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Crossing the lines: Indonesia June/July 2017 (1 Viewer)

Andrew Whitehouse

Professor of Listening
Supporter
Scotland
This summer I travelled to Indonesia for the first time. The main part of the trip was spent in Sulawesi and Halmahera, with four days at the end at Way Kambas National Park in southern Sumatra. I travelled throughout in a group of four (together with David Branagh, David Russell and Eugene Garver). The Sulawesi/Halmahera section of the trip was organised by Malia Tours, based in Sulawesi. The Way Kambas section was organised through Ecolodges Indonesia and we stayed at their Satwa Elephants Ecolodge.

The prices per person for the tours were as follows:
Sulawesi and Halmahera (21 days): 45,000,000 IDR (c. £2520/ $3305). This included all internal flights in S&H, but not international flights and connecting flights to Sulawesi from Jakarta. Otherwise everything was included.
Way Kambas (4 nights/ 5 days): $658/ £501. That included transfer from the airport at Bandar Lampung and everything else. We didn't even have to share a room.

I think these prices are pretty good value. You could do the areas more cheaply independently but would struggle to get an organised tour for as low. Many 'big brochure' tours of comparable length to Sulawesi and Halmahera cost two to three times what we paid, and that's often to be part of a larger group.

I'll go through the itinerary for Sulawesi and Halmahera in the next post. First of all, there were a couple of complications worth mentioning.

A few weeks before we began the tour, Nurlin Djuni - who runs Malia and was to be our guide for the trip - informed us that his wife had sadly passed away. This left Nurlin as the only carer for their young son, Wallace. After some discussion Nurlin decided that he would have to arrange other guides for most of the trip, although he guided us on some sections (carrying Wallace through the forest as he did so!). As a result we had a wide array of guides through the trip. These included Ateng (in north Sulawesi), Bahar (in Halmahera), and Allin (in Lore Lindu). Others were with us too, and we frequently had two or three guides with us. Although the guides were of variable experience, they were all friendly, diligent and patient.

Our guide in Way Kambas was Heri, who is the main bird guide at Satwa. He was quite excellent and his ability at finding nightbirds was as good as I've ever seen.

The other complication came when I went to Aberdeen Airport to fly out to Jakarta via Amsterdam. Just before I was about to board the plane we were told there was a technical problem and the flight would be delayed for a few hours while it was checked. This meant I would miss my connection to Jakarta. Because the delay was so late in happening there was no time to make alternative arrangements and the next time I could fly out was 24 hours later. Even then, a short delay (but this time known well in advance) meant that I got put on a Lufthansa flight via Frankfurt instead of the KLM flight I had booked. I lost a day of the trip because of this and met up with the rest of the group in Tangkoko. This delay cost two or three good species, although I was able to make up most things.
 
Itinerary Sulawesi and Halmahera

I flew into Jakarta a day late and stayed overnight at the airport hotel. The following morning, quite early, I took a Garuda flight to Manado in the north of Sulawesi, arriving mid-morning on 18th June. There I was met by Nurlin and various others and we drove to Tangkoko.

Day 1-3 Tangkoko National Park
We stayed at Tangkoko Guest House near the park. The first afternoon (for me at least, after my delayed arrival) included a boat trip to the mangroves. I spent the second afternoon and evening birding away from the rest of the group with Samuel Masedung, looking for things that I had missed. Samuel is an excellent guide, and we met him later in the trip too.

Tangkoko was good for birding, though sometimes hard work in the forest interior. It was pretty humid too.

Day 3-7 Wisma Kita Homestay, Halmahera
We drove back to Manado and flew to Ternate, where we met Bahar. Ateng also came along with us, the first time he had ever left Sulawesi. We got the boat from Ternate across to Halmahera where we met out drivers and headed a few hours across the island to Wisma Kita where we stayed for the next few nights. We birded the Foli area and the road up to Buli, which is higher altitude. The weather was quite bad at times in Halmahera, with quite heavy rain often falling, mostly in the afternoon. We saw some excellent birds but missed a few things.

Day 7-9 Sofifi - Ternate
We initially intended to visit Binagara but heavy rains meant that it was flooded out, so we stayed in Sofifi and birded nearby the following day before getting the boat across to Ternate. We stayed there overnight and then got an early flight back to Manado.

Day 9-10 Kotamabagu
From Manado we drove a fairly long distance through the Minahassa Peninsula to Kotamabagu for an overnight stay. The following morning we walked up Gunung Ambang.

Day 10-12 Tambun
After leaving Gunung Ambang we drove to Tambun and the Maleo Sanctuary, where we spent the next two nights. The final morning included visiting Molibagu Roadside. This was followed by another night in Kotamabagu.

Day 13-14 Tomohon
We drove from Kotamabagu to the town of Tomohon in the highlands near Manado. Here we visited Gunung Mahawu, a high mountain you can drive up with very good forest birding.

Day 14-15 Kaerenta Forest
After departing Tomohon we headed back to Manado for a flight to Makassar in the south of Sulawesi. We did some brief birding near the airport before it got dark. We stayed near Kaerenta Forest and birded the forest near the roadside the following morning.

Day 15-16 Malino
After Kaerenta we headed along the rather laborious road to Malino to the east of Makassar. The next morning we birded the mountain forests looking for various southern endemic species. Then we headed back down to Makassar for our next flight.

Day 16-19 Lore Lindu
Our evening flight in Makassar was delayed by a few hours so we arrived in Palu in central Sulawesi in the early hours of the morning. We headed off for the long journey to our accommodation at Nasional Homestay through the night. Shortly into the journey we got stuck by a landslide along the road, only to immediately find our van surrounded by a gang of perhaps twenty or more people. This was in the middle of the night and, seemingly, the middle of nowhere. Happily these people were friendly and were actually camped there specifically to help people who got stuck. They soon got us out and we were on our way. Then the engine overheated! Eventually that was sorted too, and we arrived at our accommodation at about 4am. A couple of hours later some of us were out birding!

Our time at Lore Lindu included a trek up the Anaso Track. Unfortunately it rained quite heavily around the top, which made birding a bit more difficult. Lore Lindu was good but we could probably have done with another day here.

Day 19-20 Talaga
We finished this bit of the tour by driving to Talaga, a few hours north of Palu. This area doesn't get visited by many tours but there were some interesting species there. We then headed back to Palu for a final overnight near the airport, before we headed off on an early morning flight back to Jakarta and then Bandar Lampung for our stay at Way Kambas.

Day 21-25 Satwa Lodge
We stayed at Satwa Lodge the whole time we were at Way Kambas. It was probably the nicest place we stayed, with excellent food and pleasant rooms. Way Kambas was hot, with a small amount of rain. It's basically an excellent place for birding though and the birds were almost totally different to those seen in Sulawesi and Halmahera.

We returned to Bandar Lampung on the final morning, where we caught a short flight to Jakarta. I caught my flight back to Aberdeen via Amsterdam on 11th July, arriving home on the morning of 12th.

I'll go through the systematic list, with photos, over the coming posts. I'll cover Sulawesi and Halmahera together and will then cover Way Kambas.
 
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Spotted Whistling Duck Dendrocygna guttata
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 8 05/07/17
A group of eight in a bay of the lake.

Wandering Whistling Duck Dendrocygna arcuata
Minahassa, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 25/06/17
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 10 26/06/17
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 6 27/06/17
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 50 05/07/17

Sunda Teal Anas gibberifrons
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 90 26/06/17
Quite a large flock distantly on paddyfields, often flying around.
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 25 05/07/17
Some good views of a large group.

Maleo Macrocephalon maleo
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 27/06/17
Very good views of a male perched in a tree near breeding grounds. Another seen briefly. Very distinctive, bizarre looking turkey-like birds.

Philippine Megapode Megapodius cumingii
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 19/06/17
AKA Tabon Scrubfowl. Two seen fairly well in low scrubby area in forest.

Dusky Megapode Megapodius freycinet
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 23/06/17
Heard only, calling at dawn.

Tricolored Grebe Tachybaptus tricolor
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17
One seen on a small pool.

Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus
Malino, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 01/07/17
One seen quite well flying up the valley at dusk.

Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 22/06/17
Seen fairly well flying over paddyfields.

Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis
Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 30/06/17
Two seen in flight at dusk. Was pleased to catch up with this species, which I always seem to miss.

Nankeen Night Heron Nycticorax caledonicus
Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 30/06/17
One immature seen in flight.

Striated Heron Butorides striata
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 18/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 24/06/17
Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 30/06/17
Palu to Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17

Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa
Seen regularly in Sulawesi. Also seen at Jakarta Airport.

Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus
Also regularly seen in Sulawesi.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Minahassa, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 25/06/17
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 26/06/17
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 27/06/17
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 28/06/17
Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia 4 30/06/17
Talaga to Palu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 15 05/07/17

Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Minahassa, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 25/06/17
In roadside paddyfields, possibly including one nigripes subspecies.

Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 05/07/17

Eastern Osprey Pandion cristatus
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 18/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 24/06/17
 

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Barred Honey Buzzard Pernis celebensis
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 02/07/17
AKA Sulawesi Honey Buzzard. Quite good views of one in roadside tree then in flight.

Sulawesi Serpent Eagle Spilornis rufipectus
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 26/06/17
One seen very well, perched in a tree at the top of the mountain.
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 28/06/17
One seen giving tumbling display flight.
Malino, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 02/07/17
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 02/07/17
Perched in a dead tree by the roadside.

Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus lanceolatus
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 19/06/17
Young bird seen very well in trees in the forest, giving frequent loud begging call.
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 27/06/17
Adult seen briefly, soaring over the ranger station.
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 28/06/17
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 02/07/17

Black Eagle Ictinaetus malaiensis
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 28/06/17
One seen distantly soaring and another seen much closer but for a shorter time.
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 04/07/17
Flew overhead at fairly close range near the top of Anaso.

Sulawesi Goshawk Accipiter griseiceps
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 19/06/17
One seen fairly well perched in tree near the car park. Seen for around one minute before flying off. This was a bit of a bonus, as it was seen when I was away from the rest of the group trying to make up species I'd missed by arriving late. Although I dipped a few species on the lost day, seeing this enigmatic species almost made up for it.

Spot-tailed Sparrowhawk Accipiter trinotatus
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 19/06/17
One seen very well, perched on a low branch.

Variable Goshawk Accipiter hiogaster
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17
Quite good views of one perched low down the road.

Moluccan Goshawk Accipiter henicogrammus
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17
AKA Halmahera Goshawk. One seen well perched low in trees by the roadside. This was a good bird to get - quite a smart accipiter.

Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus
Commonly seen in most parts of Sulawesi and Halmahera.

White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 18/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 20/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 23/06/17
Lanna, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 01/07/17
 

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Barred Rail Gallirallus torquatus
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 28/06/17
Very good views of one in a roadside field, wandering about in the open.
Minahassa, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 25/06/17
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 5 27/06/17
Quite a few heard calling.

Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 12 22/06/17
Numerous in paddyfields. Probably two family groups seen and several adults.
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 26/06/17
Talaga to Palu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 05/07/17

Isabelline Bush-hen Amaurornis isabellina
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 27/06/17
A few calling near the ranger station - a wild, burbling sound.
Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 30/06/17
Some reasonable views. Two seen in low undergrowth in forest. One seen calling for several seconds, though only head and neck clearly visible.

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 4 27/06/17
Talaga to Palu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 6 05/07/17
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Talaga to Palu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17

White-headed Stilt Himantopus leucocephalus
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 10 26/06/17

Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 30 18/06/17
A few dozen seen from the boat to the mangroves.
 

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Pigeons and Doves

This part of the world is rather good for pigeons and doves. I had some success but still missed a few. This section will also be appreciated by fans of record shots.

Rock Dove Columba livia

Spotted Dove Spilopelia chinensis
Seen in both Sulawesi and Halmahera.

Sultan's Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia doreya
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 22/06/17
A pair seen regularly on the lower part of the road.
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 27/06/17
The new field guide splits this as Sulawesi Cuckoo-Dove. Some fairly good views of a couple.

Great Cuckoo-Dove Reinwardtoena reinwardti
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 22/06/17
One flew across clearing.

White-faced Cuckoo-Dove Turacoena manadensis
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 19/06/17
A few seen at roadside scrub and trees.
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 26/06/17
Reasonable flight views.
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 28/06/17
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 05/07/17

Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon Treron griseicauda
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 10 18/06/17
Good views of several feeding on fruit near homestay.
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 19/06/17
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 27/06/17
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 10 05/07/17

Red-eared Fruit Dove Ptilinopus fischeri
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 26/06/17
Good perched views of two. This was the northern subspecies fisheri
Malino, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 01/07/17
Subspecies meridionalis often split as Lompobattang Fruit Dove. Seen well, feeding in fruiting tree. Similar to Red-eared but noticeably darker on upperparts - almost blackish green. Red ear coverts not as bright.
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 02/07/17
Quite good views of two, subspecies centralis. A bit darker than northern birds but much less dark than Lompobattang.
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 04/07/17

Oberholser's Fruit Dove Ptilinopus epius
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 28/06/17
Quite good views of two perched.

Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove Ptilinopus bernsteinii
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 23/06/17
Sadly heard only, high up on the road. One of a few species we really should have seen in Halmahera.

Superb Fruit Dove Ptilinopus superbus
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 21/06/17
One seen quite well perched in a dead tree. Birds in Halmahera are subspecies superbus, sometimes split as Eastern Superb Fruit Dove.
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17
Fairly good views of one perched, low on the road.
Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 30/06/17
Very good views of a bird perched and feeding on fruit in the forest. Quite a distinctive subspecies with vivid purple extensive on breast and yellowish tone to underparts. Forecrown also very bright purple. The subspecies on Sulawesi temminckii is sometimes split as Western Superb Fruit Dove. If you've seen Superb Fruit Dove elsewhere, I'd strongly recommend still trying to make an effort to see this form. It's absolutely stunning.

Blue-capped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus monacha
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17
One seen perched, rather distantly.
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17
Male seen quite well.
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 4 24/06/17
Roadside group, seen fairly well.

Grey-headed Fruit Dove Ptilinopus hyogastrus
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 3 20/06/17
Some okay views.

Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 20 21/06/17
 

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Black-naped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus melanospilus
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 18/06/17
Reasonable views of two females.
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 27/06/17
Reasonable views of a female.
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 28/06/17
A male seen in the scope quite well, though distant.
Palu to Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17

Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon Ducula radiata
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 19/06/17
One seen perched at roadside trees.
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 04/07/17
One flying over.

Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 20 19/06/17
Some good views, particularly in roadside trees. Distinctive subspecies paulina with orange rear nape patch.
Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 29/06/17
Palu to Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17

Spectacled Imperial Pigeon Ducula perspicillata
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 21/06/17
One seen quite well, perched in a dead tree.

Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon Ducula basilica
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 21/06/17
Very nice compact imperial pigeon with rich cinnamon underparts. Seen well in trees near start of trail.
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17
One seen fairly well, high on the road.

Pied Imperial Pigeon Ducula bicolor
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 3 21/06/17
A few flying over.

Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon Ducula luctuosa
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 5 19/06/17
Several seen in flight.
 

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Cuckoos and Night Birds

There's a lot going on with nightbirds in Indonesia. I saw some good ones in Sulawesi and Halmahera, although it was sometimes hard work. There were a few misses, a few heard only and few with poor views. Some good ones though.

Bay Coucal Centropus celebensis
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 26/06/17
Seen fairly well, with others heard. A fairly large coucal with plain brown plumage.
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 28/06/17
Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 5 30/06/17

Goliath Coucal Centropus goliath
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 21/06/17
A pair in low track-side tangles. An impressive north Malaku endemic.
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17
Prolonged views of one perched in a tree.
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 24/06/17
Fairly good views in palm plantation.

Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 26/06/17
Quite good views of one in fields.
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 26/06/17
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 27/06/17

Yellow-billed Malkoha Rhamphococcyx calyorhynchus
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 18/06/17
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 19/06/17
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 8 26/06/17
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 10 27/06/17
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 28/06/17
Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 4 30/06/17
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 02/07/17
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17
AKA Sulawesi Malkoha. This large, attractive cuckoo was regularly seen in most parts of Sulawesi.

Black-billed Koel Eudynamys melanorhynchus
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 10 27/06/17
Regularly heard and several seen fairly well, though usually briefly.
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 05/07/17
Fairly good views.

Little Bronze Cuckoo Chrysococcyx minutillus
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 26/06/17
A fairly brownish juvenile seen a couple of times near the entrance to the forest. Interestingly it was being fed by Golden-bellied Gerygones.

Rusty-breasted Cuckoo Cacomantis sepulcralis
Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 29/06/17
AKA Sulawesi Brush Cuckoo. One seen moderately well but only briefly, perched in a tall tree.
Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 30/06/17
Sulawesi Brush Cuckoo. Quite good views of one in a low tree by the road through the forest.
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 02/07/17
One seen briefly.

Minahassa Masked Owl Tyto inexspectata
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 19/06/17
A couple heard many times over two hours early evening in the forest but not seen.
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17
Heard calling a few times around the graveyard. It's possible I might have seen briefly in flight but there were a lot of flying foxes about too, so it's hard to be sure what I saw. A frustrating bird to miss seeing because I heard them a lot, and sometimes at fairly close range.

Sulawesi Masked Owl Tyto rosenbergii
Kotamobagu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 26/06/17
Roosting in a coconout palm.
Kotamabagu - Tomohon, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 29/06/17
One seen fairly well in palm tree roost in Kotamabagu.

Eastern Grass Owl Tyto longimembris
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 02/07/17
Quite prolonged views of one over grassland after dark, with another giving rasping screech call. Impressively long legs. I was very pleased to see this species, which I don't think is often seen by visiting groups to Sulawesi.

Moluccan Scops Owl Otus magicus
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 22/06/17
One came in fairly well before dawn, on the lower part of the road. A typical yellow-eyed scops owl, very similar to Sulawesi Scops. Call - a frog like burp - is noticeably different.
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 21/06/17
Calling distantly during the evening.

Sulawesi Scops Owl Otus manadensis
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 18/06/17
One female seen well perched in low tree with one other calling. Call a shrill peep with upwards inflection.
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 5 19/06/17
A few calling in the forest.
Karaenta Forest, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 01/07/17
Calling near the hotel early morning.

Ochre-bellied Boobook Ninox ochracea
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 19/06/17
Distantly calling - loud two note bark. This was an annoying one. The rest of the group had good views of a group roosting before I arrived. We failed to find them the next day when I went out with Samuel. They were calling in the evening but never very close by.

Cinnabar Boobook Ninox ios
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 04/07/17
Poor views of one in flight along the road. Was calling regularly before dawn but remained out of sight in tree tops. Call a two note low chuckling.
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17
Slightly better views before dawn, with it seen perched for a short time but with only the back visible.

Speckled Boobook Ninox punctulata
Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 29/06/17
One seen for a few seconds after dark, perched on a low post at the edge of the forest.

Satanic Nightjar Eurostopodus diabolicus
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 04/07/17
Three seen roosting around the helipad, roosting on rocks or bits of wood. One pair roosting close together. Very good to see these legendary birds so well.

Great Eared Nightjar Lyncornis macrotis
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 26/06/17
Seen flying over Tambun ranger station at dusk. Rather large nightjar with broad, forward facing wings. Flew at treetop level.
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 27/06/17
Seen several times at dusk.
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 10 02/07/17
Quite a large number over grassland at dusk. Probably displaying, flying low and bouncing up and down. Also seen hawking.

Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 21/06/17
One flushed from track early morning.

Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis
Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 30/06/17
Very good views of one perched and in flight at dusk. Sat for some time on a large rock before flying low over rough ground.
Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 02/07/17
Heard calling at the airport.

Moluccan Owlet-nightjar Aegotheles crinifrons
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 21/06/17
Laughing call heard distantly in the evening.
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 23/06/17
One seen poorly in flight. Another calling, often quite close. This was frustrating, although just about tickable. I failed to get on to the bird while it was perched for a few seconds.
 

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Swifts, Rollers and Kingfishers

Quite a bit of interest in these groups, particularly kingfishers. Kingfishers are certainly one of the families where some assistance from guides is helpful. Some of the kingfishers are really quite good. I more-or-less 'cleaned up' in Sulawesi but missed a few species in Halmahera.

Grey-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis
Commonly seen in Sulawesi.

Moustached Treeswift Hemiprocne mystacea
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 10 22/06/17
Several gathering towards dusk.

Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta
Common in both Sulawesi and Halmahera.

Halmahera Swiftlet Aerodramus infuscatus
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 21/06/17
At least a couple seen. Essentially identical to Sulawesi Swiftlet, but relatively speaking a scarcer bird.
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 22/06/17
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 23/06/17

Sulawesi Swiftlet Aerodramus sororum
Common in Sulawesi.

Purple Needletail Hirundapus celebensis
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 17 26/06/17
A large group flew low over the fields before circling upwards.

Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 18/06/17
A couple seen near the homestay.
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 19/06/17
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 5 27/06/17

House Swift Apus nipalensis
Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia 30 30/06/17
Quite large numbers overhead.

Purple-winged Roller Coracias temminckii
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 18/06/17
Very good views of one perched near homestay.

Oriental Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17

Azure Dollarbird Eurystomus azureus
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 23/06/17
Two seen fairly well but distantly.

Green-backed Kingfisher Actenoides monachus
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 6 19/06/17
Seen regularly and sometimes very well in the forest. Tended to perch quite low and often allowed fairly close approach. A large, brightly coloured kingfisher with heavy red bill.
Karaenta Forest, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 01/07/17
Black-headed Kingfisher - split in the new field guide. Three heard calling at dawn - a drawn out curlew-like whistle. One gave okay but rather dark views in low understory of forest.

Scaly-breasted Kingfisher Actenoides princeps
Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 30/06/17
Remarkably one was seen briefly flying up from the middle of the road when we entered the forest. Much better views were then had of a perched bird in the forest interior.

Lilac Kingfisher Cittura cyanotis
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 19/06/17
One eventually seen very well in the forest near the car park.

Great-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis melanorhyncha
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 18/06/17
Very good views of a pair in the mangroves.

Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 19/06/17
One seen quite well, perching low in the forest.
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 28/06/17
Good views of two along a river.
 

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Blue-and-white Kingfisher Todiramphus diops
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 4 20/06/17
This species was regularly encountered and easily seen in Halmahera.
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 21/06/17
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 3 22/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 8 24/06/17

Sombre Kingfisher Todiramphus funebris
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 22/06/17
One showed well on the lower part of the road.

Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris
Generally common in a wide variety of habitats in Sulawesi. Only seen in mangroves in Halmahera.

Beach Kingfisher Todiramphus saurophagus
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 24/06/17
Eventually had good flight views of one in Sofifi in the mangroves. Flew in and briefly landed before turning back again in the mangroves.

Sacred Kingfisher Todiramphus sanctus
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 5 18/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 20/06/17
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 22/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 24/06/17

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 18/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 24/06/17
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 05/07/17
The hispidoides subspecies.

Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx fallax
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 19/06/17
Pair found in dark scrubby gully in forest towards the end of the day. One seen close.
Karaenta Forest, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 01/07/17
One seen quite well perched on thin branches in mid-canopy.
 

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Purple-bearded Bee-eater Meropogon forsteni
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 26/06/17
Exceptional views of two. One of the highlights of Sulawesi.
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 6 04/07/17
Large group seen in lower part of Anaso Trail, perhaps a family.

Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus
Lanna, Sulawesi, Indonesia 4 01/07/17
Seen distantly in flight.
Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 02/07/17
Okay views of a couple flying over.

Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 40 18/06/17
Large flock in mangroves.
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 3 21/06/17
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 3 22/06/17
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 23/06/17 Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 24/06/17

Blyth's Hornbill Rhyticeros plicatus
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 21/06/17
A female seen perched.
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 4 22/06/17
Some good views of this attractive hornbill.
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 10 23/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 4 24/06/17

Knobbed Hornbill Rhyticeros cassidix
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 19/06/17
One seen well, perched high in tree. A huge and frankly ridiculous looking species (see pictures).
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 4 27/06/17
Some very good views.
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 15 28/06/17
Palu to Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 8 05/07/17
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 05/07/17

Sulawesi Hornbill Rhabdotorrhinus exarhatus
Karaenta Forest, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 01/07/17
Fairly poor views of two, with one seen perched rather distantly in tree by roadside. Although the views were a bit frustrating, I think I saw them better than anyone else in the group so maybe can't complain too much. This species is a lot harder to see than Knobbed Hornbill.
 

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Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker Yungipicus temminckii
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 26/06/17
Quite good views of three.
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 28/06/17
Scoped at a bit of a distance in large tree.
Gunung Mahawu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 30/06/17
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 02/07/17
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 05/07/17

Ashy Woodpecker Mulleripicus fulvus
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 4 27/06/17
A couple of pairs of this slightly prehistoric looking woodpecker showed well in the forest.

Spotted Kestrel Falco moluccensis
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 22/06/17
A couple seen with one showing well by paddyfields on the lower part of the road. AKA Indonesian Kestrel.
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 24/06/17
Malino, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 02/07/17

Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
Malino, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 01/07/17
One flew up the valley at dusk. A strikingly dark looking subspecies.

White Cockatoo Cacatua alba
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 21/06/17
Very good views of one displaying in dead tree. AKA Umbrella Cockatoo.
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17
 

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Moluccan King Parrot Alisterus amboinensis
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 22/06/17
Nice views of a pair at the top of the road early morning.

Golden-mantled Racket-tail Prioniturus platurus
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 19/06/17
Malino, Sulawesi, Indonesia 10 02/07/17
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 02/07/17
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 10 04/07/17
Seen regularly but only ever seen in flight. AKA Sulawesi Racquet-tail.

Yellow-breasted Racket-tail Prioniturus flavicans
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 28/06/17
Quite good views of two perched. AKA Minahasa Racquet-tail.

Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 21/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 5 23/06/17
A few around at a roadside stop.

Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 10 21/06/17
Several seen with some good views.
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 3 22/06/17
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 23/06/17

Blue-backed Parrot Tanygnathus sumatranus
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 27/06/17
Flight views of one.
Talaga, Sulawesi, Indonesia 4 05/07/17
Some good views of perched birds.
 

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Red-flanked Lorikeet Charmosyna placentis
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 21/06/17
Some reasonable views of a couple.
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 10 22/06/17
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 10 23/06/17
Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 10 24/06/17
Some reasonable views in palm plantation, where red flanks were noticeable.

Chattering Lory Lorius garrulus
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 21/06/17
One seen fairly well, perched in the middle of a tree.
Buli Roadside, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 2 23/06/17
Quite good views of one bird.

Ornate Lorikeet Trichoglossus ornatus
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 19/06/17
A few seen briefly in tree tops.
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 28/06/17
Flight views only.
Kotamabagu - Tomohon, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 29/06/17
Good but distant views of one.

Citrine Lorikeet Trichoglossus flavoviridis
Malino, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 02/07/17
One flying over. Not seen very well.
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 15 02/07/17
Quite a few flying around Tamming Lake. Some reasonable perched views but very restless.
Lore Lindu, Sulawesi, Indonesia 05/07/17

Great Hanging Parrot Loriculus stigmatus
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 3 19/06/17
Some quite good views, particularly of female.
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 27/06/17

Moluccan Hanging Parrot Loriculus amabilis
Foli, Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia 1 21/06/17
Distant views of one in tree canopy. Not see very well.

Pygmy Hanging Parrot Loriculus exilis
Tangkoko, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 19/06/17
One seen well.
Gunung Ambang, Sulawesi, Indonesia 1 26/06/17
Tambun, Sulawesi, Indonesia 4 27/06/17
Good views of a group in a palm near the rangers.
Molibagu Roadside, Sulawesi, Indonesia 2 28/06/17
 

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