Digiscoping w/ the Sony Cybershot DSC-RX100 III (1 Viewer)

I've been playing w/ the new Sony RX100 III camera the past few days in the yard. The new Zeiss 24-70mm f/1.8-2.8 lens is very sharp, and the new pop-up EVF is very nice, as well. I especially like the focus-peaking capability and Auto-ISO features. Noise properties are very good, as well!
I've posted a blog w/ photos and impressions:
http://jerryjourdan2.blogspot.com/2014/06/sony-cybershot-dsc-rx100-iii-25-jun-2014.html

jourdaj said:

I've been playing w/ the new Sony RX100 III camera the past few days in the yard. The new Zeiss 24-70mm f/1.8-2.8 lens is very sharp, and the new pop-up EVF is very nice, as well. I especially like the focus-peaking capability and Auto-ISO features. Noise properties are very good, as well!
I've posted a blog w/ photos and impressions:
http://jerryjourdan2.blogspot.com/2014/06/sony-cybershot-dsc-rx100-iii-25-jun-2014.html

Click to expand...

Sorry I've been a bit slow following up on this post Jerry. I've just picked up my RX 100 M3 and will test it out in the wetlands on Monday. I won't have to do an in-depth report now as you have down an excellent job in the your blog.
Neil.

Hi Jerry and Neil,

I'm about to buy a new camera for my gear (Swaro ATM80HD + 25-50x + UCA).
I used to use a Canon Powershot S100, but it's now dead (stuck lens problem) so I want to replace it.

I'm thinking about one of the Sony RX-100's, and I'd like to get more thoughts about the M3, espacially compared to the previous ones.
Is the new lens that better than M1 and M2? Are the other improvements really useful (viewfinder, user interface...)
If you read DPReview, you think the lens is a real diamond, but of course they don't talk about digiscoping at all... So is the diamond flawed when you try to do digiscopy?

The price gap between the 3 cameras is so huge, that I'm really hesitating...
Is the M3 worth the investment?
Are M1 and M2 pretty close (so that I would chose M2 over M1?)?

Considering I was shooting with a Canon S100, what will be better with these 3 cameras? AF? Image quality?

Thank you for your answers, and if possible for the pictures you could post with RX-100 M3.

I was out yesterday with the RX 100M3 and gave it a good thrashing. Going through 3 batteries and taking about 100 gigs of stills and videos with it.
I used the pop up Electronic Viewfinder for the first time too ( 1.44 million resolution). I'm impressed. It helps to get on the bird , stay on the bird,see focus and exposure issues. I find panning easier too with the eye pressed to the camera as the scope/camera combo seem more solid.
The video is improved too -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/7892550@N03/14927923891/
with now 50 mb/sec , up from 28 mb/sec with the earlier models. Still only HD though as I would prefer 4k.
Zebra function makes finding the right exposure for video much easier and the built in 3 stop ND Filter is useful too. I wish the Panasonic GH4 had one.
Here are a few images taken yesterday with the STX 95.
Neil.

Sony RX 100 M3 and Swarovski STX 95 mm scope and Digiadapter

Mai Po Nature Reserve
Hong Kong,China
15th August 2014

Great pictures, thank you!

So it seems you are more impressed by the viewfinder than by the new lens?
If this is the case, I would rather move to the M2 because $800 is really a lot to me.

As I'm more interested in image quality than other settings (AF, speed & burst etc...), I will do the purchase only if I get a major improvement in IQ from my Canon S100.

Last, what is the "Digiadapter" you are talking about? Couldn't you use the UCA adapter on the scope?

Gduff said:

Great pictures, thank you!

So it seems you are more impressed by the viewfinder than by the new lens?
If this is the case, I would rather move to the M2 because $800 is really a lot to me.

As I'm more interested in image quality than other settings (AF, speed & burst etc...), I will do the purchase only if I get a major improvement in IQ from my Canon S100.

Last, what is the "Digiadapter" you are talking about? Couldn't you use the UCA adapter on the scope?

Click to expand...

This is the Digidapter http://digiscopeadapter.com/home.html
which is a dedicated adapter which locks you camera firmly for digiscoping so that it won't flex or go out of alignment.
I use the DCB 11 as I can quickly switch cameras in and out but the DigiDapter is a more firm support.
The new RX100 M3 lens is nice but not a major reason for getting this camera.
My three main reasons for liking this camera -
1. Electronic Viewfinder
2. Improved video
3. Apps can be downloaded to camera from the Sony store - I like Timelapse.
The M2 is still a very good camera and I will have it in my bag for backup. Both will give you better IQ than the S100.
Neil.

Thank you for the advice, I think I will order a M2.

I've noticed that the tripod socket is not located under the center of the lens...
Before planning to change my adapter, do you know if I can use it with a Swarovski UCA adapter (even if it's tricky)?
My gear is : Swaro ATM 80HD w/ 25-50x eyepiece

Thanks

Gduff said:

Thank you for the advice, I think I will order a M2.

I've noticed that the tripod socket is not located under the center of the lens...
Before planning to change my adapter, do you know if I can use it with a Swarovski UCA adapter (even if it's tricky)?
My gear is : Swaro ATM 80HD w/ 25-50x eyepiece

Thanks

Click to expand...

No problem. just move the connecting plate screw to the outside hole.
neil

Just received the M2 but I'm pretty much disappointed by Sony and by Swaro, because it doesn't fit with the UCA, even with the side screw hole.
The lens is still not centered.
I'm wondering how they dare call it "Universal" camera adapter...

Gduff said:

Just received the M2 but I'm pretty much disappointed by Sony and by Swaro, because it doesn't fit with the UCA, even with the side screw hole.
The lens is still not centered.
I'm wondering how they dare call it "Universal" camera adapter...

Click to expand...

I've used the RX100 and RX 100M2 on the UCA with no trouble. Try zooming the camera lens to about 44 mms , slide it forward and tighten it. See how it looks. If it seems a bit off centre then loosen the plate a little and twist the camera a little to the left and right and see if that looks ok. You should be able to get it very close to perfect this way.
Let me know how you go.
I'm not at home for a couple of weeks so can't test the RX100M3 on the UCA.
Neil

DCB2 vs Digidapter

Neil said:

This is the Digidapter http://digiscopeadapter.com/home.html
which is a dedicated adapter which locks you camera firmly for digiscoping so that it won't flex or go out of alignment.
I use the DCB 11 as I can quickly switch cameras in and out but the DigiDapter is a more firm support.

Click to expand...

Neil
My kit is the ATX85 and Coolpix p340. I'm a birder who'd like to start taking some opportunistic shots and I figure the DCB11 may be easier to flip in and out of the way . I'd be interested in your comparison of the DCB11 Swarovski adaptor and the Digidapter before I take the plunge. eg ease of setting up
Regards
David

madbirder said:

Neil
My kit is the ATX85 and Coolpix p340. I'm a birder who'd like to start taking some opportunistic shots and I figure the DCB11 may be easier to flip in and out of the way . I'd be interested in your comparison of the DCB11 Swarovski adaptor and the Digidapter before I take the plunge. eg ease of setting up
Regards
David

Click to expand...

David,
They are both easy to move out of the way but with the Digidapter you loosen a screw and it slips off. If you attach a string you can just hang it while you view. It's also very solidly made so no flexing and once the camera is set up it stays set up.
If your camera lens needs to be moved in and out when zooming, to keep vignetting out, then the DCB 11 is a better solution as it's easy to do, or if you want to use more then one camera.
You can't go wrong either way with the P340.
Neil.

Hello,

Maybe I should open a new thread, but it might just fit in here as it is about digiscoping with the rx100 m3.(but some kind of newbie questions).

In fact I'm (re)starting digiscoping, did a few tries some years ago, but then due to a new camera not adapted, and various reasons, I didn't really pursue.
And I just bought a sony RX100 M3.

My scope is a swarovski ATS 80 with the 20 60 eye piece, and the DCB A adapter (the one replaced by the DCB II), so this one :


And I have --a lot-- of vignetting !
(much more than with the camera I tried some years ago I think)

Basically, the only position for which I can get rid of it, is the swaro eye piece at 20x (minimum), and the Sony zoom at maximum (70mm).

From there, if I increase the scope zoom level it appears, and if I decrease the camera zoom level it appears also.

Is it normal ?

And this by moving the camera the closest possible to the scope.
In fact the 70mm position for the Sony lense is not the max physical extension (I was surprised by that, but I am also kind of a noob in photography, so ... ).

So I could bring the camera closer to the scope when the rx lense is at 70mm (and leave the camera zoom there), but then the problem is, that when the camera switches off, the lens zoom goes to full extension before closing, so that it bumps into the scope ...
(and this with the "eye relief glass protection" piece of the scope pushed inside at the max, and taking it out provides only a 1mm gain or something)

Also, moving precisely the camera on the "horizontal" axis (towards the scope) is really not easy with the DCB A adaptator, there is really a lot of friction involved (with the lower lever released of course), is this also normal ?

So really some newbie questions.., but would appreciate any advise

Also, would it be possible that the 20x50 eyepiece brings very different results ?
It is described as particularly adapted to digiscoping on swaro site :
"this eyepiece is also excellent for digiscoping."
http://www.swarovskioptik.com/nature/eyepieces-c210204/25-50x-w-p5006097

If it makes a major difference, maybe I could bite the bullet, 20x being quite a limitation in the current set up (even if it is already quite something in equivalent focal length with the sony at maximum)

Any info on that ?

Alain75 said:

Hello,

Maybe I should open a new thread, but it might just fit in here as it is about digiscoping with the rx100 m3.(but some kind of newbie questions).

In fact I'm (re)starting digiscoping, did a few tries some years ago, but then due to a new camera not adapted, and various reasons, I didn't really pursue.
And I just bought a sony RX100 M3.

My scope is a swarovski ATS 80 with the 20 60 eye piece, and the DCB A adapter (the one replaced by the DCB II), so this one :

And I have --a lot-- of vignetting !
(much more than with the camera I tried some years ago I think)

Basically, the only position for which I can get rid of it, is the swaro eye piece at 20x (minimum), and the Sony zoom at maximum (70mm).

From there, if I increase the scope zoom level it appears, and if I decrease the camera zoom level it appears also.

Is it normal ?

And this by moving the camera the closest possible to the scope.
In fact the 70mm position for the Sony lense is not the max physical extension (I was surprised by that, but I am also kind of a noob in photography, so ... ).

So I could bring the camera closer to the scope when the rx lense is at 70mm (and leave the camera zoom there), but then the problem is, that when the camera switches off, the lens zoom goes to full extension before closing, so that it bumps into the scope ...
(and this with the "eye relief glass protection" piece of the scope pushed inside at the max, and taking it out provides only a 1mm gain or something)

Also, moving precisely the camera on the "horizontal" axis (towards the scope) is really not easy with the DCB A adaptator, there is really a lot of friction involved (with the lower lever released of course), is this also normal ?

So really some newbie questions.., but would appreciate any advise

Also, would it be possible that the 20x50 eyepiece brings very different results ?
It is described as particularly adapted to digiscoping on swaro site :
"this eyepiece is also excellent for digiscoping."
http://www.swarovskioptik.com/nature/eyepieces-c210204/25-50x-w-p5006097

If it makes a major difference, maybe I could bite the bullet, 20x being quite a limitation in the current set up (even if it is already quite something in equivalent focal length with the sony at maximum)

Any info on that ?

Click to expand...

Start with the camera zoom at 50 mm (the best position on the 25-50 eyepiece) and slowly push it to the eyepiece at 20x . I don't have the 20-60 zoom eyepiece with me at the moment to test it but it's a few mms shorter in Eye Relief so you may need to boost the camera zoom another notch. There should be a tension adjusting knob under your adapter to make it easier to slide ( I haven't used yours but there is on the DCB 11).
As I shoot a lot of video with this camera (16:9) I like to set up in Video Mode to make sure there is no shadowing because it will select a higher f stop to keep the Shutter Speed as low as possible. You want to make sure when in Aperture Priority Mode for stills that your f stop is as low as possible. Vignetting starts to creep in around 5.6 so drop it lower. You could also select the Aspect Ration 16:9 in the menu and see how that looks for vignetting. I use that a lot for groups of birds out on the mudflats.
To stop the lens hitting the eyepiece when powering down there is a Power Save mode which you can set to 30 mins but anyway if it happens a few times it won't break the camera. It's designed to switch off if that happens. Just make sure you pull if back a bit before you switch it back on.
Try these before making a decision to upgrade the eyepiece.
Let us know how you get on.
Neil.

Thanks a lot for the info Neil, will try that.
About the tension adjusting knob, there is the "on/off" lever below, and in off position it is quite easy to adjust the camera laterally, but not so much towards the scope, but I don't see any additional tension knob adjuster.

About aperture, just tried, and didn't see any change with vignetting, and it was set at the lowest (2.8 for the 50 or 70mm camera zoom position).
And at 50mm, and with the camera as close as possible for its maximum extension (which is for its 24mm zoom position), I have really a lot of vignetting, not about shadows here, plain circle fully black on the exterior, and this with the scope at 20x.

Up to which level are you able to use the 25x50 eyepiece without vignetting ?

Note : in fact I had an "impulse buy" for the 25 50 eye piece yesterday, having found a quite good price (and after a bit of wine.. |^|), plus seeing a web page showing quite a difference, hope it will indeed make quite a difference...

Alain75 said:

Thanks a lot for the info Neil, will try that.
About the tension adjusting knob, there is the "on/off" lever below, and in off position it is quite easy to adjust the camera laterally, but not so much towards the scope, but I don't see any additional tension knob adjuster.

About aperture, just tried, and didn't see any change with vignetting, and it was set at the lowest (2.8 for the 50 or 70mm camera zoom position).
And at 50mm, and with the camera as close as possible for its maximum extension (which is for its 24mm zoom position), I have really a lot of vignetting, not about shadows here, plain circle fully black on the exterior, and this with the scope at 20x.

Up to which level are you able to use the 25x50 eyepiece without vignetting ?

Note : in fact I had an "impulse buy" for the 25 50 eye piece yesterday, having found a quite good price (and after a bit of wine.. |^|), plus seeing a web page showing quite a difference, hope it will indeed make quite a difference...

Click to expand...

With the 25-50x eyepiece (30-70x on the stx95) you lose vignetting about 44 mm and you can zoom all the way out to full zoom but you do have to keep adjusting the camera position. You can't move the camera too close to the eyepiece but back it off a few mms.
You will be much happier with the 25-50x eyepiece as it's state-of-the-art optically with good Eye Relief (20 mm).
Did you try the 16:9 format?
Neil.

Didn't try 16:9 yet, hope to find some time for more testing tomorrow (and still learning the camera controls).
When you say full zoom with the 25-50 eye piece, this is for the camera or the scope ?

Alain75 said:

Didn't try 16:9 yet, hope to find some time for more testing tomorrow (and still learning the camera controls).
When you say full zoom with the 25-50 eye piece, this is for the camera or the scope ?

Click to expand...

With the camera
Neil

Received the 25-50 eyepiece today.

Could test it only very briefly, but it does indeed improves quite a bit with respect to vignetting and possible zoom range for the scope. But basically the camera still needs to be brought closer to the scope than in its full possible mechanical extension (shorter at 50 or 70mm than at 24mm).
And 16:9 does improve it a bit.

So there is still the risk of the lens bumping into the eyepiece when it goes off automatically, but I need to have some tries in the field now...
(living inside paris doesn't help much here)

Neil said:

David,
They are both easy to move out of the way but with the Digidapter you loosen a screw and it slips off. If you attach a string you can just hang it while you view. It's also very solidly made so no flexing and once the camera is set up it stays set up.
If your camera lens needs to be moved in and out when zooming, to keep vignetting out, then the DCB 11 is a better solution as it's easy to do, or if you want to use more then one camera.
You can't go wrong either way with the P340.
Neil.

Click to expand...

Thanks Neil
Regards
David