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Converter 1.4x (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jeff
- Start date
what lens are you planning one using it on?
Just be warned that my Kenko 1.4x tc sometimes sends the IS crazy but my Canon 1.4x doesn't... others haven't had this issue but I thought it was worth pointing out.
Jaff
Registered Member
Yes, particularly if you are using a non-1D series body and are planning to tape the pins to enable autofocus. TBH I still stand by my earlier recommendation to look for a s/h Canon.
mjh73
Well-known member
I have the Canon 1.4x TC but I got it cheap(-er) from the US. Certainly very happy with mine.
There is plenty of positive feedback on the Kenko TC on the Canon forum but from memory I think there are two versions around? One of which is much superior and, some people appear to rate it at least as good as the Canon TC.
After a quick squiz on warehouse express, I think the 'good' Kenko is the Pro300 (190quid) vs the Canon (290quid), with the basic Kenko being the MC4 (120quid).
There is plenty of positive feedback on the Kenko TC on the Canon forum but from memory I think there are two versions around? One of which is much superior and, some people appear to rate it at least as good as the Canon TC.
After a quick squiz on warehouse express, I think the 'good' Kenko is the Pro300 (190quid) vs the Canon (290quid), with the basic Kenko being the MC4 (120quid).
brains
Well-known member
For anyone buying a converter, prices are good at Onestop-Digital. They include postage and arrive within a week.
http://www.onestop-digital.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=1.4x
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http://www.onestop-digital.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=1.4x
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brains
Well-known member
I've recently bought the Kenko converter from them.
I'm also wary of where I buy, but Onestop-Digital has been praised a lot on Birdforum so I went ahead with it and was very pleased with the purchase.
You can pay by paypal (or other ways), they send it airmail, let you know by email when it has been dispatched and the package needs signing for on arrival. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again.
I'm also wary of where I buy, but Onestop-Digital has been praised a lot on Birdforum so I went ahead with it and was very pleased with the purchase.
You can pay by paypal (or other ways), they send it airmail, let you know by email when it has been dispatched and the package needs signing for on arrival. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again.
tdodd
Just call me Tim
I use a Kenko 1.4X with my 100-400. Apart from the obvious difficulties with AF on a non 1 series body I do not have any issues with IS. However, since the AF is a bit suspect I prefer to use the camera on a tripod and focus using Live View.
To be honest, I don't use the teleconverter often, since with a lens that is already slow at f/5.6 it doesn't always pay to lose another stop of light, and if you were to stop down further to improve lens IQ you would then make diffraction even more of an issue. Now, if you were starting out with a nice 500/4L to begin with I can see greater value from adding the teleconverter if you want more reach.
Here is a shot with my 50D, Kenko 1.4X and 100-400 at 560mm and f/8 (wide open). Also a 100% crop. At f/8, according to those that have done the maths, diffraction softening will just be beginning to have a visible effect. The halation you may notice to the left of the bird is a problem I see without the teleconverter as well, and is only an issue when shooting bright/contrasty subjects and magnifying for 100% viewing.
EDIT : I've added a couple of shots from my 1D3 that were hand held and used AF with the 560mm combo. The chopper was shot at 1/80. Thank heaven for IS
To be honest, I don't use the teleconverter often, since with a lens that is already slow at f/5.6 it doesn't always pay to lose another stop of light, and if you were to stop down further to improve lens IQ you would then make diffraction even more of an issue. Now, if you were starting out with a nice 500/4L to begin with I can see greater value from adding the teleconverter if you want more reach.
Here is a shot with my 50D, Kenko 1.4X and 100-400 at 560mm and f/8 (wide open). Also a 100% crop. At f/8, according to those that have done the maths, diffraction softening will just be beginning to have a visible effect. The halation you may notice to the left of the bird is a problem I see without the teleconverter as well, and is only an issue when shooting bright/contrasty subjects and magnifying for 100% viewing.
EDIT : I've added a couple of shots from my 1D3 that were hand held and used AF with the 560mm combo. The chopper was shot at 1/80. Thank heaven for IS
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Stephen Fletcher
Yes, i did take the photo of the Eagle
Call me Mr Nitpicky if you like, but i always thought halation ( derived from the halides in the film emulsion ) was an effect you only got from film, not digital sensors. The same effect on a digital camera is usually from lens flare, chromatic abberation, sensor "bloom", filters, or sensor cover glass.
By the way, i love your explanations you post on here for people, so im not knocking you in the slightest.
tdodd
Just call me Tim
Well, whatever the correct term is, it is an attribute of my lens, and rarely an issue except in situations of extreme local contrast and when pixel peeping. I don't know why it is visible to the left, but not the right. I don't use a filter on the lens and the "feature" is present with or without the teleconverter, and it also affects more than one camera, so I think whatever it should be called, it is something to do with my lens. The point is, I don't want people thinking that the teleconverter is to blame, especially as this is a "teleconverter" thread.
