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Yancheng, China : In Search of the Red Crowned Crane (1 Viewer)

Frogfish

Well-known member
Yancheng / Rudong

Day 1 : Thursday 20th February
An aborted trip to Poyang Lake with Dev. had morphed into a 3 nights / 3 full days visit to the Winter home of China's iconic Red Crowned Cranes, with hopes of Sandhills and expectations of Common & Hooded too, and included a one night / one day stay at Rudong on the way back to Shanghai.

Not wanting to use my low floor clearance car for this trip Dev. had booked a SUV but it came as little surprise when Dev. arrived to pick it up that the car hire company claimed the SUV had 'not yet been returned by the previous hirer' and we were offered a choice of two saloons, so a Passat it was then. Very nice car though the Passat is, it us hardly an SUV ! Fingers crossed we don't need the ground clearance too much !

The supposed 5 hour drive up indeed took 5 hours, though that included a 1 hour detour thanks to my eclectic navigational skills, so 4 hours is easily possible for the 300 kms journey.

Arriving at just after midnight the tiny, sleepy town of Xinyanggang was ... fast asleep (wish the same could be said of the dogs early morning though their 05.00 serenade was not far ahead of the alarm clock.

For 120 RMB the hotel in Xinyanggang (there are only two and this is the 'new' one. I'll add the name later) provided a clean and spacious room with 2 double beds though as it was by now -1C both inside and outside of the room, or so it felt, a smaller room that took less time to heat up wouldn't have been an issue at all -
as it was I went to bed fully clothed ! There is hot water but since the electric is off throughout the day the water needs an hour to heat up when you return, as does the room !

Day 2 : 21st February. '4 Crane Day'
A restless night, in anticipation of delights to come, saw me up with the hotel dog's wolf impersonation at 05.00 though the hoped for hot shower didn't materialise with 'tepid' the best the heater could manage until I realised the water needs to 'run' for 10 mins before the hot water would make an appearance ! Well I just hoped my end of day 'masculine aroma' would disturb neither birds nor Dev. !

After rousing Dev. from his slumbers next door we were ready to hit the fields and ponds by 06.30. The pre-dawn -2C with wind chill making it -5C or so, made for a fresh welcome to the morning (it'd reach 9C by midday) though some breakfast noodles and green tea at the tiny restaurant opposite the hotel, opening daily at 05.00 in anticipation of birding clientele, made it a warmer one !

Our plan of attack was in the morning to scour the fields, lanes and dirt tracks in the neighbourhood of the official Crane Reserve then follow that up a trip to the reserve itself before a check on the fish ponds in the area.

It was a gorgeous bright, sunny and crisp Winter's morning, the early morning -2C and cold wind from the wound down car windows being fought off wimpishly with 5 layers including thermals, shirts, fleece, jacket, 2 pairs of socks and a scarf, balaclava and beanie !

As we worked our way around the fields, adding passerines to our Yancheng list, of which the enigmatic Reed Parrotbill featured prominently, we watched small flocks of cranes, geese and ducks above us, moving around the area. The vast majority of the cranes being Common and the geese, Bean.

We had spotted a few Commons scattered here and there in some of the fields but then, as we crouched beside the car and with the sun gloriously highlighting them, a flock of about a dozen Red Crowned Cranes were right above us - a simply stunning sight and I was suitably awestruck and was profuse in my verbal admiration in which words of a religious nature featured prominently !

Having seen numerous flocks in flight we then came across a field containing hundreds of Commons - a veritable feast for the eyes as I counted ca. 600 ! Dev. then let out an exclamation of delight as a solitary White Naped was isolated, however no matter how hard we tried we couldn't turn juvenile Commons into Sandhills.

A couple of fields later and, in amongst more Commons, three Hooded Cranes meant we could now tick them off.

The very pleasing aspect of Yancheng compared to say Poyang Lake is simply how close you can get to the cranes, at Poyang it is tough to get within a 1,000m but here we found 150-200m was about average and at best 100-125m.

So onto the Crane Reserve. This is actually very well done, they have Red Crowned Crane breeding program and a rescue and recuperation area where the cranes are assigned to large well designed, clean, pens with access to the lakeside and the cranes look to be in fine fettle. It also lets you appreciate how much larger than the other cranes, specifically Common and Sandhill, the Red Crowned are. Entrance fee is 45rmb.
There is a boardwalk across a lake holding more recuperating birds, this time Oriental Storks, and it leads to a 15m high viewing tower which gives superb views over the 'flat as a pancake' reserve which stretches as far as the eye can see in every direction. There is a 2nd 'viewing centre' accessed by shuttle buses (65rmb return per person) which we didn't visit.
The tower gave us bird level flight pics and made it easy to spot Great Bittern, Mandarin & Mallard Ducks and hunting Marsh Harriers. Brown Cheeked Rails were frequently heard but only rarely seen (just the once for us as it flew/ran screaming into the reeds giving a poor record shot, but good enough for a lifetime tick for me) !

Finally we started the long drive to the coast past fish pond after fish pond, some dry sone full. This helped us to a few species to pad out the day list including the Eurasian Spoonbills. Returning to the hotel tired but very happy after an excellent day's birding we had dumplings and fried rice washed down with a very decent Harbin beer at the tiny 'restaurant', opposite the hotel, to send us back to back to our rooms ready fir the next day.

Trip List - Day 2 (68 species)

Blackbird, Chinese
Bittern, Great (Day 2: 1. Day 3: 2)
Brambling
Bunting, Black-Headed
Bunting, Little
Bunting, Meadow
Bunting, Pallas'
Bunting, Reed
Bunting, Rustic
Bunting, Yellow Browed
Buzzard, Common.
Coot
Cormorant, Great
Crane, Common (Day 1: >700)(Day 2: >1,000)
Crane, Hooded (Day 1: 3)(Day 2: 8)
Crane, Red Crowned (Day 1: >80)(Day 2: >50)
Crane, White Naped (1)
Dove, Feral
Dove, Oriental Turtle
Dove, Spotted
Duck, Mandarin (Day 1: 100+)(Day 2: 400-500 inc. One flock of 150)
Duck, Spot Billed
Egret, Great
Egret, intermediate
Egret, Little
Goose, Bean (>1,000 per day)
Grebe, Great Crested (1)
Grebe, Little
Gull, Black Headed
Gull, Herring
Gull, Mongolian
Gull, Saunders' (flock)
Gull, Slaty Backed (1)
Gull, Vega
Kestrel, Common (4)
Harrier, Hen (1)
Harrier, Eastern Marsh (Day 1: 5)(Day 2: 5)
Hoopoe (numerous)
Heron, Black Crowned Night
Heron, Grey
Kingfisher, Common (1)
Lapwing, Grey Headed (1)
Magpie, Black Billed (1,000+ inc. One flock of 100 plus)
Magpie, Azure Winged (>20)
Mallard (numerous)
Merganser, Common (numerous)
Moorhen (numerous)
Parrotbill, Reed (many) !
Parrotbill, Vinous Throated
Pheasant, Common (>10)
Pipit, (sp. TBC from photo)
Pochard, Common
Prinia, Plain
Rail, Brown Cheeked (2)
Redstart, Durian (<10)
Sandpiper, Green (2)
Shrike, Chinese Grey (1)
Shrike, Long Tailed (numerous)
Scaup
Smew
Sparrow, Tree
Spoonbill, Eurasian (Day 1: 3)(Day 2: 6)
Starling, White Cheeked
Stork, Oriental (1)
Teal Common
Tern (Spp)
Tit, Great
Woodpecker, Great spotted (1)
 
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Day 3 : Saturday 22nd February. 'Hide 'n' Seek'

Another restless night, even though early to bed (21.30) after preparing all the camera gear, meant I was up at 03.00, writing up the previous day's activities for this Trip Report before an early morning pickup en route to the Crane Hide for what was hopefully to be close encounters of the photographic kind with our Red Crowned friends !

This turned out to be rather disappointing as having made my way into the very wet hide (do not attempt this without wellies or at the very least strong waterproof hiking boots as I had on) and taken a good spot on the left, we were entertained firstly by the maize dispensing vehicle as it seemed to break down and then by the repair vehicle, lights ablaze, getting stuck in the mud next to him !
Eventually, after 30-45 mins they managed both to repair and then extract themselves, but this was 45 mins into prime crane flight/arrival time so no crane was going to be appearing for a while ... And after that while had passed a peasant intruded on this private land strolling though with a bright yellow bag on his back and a large matching yellow dog. That put paid to any hopes we had.

Dev. had given the hide a miss but arrived to pick me up and we continued scouring the field and lanes for cranes and finally were successful in picking out a solitary Sandhill Crane for crane species #5 of the trip !
We spent a couple more hours shooting cranes, mostly in flight but some very confiding Common Cranes permitted us to within 70-100m in the car, before we returned to the Crane Reserve in the afternoon for a the final 2-3 hours of the day, looking out over the watchtower to distant cranes and spoonbills.

Trip List - Day 3 (9 new trip species)

Crane, Sandhill (1)
Dove, Red Collared (1)
Goose, Greater White Fronted
Skylark (sp.)
Snipe, Pinhoe's (1)
Swallow, Barn
Thrush, Naumann's (1)
Wagtail, White
Wagtail, Yellow
 
Day 4 - Sunday 23rd February.

Dev & I checked out of the hotel early, having paid up the night before, and arrived at the hide around 06.00 just as the sky was lightening. The previous evening we had tried to book spots but the owner was off playing Mah Jiong and not taking calls from his sister, who runs the hotel ! So we just showed up to find 8 people already occupying the hide.
Taking our seats we anticipated, nay prayed for, a Red Crowned Crane dancing display but yet again after 2 hours the same bright yellow clothed peasant walked into the field, rented specifically for the hides and birders, destroying any remaining hope, though it was noticeable that the amount of cranes flying over was way down even on yesterday, a final reminder that this is the end of the Crane season at Yan Cheng. The only winners here were the 2,000+ Tree Sparrows whizzing back and forth as a flock, enjoying their free maize breakfast.
It was not however a fruitless last few hours as we picked up a beautiful male Marsh Harrier, one of three Japanese quails seen by the departing hide togs, in the irrigation ditch behind the hide, and then flushed a woodcock whilst leaving Yancheng. And so to Rudong.

Rudong (Xiaoyangkou)

A drive of a couple of hours or so saw us arrive in Xiaoyangkou and what is surely the Driving School centre of the world, insanely 6/10 cars on the busy roads had 4 students and an instructor in them and manoeuvring around them and their erratic driving was endless amusement !

The 'Wader Capital' of the East coast was not living up to it's reputation, out of season, and the expected additions to the Trip List remained somewhere a long way South of Rudong !

Dev also noted many changes since the last time he was here, the road to the Magic Forest now closed off (though we got access to it from the other end of the road where the padlocked gate had been left open for some reason, and along the coast to the North of the temple a huge breakwater has been added, enclosing a huge amount of land for future reclamation, whilst in the area to the South of the temple land has been reclaimed behind the road for the construction of new factories and offices.

We picked up some nice birds in the Magic Forest but that concluded a hugely disappointing out of season pit stop in Xiaoyangkou and we departed for the 2.45 hour trip back to our homes in Shanghai.

Overall though a hugely enjoyable trip and YanCheng will be a certainty in the diary for next Winter !

Trip List - Day 4

Yancheng (3 new trip species):-

Japanese Quail
Woodcock
Owl (sp.)

Rudong (23 species)(3 additions* to trip list)

Blackbird
Brambling (ca. 8)
Bunting, Chestnut Eared (1) *
Bunting, Rustic (ca. 7)
Coot
Dove, Feral
Dove, Spotted
Drongo, Black (1) *
Duck (sp.)(30)
Gull (sp.)
Heron, Grey (1)
Kestrel (1)
Magpie, Azure Winged
Magpie, Black Billed
Myna, Crested *
Parrotbill, Vinous Throated (ca. 6)
Pochard, Common (ca. 25)
Redstart, Durian
Sandpiper, Green (1)
Sparrow, Tree
Teal, Eurasian (1)
Tit, Great (2)
Wader flock (8)

A final species count of 80.

Finally for anyone planning for a trip there then I'd advise late December thru end of January. We have been advised by the owners of the hide that those are the prime dates for Red Crowned Cranes. However if you are visiting China anyway, and want to add Yancheng to your itinerary, then any time from early December thru the third week of February you should still find the cranes, just not in the same numbers.
With one of the major benefits, we've found, to be that you can get very close with some patience and a few attempts (when using your car as a hide and edging forward) as we got to within 70 metres on the last day, compare that to Poyang Lake for example where (unless you go on a boat) it's rare to get within 500-1,000 metres due to the lack of cover at the usual locations of the cranes ! You won't find any Siberians in YanCheng though ;)

One thing is for certain - I'll be back here January 2015
 
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Missed off Penduline Tits (>100) from the lists (seen every day) and also Chinese Grosbeak (2) at Rudong.

And that was of course Pintail Snipe not the mythical Pinhoe's :D

86 species for the trip according to the software I use to track viewings.
 
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A few photos added. I was a little disappointed not to get close to them in the hide and get the quintessential 'Dancing Crane' shots (see Dev's amazing shots from his last trip here) ... but not too much, it was just too much fun for that :D

I hope these at least give you an idea of the majesty of these birds and the awe I felt watching them.
 

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Superb birds. Our trip in November was too early - by just one day - and all we saw was the ones in the captive area.

Steve
 
These natural shots are better than the stereotype hide shots Kevin. There is always tomorrow. Jan 2015, ghost teals n pelicans are waiting for ya.
 
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