Moving away from a spotting scope - but to what? (1 Viewer)

Hi,

I'm relatively new here and would like some advice.

I have a Kowa 823 Flourite Prominar spotting scope with attachments to my Canon 5D mk4 camera. However, I also have a Canon 100-400 L ll lens and teleconverters and other L series lenses. In all, quite heavy.

With my tripod and other paraphernalia, that's a long to drag around at the onset of early middle age . Also, the photographs are better through the Canon lens which, with the 1.4 teleconverter, has a similar focal length to the spotting scope with the 35mm eyepiece fitted (though nowhere near as long as the 20-60x).

I am thinking about selling the Kowa scope (which would be a shame because I think it is really good) and purchasing instead a good set of binoculars. I have the scope to sell, with 35x and 20-60x eyepieces, a Kowa C821 case and two different camera attachments (Kowa 850mm and a Novagrade digiscoping adapter set), so should be able to afford a decent set of binoculars - perhaps around £800.00?

Am I making the right decision? If so, which binoculars and at what strength?

Thoughts please?

pj

Wow Phil, that is a tough question to answer, without a bit more info on what kind of birding interest you have and how you see your interest developing.

If photography is going to continue to be your main motivator then making the best possible use of your 5D is certainly the way to go. It is a heavy camera even if your 100-400 is modest by comparison of the weights of faster telephotos. So to make the most of your investment in sheer effort of carrying those weights then I would be thinking about concentrating on your L series lens c/w extender.

Choosing binos requires you to define what you want from them. As simply a spotter to locate a likely subject you could consider an 8x32 so as to maximise field of view when scanning marshes, coasts, heaths etc and minimise weight and bulk. If you go birding at dusk or dawn you might want to step up to a 42mm and put up with the larger size and weight.

If you are wanting to get more out of your binos than simply using them as a spotter, for example if you are wanting more detail and have a fairly steady hand then a 10x42 might offer you a way to go.

For £800 you could choose an 8x32 from Meopta B1 MeoStar, Zeiss Conquest HD or Kowa's own excellent 8x33.

On the other hand this budget would cover both Opticron's Traveller 8x32 and Imagic 10x42 so you could choose the most appropriate for your day.

Have a think about what you want from your binos and get back to us.

Lee

I wouldn't sell the scope as you will miss the reach at some point and it would cost a lot more to buy back in. There are plenty of good bins out there that will let you see if binoculars you want to use before doing anything drastic. The Zeiss Terra or some of the Bushnell's that Troubadour reviewed not long ago. Their good enough to see if it works but most of us have both and a lot on the forum have more than one of each.
Steve

Phil,

Do you currently carry any binocular around with you, or don't you use one yet?

If it’s scope or bins I would suggest canon 13x36 IS bins, they’re the pair I take when I am not carrying a scope around. The stabilising allows you to see smaller detail that normally you’d use the scope for. Obviously you won’t get as much image scale as a scope, but then it’s a lot easier to carry about the place. Of course if you want to take pictures you will need a camera, though I have seen some very good shots taken with the best superzoom “bridge” cameras.

Peter

Gosh, thanks everybody. There's so much to consider.

I do have a pair of bins that my dear old mum bought me, but they are not very good and I don't usually carry any. So I do need some! And I don't really want to sell the spotting scope, as I take the point about reach and it is (or was when I got it) considered to be towards the 'higher' end in the optical quality stakes.

I guess one way forward would be to look for a second-hand pair of reasonable quality 8x42's and see how I get on with them. Would I be wise to look for a pair of image stabilised ones? I know that the technology works well in the photographic world and assume that the same degree of 'shake reduction' would apply with binoculars? For instance, I know I can gain 4 stops on my hand-held photography - which is phenomenal really. Would I be similarly 'wowed' with the binoculars?

Many thanks for your advice,

Phil

Either the 10x (waterproof) or 12x IS... I store mine in a pelicase to keep them safe. I have a nice old (pretty cheap) wide angle old pair of 7x for when I bring the scope instead of only the IS bins. I agree you shouldn’t sell anythig till you are satisfied with your setup... I regret selling several things over the years. I bought my Is bins after being wowed by my dads IS camera lenses... they released even better models last year. Try one out in a shop to convince yourself.

PEter

Hi,

I certainly would think twice about selling a good scope if I could help it - but on the other hand I tend to carry a scope on my back and bins on the neck (usually 8x32) and leave the camera (or have some tiny M43 body and 70-150mm zoom with a total weight of 600g)...

The scope allows me and others to enjoy views which often would not be possible to catch with a camera.

Joachim

Also, the Kowa 823 Prominar is a really excellent scope, but such an old design that it does not fetch much on the second-hand market. Therefore, if you'd come to regret selling it, buying a new scope of comparable quality will be surprisingly expensive.

Kimmo

Thanks again everybody. Great advice and I'm so glad that I asked for it.

I'm not going to sell anything at the moment and will research / seek out to try some binoculars. I'll start with the Canon Image Stabilised one's and take it from there.

Thanks once again,

Phil

Hi Phil,

I don't think that you will regret your decision concerning the Canon IS's. Depending upon your potential subject matter and viewing distances, either the 12x36 III or even the 15x50 IS would be good. The jury seems to be still out on the the new Canon IS 32mm models and there are good deals on the not so long ago updated 12x36 III model.

Doug......

Phil Jacobs said:

Thanks again everybody. Great advice and I'm so glad that I asked for it.

I'm not going to sell anything at the moment and will research / seek out to try some binoculars. I'll start with the Canon Image Stabilised one's and take it from there.

Thanks once again,

Phil

Click to expand...

Phil,

If you want to start off gently with IS to see how you get on with Canons I suggest you look for a second hand 10x30 Mk1. I did about 4 years ago when I bought one in mint condition from the famous site for £200. What a revelation. The stable image allowed me to see more detail than my Nikon EDG's and SE's.

I have now converted to all IS and there will be a lot of high end binoculars for sale when I find out how to upload photos to the for sale section.

If you find you don't like the stabilized Canons you will have no trouble selling them and don't worry that they have been superseded by the Mk2 as there isn't a great deal of difference.

They are different in handling for most other binoculars so just take your time to evaluate them. You could end up one as your primary binocular as the stable image is addictive.

Stan

I am sure there are personnel on this Forum who can, and be more than willing help you upload those photos.

A.W.

Phil Jacobs said:

Hi,

I'm relatively new here and would like some advice.

..................

Am I making the right decision? If so, which binoculars and at what strength?

Thoughts please?

pj

Click to expand...

Keep the scope-if after a period of using the binoculars you no longer use the scope then reconsider selling.

8x32-light weight and easier to hike with
8or10x42-better all around and low light use
15x50-better for distant birding like shorebirds and raptors

my experience is regret with selling optics that I really like

edj