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Help....anybody !!!!!!! (1 Viewer)

kingfisher

Scouser in exile
I am fairly new to this Digiscoping fun, i own a Nikon 4500 and my scope is an Opticron imagic 80, for Digiscoping i use a 35xx ww HDF eye piece an d the adapter is from eagle eye optics.

My problem is that when i take shots they always come out always blurred, and i am rather puzzled by the whole thing, i have followed Andy Brights tips on setting up the Nikon from a previous thread, i.e. on Manual etc, but alas to no joy.......is it the eyepiece or am i missing something fairly obvious ......... help someone please........

A grateful Kingfisher.:t:
 
Have you narrowed it down to either camera shake or lack of focus, or could something else (dirty lens, possibly) be causing it ?

Tony
 
Hi Tony,

i use a wired remote to rule out camera shake and the lens on both scope and Nikon are clean as a whistle.....as this is what i thought was causing the problem. I am sure i am doing something wrong here somewere......
 
A 35x eyepiece is a bit over the top for most situations... unless the sun is out, you will be getting very slow shutter-speeds... the remote doesn't totally eliminate camera shake (watch out for the cable pulling on the camera, trembling hands can still transmit up the remote cable!)

The magnifications involved when using a 35x eyepiece and a fair amount of camera zoom are amazing... many things can cause slight vibration and ruin the image.
Tried taking pics of inanimate objects.... to rule out motion blur from the birds?
Watch out for heat haze and air pollutants.....even in cold weather.
Don't be greedy with the camera zoom!
Andy B
 
One other thing Knigfisher, it is one of Andy's tips, but I don't know whether you picked up on it. With the remote release I find I get more consistent results by half depressing the shutter to lock focus and then refocusing the scope, also doing this means less travel of the shutter release when actually taking the photo, so less vibration.

I also find vibration from the shutter release a problem and also wooden hides as movement by anyone in the building sets up vibration. I generally try to use only sufficient camera zoom to remove vignetting, which enables a slightly faster shutter speed.

Likewise from Andy's tips, forget depth of field and go for the widest camera aperture, again to get the fastest shutter speed possible.
 
Thanks Andy and Ian, will try and put into practice your tips, and maybe even buy a 20x eye piece as i always thought the 35x was a bit extreme......
 
Hello Kingfisher, Just signed up to this forum and this is my first reply. The 35x eyepiece does seem extreme - I tried a 20x with my Opticron HR66A, and even this is a bit too much. I use a JVC
GR DVL-20 camcorder, also a Fuji S304 still cam. and have recently bought a newly introduced Opticron 40929 Digital eyepiece. First trials seem very encouraging, but I am awaiting fabrication of a self- designed simple support bracket for the Fuji (just a 3mm thick mild steel strip, bent at 45 degrees to follow angle of 'scope with slotted holes for adjustment - very rigid) - I will keep you posted with the results. The 40929 is 79GBP direct from Opticron and will give 12.5x used with your Imagic 80. Hope this helps.
Roger S
 
Have you considered using the 23xHDF eyepiece (40810) or even Opticrons new digiscoping eyepiece.Both these eyepieces should allow you to zoom back a bit further & get a wider aperture(faster shutter speed).Hopes this helps.
 
Hello again Kingfisher, This subject seems to have become complicated since the introduction of the 'All new & expanded Digiscoping forums'
I have continued this theme (re. eye-pieces) combined with Adaptors to appear in 2 forums/threads, namely 'Digiscoping Adapters>Bracket for Cameras without filter thread or are heavy' and 'Spotting Scopes and Eye Pieces>Opticron Digi-eyepieces'.
If you refer to my postings there, you will see my continuing comments and details of the subject.
Life is never easy, but it sure does get interesting and I hope not too boring!
 
Kingfisher,
I have to use my reading specs if I use the screen to tell me if I have the focus sharp (I need to use specs for reading but my long sight is above average so my optician tells me). If I just focus the scope and use that as an indication of correct focusing, then I don't need my specs. Thus, if I try to focus using the screen and without my reading specs, my pictures are not as sharp as they could be. Do you use reading specs and if so do you use them when looking at the sceen on the camera?


Eddie
 
Thanks for that. This sounds a good idea and I may investigate this. I don't have a problem with focussing as long as I remember to take my reading specs with me.

Eddie
 
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