brianfm
Botanical Birder
Hungary June 12th-19th June 2008. Trip Report
An overnight drive took us from Newcastle to Luton airport for the flight to Budapest, but not before encountering torrential rain on the M1. My mind was by now on Hungarian sunshine, but as it proved, I was being overly optimistic! I was travelling with Graham (Level Seven) and we had planned an all round natural history week with the emphasis being upon birds and butterflies. We were to stay at Farm Lator in the southern foothills of the Bukk Mountains (thanks are owed to those on B F who pointed me in this direction as the decision to stay here for the full week proved to be a wise one). The advice and guidance of naturalist Rob de Jong who owns Farm Lator was invaluable. We planned to visit the Hortobagy and Aggtelek regions from there. We were armed with Collins Bird and Butterfly Guides, The Crossbill Guide for Hortobagy and the Field Guide for Dragonflies of Britain and Europe. As it turned out the later hardly saw the light of day. Graham also had an alternative and very useful Butterfly Guide, but more of that anon.Day One
We had arrived in Budapest early in the day so it was decided to stay clear of the motorway and take the alternative route to the Bukk Hills and to be honest I think we got a better feel of Hungary by doing so. Certainly we were quickly counting Marsh Harriers, White Storks and one Montague’s Harrier and when we had a short stop next to a field full of Lucerne and Poppies we had our first butterflies of the trip in Bath White, Eastern Pale Clouded Yellow, Meadow Brown and Small Heath. Golden Orioles called from nearby, but we had little luck in finding them amongst the lush greenery apart from my fleeting view of a female bird. At this point the heat of the day was at its peak, but very soon into the remainder of the drive we were going through what can best be described as a tropical rainstorm which made the heavy rain in Luton look like a passing shower! The journey was straight forward and our next stop was a slight diversion along the road which led to the wine region of Bogacs. The lake on the left of this road had been recommended by a B F member. Thanks Gary. It was dry now and the short diversion was well worthwhile.
A look amongst the roadside trees and a short walk along the dam quickly brought us Grey Heron, Purple Heron, Kestrels, Common Buzzard, Black Redstart, Northern Wheatear, Stonechat, Chiffchaff, Lesser Grey Shrikes (in numbers) and Tree Sparrows amongst others. We also quickly picked up the song of Turtle Dove, Corn Bunting and Golden Orioles. We soon sighted the two former birds, but were again unlucky with the latter. Our first Cuckoo of many during the trip was also heard. On our return walk we realised we were being carefully watched by what Graham described as a ‘massive’ dog. I wasn’t too concerned until it began to approach us in a threatening manner. I had not unpacked the telescope so was without a weapon and I sensed Graham was searching for a stick to ward of this vicious looking beast as I considered a diversion through the field. It clearly sensed our nervousness and kept on coming until it reached us. My whole life flashed before my eyes. At this point it rolled over at my feet for it’s tum to be tickled! It stayed with us for the rest of our time in the area and I was sorry to have to say goodbye! I will say at this point that I came into contact with several more dogs during the week and many of them were not going to roll over quite so easily!
We reached Farm Lator in plenty of time to refresh before dinner and to check out the extensive gardens. A walk after dinner took us a short way into the adjoining forest. I slept well!
Day Two
We had always planned a relaxing day in the nearby area and Rob had the evening before recommended a walk which would fill a good few hours. We set off thinking that the cloud would break up and that the very slight rain in the air would clear. The walk began from Farm Lator and was to take us through forest, meadow and onto a limestone ridge before we entered more forest. I guess the area would have been good for butterflies if the rain had stopped, but that was not to be and I am surprised that we saw quite a few Meadow Browns and Small Heaths. A good area too, for wild flowers. Black Redstarts, Serin and Tree Sparrows were always about the accommodation and initially the walk brought us only common woodland birds and a rather spectacular moth, which I soon learnt was very common indeed. I’ll include a photo. Red Backed Shrikes and Yellow Wagtails soon made an appearance. I don’t mind walking in rain, but there are limits and we were glad to climb into a tower hide used by hunters at one point so as to try and dry out a little. The birds we saw from here kept the spirits up and included numbers of Turtle Doves and Hawfinches and a Tree Pipit. I enjoyed my time in that hide and you will see from the photograph of Graham that he was in high spirits. We guessed that we were in an area that might not see anyone for days on end so we took great care climbing down the ladder when we decided to set off again. The rain kept coming heavier and heavier until we decided that it might be best to back track rather than run the risk of getting lost on what was a rather difficult path to follow and we had just seen the odd Coal Tit. On our wet return we had good views of Cuckoo and Jay. I must say I was quite pleased to get back, get dried and have a cup of hot chocolate and one of Graham’s emergency supplies of rather nice biscuits. My boots took a couple of days to dry and I daren’t stick my nose in them even now, Grahams took almost a week I reckon, and the alternative Butterfly Guide I mentioned earlier had become one soggy mass of paper in Grahams bag before I had even had the chance to look at it. I post threads entitled ‘Wet Birder’ at times, but this was the real thing!
Anyway the afternoon improved and after sighting Imperial Eagle (lifer) from the lawn we decided to drive to the fish pond down the road, not really expecting too much as we had been told that bird scarers were in use and there were no birds on the water. We actually found a wonderful area of reed bed and more dogs, this time vicious ones, which thankfully could not get to us. Birds seen here included Marsh Harrier, Common Buzzard, Turtle Dove, White, Grey and Yellow Wagtail, Song Thrush, Red Backed Shrike (in numbers), Savi’s Warbler, Reed Warbler, Great Reed Warbler and Reed Bunting. Chiffchaff and Grasshopper Warbler were heard and refused to be drowned out by those Great Reed Warblers. We had a mystery bird too which I initially thought to be Reed Warbler although Graham immediately thought not and was proven correct when we head the song. We could only think it was Olivaceous Warbler (lifer), but weren’t certain so didn’t include it in the list initially, although having come home and played the song on C D I reckon that is what it was. Rob confirmed that he had seen them in the area, but that they would be rare.
What had begun as a wet soggy day ended on a high note with a great couple of hours birding in the sun before dinner.