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Ghana Ashanti lead birding trip 18th February to 6th March (1 Viewer)

tittletattler

Well-known member
Hi all,

If anyone is looking to plan a trip early in the New Year, I would thoroughly recommend an Ashanti lead tour in Ghana. Ashanti also help all or nearly all the big tour companies. Their guides, especially James Ntakor, are exceptional :t:

I'll post the trip details and some photos over the Xmas period. For starters, here are some basic details about the accommodation used, itinerary etc.

Flights and travel.

We paid £417 each for our return flights with KLM which included an hour’s flight to Schiphol from Heathrow and then a seven hour flight to Accra. The return flight from Schiphol took us to London City Airport.
We each paid Ashanti African Tours £2,200 for all services including travel, entrance fees to National Parks, food and bottled water as well as all accommodation.

The two of us were driven around Ghana in a sturdy air-conditioned Toyota 4x4 which was very comfortable. At Ankasa, Ashanti provided a Landrover for driving along the forest track. This was especially necessary for navigating around fallen trees. We were accompanied by our guide, James Ntakor, and our driver Jo Jo. Both were exceptional and I doubt that there could be a better guide in Ghana than James.

Accommodation.

All of the accommodation had, at the very least, clean, insect proof bedrooms with a ceiling fan and an en-suite bathroom. Bobiri didn’t have a ceiling fan and the ceiling fan at Frenchman’s guesthouse in Ankasa was dangerous but both sites had portable fans too. Note that Ashanti are building accommodation at Ankasa.

Normal Ashanti organised tours with the major bird tour companies will provide much better accommodation with air-conditioning, wi-fi etc but this will cost roughly five times as much per night so $50 dollars per room rather than $10 and will require a drive to the forest/reserve each morning of up to thirty minutes. The advantage of staying in the forest in the more basic accommodation is that you don’t have to travel so you get up in the morning and can walk straight into some of the reserves. This is also better for night birds and mammals. I benefitted hugely at Kakum, Ankasa and Bobiri by being able to plug my 20w Wemlite bulb into the mains sockets handily situated on the outside of the accommodation and the moths attracted as a result were amazing.

The rooms by the gate entrance at Kakum don’t seem to be advertised on line and the same seems to be true of the accommodation inside Bobiri. As such, if you did this trip independently, you might still need to use Ashanti as ground agents in order to book this accommodation.
As my companion doesn’t like to share a room, it cost us more to have a room each at all sites so this increased the total cost considerably even though it was a budget trip. My companion also struggled with the heat and Ashanti very kindly upgraded our accommodation free of charge on two occasions so that he could benefit from having an air-conditioned room. Upon reflection, this is probably the ideal way to do the trip. With proper planning, I would recommend booking a budget trip with Ashanti for 4-6 people, staying in the budget accommodation at each site but also having a couple of stays in air-conditioned hotels at appropriate points during the trip. This should cost considerably less than booking via one of the major tour companies.

Money.

About five Ghanain cedis to the Pound. I changed up £100 at the kiosk just inside the airport exit upon arrival. I spent just £40 on beer and soft drinks in the entire two weeks.

Food & Drink

Breakfast, lunch & dinner were included in the tour price but note that restaurant meals cost about £5, more or less. ‘Red Red’ with rice was good but I found that Chicken sauce and rice to be ideal as it varied between being a curry to being a pasta sauce to being a Spanish sauce which meant it was different (and very tasty) everywhere. I didn’t try the ‘condom’ chicken at the first guest house. Beer costs about five cedis for 600ml bottles (‘Club’ was my favourite) and soft drinks were between 2.5 cedis and 5 cedis.

Itinerary

18th Feb – London to Amsterdam and then on to Accra.
19th Feb – Shai Hills & Wineba Plains
20th Feb – Kakum NP
21st Feb – Antikwa, Kakum area
22nd Feb – Abrufo Road & Forest, Kakum area
23rd Feb - International Stingless Bees Centre (!), Kakum & Nsuta Forest
24th Feb – Nsuta Forest
25th Feb – Ankasa
26th Feb – Ankasa
27th Feb – Ankasa & Cape Coast
28th Feb – Abrufo & Picathartes
1st Mar – Bobiri
2nd Mar – Offinso
3rd Mar – Atewa farm/bush
4th Mar – Atewa ridge
5th Mar – farm/bush nr Atewa
 
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Sites visited

Shai Hills is an area of savannah not too far from Accra. Wineba Plains is subtly different to Shai Hills and is an area of grassland with scrub although a solar farm has now been built on part of the site and it has been fenced off. Kakum NP is a protected area of forest with a canopy walk. Antikwa, Abrufo etc are areas of degraded and heavily hunted forest surrounded by farmland with pockets of scrub that hold many birds. Nsuta was also degraded forest alive with the sound of chainsaw. Ankasa is a NP in the extreme SW. Bobiri is an old colonial ex-butterfly farm site where the remnant forest is so degraded that savannah species are now evident. Offinso is severely degraded forest and Atewa is decent forest atop a ridge with birdy bits below in farm/scrub. Sites such as Atewa and Nsuta would be difficult to find without a guide. We did not head north to Mole NP as we decided to concentrate on the South. This also kept the cost and travel time down. Overall, we did exceptionally well at all sites.

Equipment

I used: Swarovski Binoculars, Kowa telescope, Manfrottro tripod, Canon 7D II and 300mm f4 lens and 1.4 converter. My 400mm DO would have been too heavy, I reckon, and would have impeded my birding. The converter was not needed in retrospect and the images taken with it were inferior to cropped images taken with just the 300mm lens. I used a Fenix torch with four power settings (essential; cost £90 with two 188650 rechargeable batteries), Wemlite 20w bulb and cable (no ballast etc needed) for moths. A power surge adaptor would have been useful and the bulb would then have lasted more than eight days.

Upper Guinea endemics

Tour companies will state that you have a chance of seeing a number of birds which alas are only very rarely on show including Nimba Flycatcher and White-breasted Guineafowl. You won’t see Rufous Fishing Owl! But with an excellent guide such as James, you should see Brown-cheeked Hornbill, Green-tailed Bristlebill, Yellow-bearded Greenbul, Rufous-winged Illadopsis, White-necked Picathartes, Sharpe’s Apalis and Copper-tailed Starling.

18th Feb Day 1

Flight delayed due to fog at Amsterdam and ours flights, including our connecting flight to Accra, were put back by a little over an hour and a half. KLM were very good and once again I would highly rate their service. We arrived in Accra at 10.30pm and after another hour, we were through customs, picking up our bags, then meeting our guide James Ntakor from Ashanti African Tours.

We changed up £100 into Ghanan Cedis before we were escorted to our large 7 seater vehicle.

We drove to our guesthouse, Preda Guest House, which was basic but clean with air conditioning and a fridge. I reassembled my tripod, had a shower and then slept for five hours.

19th Feb Day 2

Shai Hlls

Up at 5 am and then showered, breakfasted and out the door by 6 am. Our budget guesthouse was conveniently only 15 minutes from Shai Hills reserve and so we were on site for a little after dawn with Common Bulbul, Pied Crow and Laughing Dove seen on the way and Grey Headed Sparrow heard during breakfast.

We left the vehicle at the entrance gate and started to walk in on the track that heads left off of the main track. First up were two Senegal Parrots and two African Thrushes in a small fruiting tree. A male Splendid Sunbird was the first of many. Yellow-billed Kites drifted over and a Slender Mongoose watched us as we watched it on the track. We enjoyed scope views of our first of several Yellow-fronted Tinkerbirds, a family party of Black-capped Babblers, Grey-backed Camaropteras, Black-billed Wood Doves, a single Senegal Coucal, a brightly coloured Gonolek, Northern Crombec, Lizard Buzzard, Vieillot’s Barbet, a few Senegal Eremomela, a single colourful Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, several Olive Baboon, Black Scimitar-bill (Wood Hoopoe), Shikra, a female Copper Sunbird and a male Northern Puffback. We stopped to tape lure Grey-headed Bristle-bill and as we watched them in the thicket, five Violet Turacos flew noisily over. We carried on walking noting Spotted and a couple of Pied Flycatchers as we continued. We were also stopping to note and photograph the butterflies as well as several Crimson Speckled Moth. The birds kept coming and included Short-winged Cisticola, the even more striking Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird until we reached a steep cliff face on our right. James quickly picked out a Rock Martin and a Mocking Cliff Chat. A couple of Callithrix Monkeys were also on the boulders. In the trees at the bottom of the slope we found Northern Black Flycatcher, Bearded Barbet and Lead Coloured Flycatchers. A few yards further up, we reached a bend in the road witch had thicket either side and small boulders on the ground. A quick blast with the tape produced two Stone Partridge which peered down the small slope at us moving their heads from side to side. The first of number of African Grey Hornbill appeared in a tree and a party of three Rosy Bee-eater flew over. The next thicket speciality was Oriole Warbler which was an odd looking beast resembling a large babbler perhaps with a funny baggy grey head but striking yellow underparts. A White-shouldered Black-Tit showed briefly from the car as did Croaking Cisticola, African Cuckoo Hawk and a male Kob a couple of hundred yards away from a dozen or so doe. A Helmeted Guinea Fowl dashed through the savannah grass and a stop for more Stone Partridge produced Guinea Fowl Butterflies and a male Greater Honeyguide. As we got back in the car, James picked out a Blue-bellied Roller and I picked out an Eagle with brown underparts and a small head which James identified as Wahlberg’s. As we drove to our last stop, we saw a Fork-tailed Drongo. Good views were had as we left the car of several Double-spurred Francolin as they fed under the thicket canopy and amongst the small boulders. A fruiting tree held many of the birds that we’d already seen today and we also had another gang of Violet Turacos. Barn Swallows, African Palm Swifts and Cattle Egrets made up the numbers.

Wineba Plains

After over two hours of driving after lunch, we reached the Wineba Plains. Yellow-billed Shrike was of note during the journey. The savannah has now been fenced off and partly turned into a solar farm. But it’s still easy to walk along the road and look in and we easily saw two African Wattled Lapwings, Black-winged Bishop (winter plumage), Little Swift, male Whinchat and African Palm Swifts. A movement along the fence caught my eye next to us and I quickly realised it was Black-bellied Bustard! As soon as I scoped it, it flew, but it did circle back round and leisurely deep-beated its wings until it dropped down. Incredibly, another male flew up and displayed a little further along. James lured in a Red-winged Warbler (Prinia) and immediately afterwards two superb Mottled Swift bulleted past. Several White-throated Bee-eater were seen along with a Black-necked Weaver. A deep guttural noise had us looking upwards where we saw two African Hobby working in tandem to try to catch an African Palm Swift. After much avian aerobatics, they failed. Several yellow lesser coverted winter plumaged Yellow-mantled Widowbirds showed well and a Grass Mannikin showed briefly as a male Marsh Harrier flew over. James lured out a Sulphur Breasted Bush Shike which was a stunner. A couple of Western Plaintain Eater showed well before we got back in the car and continued our long journey towards Kakum. Two Yellow-billed Shrikes were seen as we drove out along with another Whinchat and a flock of 50+ Grass Mannikins.

Birds seen on route included three Fiscal Shrikes together, a couple of African Pied Hornbill and the first Palm Nut Vulture. We passed the Ashanti Offices in the Gold Coast before eating a decent chicken curry at the Rain Forest Lodge. Then on to our board for the next few nights just inside the park entrance at Kakum. The Wemlite proved good for moths as well as the predators that feed on the moths.....
 
Some images from Shai Hills
 

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If anyone is looking to plan a trip early in the New Year, I would thoroughly recommend an Ashanti lead tour in Ghana. Ashanti also help all or nearly all the big tour companies. Their guides, especially James Ntakor, are exceptional :t:

Sorry, but if you're going to make a blanket statement like that, I need to chime in with my experience. I had a 16 day tour with them and one of their guides, Victor Owusu, a couple years ago. We saw a lot of birds and all the principal targets. However, I would not bird with Victor again. While competent, he did not have a laser pointer, and was reluctant to use one once he was provided with one, so a number of birds were only seen by part of the group. He was also disinterested in trying to manage the group, and basically let everyone do whatever they wanted--regardless of how it impacted other members. There were other issues as well. I believe most who tour with Ashanti have good experiences, but just want to provide a complete picture of what it may be like.
 
I did a private trip using Ashanti with three friends a few years ago. Similar experience to what 'tittletattler' describes - very good. Our main guide was William Aprahu, assisted by Paul Mensah who has now become a top guide in his own right. We used accommodation probably a bit more expensive than described here, but nothing over the top and all quite OK, the most basic being in the town near Ankasa - but there was a very local sunbird in the garden.
Thoroughly recommend the company, but I feel for the original guide Robert Ntakor who for some reason split off from Ashanti.

Steve
 
While competent, he did not have a laser pointer, and was reluctant to use one once he was provided with one, so a number of birds were only seen by part of the group.

Guides use a laser pointer to point out birds? Is this normal? Doesn't it cause disturbance?
 
Guides use a laser pointer to point out birds? Is this normal? Doesn't it cause disturbance?

Standard practice with every commercial tour group I've been on over the last six years (which number about 12, except the Ghana trip). Much better than using long, confusing descriptions to point out the location of a bird that may be hundreds of feet away in dense rainforest cover. Since generally you can't move on until everyone in the group has seen the bird, it's also a great benefit to everyone in the group--whether you've already seen the bird or not--because the group will move much faster.

There's no significant disturbance because you don't put the light on the bird itself; just in the vicinity.
 
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Gives the punters more ticks per buck (which is apparently what it's all about these days ;)).

Or maybe just helps insure that somebody whose spent thousands of dollars/euros, and traveled thousands of miles, just to see a special bird in its native surroundings, actually sees the bird.
 
Looking forward to this report, I'm tossing around the idea of a trip to Ghana sometime in the next couple years.

My wife lived in Ghana for several years, her focus wasn't birding, but she loved the people and country. We hope to visit together once retired.
 
Sorry, but if you're going to make a blanket statement like that, I need to chime in with my experience. I had a 16 day tour with them and one of their guides, Victor Owusu, a couple years ago. We saw a lot of birds and all the principal targets. However, I would not bird with Victor again. While competent, he did not have a laser pointer, and was reluctant to use one once he was provided with one, so a number of birds were only seen by part of the group. He was also disinterested in trying to manage the group, and basically let everyone do whatever they wanted--regardless of how it impacted other members. There were other issues as well. I believe most who tour with Ashanti have good experiences, but just want to provide a complete picture of what it may be like.

Since individual guides are being discussed here, I also feel I should chime in with my experience. I birded in Ghana in 2010 with Ashanti setting up the trip for us, and with both William Apraku and James Ntakor as our guides. Both were excellent - both in terms of their birding skills and people skills - and I would not hesitate to travel with them again. James was the junior guide and I believe this was one of his first tours, but you could tell he had all the makings of a superlative guide, and I understand he is now widely acknowledged as such. William was also excellent - skilled, patient, and enthusiastic - so I feel it is only fair to remark on our positive experience here.

IMPORTANT EDIT: I realized I got some names mixed up and our other guide besides James was William Apraku, and not Victor Owusu, so while my comments about Ashanti in general still apply, I can't say anything about Victor as a guide
 
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In defense of Victor

Sorry, but if you're going to make a blanket statement like that, I need to chime in with my experience. I had a 16 day tour with them and one of their guides, Victor Owusu, a couple years ago. We saw a lot of birds and all the principal targets. However, I would not bird with Victor again. While competent, he did not have a laser pointer, and was reluctant to use one once he was provided with one, so a number of birds were only seen by part of the group.

We went with Ashanti and Victor a couple of years ago and found him better than just competent.
He worked really hard knew the calls and was good on directions for getting us on the bird even in poor lighting. While a laser pointer can be a useful aid I have found that difference in height / angle can still make a bird difficult to find particularly if you are in in a bigger group. I would personally rather have a good birder who can give directions than someone who just relies on us following a pointer.

( our experience with Victor is attached)
 

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Looking forward to this..

Hi all,



Itinerary

18th Feb – London to Amsterdam and then on to Accra.
19th Feb – Shai Hills & Wineba Plains
20th Feb – Kakum NP
21st Feb – Antikwa, Kakum area
22nd Feb – Abrufo Road & Forest, Kakum area
23rd Feb - International Stingless Bees Centre (!), Kakum & Nsuta Forest
24th Feb – Nsuta Forest
25th Feb – Ankasa
26th Feb – Ankasa
27th Feb – Ankasa & Cape Coast
28th Feb – Abrufo & Picathartes
1st Mar – Bobiri
2nd Mar – Offinso
3rd Mar – Atewa farm/bush
4th Mar – Atewa ridge
5th Mar – farm/bush nr Atewa

Very similar itinerary to one we did with Ashanti and Victor
 
better late than never! Here's the rest of the trip report....

20th Feb Day 3

Kakum NP

The accommodation may be basic, but the advantage is that the walk to the canopy walk way is ten minutes only. So we were up at 5.am and eating breakfast at 5.30am. A short walk into the forest and we were on the canopy walkway and at the first stop. It was misty and it took an hour or more before it started to clear and the birds became active. Once they did, plenty of birds were seen with many seen well through my scope.
Birds seen as follows; White-throated Bee-eater 30+, a pair of the infrequently seen Upper Guinea endemic Violet-backed Hyliota (bird of the day per James), a close juvenile Collared Sunbird plus colourful males seen later, three Red Fronted Parrot flew over, a Johanna’s Sunbird followed by several Superb Sunbird, a few African Pied Hornbills, a very yellow female Purple Throated Cuckoo Shrike, a noisy group of Fire Bellied Woodpeckers that came back and forth, a pair of very attractive Yellow-mantled Weaver that were seen frequently finding nesting material, several smaller Melancholy Woodpecker, the very small Little Green Sunbird, then another shy Upper Guinea endemic, the Copper-tailed Glossy Starling which had a lovely indigo sheen and pale eye, White-breasted Nigrita, then our third Upper Guinea endemic, Sharpe’s Apalis, the ridiculously small Yellow-bellied Crombec, female Buff-throated Sunbird, the martin-like Ussher’s Flycatcher, a couple of superb Cassin’s Spinetail flew in and then hawked above us for over an hour, Black-winged Oriole, a noisy group of Spotted Greenbul showing the characteristic white spots in the wing, a Dollarbird-like Blue-throated Roller, Yellowbill (Malkoha) unobtrusively moving about the ivy on a close tree, Golden Greenbul, a large and long-billed Blue-throated Brown Sunbird, Velvet Mantled Drongo, Speckled Tinkerbird, drab looking but splendid sounding Cameroon Sombre Greenbul, a pied male Sabine’s Puffback, the recently split West African Wattle-eye, Honeyguide Greenbul so named due to its white outer tail feathers, Red-tailed Greenbul of the race that doesn’t have a red tail, Grey Longbill (much paler brown than shown in the book), the first of a trio of black and red Malimbe’s; Crested, the small Icterine Greenbul, Blue-billed Malimbe, the warbler-like and straight billed Fraser’s Sunbird, Green Hylia, Red-headed Malimbe, Hairy Breasted Barbet, Lesser Striped Swallow, Fanti Saw-wing and Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird. Phew. We walked back along the canopy walkway and rested before walking back to the café area. We enjoyed some lovely butterflies on the way back and several grasshoppers and lizards including the numerous and approachable Agami Lizard. An African Pied Wagtail fed around the café.

Mammals; Green and Red-legged Squirrels.

After lunch, we had a siesta till 3pm although I photographed butterflies around the entrance track to the canopy walkway from 2pm; there were few birds to be seen! After midday, it goes quiet and stays quiet. As we headed back up to the canopy walkway, we saw a Slender Mongoose and a Nile Monitor. Birding was very slow on the walkway and in two hours we racked up just a few more species although Swallows and Swifts were streaming overhead throughout. After some wait, the first new bird was a male African Emerald Cuckoo which was, as the book says, strikingly green. An expected African Green Pigeon finally flew passed as did several more and a pair perched up too. A fine adult Honey Buzzard flew passed at eye level as did the first Harrier Hawk with a total of three displaying later. A female Green Sunbird was seen distantly through the scope and a Grey-headed Nigrita gave decent scope views on top of a dead tree. A colourful Red-rumped Tinkerbird showed well where the Pigeons had been and an Olive Sunbird completed a fine day for Sunbirds as we walked backed.
We tried for night birds but saw none. We heard several Bush-Babies and saw a large millipede and a large Wolf Spider.
As it happened, I decided to pop out again just after I’d finished writing the above. The Wemlite was delivering the goods with a couple of hawk-moths amongst the throng. I could hear the Hyrax calling so I grabbed the torch and headed back out to look for them. As I scanned the trees above the school amphitheatre I found a Bush Baby; back I went for the camera. This caught the attention of the builders who were also staying in the lodgings and they came back with me and we all enjoyed good views of the Bush Baby as it strolled along a bare branch until it disappeared into the vines. I was then given an enjoyable guided tour of the watering holes that they had been digging along the forest edge. More superb moths were on show when we returned just after 10pm.
 
21st Feb, Day 4

Antikwa, Kakum

Very misty until about 8am but once it cleared, we saw loads more birds. We started at a small patch of secondary growth and saw Village Weaver, female Vieillot’s Black Weaver, Black-necked Weaver, Black-winged Bishop, Dusky Blue Flycatcher, Whistling Cisticola, African Palm Swift, the obviously long tailed White-rumped Swift, Little Bee-eater, Blue Headed Coucal which should really be called Blue-naped, a pair of perched Tamborine Dove, a pair of Superb Sunbirds, more Collared Sunbirds, Yellow-browed Camoptera, Splendid Glossy Starling and a large, blue-winged Woodland Kingfisher.
We drove a bit further until we came to a rough track that marked the boundary between the park and the land used for agriculture. This mixed habitat was excellent for birding from the moment we left the car. First up were a pair of Superb Sunbirds followed by, Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher, our fourth and final Malimbe species; Red-vented, a few Red-eyed Dove, Bronze Mannikins, a single Rufous Chested Swallow, Chestnut Breasted Nigrita, Tawny Flanked Prinia, Little Green Sunbird, a few more flyover African Green Pigeon, odd looking Bristle-nosed Barbets in a small noisy group atop a single tree, Buff-spotted Woodpecker, Green Crombec, a flyover group of Violet Backed Starlings, Little Greenbul, Grey Longbill, an elusive but very pretty Red-cheeked Wattle-eye (more bluey-backed than depicted in the book), a single Preuss’s Swallow on a tree along with Barn Swallows and a lone Lesser Streaked Swallow, a wonderfully colourful and ergo badly named Black Bee-eater, Black and White Mannikins, four flyover but scoped Red-fronted Parrots, Red-cheeked Waxbill, three diminutive Tit Hylias (smallest African bird), an adult Slender-billed Greenbul feedig a juvenile, an infrequently seen Black Spinetail overhead, White-breasted Nigrita, Grey-capped Nigrita and Blue-throated Roller overhead. We then photographed some fantastic looking butterflies before driving back out. En route to Twifo Praso we saw a pair of Red-necked Buzzard, a single Grey Kestrel followed by a displaying pair later on, an infrequently seen Long-crested Eagle with its distinct large white bases to the primary undersides, two African Hawk-cuckoo and a Hooded Vulture.
We drove through the busy market in Twifo Praso and stopped to walk down to the river. Rock Pratincole was immediately on show as was a strikingly violet backed White-throated Blue Swallow. Also seen here were two striated Heron, Cattle Egret, Common Sandpiper and a distant nesting White-headed Lapwing.
As we drove back to the lodgings, we stopped to admire a colony of Preuss’s Swallows nesting under a road bridge.
After lunch at 1pm, myself and James headed down to a stream behind the reception office and quietly waited for birds to come and drink and this proved to be a good way of seeing some of the more secretive woodland passerines most of which are depicted on pages 218 and 220 in the Birds of Ghana! First up was Red-tailed Bristlebill followed by the very shy White-tailed Ant Thrush, the latter having white outer tail feathers contrasting with a dark head and dark rufous underparts. Western Bearded Greenbul showed off its shaggy yellow throat feathers. A few Little Greenbuls came down to preen as did a Cameroon Sombre Greenbul and a pair of Red-bellied Paradise Flycatchers. Whilst it may not be on P218-220, the Blue-headed Crested Flycatcher is also a shy bird and a female dropped in briefly, drank, fanned its tail a couple of times and went. The only bird properly seen on the way back was a White-tailed Alethe; another thicket thrush which showed well in cover. The bird is sleaker looking than shown in the field guide.
After dinner of an excellent rice and beans, we had good flight views of Long-tailed Nightjar just outside of the park gates.

22nd Feb Day 5

Abrufo Road and Forest, Kakum

A five minute drive from the reserve entrance and we were at the start of the track that goes to Abrufo Forest. We started here before later driving to the forest.
Fiscal shrikes were on the wires and a Plain-backed Pipit (gouldii) was on the football field by the ‘five star hotel’. Eight Piping Hornbills flew passed and 20 Bronze Mannikins were on the empty shell of the hotel. Amongst the Barn Swallows overhead were two Ethiopian Swallow and Lesser Striped Swallow and 15 more of the later were on wires further along. Other birds seen were Bar-breasted Firefinch, Red-faced Cisticola, Copper Sunbird, Black-necked Weaver, Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher, Blue-billed Firefinch, Vieillot’s Black Weaver, Common Wattle-eye, Tambourine Dove, a pair of Blue-spotted Dove, two elusive Sooty Bulbul, Olive-bellied Sunbird, Simple Greenbul, Fanti Saw-wing and Speckled Tinkerbird.
We drove on to the forest. This was hard work and the species were elusive. Eventually we saw Congo Serpent Eagle although biting Soldier Ants hindered us. The walk back was more productive and we saw Finsch’s Flycatcher Thrush, Grey-throated Flycatcher, Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, Golden Greenbul, Forest Wood Hoopoe, Long-tailed Hawk, Chestnut Capped Flycatcher, Little Grey Greenbul, Chestnut Wattle-eye and Collared Sunbird.
After lunch, myself and James headed two miles right out of the entrance track and we birded some secondary forest by he road. A juvenile Chocolate-backed Kingfisher appeared above our heads and we also had good views of a Yellow-billed Turaco. We narrowly avoided a Cobra before we left the forest and scanned from a highpoint. An African Goshawk was chased into the forest by a Drongo and a juvenile Honey Buzzard soared low down giving good views. Twenty Violet Backed Swallows flew passed and I got good scope views of a non-breeding Pin-tailed Wydah. Highlight was undoubtedly 5+ Black Casqued Hornbill including one male. These monstrous beasts tried crossing the valley several times before they eventually, slowly went overhead.

Moths are proving to be impressive again too!
 
23rd Feb Day 6 International Stingless Bees Centre (!), Kakum

Again, a short drive to the nearest village had us taking another side road to an area of farm land which is also the site for the showy Flufftail; we hoped.
A red Chested Goshawk flew over as we arrived and then we set about locating an elusive Western Nicator that sang sweetly nearby. This proved tricky until we were literally under the large bamboo that it was in. But see it we did and its spotted wing covert tips and yellow vent could be seen etc. We then watched another new sunbird for us, Green-headed Sunbird, which had a blue head and throat that could be vaguely described as being tinged with green. Olive Sunbird and Blue-throated Brown Sunbird also put in an appearance as we continued along the track. A Blue-breasted Kingfisher landed above us albeit in poor light. Small numbers of Little Grey Greenbul, Little Geenbul and Vieillot’s Black Weaver were seen before we watched the shy Western Bluebill feeding under a palm. Several Red-necked Buzzard and Red-cheeked Waxbill were seen before we reached the Flufftail site. We sat down by a small tangle-free opening into the boggy scrub and played the call. At first it didn’t respond but after some minutes, the male called distantly. However, it, and the female were soon responding at very close range and eventually James located the male. Soon it was seen more or less out in the open and we were able to leave it and return to the path with a smile and a handshake. We didn’t see much more after that with the highlight being Tit-Hylias. Therefore we sacked it early and headed back to Kakum lodge for an early lunch.
On our way to Nsuta Forest, we stopped off at the Ashanti Offices before carrying on westwards. Some saltpans near Elmina produced two Black-winged Stilt, two Western Reef Herons, two Whimbrel, a Greenshank, Great White Egret and a Pied Kingfisher .

A couple of hours later, we were at Nsuta Forest and walking the wide tarmac road. It was hot and quiet but eventually we started seeing some decent birds. A male Tiny Sunbird was new for us. A Lanner flew over as did a superb pale morph Ayre’s Hawk Eagle with its distinctive pale head and ptch of black just behind the eye. A Yellow-spotted Barbet was sensibly sheltering from the sun under the canopy of a distant tall tree. Two Rufous Chested Swallow with their long tails were amongst the numerous Barn Swallows and Preuss’s Cliff Swallow was also present. A Yellowbill flew across the road and three Red-fronted Parrots did what the previous birds didn’t do; they sat nicely in a tree. Three Piping Hornbills were seen well and African Green Pigeons and Tambourine Doves flew passed and overhead. A large Black Sparrowhawk flew long across the road. After some effort, a Black Throated Coucal showed itself in a tall tree covered in vines. A male Green Sunbird showed nicely. Brown Cheeked Hornbills could be heard nearby and soon enough they were flying overhead. As we waited for nightfall, we noted Woodland Kingfisher, Fire-bellied Woodpeckers mobbing a Long-tailed Hawk, Plain Backed Pipit (Gouldii) and a pair of Blue-breasted Roller. Then it was dark. Two large Noctule type bats performed over the road but the two calling Brown Nightjar didn’t. However, an Akun Eagle Owl did show superbly and this rounded off another excellent day with some wonderful birds being seen.

Overnight accommodation is the D&A Guesthouse which has air conditioning and hot water.

24th Feb Day 7 Nsuta Forest

5am breakfast and out before 6am. We returned to Nsuta and walked a loggers trail. A Western Nicator showed well and two others were heard later. A couple of Piping Hornbill and a Brown-cheeked Hornbill were seen feeding. The following were seen as we headed further along the track; Cameroon Sombre Greenbul, Yellow-billed Turaco, female African Emerald Cuckoo, African Green Pigeon, Black Bee-eater. Activity began to peak and a flurry of activity produced a White-crested Hornbill that flew across the path whilst the Black-dwarf Hornbill that quickly followed it did the decent thing and perched up. Several Black Hooded Oriole along with several Slender-billed Greenbul. The first of a few superb and showy African Piculet showed at close range and Trevor picked up a large cuckoo in front of us; a juvenile Levaillant’s Cuckoo. A Kemp’s Longbill did its best not to show (but did, eventually) as it circled around us in dense vine. An adult Black Cuckoo perched and preened atop a tall tree stump. Fraser’s Forest Flycatcher sang and showed well several times, occasionally adjacent to a Wood Warbler. The birds kept coming as we sat in a small clearing and looked up; Grey Longbill, Grey-crowned Nigrita, Red Crested Malimbe, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Tit-hylia, Green Hylia, Yellow-browed Camaroptera, African Harrier-hawk and a juvenile Maxwell’s Black Weaver. A Brown Illadopsis responded to playback but showed poorly; typically. A Swamp Palm Bulbul chuckled in a nearby palm and a African (Red-chested) Goshawk, seemed to be beetling next to a deep puddle on the track. Myself and James walked on and found a couple of very good and hard to come by species. We were watching a couple of Red-fronted Parrots when James excitedly called out that Black-collared Lovebirds were flying in. Due to their small size, they promptly disappeared into the foliage but after a short search, we both enjoyed great views as one fed on fruit (that resembled large catkins). These are scarcely seen birds and a real highlight, as was the next bird. As we continued along the track, James again excitedly called out ‘Yellow-footed Honeyguide’ and playback soon had it flying back in and showing well. Another much sought after bird. As if that wasn’t enough, a couple of Sabine’s Spinetail circled overhead and showed off their white underparts. A Rosy Bee-eater did what all the others have done and what the book says they do and flew over. Naked Faced Barbets were new too; James said that one group has missed these in the past! We headed back to the hotel for a shower, lunch and some aircon.

The drive to Ankasa NP was broken up by several stops looking primarily at large ponds with exposed muds. The first lily covered pond had the expected throng of weaver nests including several Orange Weaver, Village Weaver and Vieillot’s Black Weaver. Creeping about on the lilies were a couple of Moorhen and also a showy juvenile Allen’s Gallinule with several adults further back. Also present were African Jacana, Long-tailed Cormorant and Little Bee-eater.
A petrol stop produced two Hooded Vulture.
The next pond was more of a lake with large exposed muddy edges. A Grey Kestrel flew passed and Red-eyed Dove sat on a wire in front of us. Two Greenshank, three Yellow Wagtail, two Ringed Plover, two Western Reef Heron, Bronze Mannikin, Pied and Woodland Kingfishers and Piping Hornbill were seen.
James knows his stuff and a couple of miles before we reached the Frenchman Guest House, he had us stop by a coconut plantation and immediately we saw Reichenback’s Sunbird feeding on the Coconut Palm flowers. We were not quite done and Broad-billed Roller finished off a fantastic day.
 
25th Feb Day 8 Ankasa

A 5.30am breakfast followed by a lift down to the reserve reception where an Ashanti Land Rover was waiting to take us into the forest. While we were waiting for the over worked park ranger, we checked out the bulbuls above the forest track and we were pleased to see the Upper Guinea endemic, Yellow Bearded Greenbul with its distinctive yellow bulging throat and olive green underparts; a medium sized Greenbul. We drove on for quite some time navigating around a fallen tree as we continued to a wide clearing occupied by large pylons that used to take electricity out of Ghana and into the Ivory Coast. As ever at this time in the morning, the clearing was full of bird activity. Square-tailed Saw-wings were flying around us as soon as we exited the car and five Great Blue Turacos were feeding and although it was misty, they gave us great eye level views. Almost immediately after we’d spotted the Turacos, two magnificent Yellow-casqued Hornbill flew across the clearing. Yet another two Black Spinetail flew overhead; our third sighting of the trip of this difficult to see species. As we left the clearing, a Rufous-winged Illadopsis started calling and after some time, we managed brief views of this elusive Upper Guinea endemic perched up.

We approached the first pond with care but we still managed to flush the Hartlaub’s Duck and the Striated Heron that were feeding. The duck perched on tree briefly before fluttering off, calling as it went. The second pond was quiet but the clearing behind it afforded us views of two flyover African Grey Parrots and a distant perched Congo Serpent Eagle. Myself and James carried on toward the third pond and reached another clearing with large pylons whereby we noticed ten or more Copper-tailed Starling and assorted Greenbuls mobbing something in the dense canopy. Red-billed Helmetshrike began to call and sure enough we managed scope views of this stunning looking bird. A Black Sparrowhawk made the first of several crossings over the clearing; a large accipiter. Ussher’s Flycatcher and Broad-billed Roller were making the most of the high wires. An African Pygmy Kingfisher perched up high although later we were to have decent, close eye level views. As we walked to the third pond, James heard and called in a Pale-breasted Illadopsis. At the third pond, we saw Blue-billed and Crested Malimbe, Woodland Kingfisher and Cassin’s Spinetail. On the walk back, James called in a Rufous-sided Broadbill and we had amazing eye level and close views of this bird.

We walked back to meet Trevor at the first pond and he’d enjoyed good prolonged views of some good birds including White-breasted Kingfisher. We waited to see if one would return and soon enough it did although only for a minute. A stunner. An absolute stunner!
Back at the reception, we walked down to the river where we saw a Cassin’s Flycatcher.
After lunch we started walking in from a little after the entrance gate. It was hard going as ever in the afternoon but again the afternoon yielded a few tricky species. Shiny Drongo gave barely passable views and was certainly more elusive than its relatives. A Forest Robin gave itself up without the need for playback and was scoped as it sat on a log. A fruiting tree held Green Sunbirds, Olive Sunbird and all three Ghanaian Nigrita species. Shortly after three Ansorge’s Greenbul were scoped high in the canopy with their distinctive habit of running up and down branches. A quick look at the river by the entrance seemed to be unproductive until the assistant guide who joined called ...... Finfoot! Panic! I quickly looked through the scope and had decent views of the male Finfoot before it moved out of sight. A very shy bird indeed which moved off even though we were at distance.
Another visit later at dusk did not produce the hoped for Nkulenu Rail but several Shiny Drongo hawked above at last light.
After dinner we started dancing to some music played via a laptop. This progressed to a group of the locals playing music outside where we joined them and danced for three hours. Wonderful!

26th Feb Day 9 Ankasa

I headed out early with James and we birded just beyond the fallen tree. It was slow going at first so we called out a Black-capped Illadopsis which landed literally at our feet. Five Yellow-casqued Hornbill flew across the path although they were mostly obscured from view. A Honeyguide Greenbul called overhead and two Slender-billed Greenbul were seen. Before we took a loop trail into the forest, James called in a Brown Illadopsis which showed much better in the canopy above us than its close cousins. In the forest, a Blue-headed Wood-dove showed well above us. Further on, we came across an ant swarm and patient waiting afforded us great views of Forest Robin, two White-tailed Alethe and brief views of the rarely seen Brown-chested Alethe and a Grey Headed Bristlebill. Eventually we moved on and found a decent feeding flock with a couple of Shining Drongo at the front along with an unobtrusive and infrequently seen Brown-eared Woodpecker. Blue-billed Malimbe and several Fraser’s Sunbird were also seen. We took a short break and whilst we were sat down, James successfully whistled in a Red-chested Owlet; we stood up! Great scope views were had and digiscoped images taken. James then whistled in an Olive Long-tailed Cuckoo and the sitting down and standing up process was repeated. A little further on, we reached a derelict hide and James flushed a Latham’s Forest Francolin. Usually, they are not seen again as they are wary of any movement including just leaning sideways a little or the shuffling of feet. But as it was just the two of us standing absolutely still, James called a male in and I watched it as it ran towards us with pace. A proper bobby dazzler! Again, the plate in the fieldguide struggles to capture just how bright the white spots on the underparts are. Also, the black throat contrasting with the black eye-stripe and white supercilium make this a very attractive bird indeed. Last bird of the morning was an African Goshawk sat at mid-canopy in front of us.
A walk along the river in the afternoon was fairly unproductive except for one feeding flock containing mainly Icterine Greenbuls along with Shining Drongos, White-tailed Alethe and Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher.
We looked again from the ornamental bridge below the reception area and finally saw a stunning Shining-blue Kingfisher.
We drove into the forest at dusk to try for Nkulengu Rail again. It was a as calm as we got out of the car but suddenly a wall of wind came towards us and seconds later branches started falling from the trees. I glanced at James and he said “this is dangerous” to which I replied “I was just going to say that” and on cue a large tree crashed down beside us. we quickly got into the car and the driver sped back to the reception area as branches could be heard falling either side of the car the entire way back. It rained; all night.
 
27th Feb Day 10 journey Ankasa to Cape Coast

Started at 6.30am by the river at Ankasa where I had great views of a White-bellied Kingfisher facing me whilst bashing a frog from side to side on the branch. It took some effort but eventually it swallowed the frog. At the reception we had Tiny Sunbird, an adult and juvenile Cassin’s Flycatcher, Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher, Western Black-headed Oriole, five Western Bearded Greenbul, three Fraser’s Sunbird, Olive Sunbird, a showy Western Nicator in the flock, Chestnut Wattle-eye, Blue-throated Brown Sunbird, Grey Crowned Nigrita and Yellow-throated Tinkerbird.

We hadn’t travelled early in the morning previously so it was interesting to see just how many more birds there were on the wires by the roadside; Woodland Kingfisher 10+, Broad Billed Roller 5, Fiscal Shrike 2, Bulbuls, Sparrows etc and a flock of 20 Splendid Glossy Starling over.

We reached the Ebi River and stopped. Reichenback’s Sunbird showed well as we left the car and two Brown Sunbird were easily located. As we were watching the sunbirds, a Giant Kingfisher flew behind them. We quickly walked up the road so that we could overlook the main pool and it was quickly located perched on a vine; a fine male and yet another stunning bird. The three Hartlaub’s Duck were located sleeping distantly and other birds present included three Greenshank, twenty Bronze Mannikin and a flyover juvenile African Darter.
We reached a major estuary where we stopped briefly to photograph two Hood Vultures and I also took the opportunity to take some touristy shots of the estuary. Harrier Hawk flew over and was one of several seen during the journey.

As we drove through a town with a cement works factory I spotted fifteen White-faced Whistling Duck circling low.

We reached the castle at Cape Coast where we were to have lunch but not before we drove along the stunning beachfront. Thirty odd Black Kites were taking the by catch from fishermen. Twenty or so Royal Tern flew West.

After lunch, we birded a heavily polluted lagoon from the roadside which was very birdy though. Cattle Egrets were as ever abundant but there were several Western Reef Heron and two Squacco Heron amongst them with one of the latter being in resplendent summer plumage. There were numerous African Jacana, several Spur-winged Plover, two Pied Kingfisher, three Mottled Spinetail overhead, a Moorhen, Bronze Mannikins, Long-tailed Cormorants, two Common Sandpiper, Woodland Kingfisher and Red-eyed Doves. A Senegal Coucal fed just below us in the reed bed and I noticed a Black Crake run behind it. Eventually we had decent views of two birds. Winding Cisticola were also singing and I got some decent photos of one of the birds. James called me over excitedly so I joined him and Trevor. He’d seen an accro in the reeds and after a few minutes one of two birds showed adequately. They were clearly large and just a little smaller than Great Reed Warbler with grey flanks; Greater Swamp Warblers. Incredibly this was a new bird for James.

Our decision not to go to Brenu Akyinim was further vindicated when we had not only Long-tailed Nightjar but also Black-shouldered Nightjar as well as a prolonged spell in a decent air-conditioned guest house with hot water!

28th Feb Day 11 Abrufo & Picathartes

Breakfast at 5.30am and then back to the forest fragments on agricultural land just before the forest itself. These fragments held scrub skulkers and the aim this morning was to clear up on these if possible.
We checked out the fragment where we had tried for Blue-shouldered Robin Chat and we had great views of Puvel’s Illadopsis and also Brown Illadopsis. Grey-headed Nigrita, twenty White-throated Bee-eater, five African Green Pigeon, six Violet Backed Starling and male Olive Backed Sunbird were seen as we walked to the next fragment. We had the first of a dozen or so sightings of African Pygmy Kingfisher with some great views being had. The next fragment produced Olive-green Camaroptera of the race kelsalli as well as White-throated Greenbul, Yellowbill and Grey-backed Camaroptera in the scrub outside of the fragment (race tincta). We could .hear Green Turaco and a quick walk to a position where we could view the trees that they were in gave me good scope views of three calling birds. Harrier Hawk flew over and male Superb Sunbird landed next to me as we tried for Ahanti Francolin. They didn’t respond but a pair of Pale Flycatcher landed close by as we waited. We had good views of a Cassin’s Honeyguide in the under-storey of a large tree and the following were seen from the track; Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Black Bee-eater, Chestnut-winged Forest Starling, Yellow White-eye in a bush at close range and two Rufous-chested Swallow on the wires above the track. We walked along another track to a large tree that held 20+ Rosy Bee-eater. They have traditionally always been at this spot, bizarrely. Thirty White-fronted Bee-eater landed in an adjacent tree. As we walked back, we enjoyed views of three Rufous-crowned Eremomela with their distinctive black chest bands and bright rufous caps (again, brighter than in the field guide). Red-rumped Tinkerbird and three Sabine’s Spinetail showed well.
We were back on the road at 10am after we had picked up Trevor. There had been a power cut at the Rainforest Lodge but it remarkably kicked back into life as we left our rooms. Not the first time this has happened. Call me a cynic.

We drove for almost two hours before we stopped for lunch at an oddly palatial banquet hall complete with Xmas tree and a true lounge lizard.

An hour after lunch and we were on site for the Picathartes. We had plenty of time and as such we were able to bird on the way up and this paid dividends in the form of a Brucie bonus Green-tailed Bristlebill that landed in full view close by as part of a feeding flock. Awesome. Also seen were Tit-hylia, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Red-crested Malimbe, Blue-billed Malimbe and Fraser’s Forest Flycatcher. We climbed up the last fifty metres of the track and took our seats at 3.15pm and waited for the Yellow-headed Picathartes to appear. At 4.30pm, the male appeared as he bounded up the slope in the forest to my right. He inspected the site and then left after a few minutes. As long as we hadn’t upset him, he would return later we were told so I didn’t take any photos. After 40 minutes, he reappeared with two others and they hopped about on the vines and the rocks. Terrific looking birds and hefty too with long slim legs. Bizarre looking orange-yellow bare head with large black eye contrasting with silky white underparts. We watched them for some time and then, mindful of the time, we headed back down the track.
It was dark when we arrived back at the village at 7pm and then drove for two and a half hours to Bobiri. We stopped on route for some freshly cooked plaintain chips; the seller misunderstood my gesture for a handshake until she eventually understood to laughter all around. I would like to have experienced more of the sights, smells and people away from the comfort of the car and reserves.

The Bobiri accommodation is basic but convenient.
 
1st Mar Day 12 Bobiri

Breakfast at 6am and then onto the entrance track where birds were immediately on show. Ten Copper-tailed Starling fed above us and several Velvet-mantled Drongo sortied from vines. A Red-billed Dwarf Hornbill could be heard further along the track and a quick walk later and we were having good scope views of this bird, two Black Dwarf Hornbill and a White-crested Hornbill flying passed us several times showing off its very long, graduated, white tipped tail and perching briefly once. I picked out a Honeyguide Greenbul above the track and four Red-billed Helmetshike showed well for some time around us. I also spotted another non-descript bird feeding slowly in a bare tree to our right; a Yellow-footed Honeyguide and remarkably our second of the trip; James believed that this is a first for an Ashanti lead trip. Two Forest Wood-hoopoe fed avidly around us for some time also and three Black and White Flycatcher showed well above us with the male displaying showing rounded wings and white flashes in the primary bases. A stunning Blue Cuckooshrike called to our left and was seen well using the scopes.
Other birds seen: four Little Green Sunbird, Cassin’s Honeyguide, Hairy-breasted Barbet, Grey-headed Nigrita, Chestnut-capped Flycatcher, ten Splendid Glossy Starling, Green Hylia, Johanna’s Sunbird and Tiny Sunbird. There were many Tiger Moth Butterfly along the track.

2nd March Day 13 Offinso

A three hour drive from Bobiri meant that we didn’t reach Offinso until 8.30am. An Ashanti lead Birding Breaks group were already on site and we followed them for half an hour or so until they left and headed north to Mole NP. After seeing Grey Kestrel and a nicely perched Double-toothed Barbet, James successfully called in an immature male Variable Sunbird; an uncommon species not often seen. A Green Turaco flew in a showed well in a small tree on the right of the track and Wood Warbler, Melodious Warblers and Garden Warbler were seen well. A Simple Leaflove/Greenbul and a couple of Collared Sunbirds were clearly agitated about something but we failed to locate the presumed snake. A Harrier Hawk was seen well as it fed a large lizard to its single chick. Lizard Buzzard, Orange-cheeked Waxbill, Vieillot’s Barbet, Black-headed Coucal, a pair of Blue-billed Firefinches, Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher and African Grey Hornbill were added to the list as was a strikingly large African Moustached Warbler that sang atop some weedy stems. Brown Crowned Tschagra was also seen here acting something like a cross between a small shrike and a bush robin as it dived on prey from above and then ran along the ground with its tail cocked. Other species; two Northern Puffback, two Moorhen, many Vieillot’s Black Weaver, Village Weavers, Bronze Mannikins and a Green Hylia.
Trevor returned to the car at this point as it was getting rather hot. James and I continued. We kept to the shade as much as we could and were rewarded with two pass-by Cassin’s Hawk Eagles. A European Bee-eater flew over, an infrequent sighting for James. We located a calling Lesser Honeyguide and confirmed that it was the same species as the latter Honeyguide seen at Bobiri yesterday. It is a Savannah species. Two more new birds for the trip were seen before we had lunch, a female African Flycatcher Shrike and a Boko Batis. Once we’d finished lunch, it was clear that bird activity had all but stopped due to the heat and my suncream needed a top up. We marched a couple of kilometres back to the car and retreated to the plush Royal Basin Hotel complete with swimming pool and wifi! I checked the temperature and found that it may have topped 40 degrees centigrade. That is hot.

3rd March Day 14 Atewa farm bush

Not quite as hot as yesterday and in fact it was rather pleasant in the morning. But the heat soon picked up but not quite as frazzling as the day before.
The birding started well with a brilliantly showy juvenile Dwarf Bittern seen immediately after leaving the vehicle as it sat on some low vegetation and preened for at least ten minutes. After that, the birding was a little mundane except for a Square-tailed Saw-wing. Other Species seen; Superb Sunbird, Senegal Coucal, Fiscal, Vieillot’s Barbet, Village Weaver, Red-faced Cisticola, Little Bee-eater, Rufous-chested Swallow, Red-cheeked Waxbill, Vieillot’s Black Weaver, Olive Bellied Sunbird, Naked-faced Sunbird, Tambourine Dove, Grey-headed Nigrita, Velvet-mantled Drongo, Swamp-palm Bulbuls, Speckled Tinkerbird, Olive Sunbird, White-breasted Nigrita, a showy adult Honey Buzzard and a male Copper Sunbird.
Later, at dusk, we returned for Fraser’s Eagle Owl and once again we failed to find one. A roosting Malachite Kingfisher and a showy Long-tailed Nightjar on the track were compensation.
 
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