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Using flash on birds (1 Viewer)

gergrd

GREG
I don't normally use a flash with bird photos, primarily as most of my attempts have resulted in the ugly equivalent of "red-eye." I've also heard that it might upset the birds and I don't want to do that. However, now that winter is approaching and the light is not so good, I thought that I might give it a go once again. I have a Better Beamer and have read that some pro nature photographers use that device routinely. Does anyone have any advice on how to use flash with birds effectively?
 
From what I understand when it comes to disturbing wildlife with flash the rules are:

1) you always expect to get one shot and one shot only

2) you'll never know what they'll do till you flash them - their reaction is going to depend on the situation, the species and even the individual animal itself as to if they flee or pay no attention at all to you. That is why you stick to rule 1 until after the first shot - then you see if you get another chance ;)

As for the red eye the one tip I know is to raise your flash up higher - that is why you see those large Wemberly setups with the flash mounted above the arm on a higher arm so that its higher up than if it were in the camera hotshoe. With the change in the flash angle on the subject it reduces the chances of redeye effect.

And yes the better beamer is generally used once your into the 300mm or more focal lengths because of the rapid fall off of light power as distance increases.
 
A couple of questions for you. What focal length lens are you using? Do you have a flash that allow high speed sync? Having your flash on a bracket will resolve the red-eye, but if you use too much flash you can get "steel eye" which makes the pupil silver colored.

I use Canon equipment and have a Canon 580EXII flash. It allows me to set it to high speed sync and allow me to limit how much light it puts on a subject.

I use fill flash a lot and if used properly it can really enhance a photograph.

This image would not have been possible without fill flash:
http://www.naturepixels.com/g2/gall...ownloadItem&g2_itemId=19221&g2_serialNumber=2
 
I have used fill flash quite a lot over the past 10 years. The only time I've experienced an animal (bird or otherwise) disturbed by it was Superb Lyrebird in Australia which was startled by it every single time. All other subjects didn't react.

Thomas
 
I used to use flash a lot (though don’t much today) & have had the same experience in North America when photographing from blinds. The birds would often be spooked by shutter noise--particularly the first shot of a series--but seldom if ever by flash which they generally gave no indication of even being aware of.
 
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Red eye is very easy to remove in post processing. Just zoom in (WAY IN...like 400% or more) and darken the pupil. It can look like complete crap zoomed in, but will be ok at normal viewing magnification.
 
I have currently very limited experience with using a flash for bird photography.

From the few times I used it I got away with the following conclusions:
- there is a fine line between insufficient flash output and too much, in the first case the photos are to dark in the second they look unnatural
- TTL control kind of works, but I feel that most times one will have to put the breaks on the flash output to avoid crossing the line mentioned above
- some birds show no noticeable response to the flash firing, some pay briefly attention to it, others jumped and ran -what made me feel guilty
- a flash extender (i.e. better beamer) is useful if used as prescribed, still a flash on HS sync. will have very limited reach
- like everything it will take some time to learn proper flash use, I am nowhere near yet
 
I was sent an interesting article a while back about the effects of flash, thought i would share it here.


Flash Photography and the Visual System of Birds and Animals
Wednesday, March 31 2004

The use of artificial lighting to photograph animals is an area of controversy. To review this topic, a basic understanding of the retina is necessary.
BACKGROUND
The retina is comprised of rod cells for night and motion sensory information and cone cells for daylight and color vision. The ratio of rods and cones varies by species. Compared to mammals, birds have a greater number of cone cells allowing greater color perception and visual acuity in daylight. Nocturnal creatures, by comparison, have a greater rod-to-cone ratio which allows for better night vision.
In bright light, rod cells are bleached of rhodopsin, the photoreceptor pigment important for the translation of light energy into the electrical signals ultimately recognized by the occipital cortex of the brain. While the rods are inactive in bright light, the cone cells are responsible for translating light information into electrical signals. Going from bright to dark conditions, there is a period of dark adaptation required for the rod cells to “charge” and become functional. In nature, the change from light to dark is ordinarily gradual and the concurrent change from a cone driven electrical response to a signal originating primarily from rod cells occurs smoothly and without interruption of function.
PERMANENT DAMAGE
Phototoxic retinopathy, or permanent damage to retinal nerve cells as a result of light energy, has been studied in humans and other animals. Extreme unfiltered bright light, focused onto the retina through surgical microscope lenses has been documented to produce permanent retinal damage. To cause either microscopically evident or grossly visible lesions, the light must be held in focus on a single area of the retina for an extended period of time. This situation generally occurs in specialized surgery, when anesthetic agents prevent the movement of the eye. Operating microscopes for ophthalmology are now all equipped with specialized filters to prevent phototoxic retinopathy even with extended procedures.
Laser, by definition a highly focused beam of light energy, may produce retinal damage. In fact, in the treatment of diabetic retinopathy, retinal detachments and other diseases of the eye, laser is employed to purposefully burn selected areas of the retina. It is capable of doing this, even with very brief periods of exposure, because the light is highly focused. Therefore, when considering the possible damage to the retina by any light source, both its intensity and degree of focus must be assessed.
FLASH UNITS
Strobe lights used in on-camera flash units produce a very short duration burst of light, usually lasting only a small fraction of a second. Strobe lights are most often used at some distance from a subject and, even with flash extenders, the light is not focused, but diffused, upon reaching the subject. The inverse square law for light intensity indicates that the decay in light intensity occurs as the square of the distance from its source. Double the distance from the light source to the object and the object receives only one-quarter the intensity. In other words, the fall off in intensity is rapid as light leaves the strobe. Even at the source, the translucent plastic cover overlaying the flash element diffuses the light immediately.
For more than 20 years, researchers and clinicians have used the ERG test (electroretinogram) to study function and diseases of the retina. This test involves using a strobe light stimulator to record electrical signals originating from the rods and cones. Protocols vary by testing laboratories. The rod cells are usually tested by first dark-adapting the subject, i.e., placing the subject in a dark room from 5-20 minutes, and then subjecting the retina to a dim flash of light. The light is increased to full power and then flickered at 40Hz to isolate the cone cells for testing. The stimulator or strobe light is generally positioned within a few centimeters of the cornea for testing. Grass stimulator units produce diffuse light like a camera strobe, but of much greater intensity. For cone testing, the full power flash is flickered 40 times per second for several seconds in duration. Although the light is intense and positioned close to the subject, it is not highly focused and, consequently, does not permanently damage the retina.
EFFECTS OF FLASH
Nature photography subjects may be startled by a sudden unexpected burst of light; some may depart because of it, others may continue what they were doing and may not even appear reactive to subsequent use of flash. Light intensity, degree of focus, and ambient light are all factors when considering possible impact on visual acuity.
Fill-flash involves the balance of ambient and artificial lighting. In situations when fill-flash is used, cone cells are active, and they are designed to work in all but dim light. Because of this, the use of fill-flash on animals and birds is not likely to have any effect on their visual systems. Cone cells do not bleach to a nonfunctional state in bright light as the rod cells do.
Flash as main light in dim light conditions can produce a temporary reduction in vision but not permanent damage.
In total darkness, use of flash may cause a temporary reduction in vision for 5-20 minutes. It takes one hour of dark conditioning to achieve maximum electrical responses from rod cells in the retina. The regeneration of rod function even after "bleaching" by a bright light is not linear with time. Animals and birds probably have 50% return of function in the first five minutes, and 75% in another five minutes. The rods are rapidly moving from zero function to full sensitivity during that time, with the greatest return of function per time unit occurring in the first 10-15 minutes.
Because of the initial impairment of vision from flash in total darkness, repeated flash of birds or animals in this situation is not advocated. Ethical nature photographers avoid altering their subject’s behavior. The judicious use of flash in completely dark situations causing a brief vision alteration must be offset by the educational value of the photograph made. Technically excellent pictures of owls and other animals in their natural environment made at night with flash may, in the end, benefit the species as a result of increased public awareness. In select situations, the use of flash may be justified. Many nocturnal species rely upon other senses in combination with vision during dim or dark conditions; for example, the auditory capabilities of owls at night are probably far more important for hunting as compared with the visual sense.
SUMMARY
In summary, to produce phototoxic retinopathy, or permanent damage, a focused intense light must be held in one location on the retina for a time several magnitudes greater than the duration of a camera flash. Fill-flash is not likely to have any effect on visual systems; flash as main light in dim light conditions may produce a temporary reduction in vision but not permanent damage. Flash on nocturnal subjects during nighttime should be used sparingly due to brief impairment of vision.
Flash does not cause permanent damage to the eyes of animals or people, even at close range. The eye is developed to handle bright light, such as the sun. This is the reason the rod cells "turn off" in bright light. Flash is diffused light when it reaches the subject. Only very highly focused light, like looking at the sun through your telephoto, or laser application, would be expected to cause permanent retinal damage.
Hypothetically, if scientific information indicated that flash photography, under normal use, produced permanent retinal damage, it would trigger additional rules and regulations. Flash would not be allowed in making human portraits, strobe units would be banned from theatres and dance halls, children would not be allowed to handle cameras and flash units and their instruction manuals would carry warning labels.
Cell phone and radio towers, feral animals, air and water pollution, automobiles, and habitat reduction may be issues of much greater importance confronting bird and animal subjects than any temporary vision changes associated with the use of flash in dim or dark light. By limiting our nighttime use of flash and using fill-flash primarily to enhance ambient light photography, we hope to produce images of animal and bird subjects that will increase public awareness and appreciation of nature subjects. By calling attention to the importance of maintaining a diverse population of birds and animals on this planet, we may ultimately be able to improve the survival and quality of life of the subjects photographed.

Dennis Olivero obtained his DVM degree from the University of Minnesota where he also did an internship in small animal medicine and surgery. A comparative ophthalmology residency was completed at North Carolina State University, followed by a post doctorate NIH fellowship at the University of Minnesota College of Medicine. Dennis Olivero is a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists and has served as staff veterinary ophthalmologist at two veterinary colleges and two private specialty practices. He has research publications in both the veterinary and human medical field.
Donald Cohen obtained his doctorate in medicine at State University of New York in Buffalo and went on to a flexible internship at Mercy Hospital in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. He completed his ophthalmology specialty training at Pittsburgh Eye and Ear and has been practicing ophthalmology for twenty years in his clinic in Mooresville, North Carolina.
Dr. Olivero’s interest in photography dates back to a trip to Africa in 1978; to see his images please visit his website at http://www.northernlightnaturephotography.com. Dr. Cohen’s passion for photography goes back as far as thirty years; to see his images please visit his website at http://www.dlcphotography.net.

if you read all that, congrats ;)
 
I don't normally use a flash with bird photos, primarily as most of my attempts have resulted in the ugly equivalent of "red-eye." I've also heard that it might upset the birds and I don't want to do that. However, now that winter is approaching and the light is not so good, I thought that I might give it a go once again. I have a Better Beamer and have read that some pro nature photographers use that device routinely. Does anyone have any advice on how to use flash with birds effectively?

I use balanced fill flash with a better beamer and besides allowing a higher shutter speed , the amount of flash used is lessened, therefore leading to the bird not being upset.
I use a 600mm f4 Nikon with Wimberley head and flash extender bracket to get the flash away from the lens axis which solves the red/silver/green eye. Above the lens is usually best as it throws the shadow downwards and replicates sunlight angles. With an SB800 flash doing it's preflash magic the fill flash is superb. I use flash sync up to 1/8000 sec (yes really on Nikons) on a D3 camera and the system really does get the fill flash/daylight balance correct.
As the better beamer uses less flash power, the gun recycles faster and you can usually get three or so shots/sec with flash before it has to recycle. I need to set the zoom on the gun to 50mm to get the best focus of the flash beam.
You do have to be careful not to use flash on certain birds who are upset by it, especially in winter when they are trying to get food. Low light levels or in woods tends to make the bird's pupil sdilate more and then the bird can be more susceptible to flash. Just use common sense.
 
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Thanks for all the feedback on this subject. It appears that much of the answer is similar to using flash with human subjects, get the flash off the camera and moderate the flash output.
 
My method is to make the flash look as natural as possible by exposing for the shot without the flash and just using it to fill in the colours and shadows (see Pied Flycatcher pic).Sometimes though,especially in the woods,the flash will be your main light source and seeing that flash has been used is unavoidable.I set the shutter speed as slow as I can manage and take it from there (see Brambling shot).
Hope this helps,Mike.
 

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if you read all that, congrats ;)

Me too:eek!:, but very informative, thanks for sharing.

Being forced to use a cheap(comparatively) P&S, and shamefully being relatively ignorant to all the technicalities involved in taking really good photos, I depend on mostly auto shooting & the flash pops up unexpectedly at times. It's good to know I'm not causing any permanent retinal damage to our wonderful friends! o:)

And this is the really important part:
Cell phone and radio towers, feral animals, air and water pollution, automobiles, and habitat reduction may be issues of much greater importance confronting bird and animal subjects than any temporary vision changes associated with the use of flash in dim or dark light. By limiting our nighttime use of flash and using fill-flash primarily to enhance ambient light photography, we hope to produce images of animal and bird subjects that will increase public awareness and appreciation of nature subjects. By calling attention to the importance of maintaining a diverse population of birds and animals on this planet, we may ultimately be able to improve the survival and quality of life of the subjects photographed.
 
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HSS for fill flash handheld?

A similar question:

I am searching for a flash for fill flash photos of birds with a 400/5.6 handheld or with monopod. Am I right that I should look for a flash with Hi Speed Sync (HSS) to avoid motion blur, getting shutter speeds less 1/250s (sync speed of my EOS 40D) respectively?

Can you recommend a flash cheaper than Canon's 580ex II?
 
I have been thinking about using off-camera flash from a hide with a perch...
I found a really good visual guide (it is translated from spanish!)

it seems to work well, as the flash is generally at 45 degrees to the eye of the bird
but I have to buy a new lens first!
 
the spanish link is great not just for flash, but many other close photography techniques as well, hides, perches, watering holes etc etc. great resource given there wrogers.
 
ive a pair of binos 8x42 if i look at a subject from 8 yards the image is nice and clear,if i take a photo with my zoom compact at 16+ which is equifilent to 8x,the image comes out rubbish,how is this,why cant they both be nice and sharp.mind you i am a proper amatuer,cheers
 
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