KK Final Day
Thanks Patrick. It is a great country - but then, so is Costa Rica.
A bit of a lie-in today: 04:30 hours.
Set off without money - so a Jos-like day without food or drink in store - was too far on the way before I'd realised. Ho-hum.
An Indian nightjar on the way - by the roadside. Otherwise an uneventful journey in The Beast, Sat Nav Lady chirping away timely and appropriately.
Arrived at KK at 05:59 hrs. - a bit of a mis-timing - I was aiming for 06:00!
Had hoped that Great-eared nightjars might be in the air as dawn broke (they are seen at dusk) - but a small Nightjar on the track - probably Grey - had to suffice.
Dawn, lower campground. Out and birding.
Hill mynahs and Spangled drongos in a tree together, first up. Then a sound and a movement - a woodpecker came in to a dead tree nearby. Light just good enough and improving by the second. A Greater yellownape - joned by another. Tick no. one within seconds - and a goody!
A bird wave began to come across the track - Lesser-necklaced laughingthrushes by the dozen, a Greater leafbird, and a Silver pheasant (female) zapped back to cover. I followed down an elephant track into deep jungle. Sounds all around. Movements. I crept quietly on. Suddenly, nearby, a huge crash and a thunder of hooves as a huge animal thundered and crashed through the undergrowth, across the stream and kept going.
Despite its size and proximity I only got the briefest of glimpses - and can only guess at Tapir!
Quiet again, crept on...another Silver pheasant flushed from underfoot. Then an arc of movement around me - a bird perched closeby, facing me, low, then flew another arc and landed in view again. Moustached hawk cuckoo!! A Moustached hawk cuckoo: giving brilliant views, fanning its tail and watching the watcher. A real beaut.
Another bird-wave began. Loud cacophony, movement and shadows, whirring wings, a whole group of stuff moved before me, beneath the canopy. Lesser-necklaced laughingthrushes and Crested jays eyed me, a Pine martin type mammal too. Something was whacking at a trunk nearby - I crept forward.
So close to the tree that chunks of wood rained down on me, I peered up at the woodpecker just feet away. The only thing I couldn't see was its head - essential for identification. It whacked on regardless. I made a noise. Nothing - wood continued to rain down. I gave a loud shout. Still nothing.
Eventually it paused its carpentry and looked down at me - at last the head - a Laced woodpecker - which made it a tick!
After many more minutes of creeping around the jungle floor without seeing anything on the ground - Pitta-searching again (perhaps putting up one unseen to branches above - just a whirr of wings) I emerged back out on the track into sunshine.
Amongst other birds showing, an unfamiliar head was looking my way - a Green jay - what a superb bird - normally very shy, this one gave me a good look. Still smiling from this lifer another then immediately showed: another goody: a Chestnut-bellied malkoha. But wait: a scream of wings overhead and two Wreathed hornbills flew over and landed not far off - fantastic! Three ticks in three minutes.
Abbott's babblers, Lesser racket-tailed drongos, Red junglefowls, Sultan tits, White-rumped shama, to name a few over the next few minutes along the track...time to submerge into jungle again. Another elephant track, redolant with the smell from heaps of dung - some very fresh, with attendant insect life, wound its way around.
Things had been quiet for a while when another wave began. This time along with the Laughingthrushes were Greater racket-tailed drongos - rackets dangling - but even better - a Larged-billed scimitar-babbler - with its huge sickle bill, stood long enough for a brief view. Again something was chopping at wood nearby. Again I crept towards the sounds.
This time a Green-eared barbet - completely unfazed by my approach - continued to chip at a trunk at eye-height. Nearby a lovely male Blue-throated flycatcher showed on a low branch, more birds all around.
Time to walk the stream - Kingfishers and possibly Forktails to find.
A grey wagtail! Babblers, Bulbuls, Black-naped orioles, Leafbirds, Barbets another Chestnut-bellied malkoha and a second male Chinese blue flycatcher! Though many more birds, and plenty of Gibbons, showed, the elusive ticks remained unseen.
A Mountain hawk-eagle flew a close validictory circle above as I reached The Beast to go. But KK hadn't finished with me yet. Stopping at a waterhole along the track back, to watch a deer drink - bright fawn with white inner thighs and undertail - a movement up above. A group of minivets high in the canopy showed enough to be identified as my final tick: Short-billed minivets.
The Beast and Sat Nav Lady took a well-pleased me back, both behaving impeccably. There was still a lot more to see at KK - but they would have to wait for a return match.