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Vortex Scope (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter P H
- Start date
Here is the only "professional" review I know of for the vortex scopes (it covers the non-ED skyline):
http://www.birdwatching.com/optics/scopenews2006.html
The reviewers made it their recommended scope for under $500. I bought it and quite liked it -- except the clarity and brightness at 60x left something to be desired (though it was usable). Also, I wear glasses and eye relief at high power was also somewhat less than I needed. I wound up returning it and getting a Kowa 883. But if you do not want to spend that kind of money on a scope (and most people probably do not), I definitely like the vortex for that price range. It is quite light and has good ergonomics. The ED version is supposed to be an improvement, but it is considerably heavier as well as somewhat more expensive.
The nomad is even lighter and cheaper, but I read one user review suggesting it was pretty useless at 60x.
Hope this helps,
Jim
http://www.birdwatching.com/optics/scopenews2006.html
The reviewers made it their recommended scope for under $500. I bought it and quite liked it -- except the clarity and brightness at 60x left something to be desired (though it was usable). Also, I wear glasses and eye relief at high power was also somewhat less than I needed. I wound up returning it and getting a Kowa 883. But if you do not want to spend that kind of money on a scope (and most people probably do not), I definitely like the vortex for that price range. It is quite light and has good ergonomics. The ED version is supposed to be an improvement, but it is considerably heavier as well as somewhat more expensive.
The nomad is even lighter and cheaper, but I read one user review suggesting it was pretty useless at 60x.
Hope this helps,
Jim
You are welcome. I have Vortex Viper 8 x 42 binoculars and am very happy with them also. Based upon what I have read, vortex has arguably become the price/performance leader for binoculars. I was not aware vortex products were available in the UK, but it is good to hear, and with the weakening dollar they should be becoming even more appealing to those overseas.
Jim
P H
Well-known member
My local optics shop agreed with you about price/performance he really rated the Razors. Quite a few shops are stocking them over here now but most can be had of the internet. I had a pair of Opticron 8x32 imagic roof prism binos costing twice the price of the Talons but to my eyes the Talons were better the Opticrons have been sold now to help fund a scope.
Paul
Paul
JohnJos
Well-known member
PH,
I have the non-ED version of the Vortex Skyline 80 scope. In general, I like it. I bought it as a starter scope to see if I would use it a lot or if I would not have a real use for it while birding. I use it a lot, especially since I've been doing a lot of digiscoping. But that has brought out its limitations.
The image is very sharp and clear at 20X and remains so up to about 40X or thereabouts. The FOV really seems to shrink above that and the image becomes noticeably darker. Still usable for viewing and digiscoping though.
The scope has a fixed zoom eyepiece. It is threaded but Vortex does not make any other eyepieces for it nor do they know of any compatible eyepieces on the market. So, no fixed wide-angle eyepiece is available that would be more usable for digiscoping.
Focusing requires quite a few complete turns of the focus wheel to go across the full range of the scope. It's not a quick action but to excessively long. A coarse and fine focus system would be very helpful on this scope.
The new MK1 adapter for digiscoping is not that great in my opinion. I bought one and tried it out for a week before returning it. It requires you to remove the eyepiece initially to install the mounting ring. Thereafter the attachment of the adapter and camera are fairly quick and easy. However, I had problems installing my camera on it (Fuji F31) because the tripod mounting hole is on the left end of the camera and that position was not accommodated by the design of the adapter. A call to Vortex support and some brainstorming resulting in a reconfiguration of the camera stage that allowed the F31 to be properly attached to the adapter. Even so, I could not eliminate all vignetting using the adapter adjustments and camera zoom. I returned it and continue to use my homemade adapter quite successfully.
One major issue I'm having with the scope is CA (chromatic aberration). I get purple halos around certain objects when I digiscope them (I'm sure it's there when I'm viewing as well but don't always notice it). Attached are two photos of a bald eagle taken this weekend and you can see the fringe around the top of the head. These images were probably taken at 40X to 50X as I recall with the camera's zoom at about half way.
I'm pretty sure ED glass would eliminate the CA but I did not want to spend that amount of money initially on a scope. Now I'm looking to do so sometime this year.
I hope this helps a bit. I think the scope is very good for its price point and would recommend it to you if you're OK with the limitations I've discussed above. Please ask any question you may have and I'll answer the best I can.
I have the non-ED version of the Vortex Skyline 80 scope. In general, I like it. I bought it as a starter scope to see if I would use it a lot or if I would not have a real use for it while birding. I use it a lot, especially since I've been doing a lot of digiscoping. But that has brought out its limitations.
The image is very sharp and clear at 20X and remains so up to about 40X or thereabouts. The FOV really seems to shrink above that and the image becomes noticeably darker. Still usable for viewing and digiscoping though.
The scope has a fixed zoom eyepiece. It is threaded but Vortex does not make any other eyepieces for it nor do they know of any compatible eyepieces on the market. So, no fixed wide-angle eyepiece is available that would be more usable for digiscoping.
Focusing requires quite a few complete turns of the focus wheel to go across the full range of the scope. It's not a quick action but to excessively long. A coarse and fine focus system would be very helpful on this scope.
The new MK1 adapter for digiscoping is not that great in my opinion. I bought one and tried it out for a week before returning it. It requires you to remove the eyepiece initially to install the mounting ring. Thereafter the attachment of the adapter and camera are fairly quick and easy. However, I had problems installing my camera on it (Fuji F31) because the tripod mounting hole is on the left end of the camera and that position was not accommodated by the design of the adapter. A call to Vortex support and some brainstorming resulting in a reconfiguration of the camera stage that allowed the F31 to be properly attached to the adapter. Even so, I could not eliminate all vignetting using the adapter adjustments and camera zoom. I returned it and continue to use my homemade adapter quite successfully.
One major issue I'm having with the scope is CA (chromatic aberration). I get purple halos around certain objects when I digiscope them (I'm sure it's there when I'm viewing as well but don't always notice it). Attached are two photos of a bald eagle taken this weekend and you can see the fringe around the top of the head. These images were probably taken at 40X to 50X as I recall with the camera's zoom at about half way.
I'm pretty sure ED glass would eliminate the CA but I did not want to spend that amount of money initially on a scope. Now I'm looking to do so sometime this year.
I hope this helps a bit. I think the scope is very good for its price point and would recommend it to you if you're OK with the limitations I've discussed above. Please ask any question you may have and I'll answer the best I can.
Attachments
vkalia
Robin stroker
I have the Skyline ED and while I dont have a basis for comparison (it is my first scope), I think that it is an excellent scope (especially as I got it for the pricely sum of $475 as a demo unit).
The image is sharp with a nice wide view at 20x. By the time you get to 60x, you have to turn the eye-relief to zero in order to have a reasonable field of view. 60x is usable. Not great, but better than nothing.
On the ED version, atleast, I have not noticed any CA. Have yet to try digiscoping on it, so cannot comment there.
Overall, very satisfied. I ended up buying the scope after my good experience with the 8x42 Vipers and it has turned out to be a good decision.
Vandit
The image is sharp with a nice wide view at 20x. By the time you get to 60x, you have to turn the eye-relief to zero in order to have a reasonable field of view. 60x is usable. Not great, but better than nothing.
On the ED version, atleast, I have not noticed any CA. Have yet to try digiscoping on it, so cannot comment there.
Overall, very satisfied. I ended up buying the scope after my good experience with the 8x42 Vipers and it has turned out to be a good decision.
Vandit
P H
Well-known member
One major issue I'm having with the scope is CA (chromatic aberration). I get purple halos around certain objects when I digiscope them (I'm sure it's there when I'm viewing as well but don't always notice it). Attached are two photos of a bald eagle taken this weekend and you can see the fringe around the top of the head. These images were probably taken at 40X to 50X as I recall with the camera's zoom at about half way.
Thanks John, I have the Fuji f20 camera and that on its own suffer from CA wonder if thats making it even show more when digiscoping.
Paul.
Thanks John, I have the Fuji f20 camera and that on its own suffer from CA wonder if thats making it even show more when digiscoping.
Paul.
P H
Well-known member
Hi Vandit, that seems tobe a gteat price for the ED version, here in England it sell for £400
Paul
JohnJos
Well-known member
Paul,
Maybe it is the Fuji F31 and not the Vortex scope. I bought the F31 for digiscoping and just use it for that purpose. So I really have no experience with it for normal picture taking. Nor have I used any other digital camera for digiscoping. I have an older Canon SD400 that I could try but I would have to compare both while digiscoping the same subject that is causing CA with the Fuji. If the opportunity presents itself I will try this experiment. It also depends on whether or not my homemade adapter works with my Canon without too much adjustment.
My guess is that it's the Vortex scope and not the camera.
Maybe it is the Fuji F31 and not the Vortex scope. I bought the F31 for digiscoping and just use it for that purpose. So I really have no experience with it for normal picture taking. Nor have I used any other digital camera for digiscoping. I have an older Canon SD400 that I could try but I would have to compare both while digiscoping the same subject that is causing CA with the Fuji. If the opportunity presents itself I will try this experiment. It also depends on whether or not my homemade adapter works with my Canon without too much adjustment.
My guess is that it's the Vortex scope and not the camera.
I am not a digiscoper, but it is my understanding that even the best scopes are not at their best for digiscoping purposes when using a zoom eyepiece above 20x; it is often recommended either to stick with 20x or switch to a fixed power eyepiece (not an option here of course). I just wanted to put that in perspective.
As for ordinary viewing, I never noticed any chromatic aberration when using the scope.
Jim
P.S.: Also, just to clarify. Though this thread was started in the Eagle Optics forum, (and Eagle Optics does sell Vortex scopes), Vortex is a separate company and separate brand from Eagle Optics.
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JohnJos
Well-known member
Jim,
I certainly agree with you and have read a lot of the discussion on digiscoping with respect to eyepieces on this forum. But the Vortex does not have a fixed power eyepiece option and if you have the zoom you tend to use it when needed. I don't get CA a lot in my photos but I think it occurs when the lighting is at a certain angle or something like that. It's interesting to see that the CA purple fringe is just around the white head of the eagle. It was a bright sunny morning with the sun behind and to the right of me. I had a similar incident of CA fringing on a red-tailed hawk I photographed at a similar time of day and possibly similar sun position. I had a purple fringe just under the beak of the RTH against a mostly blue sky. Much less zoom used in taking that photograph. I'll post it when I get home tonight. You've confirmed my observations that I really haven't noticed CA while viewing, just a few times while digiscoping. Unfortunately it was in getting a photograph of two great subjects that it has manifested itself most noticeably.
Yes, maybe this thread should be moved to another more appropriate category under "Spottingscopes..."
I certainly agree with you and have read a lot of the discussion on digiscoping with respect to eyepieces on this forum. But the Vortex does not have a fixed power eyepiece option and if you have the zoom you tend to use it when needed. I don't get CA a lot in my photos but I think it occurs when the lighting is at a certain angle or something like that. It's interesting to see that the CA purple fringe is just around the white head of the eagle. It was a bright sunny morning with the sun behind and to the right of me. I had a similar incident of CA fringing on a red-tailed hawk I photographed at a similar time of day and possibly similar sun position. I had a purple fringe just under the beak of the RTH against a mostly blue sky. Much less zoom used in taking that photograph. I'll post it when I get home tonight. You've confirmed my observations that I really haven't noticed CA while viewing, just a few times while digiscoping. Unfortunately it was in getting a photograph of two great subjects that it has manifested itself most noticeably.
Yes, maybe this thread should be moved to another more appropriate category under "Spottingscopes..."
One major issue I'm having with the scope is CA (chromatic aberration). I get purple halos around certain objects when I digiscope them (I'm sure it's there when I'm viewing as well but don't always notice it). Attached are two photos of a bald eagle taken this weekend and you can see the fringe around the top of the head. These images were probably taken at 40X to 50X as I recall with the camera's zoom at about half way.
I'm pretty sure ED glass would eliminate the CA but I did not want to spend that amount of money initially on a scope. Now I'm looking to do so sometime this year.
John,
It looks like the adapter is not centering the camera and may not be square. In which case it could be exaggerating the "purple fringing". Even with my HD swarovski (ED glass ) if I look off to the side with subjects against the light, I see fringing.
My first Bushnell and kowa scopes had fringing so I just tried to find subjects with solid color behind them rather than pale skies.
Neil.
I'm pretty sure ED glass would eliminate the CA but I did not want to spend that amount of money initially on a scope. Now I'm looking to do so sometime this year.
John,
It looks like the adapter is not centering the camera and may not be square. In which case it could be exaggerating the "purple fringing". Even with my HD swarovski (ED glass ) if I look off to the side with subjects against the light, I see fringing.
My first Bushnell and kowa scopes had fringing so I just tried to find subjects with solid color behind them rather than pale skies.
Neil.
JohnJos
Well-known member
Neil,
You are correct...the adapter was hastily attached to the eyepiece so as to get a photo of the eagles. It was so unexpected to see the two eagles at this location that I was very excited and wanted to photograph the birds quickly before they departed. I needn't have worried because they stayed for quite some time, maybe 15 - 20 minutes, but did relocate further away after about 5 minutes or so. I didn't notice the misalignment while I was taking the photos but saw it after I downloaded the images and started looking at them. They were also in rather poor focus.
So the fact that the camera lens was not parallel to the eyepiece lens may have contributed to the CA. I didn't know that could happen. I will have to take greater care in positioning the adapter on the EP in the future. I'm also working on modifying the adapter so that the installation is more foolproof.
I also have to work on a way to ensure perfect focus. I can get good focus when looking directly through the eyepiece without the camera attached. Then my photos are sharp. But when I move the scope and have to refocus, I don't always remove the camera and refocus but try to do that through the camera display. With my poor eyesight (I need reading glasses to see close-up), that usually results in a poorly focused image. I'm going to try a sun-shade/loupe device to help assist with proper focus. But I should just get in the habit of removing the camera, refocusing, reattaching the camera and then shooting the subject to get the best image possible.
Thanks for your valuable input Neil.
You are correct...the adapter was hastily attached to the eyepiece so as to get a photo of the eagles. It was so unexpected to see the two eagles at this location that I was very excited and wanted to photograph the birds quickly before they departed. I needn't have worried because they stayed for quite some time, maybe 15 - 20 minutes, but did relocate further away after about 5 minutes or so. I didn't notice the misalignment while I was taking the photos but saw it after I downloaded the images and started looking at them. They were also in rather poor focus.
So the fact that the camera lens was not parallel to the eyepiece lens may have contributed to the CA. I didn't know that could happen. I will have to take greater care in positioning the adapter on the EP in the future. I'm also working on modifying the adapter so that the installation is more foolproof.
I also have to work on a way to ensure perfect focus. I can get good focus when looking directly through the eyepiece without the camera attached. Then my photos are sharp. But when I move the scope and have to refocus, I don't always remove the camera and refocus but try to do that through the camera display. With my poor eyesight (I need reading glasses to see close-up), that usually results in a poorly focused image. I'm going to try a sun-shade/loupe device to help assist with proper focus. But I should just get in the habit of removing the camera, refocusing, reattaching the camera and then shooting the subject to get the best image possible.
Thanks for your valuable input Neil.
