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Skywatcher 80ED and Nikon D5000...advice needed (1 Viewer)

M

Marcobf

Well-known member
Hi, I've ended up here after reading many, many threads and articles all over the net on digiscoping

It's been really inspiring looking at photos by some talented people using the Skywatcher 80ED and I've decided this is the route I'd like to take too. I was given a Nikon D5000 for Christmas and will buy the scope shortly

What I'd really appreciate is some relatively simple guidance on the other parts needed to connect up the scope and camera and any other essential gear I'll need - recommendations and maybe some heads up on common pitfalls

I don't have lots of money to waste in experimenting right now - in fact I'll be selling beloved guitars to fund this new interest so your guidance will really be appreciated

Thanks

Marco
 
To get up and running you only need a couple of parts to connect the camera to the scope.

First one is the Max DSLR which can be found by clicking here. Buy the one in Nikon mount.

On the same website you can get the 50mm extension tube that goes in the back of the scope and this allows you to reach focus correctly. Click here and scroll down the page and about 3/4 of the way down you will see a section called 'Eyepiece adaptors'. In that section look for the Antares 2" extension tube. There's only one left so in case it has gone you can try these links here, here, here and here.

I'd get a cable release for triggering the shutter remotely and this will minimise vibration.

Do you have a tripod? If not then that is something else to consider. Also the scope is balance to suit eyepieces where as the camera is heavier it will mean the balance is a fair bit off and the scope will be back heavy. If you find the scope easy to use and want to keep it then it's worth moving the tripod mount to make it better balanced. It's a simple 10 minute job but see how you get on with it first.

Finally you need to be good at manual focusing. If you have good eyesight and can focus a manual lens consistently well then the scope wont be a problem.

Paul.
 
Thanks very much Paul - it's the shots conjured up you, DiegoBE and fernandobatista that have inspired me to follow this route.

If I wanted to put a teleconverter in for more reach where would it go and which one would you recommend?

Do you think I will have any issues with the Nikon D5000 as opposed to the canon 450d that several people seem to be using?

I don't have a decent tripod, just a very light-weight, non-pro one. Could you recommend a fairly solid one that won't break the bank?

Cheers

Marco
 
The teleconverter would go on the camera first, followed by the Max DSLR.

As for which ones to go for, I like the Kenko Pro range but if these are too expensive then I'd look for a good used Nikon TC-200 or maybe a Sigma Apo 2X on ebay. I think if I had a Nikon I'd probably get the TC-200 first. The TC-200 is a 2X teleconverter and they did a TC-14B which is a 1.4X for longer focal lengths (TC-14A was for shorter focal lengths) and also a TC-300 which is a 3X version.

The Nikon D5000 should be fine, from what I read in reviews image quality is good.

I still use an old Jessops lightweight tripod which you can see in my digiscope gallery, click on link at the bottom of all my posts. If your's is a really lightweight one then I'd look for a second hand Manfrotto or something similar.

A good place I've used before are on the link below and they carry a good selection of used equipment. They have TC-200 for £49 plus also a lot of used tripods and heads. Never having owned a Nikon I can't say how good the TC-200 is on the scope. Photos I've seen taken with it and conventional lenses have been very good though which means it should very well with the scope.

https://secure.ffordes.com/index.htm

Paul.
 
Right, well I've picked up the MAX DSLR and Antares extension from SnS, just got to order the Skywatcher from Germany. I'll see how that goes first and worry about TC's later

I did see the TC-200 at ffordes, but I'm not exactly sure what E+ means in terms of the optical quality. When they say signs of use are they referring just to cosmetic condition?

I don't think my tripod will be any use whatsoever, but when I looked at the manfrotto tripods/heads at ffordes I was totally bewildered - what the hell do all the model numbers mean? I may as well try ordering in mandarin and see what arrives :eek!:
 
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Exc+ will have no scratches / fungus / dust within the optics. There may be some cosmetic signs thats its been used, thats all
You should be ok with Exc+

Look at tripods within the budget you have to spend, and then post which models you are looking at, and we'll see if they're any good.

If you decide on head/tripod all in one, the head will need to take a weight of the scope plus camera, with a bit to spare.

I suggest a pan & tilt head rather than a ball head. I've had both and various models, and IMO, the P&T beats a ball head for birdng
 
I'll ask my dad which Manfrotto he has as I've tried my scope on it in the past and been impressed with how sturdy it was, it held the scope very well. It wasn't an expensive one either at around £120 new so it will be a starting point.

Paul.
 
After an initial search around ebay these two look good

Manfrotto 055PROB (solid, holds 7kg) and
MANFROTTO 804RC2 BASIC PAN TILT HEAD W/QCK LOCK

(Possibly 190XPROB too)

Any thoughts?
 
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The numbers I recognize. I'm 90% certain my dad has the 804RC2 head. I gave him a ring just now but he was out. He has the Pro tripod too but not sure if it's the 55 or 190 but 55 rings a bell.

Paul.
 
Thanks Paul - I'm looking at that head and both sets of legs - see what deals come up
Do I need any other accessories with the tripod?

Also would the kenko Pro 2x be preferable to the nikon Tc-200?
(You and other seem to prefer the kenko 1.4x - any comment?)

I've also see you talk about Barlows - could you just say a little about why you use these and combine them with the Kenko 1.4?

Same question about DOI converters...

Then I'll leave you alone for 5 minutes |:x|
 
I used to have a Manfrotto Pro Art 144 tripod. If you find one, grab it. Its very sturdy - think i paid about £50 used.
 
Just found NEW GIOTTOS MTL9251B DSLR TRIPOD KIT MH5011 3 WAY HEAD, for £79 which according to shop which sells Giottos and Manfrotto, is equivalent of MANFROTTO 190XPROB and 804RC2
 
Marcobf said:
Thanks Paul - I'm looking at that head and both sets of legs - see what deals come up
Do I need any other accessories with the tripod?

Also would the kenko Pro 2x be preferable to the nikon Tc-200?
(You and other seem to prefer the kenko 1.4x - any comment?)

I've also see you talk about Barlows - could you just say a little about why you use these and combine them with the Kenko 1.4?

Same question about DOI converters...

Then I'll leave you alone for 5 minutes |:x|
Click to expand...

You shouldn't need any other accessories with the tripod.

The Kenko Pro 2X would work fine. Doubt you would see much difference between the two on the scope to be honest. The DOI HQ7 is a cheaper option and they did make them in Nikon mount. They don't turn up anywhere near as frequently as the Pentax, Olympus and Canon FD ones on ebay though. I tend to buy those versions and just modify them to suit my Canon EOS mount but it just depends how handy you are at doing stuff like that. The DOI HQ7 is very close to the Kenko 2X in performance.

Barlows are generally more hassle than it's worth in trying to get them to perform as well as a teleconverter. They aren't anywhere near as contrasty as a good teleconverter and they need a lot of coaxing to get them to perform at a good level. At close range though, say under 20m I think they are a little sharper than a comparable strength teleconverter. It's one of those things I like to experiment with but if you want something that will work first time then get a teleconverter.

Paul.
 
Thanks very much - things are becoming much clearer. I'm all set to go now [reaches for the plastic] Really appreciate all the help and advice from yourself and musoman.

Cheers

Marco
 
Hi again. Well my Skywatcher has arrived and I also have the MaxDSLR and the Antares ext tube, but I've stalled at the first hurdle so far - mounting the SW securely on the Giottos.

There is only one screw in the quick release plate and when screwed into the rear hole on the SW bracket the Scope can just turn on the screw's axis. There is a sprung pin on the quick-release plate but no hole for it to locate in (same is true of the underside of my D5000 actually)

So things are really unstable and I'm worried about even leaving the SW on the tripod on it's own, much less with the Nikon hanging off the end. I could really do with some help - Paul you spoke about modifying the SW's bracket in some way too I remember

The model of the Giottos is the MTL92 and the head is the 5011
http://www.rgb-photo.co.uk/photo-acc...head-kit-p2638

There is a slightly sturdier 5001 head available, but everything still relies on the single screw unless I've totally misunderstood

Cheers

Marco
 
Click on this link and look at the photo in the 2nd post. It shows how I have modified my scope. I removed the scope rings from the big balance rail and then mounted that rail direct to the scope in a place that gives near perfect balance. There's still no hole for the pin to go in that you mentioned but you could easily drill your own I suppose.

There's three chrome screws that hold the focuser to the main tube. Remove them and the focuser comes away. Then put the rail where you need to be and mark where the holes would go. Drill and fix the rail on, I think I used the nuts and bolts that previously held the rings on. Then put the focuser back on. About a 15 minute job. Alternatively you could just relocate the small metal tripod mount that was originally on the scope. Plus drill it to suit the pin.

http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=158669&page=3

Paul.
 
Nervous about taking the SW straight out of it's box and butchering it :eek!:
Did you mod yours and put that tape on immediately?
What was the reason you didn't use the mount left on the rings? Did you just not like the rings? The reason I ask is that I checked your photo of your mod and on my SW put the rings back as far as they would go and the mount ends up pretty much where yours is

As far as finding a balance point when the camera is attached, don't know how you settled on one with so many variables - how far the focus tube is extended, what extension tubes you're using, TC's, MAXDSLR - or does it just not matter that much?

Thanks for your instructions - at the moment I'm inclined to use the mount on the rings, pushed as far back as possible and just drill one extra hole in the mount for the sprung pin to keep the scope from turning

Cheers

Marco
 
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