• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

A Thailand Retrospective (1 Viewer)

Thanks Joanne,

We were at the Evason Six Senses Spa which is half an hour's drive south of Hua Hin (itself three hours south of Bangkok, on the Gulf of Thailand).

H
 
A Gas Guzzling 4x4 And A Sat Nav

Now, I've never been a fan of Sat Navs - if fact I can't stand them.
But having been to Kaeng Krachan before and knowing I'd be doing the journey while dark I thought having one would be a good idea.
I was right.

The rental company duly delivered The Beast - a 3 litre turbo diesel Hilux - free upgrade to a 4 door - with Sat Nav - to the hotel on the monday morning. We literally climbed aboard.

Full of renewed calm and new energy from her pampering and sun, I'd persuaded Mrs.H to come along for the first part-day. We set off with the Sat Nav chirping merrily. We had to negotiate the maze of roads to the Hua Hin bypass - no easy thing, but the Nav was great.
The seductive American woman even warned me of bad bends in the roads! And before long we were up to cruising speed to the north, gulping fuel at a prodigious rate. Would it take me the route I wanted to go?
Yes!

We turned east and then north towards Kaeng Krachan. The roads were straight and quiet and we were soon coming to hill country. On the wires just then I spied two Pale-capped pigeons - obliging - they were the only ones I saw.
Doing seventy mph all the way, suddenly the road ended. There was no more road!

The Nav seemed to suggest the road continued - over a morass of mud heaped high by bulldozers - no sign of any road beyond. We crept forwards hundreds of yards over great grey humps and the 4-wheel drive scrambled optimistically on.
Then we reached a cliff. OK it was only five feet high - but sheer. And no road beyond!
Backtrack.

At the end of the tarmac was a small dust-covered sign - a diversion? We went left. The Sat Nav protested and our progress across more rutted mud showed to be off-road - we were going nowhere it seemed.
But a few minutes later and a discernable track amongst the mud appeared - and the Nav gave a grateful chirrup and said we should continue.
And so to Kaeng Krachan we went.

First, to collect three days of permits for the National Park from HQ, set by the huge reservoir, the views superb, then to the Park proper - several miles on.
Through the guarded entrance and along the track. Jungle!

Within minutes we had stopped to watch a troup of apes cross the road - there were 250 of them! Elephant dung was all along the roadside.

Up to the lower campground where the barrier was down - up and down traffic is strictly controlled from here on - the morning's up-time had gone already (it was midday by now) - this was as far as we would go today.

As we parked the birds were visible. Orange-headed thrush and Forest wagtail - two subrb birds together under the nearby trees, Puff-throated babblers and Striped tit babblers above them.
Into the forest proper - Red junglefowl were everywhere - and a Greater flameback (woodpecker) was following them on trunks above - screaming out its ridiculous call. But suddenly something else - moving near the ground but keeping a low profile - for a while I struggled to get a view. Then: there: Greater-necklaced laughing thrush! What a stunner. My first laughingthrush.

As I backtracked a deer stepped out from the gloom and walked right in front of me! Mrs.H was sitting on the lawn reading as I went off in another direction, then I called her over to see a group of Gibbons sitting low in nearby trees, unfazed.

Bulbuls and babblers, flycatchers and barbets, Asian fairy bluebirds, Chestnut-headed bee-eaters: birds everywhere. Along a stream a White's thrush gave great views - bobbing its hind like a Common sandpiper - now I didn't know they did that!
Scarlet minivets in the sunshine blew the mind, another smaller deer, more apes, humbug-striped squirrels (I really must get a mammal guide!) - we headed back . I was itching for a proper go at KK - that would wait for the next two days.

We reset the Sat Nav and duly found our way back - tomorrow I'd be doing the roadless terrain in darkness - I was glad I'd done the run in daylight first - and glad I'd chosen to have the Nav.
 
Last edited:
The seductive American woman even warned me of bad bends in the roads! And before long we were up to cruising speed to the north, gulping fuel at a prodigious rate. Would it take me the route I wanted to go?

“Open the Hilux doors, Halley.”
“I’m sorry H, I can’t do that.”
“Open the doors, Halley,”
“I’m sorry H, but your quota of ticks for the day has been met.”

More spectacular birds and a jungle adventure! Greater-necklaced Laughing Thrush? Are you making these up? Soon you'll be listing a Fork-tailed Albatros.

How many lifers did you get on this trip?

Personally, I love our GPS (sat-nav); we'd be lost without it.;) (Actually Gene can plot us with celestial navigation, but it is a pain.)
Sue
 
LOL Sue - 2009 A Bird Odyssey!

Actually I got around 40 lifers not bad for a return trip - not got round to updating the old list yet.

Am off to my sister's for a party this weekend - so further installments will be delayed.

H

Edit: Am ready & have time...
 
Last edited:
Kaeng Krachan

Having sorted the route, got the permits, Mrs.H had arranged her Spa Day, I was too excited to sleep. I'd arranged a wake-up call for 4:30 am - but was out of the room and cancelling it before that time arrived.

I had a plan - I would arrive at the bottom camp by first light and drive to top camp as dawn broke. The Sat Nav did its stuff and I was exactly on cue.

What I hadn't anticipated was the amount of other vehicles - almost all service vehicles for the top camp - which would be on the same track.
I'd hoped to see - as others had - Pittas or Silver pheasants on the road up.
Even allowing a decent interval between me and the nearest vehicle in front, and allowing for the clouds of dust to resettle, didn't afford me any birds - other than one Orange-headed thrush - on the way.

It was fully light before I'd crawled the many kilometres along the extreme track - the 4x4 very necessary, but the views became spectacular and I was itching to begin birding. So I stopped at a birding track and walked into the jungle.

Bird sounds were all around me - noise and movement, added to by gibbons, but nothing was allowing a decent view for a long while - jungle birding can be like this. Then a group of birds were more obliging. These turned out to be White-browed scimitar babblers and Rufous-fronted babblers, the first a tick; but glimpses of other species proved insufficient.

I decided to head to the end of the road.

Passing the top camp I was astounded to find crowds of tourists there - I continued, seeing many more. The views - including "The Sea of Fog" became ever more wonderful - pristine primary forest clothing sharp ridges and valleys as far as the eye could see. Eventually the road's end. Time to park and bird.

I followed the trail, Blue-throated barbets singing and showing, then a Pale-blue flycatcher gave great views, Spangled drongos were common and a Ruby-cheeked sunbird showed. Then I was in deep forest and searching for the really good stuff. A Siberian blue robin gave promise of more to come. A Mountain tailorbird obliged - then a super yellow bird I didn't recognise at all - which turned out to be a Sulphur-breasted warbler.
A Grey-headed canary flycatcher and a Forest wagtail - nice.

But I was searching for pittas and I wasn't seeing any. They can be extremely difficult and patience is essential - trouble was I was on a schedule - the fixed return times for the track downward was 10 am at the latest. I was making my way back to the car when a movement on the ground caused a pause.

I had a view of a brown back, pitta-sized, bounce twice over the forest floor and disappear. Heart-in-mouth, every sense straining, willing the bird to show. Nothing. I attempted a few steps towards it - but the terrain was 45 degrees and though the undergrowth patchy there was also loud leaf litter. After a few skidding noisy steps I gave up. The pitta - probably an Eared pitta and a mega tick would have to remain unclaimed.

I reached The Beast and started back to the downslope checkpoint with minutes to go. The first section of the track was steeper than 1:3 - possibly 1:2. There was a warning in Thai - which might have been why I was the only one at this point!

I pointed The Beast at the slope and, as they say, gunned it. I got half way up. Four wheels scrambling and crabbing the vehicle sideways until it ground to a halt. Gingerly I reversed back down and had another go.
Same result. Except with some smell of burning. Hmm...

Third time lucky they say. And, nothing ventured.
I aimed at a slightly different part of track and really went for it, breasting the rise as The Beast ran out of inertia. Made it. Now to make the 10am. deadline.

10:01 - through the checkpoint and on down the track: last man down!

Stopping for some birding on the way: Tickell's flycatcher - common enough, but lovely, then, quietly looking at me from a nearby branch: an Orange-breasted trogon (there's one to look up folks!).
A male Chinese blue flycatcher was giving great views to an assembly of photographers - fantastic! On the tree above, two Dollarbirds.

Just along the track two Sultan tits - a long wished-for tick - showed superbly while White-rumped munias were quietly going about their business below. A Swinhoe's minivet flycaught from a snag branch, when a noise like a stalling jet took the eyes to a Great hornbill crashing into a fruiting tree. Birds were everywhere - many not giving good enough views - such as a Leafbird of one of three possible species too high and mobile...

A small warbler which must be White-tailed leaf warbler obliged. A Great iora, Asian fairy bluebirds, a Greater flameback - where to look, hundreds of birds were moving.

But the hours had come and gone all too fast - and too many had been spent in The Beast and not enough in the jungle. Tomorrow, I resolved, I'd change tactics and base myself at the lower camp and bird the jungle constantly.

It proved to be a good decision.
 
KK Final Day

Thanks Patrick. It is a great country - but then, so is Costa Rica.


A bit of a lie-in today: 04:30 hours.
Set off without money - so a Jos-like day without food or drink in store - was too far on the way before I'd realised. Ho-hum.

An Indian nightjar on the way - by the roadside. Otherwise an uneventful journey in The Beast, Sat Nav Lady chirping away timely and appropriately.

Arrived at KK at 05:59 hrs. - a bit of a mis-timing - I was aiming for 06:00!
Had hoped that Great-eared nightjars might be in the air as dawn broke (they are seen at dusk) - but a small Nightjar on the track - probably Grey - had to suffice.

Dawn, lower campground. Out and birding.

Hill mynahs and Spangled drongos in a tree together, first up. Then a sound and a movement - a woodpecker came in to a dead tree nearby. Light just good enough and improving by the second. A Greater yellownape - joned by another. Tick no. one within seconds - and a goody!

A bird wave began to come across the track - Lesser-necklaced laughingthrushes by the dozen, a Greater leafbird, and a Silver pheasant (female) zapped back to cover. I followed down an elephant track into deep jungle. Sounds all around. Movements. I crept quietly on. Suddenly, nearby, a huge crash and a thunder of hooves as a huge animal thundered and crashed through the undergrowth, across the stream and kept going.
Despite its size and proximity I only got the briefest of glimpses - and can only guess at Tapir!

Quiet again, crept on...another Silver pheasant flushed from underfoot. Then an arc of movement around me - a bird perched closeby, facing me, low, then flew another arc and landed in view again. Moustached hawk cuckoo!! A Moustached hawk cuckoo: giving brilliant views, fanning its tail and watching the watcher. A real beaut.

Another bird-wave began. Loud cacophony, movement and shadows, whirring wings, a whole group of stuff moved before me, beneath the canopy. Lesser-necklaced laughingthrushes and Crested jays eyed me, a Pine martin type mammal too. Something was whacking at a trunk nearby - I crept forward.

So close to the tree that chunks of wood rained down on me, I peered up at the woodpecker just feet away. The only thing I couldn't see was its head - essential for identification. It whacked on regardless. I made a noise. Nothing - wood continued to rain down. I gave a loud shout. Still nothing.

Eventually it paused its carpentry and looked down at me - at last the head - a Laced woodpecker - which made it a tick!

After many more minutes of creeping around the jungle floor without seeing anything on the ground - Pitta-searching again (perhaps putting up one unseen to branches above - just a whirr of wings) I emerged back out on the track into sunshine.
Amongst other birds showing, an unfamiliar head was looking my way - a Green jay - what a superb bird - normally very shy, this one gave me a good look. Still smiling from this lifer another then immediately showed: another goody: a Chestnut-bellied malkoha. But wait: a scream of wings overhead and two Wreathed hornbills flew over and landed not far off - fantastic! Three ticks in three minutes.

Abbott's babblers, Lesser racket-tailed drongos, Red junglefowls, Sultan tits, White-rumped shama, to name a few over the next few minutes along the track...time to submerge into jungle again. Another elephant track, redolant with the smell from heaps of dung - some very fresh, with attendant insect life, wound its way around.

Things had been quiet for a while when another wave began. This time along with the Laughingthrushes were Greater racket-tailed drongos - rackets dangling - but even better - a Larged-billed scimitar-babbler - with its huge sickle bill, stood long enough for a brief view. Again something was chopping at wood nearby. Again I crept towards the sounds.

This time a Green-eared barbet - completely unfazed by my approach - continued to chip at a trunk at eye-height. Nearby a lovely male Blue-throated flycatcher showed on a low branch, more birds all around.

Time to walk the stream - Kingfishers and possibly Forktails to find.

A grey wagtail! Babblers, Bulbuls, Black-naped orioles, Leafbirds, Barbets another Chestnut-bellied malkoha and a second male Chinese blue flycatcher! Though many more birds, and plenty of Gibbons, showed, the elusive ticks remained unseen.
A Mountain hawk-eagle flew a close validictory circle above as I reached The Beast to go. But KK hadn't finished with me yet. Stopping at a waterhole along the track back, to watch a deer drink - bright fawn with white inner thighs and undertail - a movement up above. A group of minivets high in the canopy showed enough to be identified as my final tick: Short-billed minivets.

The Beast and Sat Nav Lady took a well-pleased me back, both behaving impeccably. There was still a lot more to see at KK - but they would have to wait for a return match.
 
Congratulations on your

2009: A Bird Odyssey.

It sounds like you had the perfect ending to a great vacation—birding or otherwise. You’ve seen birds that most people have never even heard of---let alone seen. I’m surprised at the wildlife you could have encountered; I think I would have been a bit worried by fresh Elephant droppings. Elephants! I almost peed my pants running into dingos!
 
Hi Sue & Joanne,

Yes, thanks, KK wasn't really the end - I might do a small addendum. Was at the pub last night talking Thailand (& other places others have been) and dreaming up another possible future trip - loads still to see!

Did you see my bit of good news re Costa Rica & the earthquake? (Vacational Trip Reports)

H
 
Warning! This thread is more than 15 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top