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Can ue my telescope (1 Viewer)

JSER

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In fact I have tried it just once before when I was not into bird photography.

However, I have a Skywatcher PRO 80 APO refractor for my Astronomy

http://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk/acatalog/SkyWatcher_Equinox_80_PRO_ED_Refractor.html

with dialectric 90degree diagonal and top quality 2" eyepieces, now I have used this on occasion to watch birds, however, as I have all the necessary equipment for Astrophotography.

I assume that I could simply remove the 90degree and insert a straight camera adaptor

http://www.scopesnskies.com/prod/60.html

and T2 mount in the scope and attach either my sons D3100 lightweight or my 60D.

Or am I missing something.

Thank you.
 
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So that is what I have already, in the link, which takes a T2, have been into Astronomy for 40+ years, hence my website www.sirpatrickmooresales.co.uk.

And I am a friend of Patricks, one of my Ha (Hydrogen Alpha) photos is in his latest teach yourself astronomy books.

Regards
 
I am a little confused, you have a 2" diagonal that you use 2" quality eyepieces in and you want to use a 1.25 " combined T-mount adapter and eyepiece projection unit. Do you have an adapter to adapt 2" down to 1 1/4" to mount this to the 2" focuser? I have one of these and never used it yet [eyepiece projection unit]. I would think you would want a 2" adapter to fit right into the focuser 2" adapter.

http://www.iankingimaging.com/show_products.php?category=19

The Skywatcher 2" adapter or the Max DSLR adapter
 
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I suggest that you not try to use the T2 mount for prime focus photography and digiscope instead. You will get at least twice the power. Pictured is my set up using my Orion 80ED and 90 deg. two inch diagonal. The Lumix LX3 is shown, but I also use my G1 Lumix with a 24mm lens. I like to use Baader Hyperion 17mm eyepiece that has threads on the top to attach to the camera lens with the proper adapter ring. The diagonal puts only downward forces on the lens and will not pry the lens apart as happens with straight camera attachment to the scope.

The 4/3 is better for digiscoping because it lets you use a shorter focal length lens for faster speed and/or less ISO than a full size SLR. A new G1 is cheap now. It does not have the mirror flop to vibrate your camera with the long digiscoping lens.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3475/5813210235_2bdeb2f6eb.jpg
 
I suggest that you not try to use the T2 mount for prime focus photography and digiscope instead. You will get at least twice the power. Pictured is my set up using my Orion 80ED and 90 deg. two inch diagonal. The Lumix LX3 is shown, but I also use my G1 Lumix with a 24mm lens. I like to use Baader Hyperion 17mm eyepiece that has threads on the top to attach to the camera lens with the proper adapter ring. The diagonal puts only downward forces on the lens and will not pry the lens apart as happens with straight camera attachment to the scope.

The 4/3 is better for digiscoping because it lets you use a shorter focal length lens for faster speed and/or less ISO than a full size SLR. A new G1 is cheap now. It does not have the mirror flop to vibrate your camera with the long digiscoping lens.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3475/5813210235_2bdeb2f6eb.jpg

That is what I was considering without the diagonal, will try it with, thank you.

One of my scopes is here

http://sirpatrickmooresales.co.uk/Telescopegimbalcomingsoon.aspx
 
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