Issac, I have a Nikon F4 300mm to which I use a 1.4 extender 99% of the time. It definitely increases the close focus distance. For Butterflies I have to remove it.
No, the MFD does not change when using a converter. This is why folk sometimes use a 1.4x tc with a macro lens - at the MFD without the extender you get 1:1 but add an extender and you get 1.4:1maybe it is a bad copy. Or... Does the minimum focus distance increase with the extender. Maybe I was focusing on birds that were too close? Just went to the local pond that have tame domestic geese and some starlings walking around. Could that be it?
See my post above Isaac - converters do not effect the MFDSo is it safe to assume that the close focus distance is 40% farther away with the 1.4 extender on? Or is there some other formula that I do not know?
That could explain it then Jeff :t:i have seen reports from elsewhere re the sigma 1.4 tc not working correctly while the canon ones are fine ,
Isaac, I have just been out in my garden trying the siggy hand held at 600mm with the 1.4x tc attached and it was auto focusing very well considering it is at f9. I tried switching from a near target to a far one and visa-verse and it latched onto to everything except the light coloured garden fence which had zero contrast (even the bare lens would have struggled with it). From an IQ point I suspect that my combo needs a bit of AFMA (similar to my 400/5.6 + the same converter which requires -7). I would never use this combo hand held as previously mentioned but thought I would give it a whirl just to see the AF performance. It is obviously slower than the bare lens but providing the AF is very roughly in the right area it AF'd surprisingly quickly.
I just had a thought, you were not using spot AF were you? you have to be careful with spot AF because sometimes the AF area is so small that it lacks contrast - using a 1.4x tc would make this even more critical.
No, not zone but just a single AF point. Spot AF and single point AF are two different things (the spot focus covers a lot smaller area so there is more chance of less contrast).I did you spot focus (1 focus point). So you suggest using zone? I will try that.
Very strange why the Sigma converter seems so poor against the Canon one. Having said that even with AF at f8 these days, f5.6 is still the magic number when it comes to really good IQ and fast AF with converters. So with a 1.4x tc a f4 (or faster) lens is really needed. With a 2x tc a f2.8 lens works really well.Tried the 1.4x again in sun and plenty of contrast. Performance was very bad. I took it out of spot focus and still worked a very small percentage of the time. Have it packed up and being sent back to store for a refund. Will wait to see if others get any good results with it (maybe I got a bad copy) or with the Canon version. Mostly in theory I do not think I would use it. If it has to be on a tripod and is so moody then it is not something I would put to too much use anyway.
Yep, I have also found that on the 'C' I was surprised just how good the AF was with the Canon 1.4x tc MkII considering it is at f9 .To be honest Roy on the sports it doesn't slow it down or infringe on the I.q to much at all with the canon one ,but it does add to the weight pushing it just to far for comfort .that however is with my 1d3 ,how it would perform on a 7d2 is as yet unknown
Nick, unless anyone has both lenses at their disposal, microadjusted to the same Camera and tested in controlled conditions the only way you can compare is by Sigma's own MTF charts which measure the optical performance.Roy - you say "the 'C' is supposed to be optically the same as the 'S'". Where have you seen that? Is that opinions of shooters on the net, or have Sigma actually said this?
I am reluctant to pay extra for the 'S' and put up with the extra weight if it is no better optically than the 'C'.
Looking on the net myself on this topic, the only remarks I can find on IQ comparisons 'S' versus 'C' seem to indicate that IQ in the edges of the frame are better on the 'S', but you wouldn't see this anyway on an APS-C camera.
Nick, unless anyone has both lenses at their disposal, microadjusted to the same Camera and tested in controlled conditions the only way you can compare is by Sigma's own MTF charts which measure the optical performance.
Disregarding the 150mm end of the zoom (which for some unknown reason the C is best). The S is certainly better in the corners but for anyone using a crop Camera or if you use a FF and crop in processing it does not matter a lot as you know.
If you look at 600mm the charts for the centre zone shows that wide open there is hardly anything to choose between them. Both improve a lot at f8 but the S has a small advantage for sure.
With 600mm (especially on a crop Camera) a very small difference in atmospheric conditions or long lens technique can easily offset any small advantage that a lens has. If you compare say the relatively cheap S to a top notch lens like the 600/4 then it is not in the same ballpark given equal conditions but if you shoot the Siggy in good atmospheric conditions and the 600/4 is not so good conditions the Siggy could well out perform the much more expensive lens.
There is no doubt that the S has better build quality and is wethersealed, it also has a closer MFD, If I could manage the weight then I would certainly have gone for the Sport as I am prepared to pay more for the small IQ gain.
If money and the extra weight is of no concern and you want the absolute best optical performance then the S is the better lens and you should go for it.