found the passable Hostel Petaca (40 soles for twin!) on the main square.

We then headed to the Kenticafe where we had good views of the various highland hummingbirds including a lovely Purple-throated Sunangel while sipping a hot chocolate.

We then headed on a scouting mission to Atuen to see how the road was for the next day (pretty good was the answer). I saw a brief Sharp-shinned Hawk chase some swallows while Henry was in the car. Further along the valley, we had decent views of a Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan in the fading light and heard Golden-headed Quetzal. After this nice end to the day, we headed back to Leymebamba for the night.
 
18th November: Abra Barro Negro & Atuen

Unfortunately, we both woke up with some food poisoning after a dodgy meal the night before with Henry certainly feeling worse than I did. Nevertheless, we set off shortly after dawn for the famed Abra Barro Negro. We decided to skip the lower forest and headed up fairly high up the pass. At our first stop, we found Andean Lapwing, Many-striped Canastero, Yellow-breasted Brushfinch and Brown-bellied Swallow.

Our next stop was by an abandoned house at KM 399. Here we found Great Sapphirewing, White-chinned Thistletail, Rainbow Starfrontlet, White-throated Tyrannulet, Plumbeous Sierra Finch & Sapphire-vented Puffleg. We spent quite a bit of time trying to tape out a Rufous Antpitta (Leymebamba form) and I had reasonable views although unfortunately Henry was moving the tape at the time so did not see it.

We carried on further up the pass, stopping when we saw birds or reasonable forest patches. This proved a good tactic as we encountered Mountain Caracara, Variable Hawk & Aplomado Falcon. At a decent forest patch on the other side of the pass, we finally found our main target in the stunning form of a Coppery Metaltail. There was also a large flock here containing Brown-backed Chat-tyrant, Blue-backed Conebill, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Moustached Flowerpiercer, Pearled Treerunner and a showy pair of Red-crested Cotinga. Barred Fruiteater and Neblina Tapaculo were calling but they were unresponsive so we could not see them.

The forest was much quieter on the way back to Leymebamba so the only new bird was Andean Flicker on the drive back. After a walk round town, we had a decent nap in the hostel before heading to Atuen mid afternoon.

This was surprisingly productive as despite not encountering any sort of decent tanager flocks, we found quite a number of species. The definite highlight was some superb Andean Condors flying overhead - always such a treat. Other birds we found included Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush, a brief Blackpoll Warbler, Rusty Flowerpiercer, Brown-capped Vireo, Maroon-belted Chat-tyrant, female Golden-headed Quetzal, male Masked Trogon, White-sided Flowerpiercer and Beryl-spangled Tanager. A fruiting tree contained a number of good large birds including Hooded Mountain Tanager, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, White-collared Jay, Strong-billed Woodcreeper and Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan. It was also good to have great views of loads of Speckle-faced Parrots fly overhead.

We had plan to stay to look for nightbirds so headed back for an early night.
 
19th November: Balsas and Celendin

We set off well before first light so we tried a bit of tape of owls along the road near the Kenticafe but this elicited no response. Further up the road, we stopped by a cliff where there had been a number of ebird records of Swallow-tailed Nightjar. Although we heard one briefly, we could not see it. This summed up a very disappointing trip for night birds.

However, once it got light, we headed to the first good patch of forest along the Abra Barro Negro road. Here we heard Rusty-breasted Antpitta and had a go at taping it. It came in close but I did not get any sort of tickable views before it went silent. I think Henry saw slightly more than I did but certainly did not have good views. There were loads of other birds in this forest patch including displaying Hooded Mountain Tanager, a showy family group of Russet-mantled Softails and Blue-backed Conebill but we were unable to find anything we had not already seen. There was no sight or sound of the hoped for Grass-Green Tanager (a real bogey bird of mine) and yet again we heard but did not see Chestnut-crowned Antpitta. Further up the pass, we tried to find Neblina Tapaculo in the place we heard it the day before but drew a blank. It had been a frustrating start to the day!

I had been worried about the drive down to Balsas but Henry's driving was pretty good and he got us through the crazy hairpins safely. We even saw Buff-bridled Inca-Finch from the road - they were to be pretty common all day. Arriving in Balsas, we tried various riverside roads and quickly found one of our main targets in the form of 3 Peruvian Pigeons.

At the other side of the river, we looked for Yellow-faced Parrotlet but despite a 3 hour search, we could not find any. My contribution to the search was somewhat limited as I was feeling quite unwell from the heat but I did find us Black-necked Woodpecker. There were also several Bare-faced Ground Doves, Drab Seedeaters and a few other common dry country birds.

We then headed up towards Hacienda Limon and took the unpaved road towards Lucma. This was in good condition so we were able to drive all the way to the football pitch. It had cooled down and I was feeling better so we took a track out the side of the football pitch towards the hill side. This was surprisingly birdy for the time of day and we found our main target of Grey-winged Inca-Finch without too much trouble. There were plenty of other birds easily lured in to view with the owl tape including White-winged Black-Tyrant, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant, Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch, Band-tailed Seedeater, Golden-billed Saltator, Pacific Elaenia, Tropical Pewee, Silver-backed Tanager, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Masked Yellowthroat, Andean Emerald & Maranon Gnatcatcher. Best of all though were 2 Maranon Thrush as by this point we were worrying that we had missed this species.

We had also hoped to find the endemic Chestnut-backed Thornbird but, although there were a few nests, we could not find any. We tried a few more spots towards Lucma village but by 4pm, we had to give up as we were unsure how long it would take to get up to Celendin and wanted to do it before dark.

In the end, it only took just over an hour. I was somewhat relieved that Henry was driving rather than me as there were several times we precariously passed vehicles going the other way along the cliff edge. Celendin was a much nicer town than expected. After checking in to the excellent value Hostal Villa Madrid (25 soles for single), I had a little walk and bought some fruit in the food market.
 
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20th November: Cruz Conga and Rio Chonta

Despite feeling fine yesterday evening, I woke up feeling rotten with a headache and streaming cold. We therefore had a more leisurely start with breakfast in town before setting off to Cruz Conga at about 7.30. As other trip reports have stated, the habitat at Cruz Conga has been largely destroyed so we simply stopped wherever we could find some bushes or promising looking fields along the side of the road.

The birding however was surprisingly good as in the bushes we found Black-crested Tit-Tyrant, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Black-crested Warbler, Peruvian Sierra Finch, Rufous-chested Tanager, Golden-billed Saltator and Band-tailed Seedeater. Rufous Antpitta (of the Cajamarca form) came in to tape but unsurprisingly did not reveal itself and there was no sign of the hoped for Tit-like Dacnis. Andean Flicker on the other hand was abundant and we saw a huge total of 22 in the area. Roadside fields were equally productive as we added Puna Ibis, Cream-winged Cinclodes, White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant, Rufous-webbed Bush-Tyrant and Andean Gull to our massive trip list.

Our next stop was a speculative one at some unpromising Eucalyptus trees by the roadside just before La Encanada as Henry had noticed a couple of ebird records of Rufous-eared Brushfinch. To our amazement, we had found a pair of these very rare birds within 5 minutes. I have not seen a single tour report that has seen this species on this route!

We next tried the ebird site of La Encanada but this was completely dead so we drove to Rio Chonta. We opted to take the long way round via Banos so as to avoid 25 kms on unpaved road. This took a while because of speed bumps but we eventually arrived at a bridge where the ebird site of Rio Chonta was marked. There were loads of birds in this area including White-winged Cinclodes, Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, Plain-tailed Warbling-Finch, Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, Black-crested Warbler, Peruvian Sierra Finch, Torrent Tyrannulet, Black-throated Flowerpiercer and the local form of Yellow-breasted Brushfinch.

The habitat however was not really suitable for our main target of Grey-bellied Comet as there were not really any flowering plants. We therefore walked around 2km along the road towards the grid reference in Matheve's report. I found this walk quite difficult as I was still not feeling well at all. It was very birdy but we did not see anything new. Just as we were at the point of giving up, I noticed a small bridge, which must have been the one referred to in trip reports, and decided to wait there.

Just as Henry called Andean Swift, I noticed a Grey-bellied Comet flying around some flowers. I excitedly yelled and Henry came running down the steep slope. After a nerve wracking minute or so, the Comet reappeared and we had decent views. In all the excitement, I never did see the Andean Swift.

On our walk back to the car, we jammed in on a male Black Metaltail meaning we had both key targets in the bag. Although it was only around 4.30, I was still feeling it so we headed in to Cajamarca. We eventually found a reasonable hotel called Hotel Kristal (50 soles per single) on the edge of town and checked in before having a nap. That evening, we had an excellent meal with absurdly sized portions at a nearby chicken restaurant (think it was called California Chicken) recommended by the hotel.
 
21st November: San Marcos & Laguna San Nicolas

Thankfully, I was feeling a lot better this morning so we headed off towards San Marcos shortly after 6. The road was in good condition but it was full of speed bumps so it took about 75 minutes to get there.

We walked up the canyon as described by Spencer but despite searching more than 3 hours we could not find any Great Spinetail. In hindsight, I think we should have spent more time along the road rather than the trail. There were plenty of other birds present including Black-tailed Trainbearer, Golden-rumped Euphonia, Black-necked Woodpecker, Masked Yellowthroat, White-winged Black-Tyrant & Buff-bridled Inca-Finch.

On the way back to Cajamarca, we stopped at Laguna San Nicolas. The road down was in reasonable condition but the 10km each way on unpaved road was somewhat tedious. The lake was full of Andean Coots but we also managed to pick out Andean Ruddy Duck and Andean Gull. Some reeds near a jetty held several Wren-like Rushbird. Further round the lake, we found Puna Ibis, Lesser Yellowlegs and our main target in the form of a Plumbeous Rail.

We then tried the hillside behind the lake after a recent report of Great Spinetail on ebird but had predictable results. We did however see a White-browed Chat-Tyrant.

The plan for the afternoon was to head to Cumbe Mayo in the hope of furnarids, ground tyrants and Stripe-headed Antpitta. However, not wishing to face the drive through central Cajamarca or the unpaved road, we decided we were better off taking the afternoon off. After an extended nap at the hotel, we headed in to central Cajamarca and spent some time exploring the beautiful city centre. After another good meal, we headed back to the hotel for an early night.
 
22nd November: Abra Gavilan, Bosque Rafan & Eten

After an early night, we set off for Abra Gavilan, arriving shortly before 6. We tried a number of gullies for our main target of Unicolored Tapaculo but initially only heard it distantly before having superb views in the last gully. Also present in the area were 2 Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles and the only Glossy-Black Thrushes of the trip. There was however no sign of the hoped for Rufous-backed Inca-Finch.

We were a bit apprehensive about the drive to Chiclayo from here as most tours do not attempt it and we could find little information online. However, the road is for the most part in good shape and despite a blockage of almost an hour, we arrived at Bosque Rafan at around 1pm, several hours earlier than anticipated.

As soon as we got out the car and finished lunch, I spotted some Cinereous Finches, which were greatly appreciated by Henry after he missed the one at Bosque Pomac. We set off across the dunes before we heard a Peruvian Plantcutter near the car and turned round to look for it. We found a total of 5 of this much-desired endemic. In addition, we got lucky with 4 Peruvian Sheartails (another miss from earlier in the trip). It was also good to see many species we had not seen since Pomac like Grey-and-White Tyrannulet, Superciliated Wren & Rufous Flycatcher.

Having seen our two targets at Rafan, we then headed to the village of Puerto Eten. This is a strange place, where a lot of investment in the seafront had clearly failed to attract the anticipated tourism. Offshore, we immediately added both Peruvian Pelican and Peruvian Booby although the light made it difficult to pick anything else out.

We then walked along the beach enjoying abundant Sanderling (a nice reminder of home), as well as Grey-hooded Gull, Grey Gull, Kelp Gull, Elegant Tern, Sandwich Tern, Royal Tern, Grey Plover, American Oystercatcher & a solitary Semipalmated Sandpiper. We walked back through the dunes in the hope of Least Seedsnipe but we had to settle for Yellowish Pipit and Killdeer.

Our final port of call for the day was a track before the bridge over the river near Eten village. The agricultural fields here were very birdy with numerous Scrub Blackbirds, Shiny Cowbirds and Peruvian Meadowlark coming to roost. Better birds, however, were a single Chestnut-throated Seedeater, a shock singing Grayish Saltator, 30+ Variable Seedeater and 200+ Parrot-billed Seedeater. Along the river, we found 2 Ringed Kingfisher, 2 Wren-liked Rushbird, 10 Least Sandpiper and 4 Collared Plover. The stunning highlight of the evening though were 2 Chestnut-collared Swallows and an amazing Tumbes Swallow in a vast hirundine flock. There are few records of either of these species here and we thought we had missed them earlier in the trip so these were both thrilling finds.

We then headed in to Chiclayo for the night, seeing several Lesser Nighthawks from the car. We stayed at the Hostel Villa Santa again but this time had to fork out 65 soles each for single rooms as they had no twins available.
 
23rd November: Eten area & flight to Lima

Our plan for our last day in the north had been to explore the Eten area but we had spent much more time there the day before than we had anticipated. Nevertheless, we set off early from Hostel Villa Santa towards the Monsefu area in the hope of Tawny-throated Dotterel or Peruvian Thick-knee. These we failed to find but along the track, we did see Burrowing Owl, Wren-like Rushbird and Crested Caracara. The best bird however was a pair of showy Many-colored Rush-Tyrants in a small reedbed.

Viewing of the river mouth was difficult and distant from this track though we could pick out Black-crowned Night-Heron, Black-necked Stilt, Cinnamon Teal and White-cheeked Pintail. Greater Yellowlegs and Semipalmated Plover both flew low overhead.

We then tried the track to a beach south of Santa Rosa, seeing several Grassland Yellow-Finches. We decided to attempt the 2km walk towards the river mouth through the dunes. This proved a good decision as, despite the fog, we stumbled on a perched Osprey and a superb Least Seedsnipe that showed to a few feet. At the river mouth, we enjoyed better views of the birds we could see in the distance but failed to find anything new. There was no sign of any Peruvian Terns.

It was only 11am and we had finished what we had planned for the day so we took it easy and seawatched from various points. This was fairly quiet but we did pick out Arctic Skua, Pomarine Skua, Brown Pelican and a flypast Hudsonian Whimbrel. I also picked out a Laughing Gull on Eten beach amongst the numerous Franklin's Gulls.

Our flight was not until 6pm so the afternoon was quite boring but we handed back the car (think we had to pay a 20 soles cleaning fee because of the mud) and took our flights to Lima without too much trouble. We took an official taxi to Marqay Friends Hostel (105 soles for twin per night including breakfast) in Lima and arranged for the same taxi driver to take us to Callao port in the morning for our pelagic.
 
24th November: Pelagic

I had an awful night's sleep as I think I managed to contract food poisoning from a frozen mango juice in Eten the night before but decided I was just about well enough to go on the pelagic. We had pre-booked a 9 hour pelagic with Kolibri Expeditions at the extortionate price of $250 per person but we decided it would be worth it.

The journey to Callao marina was quicker than we expected and we arrived shortly after 5.15. Once there was a little bit of light, we started to notice new species like Belcher's Gull and the much-wanted Inca Tern.

The boat was larger than we expected with 16 passengers in total including Gunnar Engblom from Kolibri and a Birdquest tour group. We set off shortly after 6 and soon noticed some Surfbirds feeding on the rocks by the marina exit. There were vast numbers of birds in the area relatively close to the shore including hundreds of Inca Terns, Red-legged Cormorants, Guanay Cormorants, Franklin's Gulls, Peruvian Boobies and Peruvian Pelicans.

Passing close to some islands, we saw Humboldt's Penguins and South American Sea Lions. A little beyond that, we encountered a flock of Common Dolphins and started to find seabirds like Peruvian Diving-Petrel, Elliot's Storm-Petrel, Sooty Shearwater, Grey Phalarope, White-chinned Petrel, Pomarine Skua and Arctic Skua.

3 hours after we set off, we arrived at an area on the shelf where we started chumming. It did not take long for birds to come in to the chum. Amongst the numerous Elliot's Storm-Petrels, we were able to pick out Wilson's Storm-Petrel, Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrel and a very brief Ringed Storm-Petrel. We had good fun trying to decipher a few all dark Storm-Petrels. The majority were Black Storm-Petrel but Henry's great photos clearly show a Markham's as well. Other birds that came in to the chum include a brief Sabine's Gull and a couple of Pink-footed Shearwaters as well as many species we had seen on the way out. Apparently the sea was too warm for albatrosses or other rarer species.

The journey back took longer due to the waves and we did not see anything new. However, we went much closer to the islands off Lima, enjoying great views of Humboldt Penguins and Inca Terns. We also were able to find a handful of Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes and a pair of Blue-footed Boobies. We arrived back at shore after what had been a great experience. Although I avoided any seasickness, I had not been able to enjoy it as much as I would have done as I was struggling with a stomach and headache.

We found a taxi back to Miraflores and I spent the rest of the evening in bed.
 
25th-27th November: Lima and journey home

Unfortunately, I did not get better and I spent the next two days ill in bed with severe poisoning before our flight home on the evening of 26th. I had hoped to explore Lima as it is supposed to be a great city and I was looking forward to some sightseeing after all the birding but I just was not well enough. I tried a couple of times to go for a walk but had to turn back, although I did make it out for a great meal on 25th.

Henry explorerd Pantanos de Villa on the morning of the 26th, finding Peruvian Thick-knee, Great Grebe, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron and Least Bittern amongst others, but I could not join him.

The flight was predictably unpleasant (being an Iberia flight did not help) but I was feeling a bit better when we got to Madrid so I was able to run through the airport so we could make our tight connection. I arrived home on the evening of the 27th and was back in work on the 29th as planned. By the weekend, I had fully recovered and did not have any effects from the food poisoning.
 
Conclusion

Despite a disappointing end with the food poisoning, it had been an incredible trip so I could not complain. 624 species and 334 lifers was an incredible total, way beyond my expectations. It just shows what you can do without a guide or tour with a bit of planning and a basic knowledge of the local language.

If anyone is thinking of a similar trip, do get in touch with me for more specific information and for any questions you might have.

Well done for reading as I appreciate it has been a long report! I will try to upload some of my photos but in the meantime here is a link to Henry's Flickr site: https://www.flickr.com/photos/8327273@N08/sets/72157667176407749
 
Full trip list

1. Cinereous Tinamou
2. Little Tinamou
3. Comb Duck
4. Torrent Duck
5. Cinnamon Teal
6. White-cheeked Pintail
7. Masked Duck
8. Andean Duck
9. Speckled Chachalaca
10. White-winged Guan
11. Sickle-winged Guan
12. Pied-billed Grebe
13. Humboldt Penguin
14. White-chinned Petrel
15. Pink-footed Shearwater
16. Sooty Shearwater
17. Peruvian Diving-Petrel
18. Wilson's Storm-Petrel
19. Elliot's Storm-Petrel
20. Ringed Storm-Petrel
21. Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrel
22. Black Storm-Petrel
23. Markham’s Storm-Petrel
24. Blue-footed Booby
25. Peruvian Booby
26. Red-legged Cormorant
27. Neotropic Cormorant
28. Guanay Cormorant
29. Brown Pelican
30. Peruvian Pelican
31. Fasciated Tiger-Heron
32. Cocoi Heron
33. Great Egret
34. Snowy Egret
35. Little Blue Heron
36. Cattle Egret
37. Striated Heron
38. Black-crowned Night-Heron
39. Puna Ibis
40. Black Vulture
41. Turkey Vulture
42. Andean Condor
43. Osprey
44. Pearl Kite
45. Hook-billed Kite
46. Grey-headed Kite
47. Swallow-tailed Kite
48. Plumbeous Kite
49. Sharp-shinned Hawk
50. Savanna Hawk
51. Great Black Hawk
52. Roadside Hawk
53. Harris's Hawk
54. Variable Hawk
55. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle
56. White Hawk
57. Broad-winged Hawk
58. Short-tailed Hawk
59. Zone-tailed Hawk
60. Grey-necked Wood-Rail
61. Russet-crowned Crake
62. Plumbeous Rail
63. Purple Gallinule
64. Common Gallinule
65. Andean Coot
66. Limpkin
67. Black-necked Stilt
68. American Oystercatcher
69. Grey Plover
70. American Golden Plover
71. Andean Lapwing
72. Collared Plover
73. Semipalmated Plover
74. Killdeer
75. Least Seedsnipe
76. Wattled Jacana
77. Hudsonian Whimbrel
78. Ruddy Turnstone
79. Surfbird
80. Sanderling
81. Least Sandpiper
82. Semipalmated Sandpiper
83. Grey Phalarope
84. Spotted Sandpiper
85. Greater Yellowlegs
86. Lesser Yellowlegs
87. Pomarine Skua
88. Arctic Skua
89. Sabine's Gull
90. Andean Gull
91. Grey-hooded Gull
92. Grey Gull
93. Laughing Gull
94. Franklin's Gull
95. Belcher's Gull
96. Kelp Gull
97. Inca Tern
98. Royal Tern
99. Sandwich Tern
100. Elegant Tern
101. Black Skimmer
102. Feral Pigeon
103. Band-tailed Pigeon
104. Peruvian Pigeon
105. Plumbeous Pigeon
106. Ruddy Pigeon
107. Ruddy Ground-Dove
108. Ecuadorian Ground-Dove
109. Croaking Ground-Dove
110. Blue Ground-Dove
111. Bare-faced Ground-Dove
112. White-tipped Dove
113. Grey-fronted Dove
114. West Peruvian Dove
115. Eared Dove
116. Greater Ani
117. Smooth-billed Ani
118. Groove-billed Ani
119. Striped Cuckoo
120. Squirrel Cuckoo
121. Cinnamon Screech-Owl
122. Pacific Pygmy-Owl
123. Long-whiskered Owlet
124. Burrowing Owl
125. Lesser Nighthawk
126. Tschudi's Nightjar
127. Long-tailed Potoo
128. Oilbird
129. Chestnut-collared Swift
130. White-collared Swift
131. Short-tailed Swift
132. Grey-rumped Swift
133. White-tipped Swift
134. Fork-tailed Palm-Swift
135. White-necked Jacobin
136. Green Hermit
137. Tawny-bellied Hermit
138. Koepcke's Hermit
139. Great-billed Hermit
140. Black-throated Hermit
141. Grey-chinned Hermit
142. Reddish Hermit
143. Planalto Hermit
144. Blue-fronted Lancebill
145. Brown Violetear
146. Green Violetear
147. Sparkling Violetear
148. Black-throated Mango
149. Amethyst-throated Sunangel
150. Purple-throated Sunangel
151. Royal Sunangel
152. Wire-crested Thorntail
153. Rufous-crested Coquette
154. Ecuadorian Piedtail
155. Speckled Hummingbird
156. Long-tailed Sylph
157. Grey-bellied Comet
158. Black-tailed Trainbearer
159. Green-tailed Trainbearer
160. Tyrian Metaltail
161. Coppery Metaltail
162. Black Metaltail
163. Greenish Puffleg
164. Sapphire-vented Puffleg
165. Marvelous Spatuletail
166. Shining Sunbeam
167. Bronzy Inca
168. Collared Inca
169. Violet-throated Starfrontlet
170. Rainbow Starfrontlet
171. Mountain Velvetbreast
172. Sword-billed Hummingbird
173. Great Sapphirewing
174. Chestnut-breasted Coronet
175. Booted Racket-tail
176. Black-throated Brilliant
177. Gould's Jewelfront
178. Fawn-breasted Brilliant
179. Violet-fronted Brilliant
180. Long-billed Starthroat
181. Purple-collared Woodstar
182. Peruvian Sheartail
183. White-bellied Woodstar
184. Little Woodstar
185. Blue-tailed Emerald
186. Violet-headed Hummingbird
187. Grey-breasted Sabrewing
188. Fork-tailed Woodnymph
189. Many-spotted Hummingbird
190. Tumbes Hummingbird
191. Spot-throated Hummingbird
192. White-bellied Hummingbird
193. Amazilia Hummingbird
194. Andean Emerald
195. Sapphire-spangled Emerald
196. Golden-tailed Sapphire
197. Golden-headed Quetzal
198. Crested Quetzal
199. Blue-crowned Trogon
200. Masked Trogon
201. Whooping Motmot
202. Ringed Kingfisher
203. Amazon Kingfisher
204. Collared Puffbird
205. Black-fronted Nunbird
206. White-fronted Nunbird
207. Swallow-winged Puffbird
208. Bluish-fronted Jacamar
209. Gilded Barbet
210. Versicolored Barbet
211. Black-throated Toucanet
212. Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan
213. Lettered Aracari
214. Chestnut-eared Aracari
215. Ivory-billed Aracari
216. Golden-collared Toucanet
217. Lafresnaye's Piculet
218. Ecuadorian Piculet
219. Speckle-chested Piculet
220. Yellow-tufted Woodpecker
221. Little Woodpecker
222. Scarlet-backed Woodpecker
223. Red-stained Woodpecker
224. White-throated Woodpecker
225. Golden-olive Woodpecker
226. Crimson-mantled Woodpecker
227. Black-necked Woodpecker
228. Andean Flicker
229. Lineated Woodpecker
230. Crimson-crested Woodpecker
231. Black Caracara
232. Mountain Caracara
233. Crested Caracara
234. Laughing Falcon
235. American Kestrel
236. Aplomado Falcon
237. Peregrine Falcon
238. Cobalt-winged Parakeet
239. White-capped Parrot
240. Blue-headed Parrot
241. Scaly-naped Parrot
242. Blue-winged Parrotlet
243. Pacific Parrotlet
244. Maroon-tailed Parakeet
245. Scarlet-fronted Parakeet
246. Mitred Parakeet
247. Red-masked Parakeet
248. White-eyed Parakeet
249. Barred Antshrike
250. Chapman's Antshrike
251. Lined Antshrike
252. Collared Antshrike
253. Plain-winged Antshrike
254. Northern Slaty-Antshrike
255. Variable Antshrike
256. Uniform Antshrike
257. Plain Antvireo
258. Foothill Antwren
259. Ornate Antwren
260. Rufous-tailed Antwren
261. Stripe-chested Antwren
262. White-flanked Antwren
263. Yellow-breasted Antwren
264. Rufous-winged Antwren
265. Streak-headed Antbird
266. Peruvian Warbling-Antbird
267. White-backed Fire-eye
268. White-browed Antbird
269. Spot-winged Antbird
270. Zimmer's Antbird
271. Maranon Crescentchest
272. Elegant Crescentchest
273. Pale-billed Antpitta
274. Rusty-tinged Antpitta
275. Rufous Antpitta
276. Chestnut Antpitta
277. Ochre-fronted Antpitta
278. Ash-colored Tapaculo
279. Blackish Tapaculo
280. Unicolored Tapaculo
281. Trilling Tapaculo
282. Rufous-vented Tapaculo
283. White-crowned Tapaculo
284. Black-faced Antthrush
285. Tawny-throated Leaftosser
286. Coastal Miner
287. Olivaceous Woodcreeper
288. Plain-brown Woodcreeper
289. Strong-billed Woodcreeper
290. Ocellated Woodcreeper
291. Olive-backed Woodcreeper
292. Straight-billed Woodcreeper
293. Streak-headed Woodcreeper
294. Montane Woodcreeper
295. Lineated (Inambari) Woodcreeper
296. Plain Xenops
297. Streaked Xenops
298. Point-tailed Palmcreeper
299. Streaked Tuftedcheek
300. Pacific Hornero
301. Pale-legged Hornero
302. Wren-like Rushbird
303. Cream-winged Cinclodes
304. White-winged Cinclodes
305. Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes
306. Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner
307. Montane Foliage-gleaner
308. Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner
309. Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner
310. Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner
311. Striped Woodhaunter
312. Spotted Barbtail
313. Pearled Treerunner
314. Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail
315. Rufous-fronted Thornbird
316. Many-striped Canastero
317. White-chinned Thistletail
318. Russet-mantled Softtail
319. Line-cheeked Spinetail
320. Baron's Spinetail
321. Maranon Spinetail
322. Necklaced Spinetail
323. Dark-breasted Spinetail
324. Azara's Spinetail
325. Rufous Spinetail
326. Chestnut-throated Spinetail
327. Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet
328. White-banded Tyrannulet
329. White-throated Tyrannulet
330. Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet
331. Black-crested Tit-Tyrant
332. Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant
333. Tufted Tit-Tyrant
334. Unstreaked Tit-Tyrant
335. Mouse-colored Tyrannulet
336. Tumbesian Tyrannulet
337. Subtropical Doradito
338. Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
339. Pacific Elaenia
340. Yellow-bellied Elaenia
341. White-crested Elaenia
342. Lesser Elaenia
343. Highland Elaenia
344. Sierran Elaenia
345. Torrent Tyrannulet
346. Streak-necked Flycatcher
347. Slaty-capped Flycatcher
348. Inca Flycatcher
349. Variegated Bristle-Tyrant
350. Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant
351. Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet
352. Ecuadorian Tyrannulet
353. Black-capped Tyrannulet
354. Ashy-headed Tyrannulet
355. Mishana Tyrannulet
356. Peruvian Tyrannulet
357. Ornate Flycatcher
358. Many-colored Rush Tyrant
359. Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant
360. Grey-and-white Tyrannulet
361. Flammulated Bamboo Tyrant
362. Black-throated Tody-Tyrant
363. Lulu's Tody-Flycatcher
364. Black-and-white Tody-Flycatcher
365. Common Tody-Flycatcher
366. Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher
367. Yellow-olive Flatbill
368. Yellow-margined Flatbill
369. Ochre-lored Flatbill (Yellow-breasted Flycatcher)
370. White-throated Spadebill
371. Cinnamon Flycatcher
372. Cliff Flycatcher
373. Black-tailed Myiobius
374. Flavescent Flycatcher
375. Bran-colored Flycatcher
376. Grey-breasted Flycatcher
377. Olive-sided Flycatcher
378. Smoke-colored Pewee
379. Western Wood-Pewee
380. Tropical Pewee
381. Tumbes Pewee
382. Alder Flycatcher
383. Black Phoebe
384. Vermilion Flycatcher
385. Rufous-tailed Tyrant
386. White-winged Black-Tyrant
387. Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant
388. White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant
389. Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant
390. Rufous-webbed Bush-Tyrant
391. Tumbes Tyrant
392. Maroon-belted Chat-Tyrant
393. Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant
394. Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant
395. Piura Chat-Tyrant
396. White-browed Chat-Tyrant
397. Long-tailed Tyrant
398. Rufous Casiornis
399. Rufous Flycatcher
400. Short-crested Flycatcher
401. Sooty-crowned Flycatcher
402. Pale-edged Flycatcher
403. Brown-crested Flycatcher
404. Great Kiskadee
405. Boat-billed Flycatcher
406. Social Flycatcher
407. Grey-capped Flycatcher
408. Baird's Flycatcher
409. Streaked Flycatcher
410. Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher
411. Piratic Flycatcher
412. Tropical Kingbird
413. Eastern Kingbird
414. Green-and-black Fruiteater
415. Fiery-throated Fruiteater
416. Peruvian Plantcutter
417. Red-crested Cotinga
418. Andean Cock-of-the-rock
419. Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin
420. Sulphur-bellied Tyrant-Manakin
421. Band-tailed Manakin
422. Fiery-capped Manakin
423. Golden-headed Manakin
424. Masked Tityra
425. Green-backed Becard
426. Barred Becard
427. White-winged Becard
428. Black-and-white Becard
429. One-colored Becard
430. Rufous-browed Peppershrike
431. Ashy-headed Greenlet
432. Dusky-capped Greenlet
433. Brown-capped Vireo
434. Red-eyed Vireo
435. Yellow-green Vireo
436. White-collared Jay
437. Green Jay
438. Violaceous Jay
439. White-tailed Jay
440. Blue-and-white Swallow
441. Brown-bellied Swallow
442. White-banded Swallow
443. Southern Rough-winged Swallow
444. Grey-breasted Martin
445. Tumbes Swallow
446. White-winged Swallow
447. Bank Swallow
448. Barn Swallow
449. Cliff Swallow
450. Chestnut-collared Swallow
451. Southern Nightingale-Wren
452. Grey-mantled Wren
453. House Wren
454. Mountain Wren
455. Sedge Wren
456. Fasciated Wren
457. Speckle-breasted Wren
458. Superciliated Wren
459. Buff-breasted Wren
460. Sharpe's Wren
461. Peruvian Wren
462. White-breasted Wood-Wren
463. Bar-winged Wood-Wren
464. Grey-breasted Wood-Wren
465. Tropical Gnatcatcher
466. White-capped Dipper
467. Black-capped Donacobius
468. Andean Solitaire
469. Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush
470. Swainson's Thrush
471. White-eared Solitaire
472. Plumbeous-backed Thrush
473. Varzea Thrush (and Hauxwell’s Thrush)
474. Black-billed Thrush
475. Maranon Thrush
476. Great Thrush
477. Chiguanco Thrush
478. Glossy-black Thrush
479. White-necked Thrush
480. Long-tailed Mockingbird
481. Yellowish Pipit
482. Black-lored Yellowthroat
483. Tropical Parula
484. Blackburnian Warbler
485. Three-striped Warbler
486. Three-banded Warbler
487. Citrine Warbler
488. Black-crested Warbler
489. Buff-rumped Warbler
490. Grey-and-gold Warbler
491. Russet-crowned Warbler
492. Canada Warbler
493. Slate-throated Redstart
494. Spectacled Redstart
495. Red-capped Cardinal
496. Black-faced Tanager
497. Magpie Tanager
498. Rufous-crested Tanager
499. Black-capped Hemispingus
500. Buff-bellied Tanager
501. Superciliaried Hemispingus
502. Rufous-chested Tanager
503. Plain-tailed Warbling-Finch
504. Yellow-crested Tanager
505. Fulvous-crested Tanager
506. White-shouldered Tanager
507. White-lined Tanager
508. Huallaga Tanager
509. Silver-beaked Tanager
510. Hooded Mountain-Tanager
511. Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager
512. Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager
513. Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager
514. Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager
515. Blue-and-yellow Tanager
516. Orange-eared Tanager
517. Blue-grey Tanager
518. Palm Tanager
519. Blue-capped Tanager
520. Yellow-bellied Tanager
521. Spotted Tanager
522. Silver-backed Tanager
523. Masked Tanager
524. Blue-necked Tanager
525. Blue-and-black Tanager
526. Beryl-spangled Tanager
527. Turquoise Tanager
528. Paradise Tanager
529. Bay-headed Tanager
530. Saffron-crowned Tanager
531. Flame-faced Tanager
532. Green-and-gold Tanager
533. Golden Tanager
534. Swallow Tanager
535. Black-faced Dacnis
536. Blue Dacnis
537. Short-billed Honeycreeper
538. Purple Honeycreeper
539. Green Honeycreeper
540. Golden-collared Honeycreeper
541. Guira Tanager
542. Blue-backed Conebill
543. Capped Conebill
544. Cinereous Conebill
545. Moustached Flowerpiercer
546. Black-throated Flowerpiercer
547. White-sided Flowerpiercer
548. Rusty Flowerpiercer
549. Deep-blue Flowerpiercer
550. Bluish Flowerpiercer
551. Masked Flowerpiercer
552. Peruvian Sierra-Finch
553. Plumbeous Sierra-Finch
554. Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch
555. Slaty Finch
556. Cinereous Finch
557. Grey-winged Inca-Finch
558. Buff-bridled Inca-Finch
559. Drab Hemispingus
560. Grey-hooded Bush Tanager
561. Saffron Finch
562. Grassland Yellow-Finch
563. Blue-black Grassquit
564. Lined Seedeater
565. Parrot-billed Seedeater
566. Chestnut-throated Seedeater
567. Drab Seedeater
568. Chestnut-bellied Seedeater
569. Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch
570. Black-billed Seed-Finch
571. Variable Seedeater
572. Yellow-bellied Seedeater
573. Band-tailed Seedeater
574. Plain-colored Seedeater
575. Paramo Seedeater
576. Red Pileated Finch
577. Bananaquit
578. Dull-colored Grassquit
579. Buff-throated Saltator
580. Greyish Saltator
581. Streaked Saltator
582. Black-cowled Saltator
583. Golden-billed Saltator
584. Ashy-throated Bush Tanager
585. Common Bush Tanager
586. Tumbes Sparrow
587. Yellow-browed Sparrow
588. Grey-browed Brushfinch
589. Orange-billed Sparrow
590. Black-capped Sparrow
591. Rufous-collared Sparrow
592. White-headed Brushfinch
593. Rufous-eared Brushfinch
594. Rufous-naped Brushfinch
595. White-winged Brushfinch
596. Bay-crowned Brushfinch
597. Tooth-billed Tanager
598. Summer Tanager
599. Scarlet Tanager
600. Olive Tanager
601. Southern Yellow Grosbeak
602. Peruvian Meadowlark
603. Russet-backed Oropendola
604. Crested Oropendola
605. Solitary Black Cacique
606. Yellow-rumped Cacique
607. White-edged Oriole
608. Yellow-tailed Oriole
609. Orange-backed Troupial
610. Shiny Cowbird
611. Giant Cowbird
612. Scrub Blackbird
613. Oriole Blackbird
614. Blue-naped Chlorophonia
615. Plumbeous Euphonia
616. Purple-throated Euphonia
617. Thick-billed Euphonia
618. Golden-rumped Euphonia
619. White-lored Euphonia
620. Bronze-green Euphonia
621. Orange-bellied Euphonia
622. Lesser Goldfinch
623. Hooded Siskin
624. House Sparrow

Heard Only / Untickable Views

1. Hooded Tinamou
2. Brown Tinamou
3. Undulated Tinamou
4. Pale-browed Tinamou
5. Tataupa Tinamou
6. Andean Guan
7. Wattled Guan
8. Ocellated Crake
9. White-throated Quail-Dove
10. Ruddy Quail-Dove
11. Golden-plumed Parakeet
12. Band-bellied Owl
13. Swallow-tailed Nightjar
14. Green-backed Trogon
15. Amazonian Motmot
16. Great Jacamar
17. White-faced Nunbird
18. Channel-billed Toucan
19. Black-mandibled Toucan
20. Smoky-brown Woodpecker
21. Guayaquil Woodpecker
22. Rusty-winged Barbtail
23. Rufous-capped Antshrike
24. Rufous-rumped Antwren
25. Blackish Antbird
26. Black-faced Antbird
27. Hairy-crested Antbird
28. Chestnut-crowned Antpitta
29. Rusty-breasted Antpitta
30. Thrush-like Antpitta
31. Large-footed Tapaculo
32. Neblina Tapaculo
33. White-bellied Pygmy-Tyrant
34. Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant
35. Cinnamon-breasted Tody-Tyrant
36. Chestnut-crested Cotinga
37. Barred Fruiteater
38. Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo
39. Olivaceous Greenlet
40. Thrush-like Wren
41. Chestnut-breasted Wren
42. Musician Wren
43. Coraya Wren
44. Plain-tailed Wren
45. Oleaginous Hemispingus
46. Yellow-backed Tanager
47. Grass-Green Tanager
48. Yellow-throated Tanager
49. White-capped Tanager
 
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