Cleaning binoculars. (1 Viewer)

elkcub · Apr 15, 2008

Etc,

The basic kit from Zeiss includes a 1 oz. bottle of lens cleaner, several pre-moistened cloths, and a microfiber cloth. The instructions are reasonably clear, although I don't use the microfiber at all. My preference is to apply and remove the cleaner using 3-4 fresh cotton balls. It's easy enough to do in the field, although a soft lens brush is usually sufficient to remove dust. Before the Zeiss cleaner was available I did the same thing with alcohol. Never had a scratch or cleaning mark. Coatings were never damaged.

Elk

iporali · Apr 15, 2008

etc said:
Isopropyl, Methanol, Acetone and many other solvents will undermine these new coatings and eat away at the base in simple language and delamination or crazing can occur.

Unfortunately this statement is not correct. It comes up quite often, but it is incorrect nevertheless. New AR-coatings tolerate all these solvents, but acetone is not recommended because it may dissolve plastic or rubber materials around the lenses. Methanol is a very good gleaning solution, but very toxic. This is why isopropanol is most commonly recommended - it leaves some drying marks but takes off most of the dirt.

Once again, a DIY general-purpose cleaning solution recipe directly from Leica:

70ml pure isopropyl alcohol (dissolves hyrdophobic "greasy" material)
30ml filtered, distilled water (dissolves eg. salt crystals)
1 drop of ammonia (yes, it is safe and helps to prevent drying marks)

Use it as Leif describes above and you can be sure that no damage occurs to the coatings. :t:

Best regards,

Ilkka

OwenM · Apr 15, 2008

etc said:
I never tried these Zeiss cleaning packages. They must be pretty convenient in the field. Still, I would want to rinse the lense with ample amount of water before using anything else.

They are convenient. Sure beats carrying around a bottle of cleaning solution and cloth.
Neglected to mention that I always have distilled water with me. Ex-girlfriend drank it, and after I got used to it everything else tastes funny, so I go through a gallon or more a day. Have jugs of it at work, home, and in my vehicle. If there is dust or grit visible on the lens, I rinse it with the distilled water, and blot it with a generic lens cleaning cloth(unlimited supply at work) before using the wipes. I try to be extra careful since I really don't know much about caring for lenses, plus my stuff tends to need cleaning very frequently. At home I actually use canned air before all the other stuff.
Half afraid I'm going to wear a hole in some ocular lenses before it's all over with:eek!:

Alexis Powell · Apr 16, 2008

There is nothing wrong with using a "solvent"--in fact, I dare say you should. It's good to dissolve salts and emulsify oils before trying to remove them. Water is a solvent.

I mostly clean lenses using the techniques recommended by Nikon: blow away dust with a bulb, brush away dust with a soft brush, blow away dust again, moisten cotton ball with water/ethanol (or these days, Zeiss's solution since they sent me some free) and soak/wipe lens gently, remove remaining cleaner with fresh cotton ball and with condensed breath or distilled water.

I've been using this simple technique for over 20 years on my camera lenses and binoculars and have not caused any noticeable damage (I have none of the fine scratches that I commonly see on other's optics). There's no real trick to cleaning lenses easily, effectively, and inexpensively as far as I'm concerned.

--AP

etc · Apr 16, 2008

20 years ago binos did not have the exotic hydrophobic or anti-reflective coatings we have today on both binos and glasses. I think the coatings have been around for a while but just recently started to be applied to external lenses. It's a different situation these days.

Alexis Powell · Apr 16, 2008

etc said:
20 years ago binos did not have the exotic hydrophobic or anti-reflective coatings we have today on both binos and glasses. I think the coatings have been around for a while but just recently started to be applied to external lenses. It's a different situation these days.

I'd like to see some documentation for your assertion that the most recent multicoatings and the new hydrophobic coatings are sensitive to cleaning with ammonia and/or alcohol.

--AP

etc · Apr 17, 2008

I take it back. The "hot" coatings on real glass should be considerably more resistant to this kind of thing. I think the problem primarily exists on plastic lenses (as in eyeglasses) that get the dip type of coating which is nowhere near as durable as Magnesium Fluioride treated at 300C on glass lenses.

Leif · Apr 17, 2008

Bubbs said:
They [the pc lot] were responsible for cancelling a Santa and Reindeer visit near me cos the owners would have to issue all the children (who may have stroked the reindeer) with Sani Wipes. The world is going mad.

Blimey, that is unbelievable. Lunacy.

ajie1a · Apr 25, 2008

Some binocularsmanufacturer offered "Claening Kit", like Carl Zeiss, or Swarovski. Things like this can realy help you.

Hier is a photo of user guide from zeiss cleaning kit and a photo of Swarovski claening kit.

Simon S · Apr 29, 2008

I would add at this point that some of the early coatings found on binoculars like Wray, Ross and even Swifts have very soft coatings that can be rubbed off with little effort.
I use Mr Mussel window cleaner as it seems to be less harsh than IPA and does not leave a smear.

Henry B · Apr 29, 2008

Simon S said:
I would add at this point that some of the early coatings found on binoculars like Wray, Ross and even Swifts have very soft coatings that can be rubbed off with little effort.
I use Mr Mussel window cleaner as it seems to be less harsh than IPA and does not leave a smear.

Do you mean Mr Muscle.B

:t:

Simon S · Apr 29, 2008

Henry B said:
Do you mean Mr Muscle.B :t:

Thanks Henry:t:3

Mike Penfold · May 3, 2008

I'm looking for a replacement for Zeiss lens cleaning fluid, which (after careful preparation of the lens surface), leaves smears.

Anyone have direct experience with Residual Oil Remover?

The ABA lists this in their catalogue, Vistek in Toronto sells ROR, and Kinderman's (the Canadian distributor of Swarovski) uses and sells it.

Mike

npos · May 3, 2008

Mike Penfold said:
I'm looking for a replacement for Zeiss lens cleaning fluid, which (after careful preparation of the lens surface), leaves smears.
Mike

The only lens cleaning product I have found that leaves NO residue is Formula MC from The Filter Connection in Connecticut, USA. I got this information from photographers who use this stuff and endorse it. I have seen no evidence that it damages coatings or mounts, but do not apply fluids directly to glass surfaces, put one drop on a microfiber cloth.

I have no financial or sales relationship with this company -- I only purchase and use the product!

Norman P

http://www.2filter.com/prices/products/formulamc.html

etudiant · May 3, 2008

Have used ROR for some time. It works very well, but must be immediately removed with a cotton puff or something similarly non abrasive, otherwise the oil just dries right back onto the lenses.

Mike Penfold · May 5, 2008

Thanks.

FWIW, this is how I clean lenses (about every 3-4 months):
1. blow/brush off inverted lens with Hakuba blower brush;
2. blow off inverted lens (from about a foot away) with Falcon Dust-Off Professional XL;
3. saturate Q-tip cotton swab with lens cleaning fluid, and apply to surface of lens;
4. and soak up/lightly wipe up fluid with Pec-Pad Non-Abrasive Wipes, using one side of
a pad, folded in quarters.

I use a filter on the objective lens of spotting scopes, and a flip-down Op/tech Fast Cap on a medium-sized scope.

Mike

Alexis Powell · May 5, 2008

etudiant said:
Have used ROR for some time. It works very well, but must be immediately removed with a cotton puff or something similarly non abrasive, otherwise the oil just dries right back onto the lenses.

I've used ROR for many years, but I don't use it very frequently because to get optimal results it isn't compatible with my preferred wet cleaning methods. It emulsifies oils, so the dry residue and residual ROR are removed in a final buffing, leaving the lens very very clean. I don't like to rub a dry lens, so I end up removing the ROR with my breath or distilled water which does not produce optimal results. For routine wet cleaning, a generic (or Zeiss) alcohol based fluid is simpler to deal with and leaves few streaks if it is followed by a wipe with distilled water.

--AP

ScoutMan · May 6, 2008

Can household vinegar be used as part of a cleaning solution?

Surveyor · May 6, 2008

ScoutMan said:
Can household vinegar be used as part of a cleaning solution?

Hi;
I have never tried vinegar myself but can not help believe that the acetic acid would be detrimental to coatings. I did find the quote below on an optics site I visit from time to time. I do not agree with a some of the points in this PDF and have no direct knowledge of vinegar, but I would do considerably more research before using it on coated optics.

http://www.optcorp.com/pdf/ASOCleaningGuide.pdf

"NEVER use any cleaner with vinegar on your optics."

Ron

Cleaning binoculars. (1 Viewer)

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