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Digiscoping with Fuji X-E2 (1 Viewer)

These shots are fantastic. Sorry but I don't understand the connection of the camera, the eyecup looks different to my ATX, are you using the replacement eyecup from the DCB?

Thanks
 
Thanks,

you have to removed the eyecup from the scope to connect the objective of the cam.

There is no adapter needed. The thread of the objective (52 mm) is the same as the thread of the scope (without the scope cap).
Have a look at the foto above. Hope you understand what I mean.


Hope it was helpful to you.

rgds Werner



These shots are fantastic. Sorry but I don't understand the connection of the camera, the eyecup looks different to my ATX, are you using the replacement eyecup from the DCB?

Thanks
 
Hi Werner,

Fantastic photos, thanks for sharing. Could you answer the following.

1 Do you have to remove the camera to look through the scope eyepiece.

2 How many turns of the camera do you need before you are happy that the camera is firmly in place on the eyepiece thread. Do you feel that this is quite a practical arrangement for using in the field ?

3. Do you think it helps that all light is eliminated from the side when the camera lens and eyepiece are joined together.

I hope you understand my questions.
 
Thank you!

1. Yes you have to unscrew the camera objective from the scope.
That needs about 10 seconds.

2. that needs another 10 seconds.
For digiscoping it is a practical arrangement but not so suitable for
birding!


3. There a no lights from the side. The objective of the camera is screwed
with the scope. There are no problems with lights from the side.

rgds Werner


Hi Werner,

Fantastic photos, thanks for sharing. Could you answer the following.

1 Do you have to remove the camera to look through the scope eyepiece.

2 How many turns of the camera do you need before you are happy that the camera is firmly in place on the eyepiece thread. Do you feel that this is quite a practical arrangement for using in the field ?

3. Do you think it helps that all light is eliminated from the side when the camera lens and eyepiece are joined together.

I hope you understand my questions.
 
Hi Werner,

Thanks for the tips. I did a field test on my ATX 95 with the Nikkor DX 35 1.8 lens (52mm) + Nikon D7000 and Nikon v1 (with FT-1). It worked perfectly and there is no vignetting at all.

Many thanks!

Jes from HK
 
Great! Where are the photos?

rgds Werner


Hi Werner,

Thanks for the tips. I did a field test on my ATX 95 with the Nikkor DX 35 1.8 lens (52mm) + Nikon D7000 and Nikon v1 (with FT-1). It worked perfectly and there is no vignetting at all.

Many thanks!

Jes from HK
 

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Yes, thank you for the photos. Very good quality!!
May I ask you what the distance was.

rgds Werner
 
Last edited:
Yes, thank you for the photos. Very good quality!!
May I ask you what the distance was.

rgds Werner

Sure. I am no good at estimating the distance though.

The close-up shot of the curlew and one of the gull pics were taken with v1 at around 15m

Others were a bit farther at 20-30m

Not sure if that's the real distance though.

Jes
 
Hello ! I am essentially new to the form also. I have a Vortex Razor scope and have tried a Fuji the X10 ! It won't work. I love Fuji cameras, so I am thinking of getting the X100S but I don't know if it will work ? Is that lens too wide I guess is what I'm trying to find out ?
 
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