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About to purchase..... but (1 Viewer)

davidblades

Well-known member
United Kingdom
I am very eager to start digiscoping and have been enjoying this forum very much.

I have narrowed my choice down to either a Kowa 883 or Swarovski 80HD scope.

Now that the Nikon P6000 has been discontinued (my first choice) I would like to get a Lumix G1. My question is can anyone give me their opinions on which one would would be more suitable and why? And also what adapters am I best using to begin with? My intention was to choose the Panasonic Micro 4/3rds 20mm f1.7 LUMIX G pancake lens to use with the G1.

Thank you in advance for any advice given
 
No doubt the G1 has nice digiscoping potential. But I have to ask, do you really want to limit yourself to only 2400mm effective focal lengths? I tend to use focal lengths of 3000mm-5000mm even at relative close distances.

Also, if you are going to use dSLR I highly recommend getting a straight scope, NOT the angled version. It will much easier to balance and not extert excessive tork on your relatively fragile camera lens.

I have the Kowa 883 so am partial to it. Its 8mm larger aperture and the dual speed focuser are features that are VERY useful for digiscoping.

happy holidays,
Rick
 
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No doubt the G1 has nice digiscoping potential. But I have to ask, do you really want to limit yourself to only 2400mm effective focal lengths? I tend to use focal lengths of 3000mm-5000mm even at relative close distances.

Also, if you are going to use dSLR I highly recommend getting a straight scope, NOT the angled version. It will much easier to balance and not extert excessive tork on your relatively fragile camera lens.

I have the Kowa 883 so am partial to it. Its 8mm larger aperture and the dual speed focuser are features that are VERY useful for digiscoping.

happy holidays,
Rick

Thanks for the advice Rick.... I should have also said that I would have the 14-45mm lens that comes with the G1, although I'm not sure how that performs when being used for digiscoping??
 
Which Panasonic Lens: 20mm or 14-45mm?

I am in the same boat in terms of lens decisions.

Here is where my research is:

The 20mm is brighter and smaller but doesn't focus internally and so, if you don't want the lens moving the body of the camera when it focusses, requires an external adapter.

The 14-45mm focusses internally and zooms, so would be a good match for a fixed EP which might be brighter than a zoom. Also one could mount directly to an EP with step-up/down rings.

Always with the trade-offs.
 
I have the swaro...as of recently -----and I looked at the kowa 77mm and the swaro 80mm. I actually like the single focus as opposed to the dual focus which the kowa has. one focus is fine especially when my hands are working with a camera and adjusting the scope etc.... but you can't go wrong with either and the kowa is actually rated as number one, although by a hair...
 
Also, if you are going to use dSLR I highly recommend getting a straight scope, NOT the angled version. It will much easier to balance and not extert excessive tork on your relatively fragile camera lens.

I thinkt that forces on the lens are smaller on angled version of the scope. Gravity?

But the G1 is very light so I think that shouldn't be a problem.
I have angled 883 with G1 and P6000 - no problem with either.
 
I thinkt that forces on the lens are smaller on angled version of the scope. Gravity?

But the G1 is very light so I think that shouldn't be a problem.
I have angled 883 with G1 and P6000 - no problem with either.

All - since the angled scope deflects the effect of gravity / torque on the eyepiece mount by 45 degrees, the direct force of the camera against the angled scope would be less than that of a straight scope. Another advantage is that the moment-arm is less, since the camera is not extended as far from the scope foot, so counter-balancing is easier.

I used my (heavy!) Nikon D1 with 50mm lens and DCA adapter on my ATS and STS scopes for almost two years with no problems. However, I was sure to ALWAYS take the camera off the scope if I was going to move the scope and tripod, even for a short distance.

Aiming the scope is a matter of practice - I can acquire flying birds through the D-SLR with either scope model, but I do it a LOT.

In a "perfect" optical system, an 88mm scope gathers 21% more light than an 80mm scope, which is 1/5 of an f/stop. In real-life shooting terms, that is a negligable advantage. An 88mm scope would theoretically give another 10% more resolution than an 80mm scope, but that's only when everything is done correctly - in truth, a digiscope photo rarely gets "everything".

Your call,

Clay Taylor
Swarovski Optik NA
Calallen (Corpus Christi), TX
 
About to purchase

I am very eager to start digiscoping and have been enjoying this forum very much.

I have narrowed my choice down to either a Kowa 883 or Swarovski 80HD scope.

Now that the Nikon P6000 has been discontinued (my first choice) I would like to get a Lumix G1. My question is can anyone give me their opinions on which one would would be more suitable and why? And also what adapters am I best using to begin with? My intention was to choose the Panasonic Micro 4/3rds 20mm f1.7 LUMIX G pancake lens to use with the G1.

Thank you in advance for any advice given

I now use a Ricoh GX200 camera. It is very light and good manual settings including a number of favorites. The cheapest way of attaching the camera to scope is using poly tube/plastic water hose fittings. You can then upgrade to aluminium adaptor down the track using the same method.

I use a Swarovski 65 scope as I am primarily a bird watcher and lugging anything bigger through the bush ect is not my idea of fun.

Cheers

finno
 
Clay, I do have some experience shooting angled with a dSLR too. We could debate the minutae of the physics of balance and forces ad nausem but I think this pic can reveal the main annoyance I found with a dSLR on an angled scope when behind a blind with typical narrow viewing ports.

Because the camera/lens combo extension above the eyepiece becomes long-ish, I had to shoot "blind" with my head above and scope thru the viewing port. Constantly have to move my head from a viewing position to a shooting position becomes tiring. Yes, you can learn to just pan/view through the camera viewfinder but birding looses its "magic" and why even make the effort when you can choose not to?

Now I have chosen angled scope to digiscope with a compact digicam but only because I use a swing-out adapter which allows me to use the scope visually as well. But using a dSLR almost necessitates using the scope exclusively as super-telephoto lens. A straight scope, especially one with a helicoid focuser like the Swaro, just works much more "natural" with a dSLR.

cheers,
Rick

PS. I am a San Antoino native, living there for 28yrs and have many fond memories of Corpus and Rockport area.
 

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Clay, I do have some experience shooting angled with a dSLR too. We could debate the minutae of the physics of balance and forces ad nausem but I think this pic can reveal the main annoyance I found with a dSLR on an angled scope when behind a blind with typical narrow viewing ports.

Because the camera/lens combo extension above the eyepiece becomes long-ish, I had to shoot "blind" with my head above and scope thru the viewing port. Constantly have to move my head from a viewing position to a shooting position becomes tiring. Yes, you can learn to just pan/view through the camera viewfinder but birding looses its "magic" and why even make the effort when you can choose not to?

Now I have chosen angled scope to digiscope with a compact digicam but only because I use a swing-out adapter which allows me to use the scope visually as well. But using a dSLR almost necessitates using the scope exclusively as super-telephoto lens. A straight scope, especially one with a helicoid focuser like the Swaro, just works much more "natural" with a dSLR.

cheers,
Rick

PS. I am a San Antoino native, living there for 28yrs and have many fond memories of Corpus and Rockport area.

Rick

Have you thought about rotating the body of the scope so at least you can view the subject at the same time albeit at an angle? lining up the camera and balance may be an issue with the tripod but its worth a try if you really like to look on the same level, BTW i am in the straight scope camp FWIW

Paul
 
Hi Paul,

You mean like in the pic below? ;) Yeah, I sometime have to do that even with this rig when I am in a hide here. Really is a kludge IMO

I would probably change to a straight scope in heartbeat if I could find the same 50% off deal I got on this angled Kowa.

cheers,
Rick
 

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