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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Travels with Mildred (In search of Canis lupus) (1 Viewer)

Evening pictures:

Black-tailed Prairie Dog X 4

Horned Lark
 

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More evening pictures:

Burrowing Owl
Beware of Bison
Badlands at sunset (without sun!)
Coyote after sunset (I know its not very good but its all I've got!)
Prairie Rattlesnake
 

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The gopher (bull) snake and another one of the rattler, just because it's cool!
 

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You might like this one as well then, the Mexican Wave alarm call!

John
 

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Day 12 - Thursday

Up and out in the dark, after a cup of tea. I should mention here Marion's sterling (if slightly self-interested) efforts to ensure that proper English-style tea was available every morning.

We didn't have to load up as we were coming back into town to get breakfast later, so it was into the bus with the birding kit and head out to the Badlands.

Just before we reached the turn-off we found another White-tailed Jackrabbit by the side of the road. It wasn't in a hurry to move off and despite the lack of light we managed to get some pictures.

Back out on the track in the half-light, we reached the prairie dog town to find a pale raptor sitting on the ground near the far side of the close-grazed turf. Scopes were deployed and established that we had a tick - a fairly poor view of our first Ferruginous Hawk! We had a reasonable expectation of seeing more over the next two days, but it was nice to get it under the belt. There was no sign of the Coyote or any other land predators, but a big bull Bison ambled in our direction, causing us to make a precautionary move to the car until it became clear he just wanted to give himself a good scratch on the tips of the posts buried in the ground to prevent people driving around on the prairie dog town. We drove the same track as the previous night as the light gathered, picking up Western Meadowlarks and Horned Larks as well as a repeat performance from the Red-headed Woodpecker.

We frequently stopped to scan canyon edges and the more open of the valleys, but found little until, on the way back, a Wild Turkey was spotted. I'd managed to miss this species throughout two weeks in California and was delighted to see this female with a few half-grown chicks. the pictures are record only but still satisfying. A Spotted Towhee on a juniper bush and an array of common familiar local birds followed.

Back at the dog town we took a few more pictures of the rodents, then moved onwards and found the Bighorn Sheep flock returning from the grasslands to the cliffs, augmented by two rams with proper horns - out cameras! With minimal delay we obtained pictures of the Bighorns actually in cliff habitat, then back to Wall for a substantial breakfast at the Cowboy Cafe.

After that, sadly, it was time for a drive with not much birding excitement to it. We lingered on the passage through the edge of the Badlands, stopping a couple of times for pictures of the stark landscape, and then onwards through the Oglala Sioux reservation. Brief views of Blue Grosbeak were about the only variation on grassland, pine woodland and thin strips of willow following narrow and shallow watercourses.

The other depressing aspect was that although there were some cheerful and apparently hard-working Indians on the reservation, there seemed to be many more that sourly subsisted on - presumably - government hand-outs and refused to make effort to better themselves. Now I am the last to deny that in the 19th century the US Government's treatment of its indigenous peoples was doubtful at best: but in the 21st century there must be some responsibility on them for their own situation?

The most dreadful thing we saw was at Wounded Knee. I was curious to see how the Sioux remembered the undoubted massacre, but we didn't find out properly, because its at that site that the tribe members who really reject that self-sufficiency and self-improvement gather to beg. We stopped at the noticeboards that tell the story and they were knocking on the windows: it was like Delhi. We moved on very quickly.

For most of the trip, with wildlife abundant on every side, we hadn't bothered with the entertainment equipment in the car, but on these latter long drives we turned the radio on. All we could raise in the Oglala reservation was Sioux radio, and if anyone ever feels that any British radio station is unlistenable to, pray visit Wounded Knee and turn the car radio on. I can now categorically state that you cannot take a human being and make them a DJ without some training and education in media studies, presentation and human relations. Five minutes was funny. Ten minutes was disbelief. Twenty minutes was excruciating and the radio went off till we were out of range (and in range of another station.) I'd rather watch TOWIE.

Not long after this we crossed another state line and we were in Nebraska. Nebraska is wide and flat and how Bruce Springsteen found enough for an album in it is a mystery. We crossed it with few stops, except for one quite curious American oddity that was also, for us, a curious coincidence. A couple of days before, while we were discussing the impact of Mount Rushmore and considering other cultural iconic structures, Stonehenge had been mentioned, and in an aside I related how I'd seen a newspaper article about how an American had built a replica from American cars. Of course, I had no idea where it was in the USA.

Suddenly, on our left, there it was - Carhenge! "Stop, stop" I shrieked, though I think the car was already slowing. We turned into the gravel car park and hopped out. There indeed it was: a circle of huge grey-painted trilithons composed of American automotive history - ancient Cadillacs with fins on the rear wings, jeeps and so on, either planted vertically in the ground or welded across the top of two of the upright vehicles.

This just had to be photographed and we for once put away our long lenses in favour of wide-angles and short zooms. The replica really is close to the original, with a few cars buried at shallow angles to represent the Stonehenge stones that have fallen and sunk to the ground.

It is run as a business and there is a small gift shop where you can buy t-shirts and other clothing, key-rings, bumper stickers and so on. Bizarre. I bought a t-shirt. We also met some Americans also travelling through Nebraska and similarly stopping out of surprise and curiosity. Their opening gambit (after hearing our accents) of "What the hell is a bunch of Brits doing in Nebraska?" confirmed our belief that there is nothing in the state.

Along the side of the road further on there was a Pheasant (which explained a couple of unidentified corpses squashed into the tarmac).

The weather included a couple of heavy rain storms, black skies and absolutely lashing downpours. When we came out of them, the weather reverted to hot and sunny. The extremes were hard to adjust to. The drive was also boring. We were reduced to using the trip count to measure the length of coal trains on the track paralleling our road: one was a mile and a half long - now that's a train!

Some isolated buttes offered the hope of some variation in wildlife but apart from a few Pronghorns, nothing showed itself.

Eventually we reached our overnight stop in Kimball. The motel was OK, but a drive through town had not shown us a great variety of eateries at which to find a meal. Fortunately the motel desk man suggested the local golf course, providing us with directions to reach it. I had a quick scout around for wildlife, coming up with pictures of Mourning Dove, and then we piled back into the car and up to the golf course.

We were all a bit doubtful about this. There are plenty of American films and TV series plugging the "country club" atmosphere - like English traditional golf clubs, homes of snobbery and viciousness - and we were a bunch of road-worn birders. Nevertheless we had defiantly failed to dress up for the occasion! It didn't matter. In this small town the golf club was more like the local pub than the Royal St Marks, and they were happy to welcome us in, feed us, water us and of course take our money (I should emphasise that the prices were reasonable and the food and beer were excellent!)

We had a walk around before dining, being entertained by close flocks of Nighthawks as well as a House Finch or two, and American Goldfinch that wouldn't hang about for photos, and a few Chipping Sparrows that wer similarly unhelpful. After perhaps our most boring day - though in fairness it had started pretty well with the wildlife and landscapes of the Badlands - it was nice to relax with a few beers and then crash out for a good night's sleep.

Pix later.

John
 
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Thank you! I aim to entertain as well as inform.

Pix

White-tailed Jackrabbit
American Bison X 2
Black-tailed Prairie Dog
Bighorn Sheep - with big horns!
 

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More pix:

Steve surveying the Badlands

Badlands landscapes X 3
 

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Carhenge!

Carhenge
Mile and a half train
Contrasting weather
 

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Day 13 - Friday

Last day in the field. Bum.

On the other hand, we had a few new birds to hope for today, because we were planning to drive through the Pawnee National Grasslands to look for longspurs.

First we had to get there, heading South on US71 past the East block of the grasslands to no very great effect before turning West to begin the Birder Route signposted across the West block. From the start it was clear that whatever else we saw, we were going to see myriads of Lark Buntings: they were along the track in such profusion that there was a real risk of us missing other birds among the flocks that rolled along the gravel and the wire fences in front and to the sides of us. We made a point of getting photographs early on, we didn't want this to be the bird you get home and realise you saw loads and forgot to get pictures! There were quite a lot of Horned Larks as well, and the odd Swainson's Hawk - each of those got fairly grilled because we still wanted more on Ferruginous Hawk.

We picked up Vesper Sparrows, Chipping Sparrows and Lark Sparrows. We had a Brewer's Sparrow sitting on a a wire next to a huge hulking Lark Bunting. We had a juvenile Grasshopper Sparrow that took us ages to identify even with good photos. Next to a dwelling place we had a cracking Loggerhead Shrike sitting up on telephone wires. There were odd Pronghorns wandering along, but all of them were distant. There were a few patches of Black-tailed Prairie Dogs but not the numbers we'd had in the Badlands.

What there weren't, anywhere in any numbers, were longspurs of any description. For hours and hours, under another blazing sun. Until just after we passed the smelliest herd of black cows in America, when there was this thing sitting up on a barbed-wire fence and finally we were all looking at a single, partly moulted, scabby-looking McCown's Longspur. Hurrah! We photographed it before it could evaporate in a wisp of smoke.

Moving on, we encountered a Ferruginous Hawk that condescended to give us a decent flyby, very enjoyable and we all appreciated it. Our next raptor was a Northern Harrier that gave us quite good views before we were distracted by a male Blue Grosbeak sitting on a fence. Unfortunately this was into the sun but we did our best with it, and also with a female or juvenile we found once the male had flown off. A Western Kingbird also gave decent views nearby.

And that was about it for the Pawnee Grasslands. Its a place that has some good birds in it but they are hard to dig out of a wide landscape and you have to put the effort in (and time: don't go there for a drive-by, it requires a slow hand). We had a sensible amount of miles to go, I was out of sites but we had time before we needed to be back at Denver, so Steve picked a reservoir with a pin from several and we drove over to Jackson Lake State Park to have a look.

Apart from some difficulty understanding the payment system (which was designed to be difficult) we found the place OK and parked up after a jolly jape in which the chaps drove away and hid while I was using the lavatorial facilities. Most amusing. Walking towards the reservoir beach, we found a toad. We had trouble photographing it because most un-toadlike, it went like a rocket and had to be headed off by me running about like a Border Collie, otherwise it would have been off the sand and out of sight like lightning. After some discussion it appears it was Woodhouse's Toad.

Down on the beach we found a California Gull on the water, though three of us were distracted by a pair of - ah - chickadees displaying. Marion was distracted by lots of ants on the beach around her sandalled feet, which fortunately prevented her noticing what I was distracted by for some time.

There really wasn't much going on though, so we drove further round to the boat ramp, where as soon as the door was opened our parking permit went through the opening and was hurtled across the car park by a strong and growing wind. I pursued it with Jeff hard on my heels, and fortunately it caught on some branches among the rocks that acted as a breakwater at the edge of the lake. I jumped onto the stones and bent to recover it, and as I was at maximum bend, hand down to grab the paper, Jeff shouted "Snake!" I took the permit, straightened and chided him "That's not funny!" only to be told he wasn't joking. A flying leap put me back on the tarmac next to Jeff and turning to try to spot the snake twisting between the rocks. I missed it, but Jeff's description of a dark green unpatterned snake meant it had to be a Racer. On the bright side it also missed me.

There were white-headed gulls standing in the car park but out on the res there was a tern I wanted to check out, plus a hooded gull. Both were near the end of a breakwater or quay, so I set off down that to find that what I initially thought was a Laughing Gull was actually a Franklin's Gull (which made more sense given where we were). The tern had a bicoloured bill and orange legs and I was sure it was Forster's Tern though I subsequently took a look at a field guide to confirm it.

We used the car as a hide to check out the car park gulls, a mixture of Ring-billed and California. One of the Ring-billed Gulls, a first-winter, was absolutely massive and we had to give it a careful once-over to be quite sure of what we were looking at. The conclusion was that if it had been at Copperhouse Creek we would have called it a Ring-billed without a second thought, but its size compared to the adults around it was an education.

We added Killdeer and Spotted Sandpiper in flight and that was pretty much it. From there we drove to Denver airport, where after a couple of false starts even with Mildred's assistance we found our hotel for the night, offloaded the bags and booked in, before Jeff and Steve set off to divest us of the vehicle. We also discovered that if it hadn't been pitch dark when we arrived, we would definitely had Black-tailed Prairie Dog as our first mammal - they were all over the airport area!

We dined and rank in the hotel: we had to queue for a table but that was OK because we didn't have to queue for the bar....

Day 14 - Saturday

We got the bus to the airport and the plane from Denver (once it had been repaired - its never fun being delayed when you have to make a connection) to Charlotte in North Carolina. Even the grassed areas on Denver airport have prairie dogs.

It was a pretty smooth flight and for most of it I could see the ground, which was nice. The USA unrolled beside me, the Missouri obvious, most other places guesswork. At Charlotte we made our way to the gate for our onward flight to find it was overbooked. The airline was offering vouchers for anyone prepared to take their chances with a later flight. Maz and I just wanted to get home, but the boys decided to have a punt and we parted company there.

Day 15 - Sunday.

Hello Heathrow! Maz and I raced down to the luggage carousel, I grabbed our bags as they trundled round, and before very long we were in the pre-booked taxi and en route home. On arrival Maz decided that before we crashed out she would start the first lot of washing, unzipped both cases and:

"This isn't ours." And it wasn't: by some awful coincidence someone else out of the 290 people on the plane had exactly the same kind of case as us and I'd grabbed it without looking at the label. I rang the airport and they said bring it back, so it was into the car and back to LHR. We were met at the back door to Security, who thought it was really funny to ask: "Did you pack this yourself?" before falling about laughing.

They X-rayed the case and I had to show my passport before they whisked the bag away and escorted me round to the pile of unclaimed bags from the morning's flights. There were dozens!!!! What do people think coming off planes? Do they just forget they have bags? (Mind you, I've never understood those messages on RBA saying "scope and tripod left at (insert twitch here)", either.) Or perhaps they just grab someone else's....

Ours was, of course, there. Phew. I felt sorry for person sp. wandering Heathrow wondering what b*****d nicked their suitcase, but thankful they hadn't taken mine in a tit-for-tat mistake.

At this point I realised why I'd had my passport checked: my bag hadn't been through Customs so now I had to walk through the Green channel for the second time that day, whistling nonchalantly and wondering what the Customs guys would think if they recognised my distinctive form ambling past a second time - then realising with the number of unclaimed bags this must happen all the time!

It was with great relief that we returned home and once again walked up the path with a suitcase in tow, just as we had a couple of hours earlier. It was deja vu all over again.

John

PS: The boys' adventures were not quite over either, but since Steve is following this narrative I'll let him enlighten you!
 
Day 13 Pix

Nighthawk (actually this was at the golf club the previous evening)
Swainson's Hawk
Lark Bunting X 2
Loggerhead Shrike
 

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More:

Grasshopper sp
Grasshopper Sparrow
Western Meadowlark
Grasshopper Sparrow
Ferruginous Hawk
 

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And more:

Ferruginous Hawk
Left: Lark Bunting. Right: Brewer's Sparrow
Lark Sparrow
McCown's Longspur X 2
 

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To finish off the Pawnee Grasslands:

Western Meadowlark
Western Kingbird
Northern Harrier
Mourning Dove
Blue Grosbeak
 

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Onwards to Jackson Lake State Park:

Woodhouse's Toad
Franklin's Gull
Heavy Shower
Forster's Tern
California Gull
 

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Endex

Ring-billed Gull X 2
 

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